[Z06] Clutch issues-Update
06-11-2009, 09:39 AM
#1
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Clutch issues-Update
I just wanted to post what I have found so far trying to fix my "clutch sticking" issues. Before I replaced everything like clutch, master, slave, bearing, etc., I wanted to bleed the system the correct way using the stock bleeder, since I do not yet have a remote bleeder. I removed the exhaust, headers and all, and then the tunnel plate. I flushed the system and used GM superdot4 brake fluid. I flushed about 20 ounces total through the system, and it was not easy using the stock bleeder while laying on the floor of my garage. I also insulated the lines with thermal sleeves which were about 3/4 inch away from my headers. After a long and annoying process, I finished putting everything back together and took the car for a test drive. There was absolutely no change in the operation/performance of the clutch during high rpm/high load shifts. I wanted to do this the right way to find out what the problem actually is, rather than just throwing money at it until it goes away. NOW, IM READY TO THROW MONEY AT IT!!! Please give me your recommendations on clutch, slave, master. Im at 420rwhp now, and dont ever plan to exceed 480-500. Thanks!
06-11-2009, 10:28 AM
#2
You might be able to get away with a LS7 clutch/PP with a new slave & remote bleeder. You may look at the new Monster clutch packages also. I'm leaning towards a Monster one myself.
06-11-2009, 05:29 PM
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I have run two different C5s on road courses with lots of high rpm shifting for 12 years. Have never had a clutch stick. On the day I sold the 97 which I kept for 6 years the clutch fluid was the fluid that was in the car when delivered from the factory. My 03Z had a pressure plate problem that made a lot of noise so I replaced it with an LS7 clutch in 2005. Haven't touched it since then. Clutch never sticks. I average about 12 track days at Watkins Glen per year with about 60 laps per day with 6 shifts per lap. The car gets very hot during a session so the clutch fluid has a chance to boil. Never had the clutch stick there or any other place.
Bill
Bill
06-11-2009, 06:12 PM
#4
Monster!!!
I just wanted to post what I have found so far trying to fix my "clutch sticking" issues. Before I replaced everything like clutch, master, slave, bearing, etc., I wanted to bleed the system the correct way using the stock bleeder, since I do not yet have a remote bleeder. I removed the exhaust, headers and all, and then the tunnel plate. I flushed the system and used GM superdot4 brake fluid. I flushed about 20 ounces total through the system, and it was not easy using the stock bleeder while laying on the floor of my garage. I also insulated the lines with thermal sleeves which were about 3/4 inch away from my headers. After a long and annoying process, I finished putting everything back together and took the car for a test drive. There was absolutely no change in the operation/performance of the clutch during high rpm/high load shifts. I wanted to do this the right way to find out what the problem actually is, rather than just throwing money at it until it goes away. NOW, IM READY TO THROW MONEY AT IT!!! Please give me your recommendations on clutch, slave, master. Im at 420rwhp now, and dont ever plan to exceed 480-500. Thanks!
Monster clutch for reccomended tq/hp.. Stock hydraulics with a bleeder so you can exchange the fluid freqeuntly.!!!! Pedal sticking, nothing else can push the slave back but the plate.. LS7 not so sure for me... 3 laying in the floor JUNK (maybe abused)
.. Plate falls off on return pressure... thus stuck pedal.. The hydraulic vacuum in the system is not enuff... It needs pressure to push it back.. Contact MIKE @ EASTCOAST PERFORMANCE 1-864-404-1776 for more info!!! Joey
