[Z06] Halltech Install...Immediate check engine light
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I'm not quite middle aged and I only own one gold chain! San Jose CA
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Halltech Install...Immediate check engine light
I finally got my Halltech Stinger installed tonight. I decided to do the idle relearn and after completing it with no trouble, I started to go for a drive.
I hadn't even gotten all the way out of the driveway when the check engine light came on. I hadn't revved the motor hard or anything, just idling while backing out. I rechecked the connections...the MAF connection is good and all the pieces seem to be connected okay...no leaks as far as I can tell.
Anybody got any ideas what it could be? I knew there was a high likelihood of the light coming on, but I figured it might happen after I had driven for a while. I'm scratching my head on this one.
Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!
BTW before anybody posts the inevitable "why don't you do a search instead of asking questions" routine, I've already done that...that is why I am posting this request for help.
I hadn't even gotten all the way out of the driveway when the check engine light came on. I hadn't revved the motor hard or anything, just idling while backing out. I rechecked the connections...the MAF connection is good and all the pieces seem to be connected okay...no leaks as far as I can tell.
Anybody got any ideas what it could be? I knew there was a high likelihood of the light coming on, but I figured it might happen after I had driven for a while. I'm scratching my head on this one.
Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!
BTW before anybody posts the inevitable "why don't you do a search instead of asking questions" routine, I've already done that...that is why I am posting this request for help.
#2
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Scott04Z
I finally got my Halltech Stinger installed tonight. I decided to do the idle relearn and after completing it with no trouble, I started to go for a drive.
I hadn't even gotten all the way out of the driveway when the check engine light came on. I hadn't revved the motor hard or anything, just idling while backing out. I rechecked the connections...the MAF connection is good and all the pieces seem to be connected okay...no leaks as far as I can tell.
Anybody got any ideas what it could be? I knew there was a high likelihood of the light coming on, but I figured it might happen after I had driven for a while. I'm scratching my head on this one.
Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!
BTW before anybody posts the inevitable "why don't you do a search instead of asking questions" routine, I've already done that...that is why I am posting this request for help.
I hadn't even gotten all the way out of the driveway when the check engine light came on. I hadn't revved the motor hard or anything, just idling while backing out. I rechecked the connections...the MAF connection is good and all the pieces seem to be connected okay...no leaks as far as I can tell.
Anybody got any ideas what it could be? I knew there was a high likelihood of the light coming on, but I figured it might happen after I had driven for a while. I'm scratching my head on this one.
Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!
BTW before anybody posts the inevitable "why don't you do a search instead of asking questions" routine, I've already done that...that is why I am posting this request for help.
I would remove it and carefuly reinstall, Don't insert the MAF into the filter too far. Hopefuly something simple turns up. Try again
goodluck
#3
Race Director
Member Since: Aug 2000
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 10,649
Likes: 0
Received 27 Likes
on
20 Posts
The usual issue is a connection that's not fully seated or clamped tightly enough.
Once you've rechecked for that condition, suggest you clear the codes and then go for a drive that includes some WOT. Then recheck for codes. If codes reappear, clear them, retighten the connections and go for another drive. If there is a significant leak in the air path, you will feel it in engine slugishness. If the engine pull strongly and smoothly, there is no significant air leak.
With all that said, an aftermarket intake (just about any design) will occasionally throw a lean code from a transitory event.
Ranger
Once you've rechecked for that condition, suggest you clear the codes and then go for a drive that includes some WOT. Then recheck for codes. If codes reappear, clear them, retighten the connections and go for another drive. If there is a significant leak in the air path, you will feel it in engine slugishness. If the engine pull strongly and smoothly, there is no significant air leak.
With all that said, an aftermarket intake (just about any design) will occasionally throw a lean code from a transitory event.
Ranger
Last edited by Ranger; 09-09-2005 at 07:29 AM.
#4
Instructor
Member Since: Jul 2001
Location: Severna Park MD
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08
It's almost guaranteed on an 04Z with a Halltech stinger, you will get the check engine light and codes 0171 and 0174. If all your connections are tight, you're either going to have to get the car tuned, install a screened MAF, or you could try the cold air mod which apparently cures the problem. Don't know why 04Zs have a problem, but yours, mine and a lot of other people have had the same problem. By the way, I installed a screened MAF from an 01 Z which cured the problem.
Jim M
Jim M
#6
Le Mans Master
Check for leaks. If none are found you will either have to get the car tuned or go back to the stock box.
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I'm not quite middle aged and I only own one gold chain! San Jose CA
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the replies...I really appreciate the suggestions! I took it for a 45 minute run last night and it ran like a scalded dog! I was out on a deserted road and at a 4 way stop decided to get on it...the thing roasted the tires effortlessly...probably the best burnout I've ever done in the car!
The SOTP meter feels as though there is some improvement, but this is highly subjective, of course. At least I can be sure that the PCM is not pulling power at this point.
I am going to pull the unit out and recheck everything later today. Is it possible to push the filter too far up into the MAF? I noticed a statement on the instructions from Halltech stating not to push the filter up in the MAF too far.
Thanks again!
The SOTP meter feels as though there is some improvement, but this is highly subjective, of course. At least I can be sure that the PCM is not pulling power at this point.
I am going to pull the unit out and recheck everything later today. Is it possible to push the filter too far up into the MAF? I noticed a statement on the instructions from Halltech stating not to push the filter up in the MAF too far.
Thanks again!
#9
Le Mans Master
I seriously doubt you could feel a SOTP improvement from a really minor mod like this, especially if your tune is off. Personally I could never detect a difference in airboxes from the seat. Bigger burnouts are not a result of the airbox swap.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I'm not quite middle aged and I only own one gold chain! San Jose CA
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by rbartick
I seriously doubt you could feel a SOTP improvement from a really minor mod like this, especially if your tune is off. Personally I could never detect a difference in airboxes from the seat. Bigger burnouts are not a result of the airbox swap.
I didn't say that bigger burnouts were a result of the airbox swap, I was simply trying to say that it seemed to do so with less effort. I also said that I realize that the SOTP meter is highly subjective. I was simply trying to provide some personal feedback on the mod.
Air intake mods can have substantial results on certain cars and on others make little difference at all. My car seemed to have more "snap" from initial take off and in 3rd and 4th gear acceleration. I did some runs before the mod to get a baseline and just give myself a benchmark.
I am not claiming massive hp increases or anything ridiculous like that, but I did perceive some improvement, which I found surprising given the check engine light...I wasn't necessarily expecting any improvement.
The car just seems to be more responsive.
#11
Pro
Member Since: May 2003
Location: Cave Creek Arizona
Posts: 690
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have read the '04 Z06 has been set up much "leaner" than the previous Z's. What this means is that when you increase the air flow the engine will throw codes. The soutions are: put the stock air box back on or have the engine tuned to accept the increased air flow.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#12
Le Mans Master
You are experiencing the placebo effect especially if you are throwing (or are close to throwing) tuning based check engine lights.
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I'm not quite middle aged and I only own one gold chain! San Jose CA
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by rbartick
You are experiencing the placebo effect especially if you are throwing (or are close to throwing) tuning based check engine lights.
Whatever...
#14
Le Mans Master
Think about it this way. Just replacing an airbox on an otherwise stock 02+ Z06 is realistically worth anyway from 1% to 2% more power after your trims move around. You think that you can detect that from the seat? A drop in ambient temps will have a bigger effect on power. A tune might give you another 2 or 3 %.
Like you said, whatever...
Like you said, whatever...
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I'm not quite middle aged and I only own one gold chain! San Jose CA
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by rbartick
Think about it this way. Just replacing an airbox on an otherwise stock 02+ Z06 is realistically worth anyway from 1% to 2% more power after your trims move around. You think that you can detect that from the seat? A drop in ambient temps will have a bigger effect on power. A tune might give you another 2 or 3 %.
Like you said, whatever...
Like you said, whatever...
Sorry man...I am not looking to get into a pissing contest with you...I just don't understand why it seems to be so important for you to doubt my claims. You know nothing about me, my ability with a car, my mechanical experience or my ability to sense a change in the behavior of my car, yet you expertly claim a placebo effect. What if it is...why does that matter to you?
I am not making any wild claims...just stating that the car seems to be more responsive...I don't know how else to describe it.
To make you happy I could say..."Forgive me guys, I was just bragging...I lost my head, what could I possibly have been thinking...I made it all up just to impress you"!
Instead I chose to provide my gut level honest impression on my experience. If that irritates you, I'm sorry. If you doubt my claims, you have every right to do so. If you have some helpful info that can be of use in my particular situtation as I originally requested, then please offer it. Otherwise...what is the purpose of continuing to post?
I need some constructive input, not someone hijacking my thread to prove that they are right and I am wrong. If I thought I had all the answers I would not have asked for help.
You have made your point...please move on.
#16
Le Mans Master
I need some constructive input, not someone hijacking my thread
#18
Melting Slicks
Hey Scott
That guy Dave that came up with the bottom air scoop idea for the Halltech Stinger gained 14 HP after his install, he had it on the dyno before and after install and swears by it.
I'm not sure if its still up, but If you go the Halltech site and look under tech tips and then look under Daves Cold Air Modifications he has a how to do with pics, I think I may have saved this artical so if its gone from the Halltech tech tips e-mail me and i will try and send it to you.
I don't know how much more HP I have gained after the stinger install but my Z seemed to run better, I'm waiting to install by LGLT's before I get it dyno tuned.
BTY, air scoop Dave is on the forum site quite abit so you may want to page him
That guy Dave that came up with the bottom air scoop idea for the Halltech Stinger gained 14 HP after his install, he had it on the dyno before and after install and swears by it.
I'm not sure if its still up, but If you go the Halltech site and look under tech tips and then look under Daves Cold Air Modifications he has a how to do with pics, I think I may have saved this artical so if its gone from the Halltech tech tips e-mail me and i will try and send it to you.
I don't know how much more HP I have gained after the stinger install but my Z seemed to run better, I'm waiting to install by LGLT's before I get it dyno tuned.
BTY, air scoop Dave is on the forum site quite abit so you may want to page him
#19
Safety Car
Member Since: Nov 2003
Location: San Jose CA
Posts: 4,108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jay'szo6
I had the same problem with my Z. I did the cold air mod a few days ago, and so far my engine light hasn't come back on. If you need the link i can post it.
http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/corvette_c5_corner.htm
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I'm not quite middle aged and I only own one gold chain! San Jose CA
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jay'szo6
Before I do that I am going to try one more time checking the connections and clearing the codes...we'll see what happens!