C6 4 piece fender guard kit installed on my C5
#1
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C6 4 piece fender guard kit installed on my C5
It was a bit difficult at first, but by the 4th wheel opening I mastered it.
I like the subtle look of it...should have come from the factory with these a long time ago.
I like the subtle look of it...should have come from the factory with these a long time ago.
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St Jude Donor '07-'08-'09
Jerry, here's an "Attaboy" coming atcha all the way from Toronto...those came out great Nice work! I really like how subtle the front pieces are. Are those GM pieces
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Looks great - very subtle addition to the car.
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Yes, they are not designed for the C5 fender lines...all trimming is done near the bottom though, so 90% of it mates up perfectly. Also, I did not use the supplied plastic fasteners...instead I used metal screws with washers attached to provide some clamping power. There is a lot of detail I could offer before someone tackles this job...I rate the degree of difficulty as high....you'll need some imagination as well as mechanical skills and a bit of luck when lining up with the adhesive exposed...you get one shot at it once the transfer tape is removed!
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I agree with you....but these are not mudflaps....this is a GM accessory kit extremely popular with the C6 crowd, not to mention the C6 Z06 comes factory with even larger ones in the rear. If you hate having your panels pecked at by road debris, these are a step in the right direction.
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Those look great! If you ever post a how to thread, I'll subscribe.
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17,'19,'22
JDM completed a write up for the ZR1 style. They look close as to installing
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...lled-pics.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...lled-pics.html
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Ok, I've had enough requests to put some energy into more detail. Fortunately, I took some pics on the last wheel opening...a rear.
If you are going to do this mod start on the passenger side....this way you will not have to look at your screwups every time you enter the car.
Here is one of the main hurdles you have to overcome, or simply live with. The tape provided by GM is thin, but the edge will show and look like crap if you aren't successful attaching the guard correctly. Pre-paint it black....use a black sharpie or a paint pen with fine tip to coat the edges.
The fasteners are not suitable for this mod on a C5. Put them in your parts drawer and buy some screws as shown in the pic below from Autozone. You will need a couple on the front, and at least 3-4 on the rear guard...your choice depending on how well your initial attachment goes....the idea is to prevent the guard from loosening during normal driving, car washing, etc. These screws require a much smaller diameter hole, so if you change your mind, or need to try to refit later the damage is far more minimal to your inner painted areas.
When you test fit the guard you will see that it must lay over the existing screws holding the closeout inner fender panels in place. It is not a good idea to cover these for future removal, so you must notch out an opening in the edge of the guard deepest into the wheel well...you'll see this once you hold one in place...this goes for front and rear.
You will also see where the primary trimming must be done near the bottom of the guard. The only way to get it right is to estimate an area to whack out of there a little at a time with continual test fitting until you get it perfect. Some might use a dremel and sneak up on it a little at a time. I prefer to use a box cutter with a new blade...this gives the advantage of a perfect sharp edge which is needed to mate the guard sharply to the fender without a gap. If you use this method do cut away from yourself....this is dangerous because there is a tough ribbed strengthening pattern behind the tape that must be cut away for best fitment.
You will need way more tape than is provided from GM. While at Autozone also pick up a roll of molding tape shown in a pic below. In another pic you will see how I added way more tape to make the guard contact any surface available on the C5. Part of it will contact the painted surface, while the rest will hit the inner fender black panel piece. The goal is to get all the adhesion possible any way you can with a combination of screws and molding tape.
Test fit over and over again until you see the best fit with no gaps...then mark the highest point with a piece of painter's tape. Then attach 4-5 strips of painter's tape across the guard and draw a line through each. Then cut the tape carefully while holding the guard tight againt the fender. This is your "tool" for exact lining up of the guard once you have prepped it with trimming and tape backing layer removal. See the pic for this crucial step.
The fronts and rears, though similar, are each unique in placemnet of the metal screws. Be sure to do the screws after you have taped a guard in place. Push hard against the guard so you can see where to add screws through the inner panel and just one into the painted fender way below and out of sight....this is where my 4-post lift really came in handy....I could get everything at shoulder height and work comfortably, and see what the heck I was doing.
As you work around the vehicle you will get better and better as you go...your last one should be perfection! Best of luck....
Jerry
Oh, one more thing...the fronts do not require wheel removal...just turn the wheels out of the way. The rears do need it for drilling and screwdriving.
If you are going to do this mod start on the passenger side....this way you will not have to look at your screwups every time you enter the car.
Here is one of the main hurdles you have to overcome, or simply live with. The tape provided by GM is thin, but the edge will show and look like crap if you aren't successful attaching the guard correctly. Pre-paint it black....use a black sharpie or a paint pen with fine tip to coat the edges.
The fasteners are not suitable for this mod on a C5. Put them in your parts drawer and buy some screws as shown in the pic below from Autozone. You will need a couple on the front, and at least 3-4 on the rear guard...your choice depending on how well your initial attachment goes....the idea is to prevent the guard from loosening during normal driving, car washing, etc. These screws require a much smaller diameter hole, so if you change your mind, or need to try to refit later the damage is far more minimal to your inner painted areas.
When you test fit the guard you will see that it must lay over the existing screws holding the closeout inner fender panels in place. It is not a good idea to cover these for future removal, so you must notch out an opening in the edge of the guard deepest into the wheel well...you'll see this once you hold one in place...this goes for front and rear.
You will also see where the primary trimming must be done near the bottom of the guard. The only way to get it right is to estimate an area to whack out of there a little at a time with continual test fitting until you get it perfect. Some might use a dremel and sneak up on it a little at a time. I prefer to use a box cutter with a new blade...this gives the advantage of a perfect sharp edge which is needed to mate the guard sharply to the fender without a gap. If you use this method do cut away from yourself....this is dangerous because there is a tough ribbed strengthening pattern behind the tape that must be cut away for best fitment.
You will need way more tape than is provided from GM. While at Autozone also pick up a roll of molding tape shown in a pic below. In another pic you will see how I added way more tape to make the guard contact any surface available on the C5. Part of it will contact the painted surface, while the rest will hit the inner fender black panel piece. The goal is to get all the adhesion possible any way you can with a combination of screws and molding tape.
Test fit over and over again until you see the best fit with no gaps...then mark the highest point with a piece of painter's tape. Then attach 4-5 strips of painter's tape across the guard and draw a line through each. Then cut the tape carefully while holding the guard tight againt the fender. This is your "tool" for exact lining up of the guard once you have prepped it with trimming and tape backing layer removal. See the pic for this crucial step.
The fronts and rears, though similar, are each unique in placemnet of the metal screws. Be sure to do the screws after you have taped a guard in place. Push hard against the guard so you can see where to add screws through the inner panel and just one into the painted fender way below and out of sight....this is where my 4-post lift really came in handy....I could get everything at shoulder height and work comfortably, and see what the heck I was doing.
As you work around the vehicle you will get better and better as you go...your last one should be perfection! Best of luck....
Jerry
Oh, one more thing...the fronts do not require wheel removal...just turn the wheels out of the way. The rears do need it for drilling and screwdriving.
#17
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Clean Look!
Looks good and nice write up,Jerry! Living in Michigan, with all the terrible roads and road construction, the "rock guards", flares, or whatever one would call them will pay dividends, in regards to chips, rash in the paint. Looks to be very tedious, time consuming mod. I'm sure well worth it. Keep up the excellent mods!
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Excellent.....Looks great and dam# sure needed.....Subscribed for winter project.........Thanks