Changed my oil and oil filter today.
04-10-2005, 07:32 PM
#1
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Changed my oil and oil filter today.
6 quarts of Mobile1 5W30 Synthetic. Just wondering if that is enough, my pressure gauge seems to be a little lower then usual.
I changed to oil filter too, thing is, I don't know what was originally in it (no brand just a yellow filter).
I changed it with a Purolife filter that Pepboys recommended me second to the Fram, which they were out of stock of.
$34 for the oil, and $9 for the filter.
Any changes or suggestions?
I changed to oil filter too, thing is, I don't know what was originally in it (no brand just a yellow filter).
I changed it with a Purolife filter that Pepboys recommended me second to the Fram, which they were out of stock of.
$34 for the oil, and $9 for the filter.
Any changes or suggestions?
04-10-2005, 07:49 PM
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oil fill is 6.5 quarts with an oil filter change, and never change the oil unless you also change the filter. However, one half quart should not show a drop in pressure.
No comment on the filter, since I have never heard of it; I have heard of purolator is this the same. I would never use a purolator, but that is me.
I use only the AC Delco UPF 44, and is cheaper from Ken Fichtner if you purchase a case of six. Other great filters to use are the Mobil 1 and K&N.
PEP boys is evidently high on the price of oil. Check your local Walmart and they usually carry a five quart container for around $19.50, and you can then purchase two extra quarts for $8.00.
Other than that, you did good, and don't worry about the filter...this time. However, I do recommend getting another half-quart in the engine as soon as you can.
No comment on the filter, since I have never heard of it; I have heard of purolator is this the same. I would never use a purolator, but that is me.
I use only the AC Delco UPF 44, and is cheaper from Ken Fichtner if you purchase a case of six. Other great filters to use are the Mobil 1 and K&N.
PEP boys is evidently high on the price of oil. Check your local Walmart and they usually carry a five quart container for around $19.50, and you can then purchase two extra quarts for $8.00.
Other than that, you did good, and don't worry about the filter...this time. However, I do recommend getting another half-quart in the engine as soon as you can.
04-10-2005, 08:02 PM
#6
Safety Car
oil pressure has a lot to do with filer DP (differential pressure), and oil viscosity.
if you want to run Mobil-1, i'd recommend, 0W-40, and a K&N, or new Mobil-1, filter.
i know for a fact, the following:
friends car
same day
same oil
same oil temp
same idle speed
the K&N HP-1007 idled ~9 psi higher than the UPF-44
if you want to run Mobil-1, i'd recommend, 0W-40, and a K&N, or new Mobil-1, filter.
i know for a fact, the following:
friends car
same day
same oil
same oil temp
same idle speed
the K&N HP-1007 idled ~9 psi higher than the UPF-44
04-10-2005, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 66427-450
oil pressure has a lot to do with filer DP (differential pressure), and oil viscosity.
if you want to run Mobil-1, i'd recommend, 0W-40, and a K&N, or new Mobil-1, filter.
i know for a fact, the following:
friends car
same day
same oil
same oil temp
same idle speed
the K&N HP-1007 idled ~9 psi higher than the UPF-44
if you want to run Mobil-1, i'd recommend, 0W-40, and a K&N, or new Mobil-1, filter.
i know for a fact, the following:
friends car
same day
same oil
same oil temp
same idle speed
the K&N HP-1007 idled ~9 psi higher than the UPF-44
Using 0W-40 is not recommended by GM, will void the warranty and if out of warranty, is not good for the engine. 0W-30, would be ok, but anything with 40W in its name is not a good idea.
From the owner's manual:
SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it's going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness.
But, it is your engine...
For OMG, who is young, and just got his first Vette, why not recommend what the engineers at GM recommend, and have recommended for the LS1 since conception?
04-10-2005, 08:14 PM
#8
Team Owner
When I change the oil I use 6.5 qts of Mobil1 (5w-30) and a Mobil1 filter. M-107 (I think). 
04-10-2005, 08:15 PM
#9
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This should help a little...Oil pressure can very due to which oil filter you use because of the flow rate...
I pulled this off of Cross Flags...Credit to JB Hurst for the posting...
Peace
Willfulone
I pulled this off of Cross Flags...Credit to JB Hurst for the posting...
The purpose of an oil filter is simply to filter out foreign particles from the oil that will damage the engine. The primary factors for a filter are the size of particles it will capture and the flow rate it will sustain.
Obviously you want a filter that can maintain acceptable flow, while removing the most amounts of particles. Oil flow is critical for lubricating a performance engine, while particle removing is important for engine longevity.
If you had a pure racecar you would want a filter with the best flow, since you would be replacing the oil every race and engine life is not relevant. For a streetcar engine life is very relevant.
The UPF44 filter is a Gen-3 Synthetic non-woven laminate filter that is actually made by Champion Labs for AC Delco.
The Mobile-1 filter is a Gen-5 Synthetic non-woven laminate filter that is actually made by Champion Labs for Mobile-1.
The AMSOIL SDF filter is a Gen-12 Pressed Cellulose filter that is actually made by Baldwin for AMSOIL.
There is no correlation to generations between Synthetic and Pressed Cellulose filters, only between themselves.
The real comparison of these filters can be easily expressed by their Pore Sizes and Flow Rates. The key is to balance flow vs. filtration. Remember that flow is also relative to overall particle removal. If a filter flows twice as fast, then the oil will travel though the filter twice as often and remove more particles.
Fram TG8= Lg Pore>40 / Smallest Pore>15 / Average Pore>41
Fram TG8= Flow@ 20psi = 4.3 gpm Raw Media / fl-oz/in³/min>2.02
Purolator = Lg Pore>43 / Smallest Pore>10 / Average Pore>42
Purolator = Flow@20psi = 3.8 gpm Raw / fl-oz/in³/min>1.49
---
UPF44 = Largest Pore>45 / Smallest Pore>17 / Average Pore>43
UPF44 = Flow@ 20psi = 3.0 gpm Raw Media / fl-oz/in³/min->1.97
Mobile-1 = Largest Pore>56 / Smallest Pore>16 / Average Pore>52
Mobile-1 = Flow@ 20psi = 5.3 gpm Raw Media / fl-oz/in³/min>2.27
AMSOIL = Largest Pore>52 / Smallest Pore>17 / Average Pore>50
AMSOIL = Flow@ 20psi = 9.5 gpm Raw Media / fl-oz/in³/min->3.58
---
WIX = Largest Pore>65 / Smallest Pore>19 / Average Pore>58
WIX = Flow@ 20psi = 5.9 gpm Raw Media / fl-oz/in³/min->2.50
Fram X2= Largest Pore>61 / Smallest Pore>23 / Average Pore>57
Fram X2= Flow@ 20psi = 8.5 gpm Raw Media / fl-oz/in³/min->4.49
From the above list you can see that the UPF22/Mobile-1/AMSOIL filters are all high-flow “small particle” filters. The WIX/FRAM X2 filters are “large particle” filters. They will leave more particles in our oil, but generally flow faster. Fram TG8/Purolator are low-flow “small particle” filters that will clean the oil well, but restrict oil flow though the engine greatly.
I personally would not put a large particle filter on a modern performance engine like our Z06’s. They do not meet the standards specified by GM. I would also not use a very restrictive filter like the Purolator. For the oil filters that flow well with good filtration, the results are obvious.
The Mobile-1 filter flows at almost twice the rate as the UPF44, while filtering out the same particle sizes. The AMSOIL flows at 3 times the rate, while filtering out the same particle sizes.
This is the difference between OLDER generation filter technology and newer generation filter technology. All the good filters (UPF44/Mobile-1/AMSOIL) will also last significantly longer then the junk filters. In case you don’t change your oil as often as you should.
The UPF44 is a very good filter overall. It is however not the best by any means.
Obviously you want a filter that can maintain acceptable flow, while removing the most amounts of particles. Oil flow is critical for lubricating a performance engine, while particle removing is important for engine longevity.
If you had a pure racecar you would want a filter with the best flow, since you would be replacing the oil every race and engine life is not relevant. For a streetcar engine life is very relevant.
The UPF44 filter is a Gen-3 Synthetic non-woven laminate filter that is actually made by Champion Labs for AC Delco.
The Mobile-1 filter is a Gen-5 Synthetic non-woven laminate filter that is actually made by Champion Labs for Mobile-1.
The AMSOIL SDF filter is a Gen-12 Pressed Cellulose filter that is actually made by Baldwin for AMSOIL.
There is no correlation to generations between Synthetic and Pressed Cellulose filters, only between themselves.
The real comparison of these filters can be easily expressed by their Pore Sizes and Flow Rates. The key is to balance flow vs. filtration. Remember that flow is also relative to overall particle removal. If a filter flows twice as fast, then the oil will travel though the filter twice as often and remove more particles.
Fram TG8= Lg Pore>40 / Smallest Pore>15 / Average Pore>41
Fram TG8= Flow@ 20psi = 4.3 gpm Raw Media / fl-oz/in³/min>2.02
Purolator = Lg Pore>43 / Smallest Pore>10 / Average Pore>42
Purolator = Flow@20psi = 3.8 gpm Raw / fl-oz/in³/min>1.49
---
UPF44 = Largest Pore>45 / Smallest Pore>17 / Average Pore>43
UPF44 = Flow@ 20psi = 3.0 gpm Raw Media / fl-oz/in³/min->1.97
Mobile-1 = Largest Pore>56 / Smallest Pore>16 / Average Pore>52
Mobile-1 = Flow@ 20psi = 5.3 gpm Raw Media / fl-oz/in³/min>2.27
AMSOIL = Largest Pore>52 / Smallest Pore>17 / Average Pore>50
AMSOIL = Flow@ 20psi = 9.5 gpm Raw Media / fl-oz/in³/min->3.58
---
WIX = Largest Pore>65 / Smallest Pore>19 / Average Pore>58
WIX = Flow@ 20psi = 5.9 gpm Raw Media / fl-oz/in³/min->2.50
Fram X2= Largest Pore>61 / Smallest Pore>23 / Average Pore>57
Fram X2= Flow@ 20psi = 8.5 gpm Raw Media / fl-oz/in³/min->4.49
From the above list you can see that the UPF22/Mobile-1/AMSOIL filters are all high-flow “small particle” filters. The WIX/FRAM X2 filters are “large particle” filters. They will leave more particles in our oil, but generally flow faster. Fram TG8/Purolator are low-flow “small particle” filters that will clean the oil well, but restrict oil flow though the engine greatly.
I personally would not put a large particle filter on a modern performance engine like our Z06’s. They do not meet the standards specified by GM. I would also not use a very restrictive filter like the Purolator. For the oil filters that flow well with good filtration, the results are obvious.
The Mobile-1 filter flows at almost twice the rate as the UPF44, while filtering out the same particle sizes. The AMSOIL flows at 3 times the rate, while filtering out the same particle sizes.
This is the difference between OLDER generation filter technology and newer generation filter technology. All the good filters (UPF44/Mobile-1/AMSOIL) will also last significantly longer then the junk filters. In case you don’t change your oil as often as you should.
The UPF44 is a very good filter overall. It is however not the best by any means.
Willfulone
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04-10-2005, 08:18 PM
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Ooops, that's what it is, purolator. It's supposed to be their "high quality' series, whatever.
Can I get the AC Delco filter locally somewhere?
And what are the prices on those things?
66427-450 any reason why you'd reccomend 0w-40?
Thanks for all the help guys.
Thanks a lot willfulone, looks like I'll be going with the Mobile1.
And WhiteC5, thanks for the help!
Can I get the AC Delco filter locally somewhere?
And what are the prices on those things?
66427-450 any reason why you'd reccomend 0w-40?
Thanks for all the help guys.
Thanks a lot willfulone, looks like I'll be going with the Mobile1.
And WhiteC5, thanks for the help!
Last edited by OMG; 04-10-2005 at 08:22 PM.
04-10-2005, 08:23 PM
#11
Safety Car
Originally Posted by WhiteC5Vette
Just had to ask...same mileage, same engine, same oil pump, same wear and tear, same time on the oil and filter, etc.? All these items will affect oil pressure to a small, and sometime a large degree.
Using 0W-40 is not recommended by GM......................
Using 0W-40 is not recommended by GM......................
ahhh, yeah....... same car, same day.... follow?
i'd recommend picking your oil based on your UOA (Used Oil Analysis).... if it show less metal in the oil (i.e. less bearing material, less cylinder wall material, etc.)..... that's what you want.
BTW: i run German Castrol 0-30 (actually closer to 40w)....... i've never seen an oil produce better UOA numbers. and i understand the Mobil-1 0-40 does better than their 5-30, or 10-30.
but hey, it's your car, run what you like
go here for more oil performance info (if you're interested)
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php
04-10-2005, 09:00 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by OMG
6 quarts of Mobile1 5W30 Synthetic. Just wondering if that is enough, my pressure gauge seems to be a little lower then usual.
I changed to oil filter too, thing is, I don't know what was originally in it (no brand just a yellow filter).
I changed it with a Purolife filter that Pepboys recommended me second to the Fram, which they were out of stock of.
$34 for the oil, and $9 for the filter.
Any changes or suggestions?
I changed to oil filter too, thing is, I don't know what was originally in it (no brand just a yellow filter).
I changed it with a Purolife filter that Pepboys recommended me second to the Fram, which they were out of stock of.
$34 for the oil, and $9 for the filter.
Any changes or suggestions?
04-10-2005, 09:35 PM
#13
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I didn't have the cash to dish out for the low profile jack, so I used my dad's regular 2 ton jack and jacked it up on the side a little behind the front tire, I got it up, crawled under I too had to use the channel lock to get out the oil filter, I also had to use a monkey wrench to unscrew the drain plug. It looked like they lost the seal ring or something so they torqued it tight as possible, my dad made one with some sealant paper.
After I got out the drain plug, I lowered the car again, and let the Car's natural angle drain out the oil. After about thirty minutes, I put everything back together and dumped the new oil in. Ran for a couple minutes, then went for a test drive.
After I got out the drain plug, I lowered the car again, and let the Car's natural angle drain out the oil. After about thirty minutes, I put everything back together and dumped the new oil in. Ran for a couple minutes, then went for a test drive.
04-10-2005, 10:44 PM
#14
Drifting
Originally Posted by WhiteC5Vette
..., and never change the oil unless you also change the filter. ...
I use to do that all the time back in the '70s when Mobil 1 first came out. They touted it to be easily effective for 25,000 miles. Then they'd show the hone cross-hatch marks on cylinders where they'd run one fill of Mobil 1 a simulated 100,000 miles! YOu could still see the cross hatches. Very effective ad I might say.
So, I figured, why change the oil if it'll last 25,000 miles, or even 100,000! Just change the filter.
So that's what I did on my '73 bug when I bought it new. I'd change the filter every 3k miles but only changed the oil every 6k miles. Then in '83 I bought a VW GTI. Did the same thing with it and drove it 125,000 great miles. The cylinder compression never wavered during the 10 years I drove it.
Agreed, its kind of unorthodox method but it seemed to work fine!
Remember, the filter only filters out particles so change it often but the oil has its own lifetime. All you need to know is, what it is and synthetics way out last regular dino.
..rickko..
Last edited by rickko; 04-10-2005 at 10:47 PM.
04-11-2005, 05:59 AM
#15
Team Owner
Just an interesting observation from this past weekend... I put my 2001 coupe back on the road after it's winter hiatus. Naturally, I changed the oil and filter.
I got the car up to change the oil, removed the drain plug, raised the rear end a little to help the drain, and then got called away for something else that had popped up. Wound up letting the car drain overnight.
I don't have a big enough garage for all my stuff at my house, so the 'Vette is at my mom's place during the winter. To simplify things, I had grabbed a six-pack of Mobil 1 as I left my house, figuring I'd add the additional .5 quart when I got the car home. I put in the 6 quarts of oil, drive it home and park it. Come out a little while later to go for a ride, and the "low oil level" warning message flashes. I couldn't believe that a pint low would bring it on, however the dipstick was fairly low.
Long story short, if you let it drain that long, it appears that ALL of the oil drains, and you need close to 7 quarts to fill the crankcase.
I got the car up to change the oil, removed the drain plug, raised the rear end a little to help the drain, and then got called away for something else that had popped up. Wound up letting the car drain overnight.
I don't have a big enough garage for all my stuff at my house, so the 'Vette is at my mom's place during the winter. To simplify things, I had grabbed a six-pack of Mobil 1 as I left my house, figuring I'd add the additional .5 quart when I got the car home. I put in the 6 quarts of oil, drive it home and park it. Come out a little while later to go for a ride, and the "low oil level" warning message flashes. I couldn't believe that a pint low would bring it on, however the dipstick was fairly low.
Long story short, if you let it drain that long, it appears that ALL of the oil drains, and you need close to 7 quarts to fill the crankcase.
04-11-2005, 07:10 AM
#16
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Fill specifications call for 6.5 quarts - may want to add another half quart. Check the dipstick and see what the oil level is. I run the PF46 filter from AC. Seems to do just fine.
04-11-2005, 07:25 AM
#17
Melting Slicks
I just changed my oil with mobil 1 5 w30 and the mobil 1 filter.
i wound up putting the whole 7 qts in and its a touch over the fill line. dumb question here, but thats not going to affect anything either way, right??
i wound up putting the whole 7 qts in and its a touch over the fill line. dumb question here, but thats not going to affect anything either way, right??
04-11-2005, 08:24 AM
#18
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by WhiteC5Vette
Just had to ask...same mileage, same engine, same oil pump, same wear and tear, same time on the oil and filter, etc.? All these items will affect oil pressure to a small, and sometime a large degree.
Using 0W-40 is not recommended by GM, will void the warranty and if out of warranty, is not good for the engine. 0W-30, would be ok, but anything with 40W in its name is not a good idea.
From the owner's manual:
SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it's going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness.
But, it is your engine...
For OMG, who is young, and just got his first Vette, why not recommend what the engineers at GM recommend, and have recommended for the LS1 since conception?
Using 0W-40 is not recommended by GM, will void the warranty and if out of warranty, is not good for the engine. 0W-30, would be ok, but anything with 40W in its name is not a good idea.
From the owner's manual:
SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it's going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness.
But, it is your engine...
For OMG, who is young, and just got his first Vette, why not recommend what the engineers at GM recommend, and have recommended for the LS1 since conception?
Last edited by Lancer033; 04-11-2005 at 08:55 AM.
04-11-2005, 10:16 AM
#19
Drifting
A "touch" over the fill line should not be a problem. Way-way years ago I put in twice the amount of oil needed ( got distracted by girl friend) and that was not good. Sid.
04-11-2005, 10:29 AM
#20
Safety Car
Originally Posted by DsC5
6.5 quarts is the proper amount.
