Myfirstvette02

Hi guys I'm looking for some guidance. I have a procharger P1-SC-1 supercharger kit with the twin front mount intercoolers. I was shooting for 650 CrankHP. I'm aware I need to upgrade the fuel pump , and I'll be looking for either 60lb or 80lb injectors.

I also have a set of Kooks longtube headers with Xpipe and a Borla type S exhaust.

Lastly, I'll be getting a clutch at some point in the future. Most likely a twin disk McLeod.

That being said I'm looking for which cam will help get me to that number. I've been told that if I change my cam its going to ruin my car no matter what I do. I'm looking for a good boost-friendly cam that's going to help me get to my goal. Also a set of valve springs to go along with it. I plan on driving this car weekly sometimes all weekend long. I want a cam that's not going to make my car obnoxious to drive. Or buck everywhere if it's running cruise control at 1500RPM. Thoughts and ideas are greatly welcome and appreciated. Products that are proven on the car are also appreciated.

Darbs

The blower, headers, 60lb, a fuel pump or bap, Mighty Mouse catch can and pulley for 10psi will get you to 550 wheel. Leave your cam alone.

Dave concrete

04z, stock motor, AR longtubes, Novi 2000 @6psi, BAP, Meth 685 area at crank.
LS6 stock Cam is a great blower Cam and the mess and cost of change out does not warrent 30hp. If in addition I was going to do head work, then maybe, by itself no because simply I'm still have a stock Piston issue and howe much boost I want to send into motor, vs. reliability.
Everyone needs to question their tolerance of building a new motor after they detonate the stock one to achieve their goal.
650hp C5, is fast, fun, and cheap.

Rkreigh

just finished a head cam job on a c5 and it's not trivial. Steering rack, rad, front accessories all come off to even get to the balancer

the blower will work very well with ls1 or ls6 cam and easily get you to that HP goal and maintain great street manners

sure you can upgrade the cam for more power, but with the blower, the juice isn't worth the squeeze.

it's quite a bit of labor $$$ for cam swap on the c5

I was running a p1sc that made an ez 670 at the tire on a big 416 ls3

Myfirstvette02

So I've been reading and I'm using the serpentine belt. If I run that much boost at what point does the belt start slipping?

Rkreigh

the procharger bracket isn't the best using one belt to drive it all except the little ac belt

I experienced lots of belt slip pushing 14 psi with the little 6 rib

a fresh belt I'm sure would do better. I'd recommend you look at the A&A bracket and 8 rib to fix slip issues or get used to fresh belts

the dedicated accessory drive, OD balancer, and 8 rib gives a much more stable setup

Dave concrete

You're right. $3,500-$5,000 Cam Change for 40hp is a lot.
I would boost a stock motor and WHEN it finally goes, build a kick *** 346 with high compression, low boost

Rkreigh

getting the heads off on the other hand is pretty easy and a good set of stiff high flow heads will increase the top end flow quite a bit where the blower is making big power.

often you can make more power at lower boost which is a good thing

I'm thinking of picking up some cheap NASCAR cnc ported heads as they flow enough for 625 on the LS motors at 7000 rpms

the low mile take off heads are pretty safe as far as used parts go. They come loaded with lash capped TI valves too if desired. Great parts for cheap $$ on ls1 tech

Myfirstvette02

Well, I was thinking about putting in an LS6 cam and LS6 Valve springs with Ti Retainers and setting the redline to 6500. That way I'll need less boost to hit 550 rear. And besides... I do like a cammed engine. I had a cammed LS3 in my old 13 Camaro putting down 490RWHP. But I wanted a convertible so here I am. As far as $$, I'll be putting it in myself.

slow_vettec6

We have a LS6 RX7 running a ccp jam cam absolutely no issues at all in low rpms. Car made 672 whp at 12 psi on a mustang dyno. While you are doing the cam swap send your heads to Texas speed for about a grand you will get them port match change to ls9 headgaskets and arp headbolts. That's what we are running on the LS6 setup.

brentsz06

P1SC-1, 10lbs on the factory 6rib setup. Zero belt slip. Stock c5z with full exhaust. Close to 600rwhp is my guess

_zebra

my LS1's cam is pretty nasty for the 6.2 it was designed around, but my super-grippy clutch is the only thing that complicates daily driving it.
honestly though, unless you have a 97-98 with the weaker rods & smaller cam, a stock LS1 can easily do 550 wheel (650 crank... though nobody cares about crank numbers) with headers, a BaP, 60lb injectors, and a centri @ <10psi.

shoot, i was making 530wh/540wt with those items and my roots blower @ 10psi on a stock long block. a belt-turbo will easily pass that hp number with almost 100 less torque (easier on the bottom end).

Myfirstvette02

I was wondering if anyone could give me a hand. I'm looking for female connectors to the stock radiator fans. I need two of them. Has anyone seen any around? I've managed to find the male connectors but not the female ones.

Myfirstvette02

after thinking about it for a bit... it seems I need to get another hose and just start cutting it at an ever-increasing diagonal till it lines up is all I can think of doing.

Myfirstvette02

It is now alive! Started on the first crank. I have a vacuum leak to take care of but waiting on the 1/8th fitting to get it taken care of. I also have a copy of Prochargers "stock" tune file that shipped with the 38lb injectors. I successfully found the Radiator connecting female plugs to wire up an aftermarket 12v 16inch fan to the Procharger kit since the one I got was trashed and did 0 spicing into the factor harness and made my own connectors. And it worked no fire ( LOL ) I've let the car idle now for about 30min long enough to throw all the codes about missing secondary air and missing rear O2 sensors. That will get programmed out here shortly with HPtuners. Then I think I'm going to find a guy to professionally tune on a dyno and see what it'll do after. I love all of the information available on this forum. Now I just need to find out where to go to get my boost / fuel gauge to dim and I'll be good to go.

Myfirstvette02

Question if anyone is reading this. I've done some research and from what I can tell to get a dimmer function to work on an LED Boost gauge I can use the

-Yellow wire behind the A/C control:

And I should have an open power and ground in the passenger side floor panel for power/ground.

If the information I found about the dimmer option isn't true please feel free to chime in. Thanks, everyone.