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Lowering Stock Bolts looking for Advice, Facts, and Experience

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Old 12-04-2008, 11:02 AM
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e6bailey
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Default Lowering Stock Bolts looking for Advice, Facts, and Experience

I did do a search for this and could not find anything on the topic. Not sure why nothing came up, I do remember seeing a thread about this a while back.

My question is can you lower and Non-Z51 C5? I found this article on a google search that say only Z51 C5's could be lowered properly?


http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/hobbi...5_Lowering.htm

I also am looking for some feedback to whether it is worth lowering if you drive the car everyday? I currently scrape the front end at a stock height and was hoping to lower the car and get rail protectors. Would this be a good idea? When I scrape the front end I assume it is the Plastic flap that is spring loaded and it couldn't really hurt the car.


How much work is it to lower the car? I do have a lift so I was figuring it wouldn't be much work or take that long?

Whats it cost to align the car once I have lowered it?

Would this void my extended GM warranty if something did need replaced with the suspension?

Does anyone know if lowering on stock bolts is enough to make the Vette sit to low to drive onto a four post lift?


I guess I am looking for some advice and opinions on if it is worth it and if I should do it?


Last edited by e6bailey; 12-04-2008 at 07:39 PM.
Old 12-04-2008, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by e6bailey
I did do a search for this and could not find anything on the topic. Not sure why nothing came up, I do remember seeing a thread about this a while back.

My question is can you lower and Non-Z51 C5? I found this article on a google search that say only Z51 C5's could be lowered properly?


http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/hobbi...5_Lowering.htm

I also am looking for some feedback to whether it is worth lowering if you drive the car everyday? I currently scrape the front end at a stock height and was hoping to lower the car and get rail protectors. Would this be a good idea? When I scrape the front end I assume it is the Plastic flap that is spring loaded and it couldn't really hurt the car.


How much work is it to lower the car? I do have a lift so I was figuring it wouldn't be much work or take that long?

Whats it cost to align the car once I have lowered it?

I guess I am looking for some advice and opinions on if it is worth it and if I should do it?

Yea the search function has been acting goofy. I love the look of a lowered C5. And yes, you can totally lower a Non-Z51 car. I have mine lowered on stock bolts all the way and it's perfect for my taste. Many on here go waayyy lower I scrape the front quite a bit on steep angles, but you just have to be a little more cautious, and yes as you said, the plastic lip underneath normally takes the brunt..I don't have any damage on my nose.
Lowering the car is pretty easy, I had a friend help me, he had access to a lift and it took all of about 20 minutes..maybe less I don't remember it was a long time ago.

Some people align it after lowering some don't. I have never aligned my car and it drives dead-on center. My tires also are wearing normal, I've had them checked too. cost of Alignment will vary by shop. If you are going to align thoughl, I would be careful which shop you choose , make sure they have done vettes or other sports cars before.

Lower it! You'll like it. You can always raise it back up if you don't like it.
Old 12-04-2008, 01:34 PM
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damilleniumboy
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I lowered mine to the lowest setting on the stock bolts, and I felt the car had the perfect stance. A few weeks ago I took off the front bolts, and a couple of bushing from the rear, but IMHO that is way to damn low. I'm putting them back on, with maybe a bushing cut up front and all the bushings in the back. It's a very easy task, and you don't need a lift to do it.
Old 12-04-2008, 02:32 PM
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If your lift isn't a 4-puck that lifts at the jacking points, you'll have to just jack it up so you can remove the wheels. I recommend using a 6pt socket and spraying lube before trying to turn the bolts. You might also want to put some pressure on the leaf to make turning the bolts easier.
Old 12-04-2008, 03:05 PM
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Mine's lowered on stock bolts all the way and I love the stance but mine's a DD and I scrape at just about everywhere I go but I live in LA and use lots of parking garages. A set of frame saver wheels helps though. Mine also has C6Z06 shocks though so I don't know if that lowers it anymore or not then a stock C5 lowered on bolts.

A shop did mine because I was having the shocks put in at the time. But like others said, it doesn't take long to do and you can always change it if needed.
Old 12-04-2008, 03:11 PM
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e6bailey
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So its just a matter of turning 4 bolts and I am done right?

I Just took advantage of the rail savers being onsale on another thread so I will have those for when its lowered. I have always wanted to do it and couldnt pass up the Rail savers for $40. Seems like a really cheap mod that will have exellent results
Old 12-04-2008, 07:40 PM
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Added Two new questions in Bold....
Old 12-04-2008, 07:46 PM
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you will love the way your car looks when mine was done it just jumped out and all I could say was cool good luck
Old 12-04-2008, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by e6bailey

Would this void my extended GM warranty if something did need replaced with the suspension?

Does anyone know if lowering on stock bolts is enough to make the Vette sit to low to drive onto a four post lift?


About the extended GM warranty, I have no idea on this. I doubt it will though; I don't think they will notice.

It will go onto a 4pos lift. I have had mine on one. Give me a few secs, and I will upload a pic.

Last edited by damilleniumboy; 12-04-2008 at 07:48 PM.
Old 12-04-2008, 07:48 PM
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Here it is up in the air. It was lowered to the max on stock bolts then.

Old 12-04-2008, 07:58 PM
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Removed front bolts, replaced rears with long bolts from Zip. It was even lower than this originally. I had to raise it a bit.


You will not make it over tall speed bumps unless you are extremely careful -- even then it may scrape in teh middle. Some guys cut the front spoiler a bit, me? I just replace it once in awhile as it is necessary for aerodynamic reasons.


I cannot fit my low profile jack under it unless I drive up on wood planks leading to blocks. It must be gradual. You will not get your oil changed at Pro Lube or Jiffy lube. You cant get over the pit.

If you want it aligned, you can only go to a pit without ramps. If you don't mind bending the spoiler to the frame, don't worry about it.


If you have to take it to the shop for suspension/warranty reasons, throw the bolts back in. I doubt they will notice... at first.


This is my second Vette that has been dropped like this and I wouldnt have it any other way.

The alignment cost me $60 bucks. I set it to Z06 specs. It wasn't off by much.


You will scrape everything, all the time.


One other thing to consider is what happens if you need a tow. You will pull from the back and the spoiler will fold like paper. It will survive. I have done it before. The spoilers are tough and they were made to take a beating.


This pic was taken when it was only lowered on stock bolts. I broke a valve spring and shut her down. I have the towing process on video if you want to cry. It was hard to watch.


Last edited by tricep; 12-04-2008 at 08:01 PM.
Old 12-04-2008, 08:13 PM
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e6bailey
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Originally Posted by tricep

Thanks for the response...
Is this picture of it lowered on Stock Bolts or With the fronts removed and back backs replaced?
Old 12-04-2008, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by e6bailey
Thanks for the response...
Is this picture of it lowered on Stock Bolts or With the fronts removed and back backs replaced?



The pic on the flatbed was lowered on stock bolts. The pic in the Synergy shop was lowered on aftermarkets with the fronts removed.
Old 12-04-2008, 09:05 PM
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I'd say get the longer bolts for the rear, and cut the fronts. This way you can go from stock height to slammage on the same hardware. A little work in the beginning, but once they are in on the rear and cut in the front you can adjust to your taste easily (yes, your taste is slammage!)

Here are a few pics of each stage:

Stock height, day I bought it. WARNING: THESE TWO PICS SHOW THE VETTE IN 4x4 MODE, LOOK AWAY!!!):





Lowered on stock bolts:





Slammage (cut fronts and loner bolts in rear)



Old 12-04-2008, 09:24 PM
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I bought the front C6 lowering bolts and a set of longer rear bolts. I've only replaced the front bolts and turned the lower stock bolts down and the car looks pretty good. I have to be a bit more mindful of speed bumps and the angle of driveway entrances but it hasn't scrapped that much. I plan to replace the rear bolts with my longer ones in the spring just to lower the rear a little more to lessen the cars rake and make the spacing between the tires and fenders/quarters equal. I don't think I'd want to lower the car any more than I have but it sure does look a lot better than before when it could be mistaken as a 4x4. The only suspension I've heard that can't be lowered is if you have the magnetic ride option. From what I've seen, these cars already sit lower than the base of Z51 suspension cars.

Old 12-04-2008, 09:32 PM
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i lowered the rear of my non z-51 suspension 98. and i went to lower the front and found the previous owner must of tried to lower the front cause the bolts were way rounded off and i couldn't do anything with them. any suggestions as to how i can lower the front with the damn things rounded off to nothing???
Old 12-04-2008, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bugsas99
i lowered the rear of my non z-51 suspension 98. and i went to lower the front and found the previous owner must of tried to lower the front cause the bolts were way rounded off and i couldn't do anything with them. any suggestions as to how i can lower the front with the damn things rounded off to nothing???
Follow the procedure to cut them, once you have the lower arm detached you can grab the spring from the bottom and twist it off by hand (with a little help from WD40).

Procedure ---> https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=90&TopicID=1

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Old 12-04-2008, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by [IMG
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e64/devnull129/505a/IMG_8457.jpg[/IMG]

Great Info, I would be afraid to cut the front bolts to start with in case I scrape way to much and have to go back. Like I said I feel like I scrap a lot(every time in and out of my drive way, if I take the wrong angle). I think I am going to start with lowering on the stock bolts.

Your car looks amazing, your pictures you have also made up my mind of blacking out my front and rear lights(which I have been debating on for a while).

What type of black outs do you have? I have looked at the acrylic ones and also having them tinted by another forum member(cant remember his name).

Last edited by e6bailey; 12-04-2008 at 09:56 PM.
Old 12-04-2008, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by e6bailey
Great Info, I would be afraid to cut the front bolts to start with in case I scrape way to much and have to go back. Like I said I feel like I scrap a lot(every time in and out of my drive way, if I take the wrong angle). I think I am going to start with lowering on the stock bolts.

Your car looks amazing, your pictures you have also made up my mind of blacking out my front and rear lights(which I have been debating on for a while).

What type of black outs do you have? I have looked at the acrylic ones and also having them tinted by another forum member(cant remember his name).
Hey thanks brother... I have the acrylic blackouts and love them (on the car two years with no issues).

Lowering all of the way without cutting does bring it down quite a bit, and I would certainly give that a shot first too. Just remember that the car will take a week or so to "settle" after you lower it, so don't panic when you take it off the jack and it still looks a little high.

Old 12-04-2008, 10:08 PM
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Like DevNull says, let it settle, like maybe 2 weeks. Then have it alligned, mine was out a bit but nothing earth shaking. It's cheap so get it done. 60-80 bucks.


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