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Long tube vs. short tube headers...

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Old 08-17-2007, 08:18 AM
  #21  
BosqueVette98
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Thanks for all the replies y'all. I'm kind of leaning towards the long tubes...

Now, what about diameter? I see that there are several diameters to choose from. Would I just go for the biggest diameter tube? How is that determined?

Rich
Old 08-17-2007, 09:17 AM
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94legaleagle
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I asked the same question when I first became a member - answer was:

Short tubes =

Long tubes =

I went w/ Long tubes, and I'd recommend long tubes unless smog testing is a HUGE issue

As for size, go w/ 1 3/4 inch tubes UNLESS you plan on going FI, then go w/ 1 7/8 tubes
Old 08-17-2007, 09:22 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 94legaleagle
I asked the same question when I first became a member - answer was:

Short tubes =

Long tubes =

I went w/ Long tubes, and I'd recommend long tubes unless smog testing is a HUGE issue

As for size, go w/ 1 3/4 inch tubes UNLESS you plan on going FI, then go w/ 1 7/8 tubes
The 1 3/4 for no FI setup and 1 7/8 with a Blower when I changed between the two I gained 7 rwhp and 9 rwtq, so it was an improvement, like going from stock exhaust to shorties, but I do like the sound of my AR Headers over the TPIS that was one my car
Old 08-17-2007, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by WetteVette
So I'm assuming what you are saying is that the long tube headers are the way to go, do a better job of "scavaging" the spend gases, and they offer the most performance gain.
You can get some gains from short tube headers, but no nearly as much as with the long tubes.
Old 08-17-2007, 10:13 AM
  #25  
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what do long tubes do to your emissions anyway? I've heard the problem is because they require the cats to be moved backwards and the O2 sensors along with it. is that the only thing the tree huggers are complaining about? if so that's pretty stupid.
Old 08-17-2007, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by BosqueVette98
Can anyone tell me what the difference would be between long tube and short tube headers?
go ahead! do it! ask which intake is best!

Last edited by Z06Electron; 08-17-2007 at 01:42 PM.
Old 08-17-2007, 11:30 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mcgiles
what do long tubes do to your emissions anyway? I've heard the problem is because they require the cats to be moved backwards and the O2 sensors along with it. is that the only thing the tree huggers are complaining about? if so that's pretty stupid.


illegal to move cat location blah blah blah blah blah.........
Old 08-17-2007, 01:29 PM
  #28  
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A lot of good info here thanks
Old 08-17-2007, 02:43 PM
  #29  
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So am I correct in thinking that in California they are "technically" illegal? I was thinking of getting a set of Long Tubes but may have to re-think if this is the case! I've also seen some long tubes with cats, are these still illegal in California?

What with all these stupid car laws and firearms laws I think moving to Arizona would be the best thing

Old 08-17-2007, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by UKXPAT
So am I correct in thinking that in California they are "technically" illegal? I was thinking of getting a set of Long Tubes but may have to re-think if this is the case! I've also seen some long tubes with cats, are these still illegal in California?

What with all these stupid car laws and firearms laws I think moving to Arizona would be the best thing

Long tubes are technically illegal in california period! They will pass the sniffer with cats. Without cats it won't. Either way it fails visual inspection because they change the location of the cats. So find a shop that doesn't do visual.
Old 08-17-2007, 02:50 PM
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Ask whatever manufacturer you're thinking of if their product is CARB approved or look for the CARB attached plate/certification.
If not, it'll be "technically" illegal in most states, including AZ. Anything CA does, AZ eventually follows.
Old 08-17-2007, 02:52 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by UKXPAT
So am I correct in thinking that in California they are "technically" illegal? I was thinking of getting a set of Long Tubes but may have to re-think if this is the case! I've also seen some long tubes with cats, are these still illegal in California?

What with all these stupid car laws and firearms laws I think moving to Arizona would be the best thing

assuming you want to pay near California housing prices for 115 heat, with no beach or skiing. personally I'm looking at Texas, but I'm curious to see what real estate does out here since we are on the brink of something bad. There was an entire STREET out here in Temecula that went into forclosure. and every 5th house on my street is for rent, sale, in forclosure, or bank owned.
Old 08-17-2007, 02:53 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by hotwheels57
Ask whatever manufacturer you're thinking of if their product is CARB approved or look for the CARB attached plate/certification.
If not, it'll be "technically" illegal in most states, including AZ. Anything CA does, AZ eventually follows.
including where californians originally moved when housing started going crazy, which is why housing in Arizona went nuts
Old 08-17-2007, 03:06 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Z06Electron
assuming you want to pay near California housing prices for 115 heat, with no beach or skiing. personally I'm looking at Texas, but I'm curious to see what real estate does out here since we are on the brink of something bad. There was an entire STREET out here in Temecula that went into forclosure. and every 5th house on my street is for rent, sale, in forclosure, or bank owned.
Yeah, it's terrible that everyone jumped on the "I have to own property" bandwagon and got those CRAZY interest only mortgages, thinking that their house was going to double in price over the next 3 years

I have a 2 friends in Texas and each time they call me they are being deluged with RAIN.

I don't think there is a "perfect" place to live. I moved to California from London, UK so I really don't have anything to bitch about .
Old 08-17-2007, 03:17 PM
  #35  
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Here is some header info that has been posted before:


Headers

The LONGER primaries of the LG's & Dynatech tend to LOSE their scavenging effect above 3500 rpms.. They are GREAT for LOW END TORQUE at LOWER RPMS. Perfect for street driving & road racers..

However for DRAG racing, the brands with shorter primaries KOOKS, AR, TPIS, will OUT PERFORM from 4000-7000 rpms, exactly where the power band is @ WOT....

The dyno results may only offer minimal if any gains, but on the drag strip, a .05-.1 quicker ET can be had.

Dyno tests with headers having primary lengths adjustable in three-inch increments show that lengths between 24 and 36 inches have only a minor effect on the power curve of V-8s that you and I can typically afford, although the longer pipes do marginally favor the low end.

PRIMARY PIPE LENGTH
"The overall length of the primary header pipe is governed almost exclusively by the target engine's rpm range, which is dependent upon wave tuning. Typically, a lower engine rpm range likes a longer primary pipe, while a high rpm engine prefers a shorter primary."

The length of the primary pipes also affects torque. Where diameter affects the torque peak relative to rpm, the length affects the shape of the torque curve. Longer primaries provide more torque below the peak and reduce it past the peak. Shorter primaries provide more torque above the peak at the expense of below-peak torque. More torque in the low- to mid-rpm range is important to drivers who want that feeling of seat-of-your-pants performance on the street. Longer primaries also reduce the chance of escaping exhaust's being drawn back up another pipe.

In order to keep the torque curve the same for all eight cylinders, it is important that primary pipes be equal in length. Exactly how equal they have to be is more critical on uncorked race cars than for the vast majority of mild-engined street cars running through mufflers. In most applications, pipe length deviation of 2 to 3 inches on a set of full-length headers is not a problem.

Backpressure

From a certain perspective, you will always have backpressure. The only Zero-Backpressure system out there is in outer space. As long as you are running an engine in atmospheric air, there will be "backpressure" from the static pressure at the end of the tailpipe.

I've always found it odd that people don't give more thought to where their pipes terminate, as some placements are better than others. If you dump the pipe into an area of smooth, hi-speed flow, then Bournoulli tells us that you have lower pressure there, and the exhaust flow will be enhanced because it is essentially being "sucked" out of the pipe.

This is why going to big on the pipe diameter can really kill power, because the exhaust flow has more atmosphere to fight against. Pipe diameter is always a compromise-- the ideal only exists for ONE combination of throttle position, timing, load, IAT, etc etc-- everything else is compromised to some degree.


Source: http://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost.p...80&postcount=4

Pipe Size

For exhaust, pipe size mismatch will show up in the power curve, with oversized pipe losing at low RPM torque and undersized pipe suffering upper RPM hp.

1 3/4” headers for low to mid range tq and hp 1 7/8" & 2” for high end HP or big cube motors

Last edited by AU N EGL; 08-17-2007 at 03:19 PM.
Old 08-17-2007, 03:19 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by UKXPAT
Yeah, it's terrible that everyone jumped on the "I have to own property" bandwagon and got those CRAZY interest only mortgages, thinking that their house was going to double in price over the next 3 years

I have a 2 friends in Texas and each time they call me they are being deluged with RAIN.

I don't think there is a "perfect" place to live. I moved to California from London, UK so I really don't have anything to bitch about .
well it certainly never gets all that cold here
Old 08-17-2007, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by UKXPAT
Yeah, it's terrible that everyone jumped on the "I have to own property" bandwagon and got those CRAZY interest only mortgages, thinking that their house was going to double in price over the next 3 years

I have a 2 friends in Texas and each time they call me they are being deluged with RAIN.

I don't think there is a "perfect" place to live. I moved to California from London, UK so I really don't have anything to bitch about .
that is only part of the problem out here, mortgage firms are laying off/closing, real estate agents/firms aren't selling/ land surveying and construction jobs are laying off/ retail businesses are cutting back because business is down.

All these people are having their homes forclose also. We are at only the very beginning of something very bad to come.

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Old 08-17-2007, 03:23 PM
  #38  
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ok i'm done highjacking sorry :o
Old 08-17-2007, 04:10 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Z06Electron
ok i'm done highjacking sorry :o
me too, sorry guys!
Old 10-26-2014, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Here is some header info that has been posted before:


Headers

The LONGER primaries of the LG's & Dynatech tend to LOSE their scavenging effect above 3500 rpms.. They are GREAT for LOW END TORQUE at LOWER RPMS. Perfect for street driving & road racers..

However for DRAG racing, the brands with shorter primaries KOOKS, AR, TPIS, will OUT PERFORM from 4000-7000 rpms, exactly where the power band is @ WOT....

The dyno results may only offer minimal if any gains, but on the drag strip, a .05-.1 quicker ET can be had.

Dyno tests with headers having primary lengths adjustable in three-inch increments show that lengths between 24 and 36 inches have only a minor effect on the power curve of V-8s that you and I can typically afford, although the longer pipes do marginally favor the low end.

PRIMARY PIPE LENGTH
"The overall length of the primary header pipe is governed almost exclusively by the target engine's rpm range, which is dependent upon wave tuning. Typically, a lower engine rpm range likes a longer primary pipe, while a high rpm engine prefers a shorter primary."

The length of the primary pipes also affects torque. Where diameter affects the torque peak relative to rpm, the length affects the shape of the torque curve. Longer primaries provide more torque below the peak and reduce it past the peak. Shorter primaries provide more torque above the peak at the expense of below-peak torque. More torque in the low- to mid-rpm range is important to drivers who want that feeling of seat-of-your-pants performance on the street. Longer primaries also reduce the chance of escaping exhaust's being drawn back up another pipe.

In order to keep the torque curve the same for all eight cylinders, it is important that primary pipes be equal in length. Exactly how equal they have to be is more critical on uncorked race cars than for the vast majority of mild-engined street cars running through mufflers. In most applications, pipe length deviation of 2 to 3 inches on a set of full-length headers is not a problem.

Backpressure

From a certain perspective, you will always have backpressure. The only Zero-Backpressure system out there is in outer space. As long as you are running an engine in atmospheric air, there will be "backpressure" from the static pressure at the end of the tailpipe.

I've always found it odd that people don't give more thought to where their pipes terminate, as some placements are better than others. If you dump the pipe into an area of smooth, hi-speed flow, then Bournoulli tells us that you have lower pressure there, and the exhaust flow will be enhanced because it is essentially being "sucked" out of the pipe.

This is why going to big on the pipe diameter can really kill power, because the exhaust flow has more atmosphere to fight against. Pipe diameter is always a compromise-- the ideal only exists for ONE combination of throttle position, timing, load, IAT, etc etc-- everything else is compromised to some degree.


Source: http://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost.p...80&postcount=4

Pipe Size

For exhaust, pipe size mismatch will show up in the power curve, with oversized pipe losing at low RPM torque and undersized pipe suffering upper RPM hp.

1 3/4” headers for low to mid range tq and hp 1 7/8" & 2” for high end HP or big cube motors
Why does it seem like that everything said in THIS particular post contradicts EVERYTHING said in the previous posts on this thread.....?

The first few posters said that shortys were good for lower end rpm trq. and hsp. and the long tubes were better (relatively) in the upper ends. THIS post here seems to contradict all that.......

Someone chime in and either straighten THEM out OR ME.


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