1" Wheel Adapters for pushing stock rear wheels out further?
#1
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1" Wheel Adapters for pushing stock rear wheels out further?
Iam just trying to get my stock rear wheels to be flush with the body of the car.
II found a link on the forum taking you to this site.
A-DAPT-IT USA.COM
Iam wondering if anybody has ever used these before?
Are these considered "hub centric" as I have read that's the best way to go. I don't want any problems with wheels falling off or wheel studs breaking. I don't notice any lip on them for the wheel to rest upon and thus be centered and keep the load bearing on the hub/wheel bearing...this has me concerned.
I don't track the car by the way. I know that sometimes gets brought up.
I have looked into just getting a new set of C6Z06 Repros but 2 things are holding me back.
1. They weigh more then my stockers (Quite a bit actually about 5-7lbs per wheel)
2. Not sure how much further these would actually stick out to fill the wheel well gap between the wheel and the body. If they are more pushing inward, Iam accomplishing nothing at all.
Thanks
II found a link on the forum taking you to this site.
A-DAPT-IT USA.COM
Iam wondering if anybody has ever used these before?
Are these considered "hub centric" as I have read that's the best way to go. I don't want any problems with wheels falling off or wheel studs breaking. I don't notice any lip on them for the wheel to rest upon and thus be centered and keep the load bearing on the hub/wheel bearing...this has me concerned.
I don't track the car by the way. I know that sometimes gets brought up.
I have looked into just getting a new set of C6Z06 Repros but 2 things are holding me back.
1. They weigh more then my stockers (Quite a bit actually about 5-7lbs per wheel)
2. Not sure how much further these would actually stick out to fill the wheel well gap between the wheel and the body. If they are more pushing inward, Iam accomplishing nothing at all.
Thanks
Last edited by XtremeVette; 09-18-2009 at 08:16 AM.
#2
Race Director
A one inch adapter/spacer is HUGE. Just because you don't track your car doesn't mean they are any safer. Remember, tracks don't have pot holes, big seams in the pavement, etc. It also puts additional leverage on the hub bearings. You may hear different but there's no way in hell I would run a one inch adapter on my car.
Find a set of wheels you like with the proper offset.
Find a set of wheels you like with the proper offset.
#3
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A one inch adapter/spacer is HUGE. Just because you don't track your car doesn't mean they are any safer. Remember, tracks don't have pot holes, big seams in the pavement, etc. It also puts additional leverage on the hub bearings. You may hear different but there's no way in hell I would run a one inch adapter on my car.
Find a set of wheels you like with the proper offset.
Find a set of wheels you like with the proper offset.
#4
Race Director
Offset is determined by variance of the mounting surface of the hub area vs the centerline of the rim. I believe there are vendors that offer the wheels you want in stock C5 offset. Check around here some.
#5
Le Mans Master
Have not used them. They look hub centric, this just means that the "inner hole" is machined to a tight tolerance and seats the wheel on the wheel rotor.
I think 1 inch sounds too thick. You put additional stresses on wheel bearings, etc. Don't forget the adapters weigh something and add to unsprung weight. Wheel spacers and adapters can be dangerous (never good to loose a wheel), I would NOT use them.
I think 1 inch sounds too thick. You put additional stresses on wheel bearings, etc. Don't forget the adapters weigh something and add to unsprung weight. Wheel spacers and adapters can be dangerous (never good to loose a wheel), I would NOT use them.
#6
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hmmmmm ok so now I just need to figure out what the heck size rim (width) would fit that would be flush or just slightly protrude outside the wheel well area. 18" x 10.5"? 11"? 12"? 13"? Anybody have any idea or pictures of theirs?
thanks
thanks
#7
Le Mans Master
The primary issue with wheel spacers/adapters is that a bending moment can be created in the stud during cornering, causing it to fail prematurely, and catastrophically. A normal wheel stud is usually only stressed in tension, and won't see a bending moment unless the nut is loose.
#8
Melting Slicks
If you buy the spacers don't go larger than 1/4" and make sure they are hub centric, otherwise find a wheel with the right offset. I believe a C5 has an offset of 50 front 65 rear but check that first to be sure.
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#10
Le Mans Master
Be aware that wheels with offsets will also put additional stress on bearings, but at least your wheels won't fall off !
Being an engineer, I hate cosmetic changes that not only add no value (functionality), but also add problems (wheel bearings failing sooner).
But it IS YOUR CAR, and "different strokes for different folks".
Being an engineer, I hate cosmetic changes that not only add no value (functionality), but also add problems (wheel bearings failing sooner).
But it IS YOUR CAR, and "different strokes for different folks".
#11
I have used that adapter and same company before. They work and look GREAT! You have to go 1'' if you want your wheel to be flush with the body. Stock c5 rear is 9.5 and zo6 ( flush with body) is 10.5. BUT, one major problem...stock studs are 1 3/8" long!! You have to grind 3/8" off of your studs!!
good luck
good luck
#12
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Ok let me just add one thing...
I have noticed their are 2 different types of spacers out there.
First type: the slide on over the studs type. From all the information I have read, you can't go over 1/4" or your looking for trouble.
Second type: the larger spacer that has the studs built into it. This type slides on over your bolts. You bolt it to your stock bolts. The holes are larger enough to cover up your stock bolts (or as pointed out) you will have to shave that first 3/8" off your studs) (this is the tapered non threaded part).
So with that in the picture. Iam just wondering how bending of the studs would be a factor since your bolting a plate to the stock studs, with hub centric wheel centering, then bolting your wheel to the spacer. So in theory, just extending the area to bolt onto? Am I correct? and would this have any impact on the wheel bearing failing sooner?
Now to go back to offsets. How do you read the dimensions from a wheel when they just read an over-all offset? I am looking for "positive offset" from what I can see from the post above, yet I don't see manufacturer's listing positive and/or negative offsets.
I have noticed their are 2 different types of spacers out there.
First type: the slide on over the studs type. From all the information I have read, you can't go over 1/4" or your looking for trouble.
Second type: the larger spacer that has the studs built into it. This type slides on over your bolts. You bolt it to your stock bolts. The holes are larger enough to cover up your stock bolts (or as pointed out) you will have to shave that first 3/8" off your studs) (this is the tapered non threaded part).
So with that in the picture. Iam just wondering how bending of the studs would be a factor since your bolting a plate to the stock studs, with hub centric wheel centering, then bolting your wheel to the spacer. So in theory, just extending the area to bolt onto? Am I correct? and would this have any impact on the wheel bearing failing sooner?
Now to go back to offsets. How do you read the dimensions from a wheel when they just read an over-all offset? I am looking for "positive offset" from what I can see from the post above, yet I don't see manufacturer's listing positive and/or negative offsets.
#13
Le Mans Master
It will still affect wheel bearings. Think of the wheel spacer as a lever, it moves out where your tire hits the road (where forces are applied) from your bearings.
If ZO6 wheels are even with fenders, why not just these size wheels? There are plenty to choose from and your stock tires will fit.
If ZO6 wheels are even with fenders, why not just these size wheels? There are plenty to choose from and your stock tires will fit.
#16
Melting Slicks
I've read all the post above and no one is addressing the offset, 10.5 and 11" wheels are not offset, you can have an 11" wheel with different offsets. An 11" wheel with the standard 65MM offset will fit one way as opposed to a 11" wheel with a 45MM offset. I went to buy wheels and all they could offer me was a 35MM offset which sat flush to the quauter panel but was very skinny from the rear view, anyway in order to get exactly what you want either talk to someone who really knows what there talking about or study it yourself.
#19
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I'd like to go back to Jeff's original post where he states:
"Iam just trying to get my stock rear wheels to be flush with the body of the car. "
When I had the stock rims on my 04 they were in fact nearly flush with the rear fender. Passenger side rear was inside the fender by a little more than 1/8 inch but drivers side was flush. If the rims are in fact the correct ones from GM and not some repro I cannot understand how they could possibly be inside the fenders by an inch. Further, I looked at the pictures of the car in your Garage (nice!) and although you do not have a picture from directly behind the car the two angular shots appear to have the rear wheels about flush to the fenders. Stock rear rimm specs from GM (non Z06) are 18x9.5 with 65mm negative offset. 65mm is approximately 2.56 inches. Adding a 1" spacer would be the same as having about a 40mm negative offset rim.
My questions is are we talking about the car that is pictured in the Garage or something else? If it is the car pictured then use a level to plumb the edge of the fender to the ground and measure from the face of the level that is touching the fender to the edge of the rim to determine the spacer you need. I can't see you needing anything more than 1/8" spacer, if that, assuming the wheels on the car are the correct factory spec wheels. The specs for the rims are stamped on the inside of the wheel for factory wheels.
What exactly do you mean by "flush to the rear fender"?? How are you determining the need for a 1" spacer?
"Iam just trying to get my stock rear wheels to be flush with the body of the car. "
When I had the stock rims on my 04 they were in fact nearly flush with the rear fender. Passenger side rear was inside the fender by a little more than 1/8 inch but drivers side was flush. If the rims are in fact the correct ones from GM and not some repro I cannot understand how they could possibly be inside the fenders by an inch. Further, I looked at the pictures of the car in your Garage (nice!) and although you do not have a picture from directly behind the car the two angular shots appear to have the rear wheels about flush to the fenders. Stock rear rimm specs from GM (non Z06) are 18x9.5 with 65mm negative offset. 65mm is approximately 2.56 inches. Adding a 1" spacer would be the same as having about a 40mm negative offset rim.
My questions is are we talking about the car that is pictured in the Garage or something else? If it is the car pictured then use a level to plumb the edge of the fender to the ground and measure from the face of the level that is touching the fender to the edge of the rim to determine the spacer you need. I can't see you needing anything more than 1/8" spacer, if that, assuming the wheels on the car are the correct factory spec wheels. The specs for the rims are stamped on the inside of the wheel for factory wheels.
What exactly do you mean by "flush to the rear fender"?? How are you determining the need for a 1" spacer?
Last edited by XtremeVette; 09-18-2009 at 08:06 PM.
#20
Race Director