BatWING..Pictures of new MOD
12-16-2009, 12:44 PM
#121
Race Director
-Alex
12-16-2009, 01:00 PM
#122
Pshh if you like it, screw the haters.
Also remember that a lot of times, the same people that are making fun of you for your wing have spent thousands on Ecklers for chrome engine dressups and light covers and all kinds of ridiculous stuff that would look better melted on the surface of the sun.
Also remember that a lot of times, the same people that are making fun of you for your wing have spent thousands on Ecklers for chrome engine dressups and light covers and all kinds of ridiculous stuff that would look better melted on the surface of the sun.
12-16-2009, 01:17 PM
#123
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '08
just checking in as a hater
I thought I wouldn't like it when you posted the first time...now I know I hate it. possibly the worst looking wing I've ever seen on a vette. however, opinions are like a$$holes...everyone has one. if you like it, fill your boots.
I thought I wouldn't like it when you posted the first time...now I know I hate it. possibly the worst looking wing I've ever seen on a vette. however, opinions are like a$$holes...everyone has one. if you like it, fill your boots.
12-16-2009, 09:55 PM
#125
Racer
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Alex,
He does have other mods did you miss them?
Limo Tint, ZO6 Screens, Blacked out Wheels, Depo Lights, Painted Calipers, Looks like rear fender flairs in one picture too
I don't like the spoiler on your car but it looks very well made and expensive. I would love to have it in my room on the wall for art or something. The cobra r somehow pulls off a similar spoiler but just haven't seen a corvette spoiler that I like and that makes a real difference looks wise besides the tigershark rear bumper.
You are a cool guy for working so hard and thinking so hard on your vette, and to take all the crap rude people have put out there without considering your feelings or anything else. I'd still take the spoiler off or at least lower it significantly and put on the new side pieces. A slight lowering of your car would look nice too.If you decide to leave the spoiler as is you'll need to get 600-800hp to make up for it and then people will be quiet
He does have other mods did you miss them?
Limo Tint, ZO6 Screens, Blacked out Wheels, Depo Lights, Painted Calipers, Looks like rear fender flairs in one picture too
I don't like the spoiler on your car but it looks very well made and expensive. I would love to have it in my room on the wall for art or something. The cobra r somehow pulls off a similar spoiler but just haven't seen a corvette spoiler that I like and that makes a real difference looks wise besides the tigershark rear bumper.
You are a cool guy for working so hard and thinking so hard on your vette, and to take all the crap rude people have put out there without considering your feelings or anything else. I'd still take the spoiler off or at least lower it significantly and put on the new side pieces. A slight lowering of your car would look nice too.If you decide to leave the spoiler as is you'll need to get 600-800hp to make up for it and then people will be quiet
Over whelmingly the CF HATES MY FKN wing!!
Goddammit!
Its about 90% hate, 5% Hang In There Its Ok, and 5% Its your car
With Terrible1 being the biggest angry A hole...
and ALEX as the undisbuted "Ive heard enuf already...stop NOW" winner!
SO...
Im working on wing number two..
It will be carbon fiber and very low profile..not more than 2-3 inches total in height at top of wing.. Very Flat and about 57-59 " wide with mounts that are aligned with the airflow..two end caps that are vertical and relatively small.. I may make two versions of endcaps.
The BATWING IS GONE!
Im posting pictures before mounting..
Believe it or not I do value all CF members opinions..
AND I WILL have a wing..
And yes ALEX..I plan on finishing the look with other MODS that will COMPLETE the LOOK! SPlitter, Sides Skirts, Etc
TRy and give me some time to breathe and get it all done!!
LIST OF CURRENT MODS already done..
B&B Bullet Cat-Back Dual-Tip Exhaust
Vararam Ram Air Intake
RotorPro Slotted and Drilled Rotors
Hawk HPS Pro Ceramic Pads
Red Z06 Corvette Calipers
Black Z06 Replica Rims
Depot Projector Lights
Z06 Screens for Intake
B&M Precision Short Throw Shifter
C6 Corvette Shift ****
Pioneer DEH-5900 Aftermarket Radio (W/Ipod&MP3 capabilities)
XM Radio Unit for Pioneer Radio
HUMount LED Corvette Bezel
Kicker 10" Sub
New MTX Amp
Custom Stealth Box
Skip-Shift CAGS Eliminator
Column-Lock Bypass Kit
Custom C5 Logo Black Floormats
FatDaddy FrameSavers
Limo Tint on Rear Window
Jake/Skull Valve Caps
Coming soon..
Corbeau A4s - Black
BreyKrause Harness Bar
5pt Harness - 3" wide - Red
Halo Cherry Rear LED Lights
CF Splitter
CF Skirts
Venturi
Lowering Links
Much to do..
Happy Holidays to all..
BKV
Last edited by supersupereight; 12-16-2009 at 10:02 PM.
12-16-2009, 10:07 PM
#127
Racer
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12-16-2009, 10:38 PM
#129
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St. Jude Donor '08
From a functional standpoint, i think it's awesome.
From an aesthetic standpoint, I think it's awesome.....but just doesn't match the car's lines. I think it would look better slightly
if it were slightly wider, mounted further back and curved instead of angled wing lets, it would be a MUCH better fit aesthetically.
A applaud your ingenuity
From an aesthetic standpoint, I think it's awesome.....but just doesn't match the car's lines. I think it would look better slightly
if it were slightly wider, mounted further back and curved instead of angled wing lets, it would be a MUCH better fit aesthetically.
A applaud your ingenuity
12-16-2009, 10:43 PM
#130
Racer
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From a functional standpoint, i think it's awesome.
From an aesthetic standpoint, I think it's awesome.....but just doesn't match the car's lines. I think it would look better slightly
if it were slightly wider, mounted further back and curved instead of angled wing lets, it would be a MUCH better fit aesthetically.
A applaud your ingenuity
From an aesthetic standpoint, I think it's awesome.....but just doesn't match the car's lines. I think it would look better slightly
if it were slightly wider, mounted further back and curved instead of angled wing lets, it would be a MUCH better fit aesthetically.
A applaud your ingenuity
That means alot coming from one of the most ingenious guys on the forum..
Love your mods and posts!!
Best to you..
BKV
12-17-2009, 12:38 AM
#134
Racer
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I dont have progress pics. To much work and not enough time to snap photos.. I have the benefit of knowing someone who is experienced in forming and creating complex shapes in fiberglass and carbonfiber..
So I had help..
Here is the process as simplified as I could remember it..
Building the wing starts by forming the wing shape using wood/mdf except that only one side of the wing is made. The other side is flat. Make sure that the edge on each side of the wing are exactly like the opposite side so that the two halves of the molded carbon fiber will meet perfectly at the seams when they are joined back to back. Also, avoid making very sharp curves that the carbon fiber cloth will have troubles forming around.
The wing shape needs a flange, which is simply a flat piece of wood that is epoxied to the wing half. Be sure to read and study the user manual for the brand of epoxy being used. Before epoxying the wing half and flange together, coat them with epoxy and sand them smooth until they are shaped perfectly.
After the epoxy has cured, apply five coats of Johnson paste wax to the wing (and flange) so the mold won't stick to it. Then, for the same reason, brush on a coat of PVA mold release and allow it to dry before building the mold.
The mold is built by applying layers of fiberglass to wing shape and flange. Along sharp corners apply a fillet of epoxy thickened with silica filler, because the fiberglass cloth won't bend that sharp. Apply layers of fiberglass, let the epoxy cure, and then add layers of chopped-strand fiberglass mat to stiffen the mold. Make sure the chopped-strand mat used is compatible with epoxy resin. Complete both halves of the wing mold using this procedure.
After allowing the mold/s to cure, carefully pull it off the wing shape/flange. Then prepare the mold with five coats of paste wax and one coat of mold release. To prevent the mold release from forming a puddle in the mold, set the mold vertically on end, until the mold release is dry.
I used a technique of wetting out the lay-up(carbon fiber and epoxy) on a sheet of wax paper on a flat surface. The lay-up I used was twill weave carbon fiber. Carbon fiber also comes in plain weave, although the twill looks nicer and actually forms slightly better around curves, but it doesn't hold up as well as plain weave to the hands pressing it into the mold. Wet out the first layer of carbon fiber, put the next layer on top of it, wet it out, and continue until all layers are wetted out. Then use a squeegee to remove the excess epoxy.
The lay-up is peeled off the wax paper and placed in the mold with the smooth/wax paper side of it facing down. Trim the excess lay-up with scissors so that only around one-half-inch of it is sticking up from the mold. Be sure to press the lay-up into the mold firmly and evenly, and press out all the air bubbles between the mold and lay-up. Use acetone to clean the epoxy off the scissors and squeegee.
Before the epoxy has fully cured, the final trimming of the lay-up in the mold is done with a razor blade held flat against the flange edge. This step must be done when the epoxy has stiffened some and is still slightly sticky. Depending on the type of epoxy used and the room temperature, reaching this curing state can take from one to six hours. Use a single edge, steel backed razor and keep it angled toward the flange during the cut to prevent the lay-up from being pulled off the mold.
Let the epoxy cure at least eighteen hours before popping the wing half off the mold. The wing half could pop out easily by just bending the mold. Wash the wing halves with water to remove the mold release from it. Two wing halves are needed for one wing..
The wing halves won't be perfect. Sometimes the razor drifts downwards and cuts the carbon fiber slightly below the flange. After the wing halves are epoxyed back to back, these small voids in the seam can be filled with thickened epoxy and sanded smooth. Also, occasional spots on the outside surface of the wing will have tiny voids where air was trapped between the lay-up and mold. As you continue building the wing, fill these voids with epoxy and sand smooth.
Slightly sand the seam edges smooth, apply epoxy to the them, and clamp the wing halves together with rubber bands until the epoxy has cured. Before the epoxy begins curing, it is important to make sure the seams are straight and that there is no twist in the wing.
Lightly sand each side of the seams. Then use strips of bias-cut carbon fiber to reinforce the seams. This bias-cut is done diagonally at a 45 degree angle across the weave, and it is stronger because each strand crosses the seam. You may be tempted to use composite tape, but it won't form well around wing edges. Use a brush to apply epoxy to the seams, and then lay the strips on top. Apply additional epoxy to the strips to fully wet them out by dabbing with a brush. When the epoxy has cured, apply two coats of epoxy over the strips to fill in the weave. Sand the edges of the strips to feather them smoothly into the molded wing. Try to avoid sanding into the carbon fiber in the molded wing. Just the epoxy.
Repeat this process for the other molded parts..
Use a level/straight edge to check for any twists in the wing.
Sand the wing smooth with 220 grit sand paper. Then apply a thin coat of epoxy. Sand again with 400 grit sand paper and apply another thin coat of epoxy. To finish apply a coat/s of varnish.
This take years of experience which I do not have..I was guided through this process by someone with many years of firsthand experience. The process is complex only in the many steps required. I would think that a person with enough practice and the right tools, supplies and workshop could achieve good results..
Good Night
BKV
So I had help..
Here is the process as simplified as I could remember it..
Building the wing starts by forming the wing shape using wood/mdf except that only one side of the wing is made. The other side is flat. Make sure that the edge on each side of the wing are exactly like the opposite side so that the two halves of the molded carbon fiber will meet perfectly at the seams when they are joined back to back. Also, avoid making very sharp curves that the carbon fiber cloth will have troubles forming around.
The wing shape needs a flange, which is simply a flat piece of wood that is epoxied to the wing half. Be sure to read and study the user manual for the brand of epoxy being used. Before epoxying the wing half and flange together, coat them with epoxy and sand them smooth until they are shaped perfectly.
After the epoxy has cured, apply five coats of Johnson paste wax to the wing (and flange) so the mold won't stick to it. Then, for the same reason, brush on a coat of PVA mold release and allow it to dry before building the mold.
The mold is built by applying layers of fiberglass to wing shape and flange. Along sharp corners apply a fillet of epoxy thickened with silica filler, because the fiberglass cloth won't bend that sharp. Apply layers of fiberglass, let the epoxy cure, and then add layers of chopped-strand fiberglass mat to stiffen the mold. Make sure the chopped-strand mat used is compatible with epoxy resin. Complete both halves of the wing mold using this procedure.
After allowing the mold/s to cure, carefully pull it off the wing shape/flange. Then prepare the mold with five coats of paste wax and one coat of mold release. To prevent the mold release from forming a puddle in the mold, set the mold vertically on end, until the mold release is dry.
I used a technique of wetting out the lay-up(carbon fiber and epoxy) on a sheet of wax paper on a flat surface. The lay-up I used was twill weave carbon fiber. Carbon fiber also comes in plain weave, although the twill looks nicer and actually forms slightly better around curves, but it doesn't hold up as well as plain weave to the hands pressing it into the mold. Wet out the first layer of carbon fiber, put the next layer on top of it, wet it out, and continue until all layers are wetted out. Then use a squeegee to remove the excess epoxy.
The lay-up is peeled off the wax paper and placed in the mold with the smooth/wax paper side of it facing down. Trim the excess lay-up with scissors so that only around one-half-inch of it is sticking up from the mold. Be sure to press the lay-up into the mold firmly and evenly, and press out all the air bubbles between the mold and lay-up. Use acetone to clean the epoxy off the scissors and squeegee.
Before the epoxy has fully cured, the final trimming of the lay-up in the mold is done with a razor blade held flat against the flange edge. This step must be done when the epoxy has stiffened some and is still slightly sticky. Depending on the type of epoxy used and the room temperature, reaching this curing state can take from one to six hours. Use a single edge, steel backed razor and keep it angled toward the flange during the cut to prevent the lay-up from being pulled off the mold.
Let the epoxy cure at least eighteen hours before popping the wing half off the mold. The wing half could pop out easily by just bending the mold. Wash the wing halves with water to remove the mold release from it. Two wing halves are needed for one wing..
The wing halves won't be perfect. Sometimes the razor drifts downwards and cuts the carbon fiber slightly below the flange. After the wing halves are epoxyed back to back, these small voids in the seam can be filled with thickened epoxy and sanded smooth. Also, occasional spots on the outside surface of the wing will have tiny voids where air was trapped between the lay-up and mold. As you continue building the wing, fill these voids with epoxy and sand smooth.
Slightly sand the seam edges smooth, apply epoxy to the them, and clamp the wing halves together with rubber bands until the epoxy has cured. Before the epoxy begins curing, it is important to make sure the seams are straight and that there is no twist in the wing.
Lightly sand each side of the seams. Then use strips of bias-cut carbon fiber to reinforce the seams. This bias-cut is done diagonally at a 45 degree angle across the weave, and it is stronger because each strand crosses the seam. You may be tempted to use composite tape, but it won't form well around wing edges. Use a brush to apply epoxy to the seams, and then lay the strips on top. Apply additional epoxy to the strips to fully wet them out by dabbing with a brush. When the epoxy has cured, apply two coats of epoxy over the strips to fill in the weave. Sand the edges of the strips to feather them smoothly into the molded wing. Try to avoid sanding into the carbon fiber in the molded wing. Just the epoxy.
Repeat this process for the other molded parts..
Use a level/straight edge to check for any twists in the wing.
Sand the wing smooth with 220 grit sand paper. Then apply a thin coat of epoxy. Sand again with 400 grit sand paper and apply another thin coat of epoxy. To finish apply a coat/s of varnish.
This take years of experience which I do not have..I was guided through this process by someone with many years of firsthand experience. The process is complex only in the many steps required. I would think that a person with enough practice and the right tools, supplies and workshop could achieve good results..
Good Night
BKV
12-17-2009, 02:41 AM
#136
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '09, '13, '15
Jeez Louise super8, I didn't know you built the damn thing! Incredible workmanship and mad skills dude! Plus, you built it with the proper aerodynamic science in mind.....impressive.
And.....don't feel bad about the haters. Long ago, I posted a somewhat crudely modified pic to illustrate a stripe idea I had for my car. 98% hated it and poked fun at me...oh well....then, a couple of weeks ago, some member posted pics of his car with stripes almost identical to my idea.....and most thought his stripe was so f'n cool. Go figure.....
And.....don't feel bad about the haters. Long ago, I posted a somewhat crudely modified pic to illustrate a stripe idea I had for my car. 98% hated it and poked fun at me...oh well....then, a couple of weeks ago, some member posted pics of his car with stripes almost identical to my idea.....and most thought his stripe was so f'n cool. Go figure.....
12-17-2009, 09:05 AM
#138
Racer
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I need to pull it off the car when I have some time and good weather..shes(the c5)is under the covers, in the heated garage resting till spring
I am going to start a new wing in 2010. It will also be carbon fiber, VERY low profile, not nore than 2 -3 inches tall at its top, 57-59" wide and be very flat with mounts that are aligned with airflow. It will have flat winglets that will be smaller and less batwing..
This one will compliment the C5s lines all the way..
When I made Batwing I was afraid it was to tall, but mounted it anyway..Now I have to try and reuse the holes I made or make some repairs to the C5 deck..Oh well
BKV
12-17-2009, 09:18 AM
#139
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St. Jude Donor '08
I am going to start a new wing in 2010. It will also be carbon fiber, VERY low profile, not nore than 2 -3 inches tall at its top, 57-59" wide and be very flat with mounts that are aligned with airflow. It will have flat winglets that will be smaller and less batwing..
This one will compliment the C5s lines all the way..
When I made Batwing I was afraid it was to tall, but mounted it anyway..Now I have to try and reuse the holes I made or make some repairs to the C5 deck..Oh well
BKV
This one will compliment the C5s lines all the way..
When I made Batwing I was afraid it was to tall, but mounted it anyway..Now I have to try and reuse the holes I made or make some repairs to the C5 deck..Oh well
BKV
Idea: you could re-use your existing mounting holes, but have the vertical supports heavily tapered rearward so the wing itself sits over the rear bumper than the hatch. I'll seee if i can sketch up something that illustrates my idea.
12-17-2009, 09:33 AM
#140
Racer
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i hate the "oh it's so unique i dont care about the haters/its all for me/blah blah bs"
i hate jersey haters more though
people from jersey have ***** and conviction
the east coast sets the trends. the northeast. that's how it is and how it will always be.