Electronic cutouts?
#23
Administrator
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
Posts: 343,419
Received 19,436 Likes
on
14,048 Posts
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-
'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
Contact forum member Patches - he's run electric cutouts on his car for a long time and can give you some good advice.
#24
Team Owner
Quiet mufflers and cut-outs is a Nasty Good combo and you can be stupid loud when you want too!
Thanks,Matt
Thanks,Matt
#25
I was originally thinking of getting some GHL bullets...but, obviously I can't control the sound on those. From people that have cut outs, do you think it was a better choice to keep the stock Ti catback and use the cut outs? I figure if I get the cut outs, I can use that to control the volume, and if I pick up a set of headers w/ cats and x-pipe it will be perfect.
Also, quick question on install. Can a regular muffler shop install this system or do I need to bring it to a specialty type shop?
Thanks!
Also, quick question on install. Can a regular muffler shop install this system or do I need to bring it to a specialty type shop?
Thanks!
#26
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Memphis Tennessee
Posts: 6,670
Likes: 0
Received 135 Likes
on
84 Posts
I had mine done at a specialty shop, just to be sure they were where I wanted them......including the accuation switch and installed correctly.
If you EVER travel long distances in your car, cutouts are the ONLY way to go.
If you EVER travel long distances in your car, cutouts are the ONLY way to go.
#32
Intermediate
Member Since: May 2008
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#33
Intermediate
Member Since: Feb 2008
Location: new bern nc
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You will want to place the cutouts as close as possible to the headers for the loudest and most open header like sound. I don't know how much room there is under a C5.
We are running QTP's on our 69 RS Camaro and our 64 Chevy truck. QTP also makes low profile oval cutouts. Love the sound with them open, but nice and quite on a road trip.
We are running QTP's on our 69 RS Camaro and our 64 Chevy truck. QTP also makes low profile oval cutouts. Love the sound with them open, but nice and quite on a road trip.
#34
Intermediate
Member Since: May 2008
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#35
#37
Melting Slicks
I went through 3 different kinds and each ironically sort of had in some fashion similar "problems" after awhile. Since QTP is a vendor here does not mean there are not better/comparable products to be had.
The absolute key to not destroying your electric cut outs is to NOT continue to hold the swith after they are fully opened or closed. When they start to get fully closed, let off the switch and quickly just 'bump' the swith to fully close or open.
All these are basically made the same way. There is a 12 volt motor that turns around 4000 RMP that goes into a gearbox with many sets of reduction gears inside. Most all are fairly small and at the final ouput shaft to the cutout drops to around 4 RPM, so that little motor can build up a LOT of torque to the output shaft.
When these cutouts fail, it is usually due to one of two causes. 1.) the gear reduction has destroyed the teeth on some of these small gears inside or 2.) so much torque has been applied when they are fullly open or fully closed that the connection collar between the output shaft and the butterfly shaft as stripped or pulled a setscrew loose.
Some are easy to fix and others, well....hope you have warranty. I can tell you this... If you so much as remove a single screw to investigate what went wrong I know of 2 companies that will not honor the warranty if you mess with it. On my last set I fully diagnosed the problem (fortunately not the gears) and proceeded to make my own fix which has been absolutely bullet proof.
Good Luck on the install - they really do make the car roar to life when you hammer it!
The absolute key to not destroying your electric cut outs is to NOT continue to hold the swith after they are fully opened or closed. When they start to get fully closed, let off the switch and quickly just 'bump' the swith to fully close or open.
All these are basically made the same way. There is a 12 volt motor that turns around 4000 RMP that goes into a gearbox with many sets of reduction gears inside. Most all are fairly small and at the final ouput shaft to the cutout drops to around 4 RPM, so that little motor can build up a LOT of torque to the output shaft.
When these cutouts fail, it is usually due to one of two causes. 1.) the gear reduction has destroyed the teeth on some of these small gears inside or 2.) so much torque has been applied when they are fullly open or fully closed that the connection collar between the output shaft and the butterfly shaft as stripped or pulled a setscrew loose.
Some are easy to fix and others, well....hope you have warranty. I can tell you this... If you so much as remove a single screw to investigate what went wrong I know of 2 companies that will not honor the warranty if you mess with it. On my last set I fully diagnosed the problem (fortunately not the gears) and proceeded to make my own fix which has been absolutely bullet proof.
Good Luck on the install - they really do make the car roar to life when you hammer it!
#38
Drifting
Even easier if you've got a caliper. They're fairly inexpensive at Harbor Freight.
..rickko..
Last edited by rickko; 03-30-2010 at 11:27 AM.
#39
Don't really have a way to get under my car. That's why I was wondering if anybody who has already installed this on a c5 z06 could let me know what size they ordered.