glerma

I am looking to upgrade from my 1995 6-speed to a C5.

Obviously newer is better but are there any years to avoid?

Were there any notable improvements during the C5 run?

What years did these improvement occur?

Thanks!!

Chicago

For year-by-year improvements, click on the sticky at the top of the forum: "Weights,measurements,ratios" etc... Lots of great info there. I have a '98 that was built in 1997, and have no real problems to speak of.

dunbindun(tov)

See http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...9&forum_id=103

DBD
02 Triple Black

pewterwest99

'99 added Heads up display(HUD) and Fixed roof Coupe (FRC)
'00 added 5 hp ( I think) and removed passenger keyhole
'03 added New Magnetic ride and upgraded from F-45 to F-55


Good luck I bought a '99 Pewter Coupe Automatic with 30k on the clock and could not be happier.

ORANGEBROTHERS

2002 and up is best.

Floridasky

JoshVette

Most notable improvements in that year and greater.

istsme98

Ron Dittmer

Actually the year of the most refinement was 2001, not 2002

In 2001.....
- thinner spoked wheels compared to most 2000s
- better tire sensors
- more sound deadening
- less wind noise
- smoother looking convertible top
- passenger air bag shut-off switch (actually introduced mid 2000)
- auto dimming mirrors standard
- 5-HP and 10-Torque more

2002
- Convertable rear most gasket made better to eliminate paint-rub
My 2001 got that ASAP, cost is $100

2003
- Ride select went from 3 position to 2 position
Newer one is much better

Based on Press releases I've read. I read in there, the 2001 automatic with performance axle ratio is a bit faster than previous years with stick shift.

Minor things year to year. Best years are 03s and 04s. Nothing mechanical changed between the two.

Again, press release data.

Ron

RonJ

I think Ron D. is right.

Ron ...

1stC5weiss

I bought a 2000 Vert A4, because it was in my price range, only had 5500 miles on her....it runs great, I've had no problems so far....and with all the Mods, she will be better than new before too long. She already has new suspension, tires, exhaust, air intake, plugs, plug wires, and a bunch of chrome enhancement in engine compartment....NEXT the NEW Headers and Hi flow cats.....he haw....

GrayC5

Good luck finding the right new ride!

ebubman

we went from a c4 to a c5; in some ways quite similar however in many if not most other ways the c5 is an incredible improvement. newer & fewer miles is the way to go. good luck. bub

Vetteman Jack

2001 had some oil consumption problems in some of the cars, mainly the 6 speeds. All the years seem to have the column lock and rear differential seal issues. My advice is buy the newest and lowest mileage car you can and check it out carefully before signing the papers. The C5 is a great car.

ORANGEBROTHERS

byte_me

I have a Torch Red 97 Coupe- came off a 94 Vert...both were automatic...both with the perf axel ratio 3:07 in the C4, 3:15 in the C5...plus I now have the Z51 suspension in the C5...a lot of people down the 97 (being the first C5, kinda like they did on the 84) but my baby runs like a champ! no problems what so ever! and I avoided the newer problems like the rear diff leak issue, oil consumption issue etc...you will find that some have the "rocking seat" bug...and the colum lock issue that seems to be ubiquitous to them all...

As always, newer and less milage is best...just so happens the 97 fit my scope in these two + the price was AWESOME! the C5 is a WAY more refined Vette then the C4 was...you will not regret the move...believe me!

one ride and feel the balance of the rear mounter tranny as the car glides around turns!!! a thing of beauty!

GR8-LIFE

dont forget tranny leaks and the fuel gage problem, which is happening even in the C6's!!!

So watch out for:


1. Rear Diff Leaks
2. Tranny Leaks
3. Column Lock
4. Fuel Gage/Fuel sending unit defects

JOE1998

I went from a 91 C4 to a 98 C5, I've owned it for a year and couldn't be happier. I picked a car that was within my price range and had the lowest mileage. A paid a few hundred more than the average 98, but the car only had 15K miles on it....

I agree with some of the others get the newest you can afford and goo luck.

Stock Man

Here's some stuff.
All of this information is variously collected from the Corvette Forum message board, so do not take it as absolute gospel. However, it should be somewhat close. Sources: 1,
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1997

Completely new, redesigned Corvette. Base (FE1) and Z51 (FE3) suspension packages.
All Z51 cars include: Power Steering Cooler, xx, xx, ??
97-00 C5 LS1's produce 345 HP @ 5600 RPM and 350 Ft Lbs of torque @ 4400 RPM.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1998

Convertible becomes available
Active Handling becomes available late in year
The two slots of a 1998 (and possibly late 1997s) curve toward the rear at the bottom. (versus straight down)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1999

26# injectors substituted for 28#
Fuel pump revised to reduce noise
FRC "Fixed Roof Coupe" aka the hardtop, becomes available. All FRC's are MN6 (6-speed) cars with the Z51 suspension package, and are about 60lbs lighter than coupes.
HUD introduced
only one line in driver's side fuel rail cover (no fuel return line?)
Power telescoping wheel becomes an option
? Steering hardware changed to combat wandering
door sill trim plates added

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2000

Millennium Yellow available
? "Thin Spoke" versus "wagon wheel" design wheels become standard.
Pup cats added to CA models for LEV emissions requirements (5hp loss relative to 97-99)
Steel swaybar endlinks instead of plastic on Z51 equipped cars
Z51 swaybar diameters grow (25.4/21.7 to 28.6/21.7 to 28.6/23.6 (note: new rear same as Z06)
No keyhole on passenger side doorhandle
Passenger airbag 'off' switch added to console (light by TC/AH button)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2001

return to 28# injectors for all models.
Second Generation Active Handling
Nassau Blue discontinued
Alternator 'clutch' pulley added on A4 cars
New soundproofing + foam in all cars
Smaller keyfob
electrochromic dimming rearview and driver's mirrors
lighter AGM battery
Thickness + Material in vert change
Chrome exhaust tips for coupe + vert
85MM MAF with integral temp sensor (versus 74mm with separate plug for IAT)
LS1 cam profile changed to: .500/0.500, 198/208 on 115.5LSA (From: 0.472/0.479, 202/210 on 117)
All Corvettes now have the LS6 intake manifold
All Corvettes now have the LS6 engine block (windage passages in block), which includes a beefier oil pump.
LS1 changes result in new output of 350 HP @ 5200 RPM and 375 Ft Lbs of torque @ 4400 RPM (MN6)
Hardtop/FRC discontinued
Pup cats added to all models
Stronger synchros in all transmissions
Exhaust manifolds revised (5hp regained) - thin wall cast replacing SS manifolds
metal valvestem caps (late year)
Torque Tube changed from metal-matrix composite to aluminum alloy 6061, increased in dia from 55 to 63 mm.
Driveshaft couplings have also been upgraded on manual-equipped models for additional strength and durability
Introduction of the Z06, which has as differences:
hardtop body style
rear brake ducting
screened inlets on front fascia, without foglights
F1 supercar tires 265-17 front, 295-18 rear, on 17x9.5 and 18x10.5 (one inch wider, respectively
new LS6 top-end with new style head design (10.5:1 compression, 64cc chamber), LS6 cam (0.525/0.525, 204/211 on 116) - 385hp
M12 transmission with shorter gearing (1-2-3 analagous to MN6 with 3.90 rear diff
Titanium exhaust system
lightweight windshield
New, stronger clutch with redesigned master + slave cylinder
Stronger rear differential (shotpeened ring gear)
Red brake calipers (otherwise identical)
Trans overtemp warning light on DIC
6500 redline gauges with special checkering + Z06 font
redesigned PCV system to help combat oil burning
Red LS6 Fuel Rail Covers (FRC's)
FE4 Z06 suspension - uprated springs, bars (30mm/23.6mm), shocks (note front spring and rear bar same as Z51)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2002

Z06 Changes:
Z06 LS6 cam changed to: 0.551/0.547, 204/218 on 117.5
Less restrictive intake airbox lid
Descreened MAF
Removal of pup-cats (total with changes = 405hp)
Z06 shocks revised with less rebound for better launching
Z06 brake pads revised for better stopping (generate more dust)
Lighter, sodium filled valves w/ stronger valvesprings
higher tension rings installed to prevent oil burning problems
slight piston redesign *
clutch strength upgraded.
HUD available on Z06 (not avail '01 model year)
Wheel supplier changed to Speedline, moved from forged to cast. Weight nearly identical
Electron Blue color offered
Steel endlinks changed to aluminum
Aluminum automatic transmission cooler case (all models)
AM/FM stereo with in-dash CD player now standard on Coupe and Convertible
AM/FM/Cassette only available with 12-disc CD changer on Coupe and Convertible

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2003

Late model-year new fuel system design from C6's
2003 anniversary edition with Anniversary paint and decal option.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2004

Z06 shocks further refined. Accompanying upper front control arm bushing, and rear swaybar bushing changes.
2004 Commemorative Editions. CE Z06 comes with carbon fibre hood and has decal package.

Stock Man

Then there's all this stuff. Good luck with the search.



Used C5 Buyer's Checklist

Check for the rocking seat, leaky rear end, headlight motors, and if it is a 6-speed get the column lock bypass kit if it is not installed already. After that, this should get you started

Documentation available? Window Sticker Build Sheet
Are maintenance records available?
Who maintained the car and where
Are maintenance or upgrade receipts available?
How many previous owners have there been?
Can the former owners be contacted?

Is it currently registered?
Does it have a current inspection sticker?
Will it pass state inspection?
Are there any modifications?
If equipped with standard transmission, has the clutch ever been replaced? If so, what mileage?
Has the car ever been in an accident or had bodywork done?
Has the car been kept garaged?
What have been the average driving conditions? (Sun only, rain, snow?)
Does the car need anything now?

Body Condition
1. Does the car sit level?
2. Check body panels for uniformity.
3. Check for body damage. Look at: Wheel wells, floor pan, rear hatch front and rear valance, fenders, quarter panels, uniform body molding. Check for paint over-spray in: headlights, gas door, door jams, fender skirts, engine compartment?. Is there evidence of body damage?
4. Is the paint oxidized
5. Has the car ever been repainted?
6. If so, why, by whom, and how long ago?
7. Does sides of the car appear aligned?
8. Are there any waves or stress cracks in the fiberglass?
9. Are there any dings or stone chips in the paint?
10. Are there any cracks or chips in the windshield or side and rear glass?
11. Do the doors open and close normally?
12. Do the doors and trunk lock and unlock correctly with the key?
13. Do the doors and trunk (if applicable) lock/unlock correctly with remote key FOB
14. Does the rear hatch glass open properly? From inside?
15. Do the struts hold the rear hatch?
16. Does the hood release work?
17. Does the color match the trim tag color code?
18. Are there missing badges, or moldings?

Chassis & Suspension
1. Are the tires in good condition?
2. Is tire wear uniform.
3. Are the wheels stock?
4. Are the wheels in good condition?
5. Are the brake rotors in good condition? (check for cracks or scarring)
6. Are there any wet spots under the car?
7. Are the rubber axle boots in good condition?
8. Inspect the tie rod ends and ball joints.
9. Inspect the shocks. Dry Wet If the shocks appear to be wet, they may be leaking and in need of repair.
10. Is the exhaust in good condition?

Interior Condition
1. Are all door, hatch, and top seals in good condition?
2. (If applicable) Is the ratchet wrench for the targa top there?
3. Are the seats clean? Torn or cracked? Worn?
4. xxxxx
5. Is the carpet clean? Worn?
6. Can you adjust the mirrors?
7. Does the interior light work? Does it work with the doors?
8. Is the dash in good condition?
9. Is the center console in good condition?
10. Does the glove compartment door work properly?
11. Do the windshield wipers function properly?
12. Does the overall interior condition match the mileage?
13. If equipped, does the tilt wheel work properly?
14. If equipped does the alarm work?

Engine Evaluation
1. Is the oil clean? Dark or black colored oil indicates a change is necessary and may be indicative of past maintenance trends.
2. When was the last oil change? ______________ Overdue?
3. Check for a leaking oil pan gasket.
4. Check for a leaking front/rear main seal.
5. Check the master cylinder and slave cylinder for leakage.
6. Check all coolant lines for leakage.
7. Check the coolant in the reservoir. A brown frothy mixture in the reservoir usually indicates oil and water mixing in the oil filter/cooler housing.
8. Inspect the fuel lines going to the fuel rail for brittleness or cracking.
9. Inspect the plug wires for brittleness or cracking.
10. Inspect the brake fluid for color. Black colored brake fluid indicates a change is necessary.
11. Is the air filter clean?
12. Is the engine bay clean and neat? All hoses / wiring in correct place?

Engine Operation
1. Does the car start properly?
2. The car should have a steady idle.
3. (If equipped) Check the ECM (computer)? Engine Codes recorded?
4. Is the oil pressure normal?
5. Engine coolant temperature: Normal? 6. Is there valve chatter or excessive engine noise? Yes No
7. Is there excessive engine vibration at idle or revving? (can indicate bad motor mount).
8. With the engine running, listen for leaks at the exhaust manifolds and exhaust.
9. Does the heat work?
10. Does the AC work? Is the compressor quiet?
11. Does the AC / heater blow at each speed?
12. Does the radio work properly (tape and CD if applicable)?
13. If equipped, does the power antenna work?
14. If equipped, do the power windows and door locks work?
15. Does the defroster work properly?
16. Do all ***** / controls function correctly?
17. Do all of the gauges / dashboard lights work properly?

Test Drive Evaluation
1. Does the parking brake work properly?
2. How does the brake pedal feel?
The following 3 questions assume manual transmission:
3. How does the clutch pedal feel? Firm Soft
4. Does the clutch operate in a smooth quiet manner?
5. Does the shifter seem tight?
6. Are there any squeaks / noises (specially over rough roads)?
7. Is the steering smooth and responsive?
8. When going straight is the wheel straight? Does the car drift to one side?
9. Brake with your hands off the wheel does the car stop straight?
10. At highway speeds does the car pull, or shake / shimmy?
11. Does the cruise control work properly?
12. Is there exceptional wind noise?
13. If equipped, does the ABS system function properly?
14. If equipped, does the Traction control system function properly?
15. If equipped, does the Selective Ride Control function properly?

Miscellaneous
1. Is the battery in good condition?
2. Do all lights / signals work correctly? Headlights (high and low beams)?, Brake lights? Parking/Side Marker Lights? Turn Signals?