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Old 11-22-2021, 12:35 PM
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pianoman90
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Hey guys, I have a 20k mile 2004 Z06 that is mostly stock. It currently has Borla stingers, short shifter, C6 Z51 brakes, lowered on stock bolts and 18/19" SP500s.

I recently purchased an AA kit along with other pieces and wondered if I could get some feedback regarding supporting mods. I've been searching the forums for the last several weeks...

I don't have specific rwhp goals, but would like to be a little over 600 in the end. I don't want or need a dyno queen. This car is more of a weekend driver, but does get driven. Never been to the track in this car and probably will keep it 100% street driven. Rarely launch hard on the street, but do enjoy punching it from a roll.

Here is my list:
AA V3 Ti with 3.6" pulley
80# injectors
52mm BOV
NGK TR6 plugs

KB BAP
AA fuel system - single or dual?
Alky meth injection

Stock heads
Stock bottom end

Tick stage 2 blower cam (227/243 | .625”/.615” | LSA116+6)
Straub trunion kit
Hardened pushrods (stock length, 7.400?)
Dual valve springs - any recommendations?
Aftermarket rocker arms or keep stock?

ATI stock sized balancer
Crank pinning kit / new GM bolt
Katech C5R timing chain
C6 PS pulley
Melling high pressure oil pump

Dewitts radiator
SPAL fans
Stock thermostat?

LG pro long tubes 1 3/4" with catless X
(Keep Borla stingers)

ECS diff brace
Aftermarket clutch (haven't decided which brand)

Would like to hear your thoughts or suggestions! Thanks.
Old 11-22-2021, 04:27 PM
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Rkreigh
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Originally Posted by pianoman90
Hey guys, I have a 20k mile 2004 Z06 that is mostly stock. It currently has Borla stingers, short shifter, C6 Z51 brakes, lowered on stock bolts and 18/19" SP500s.

I recently purchased an AA kit along with other pieces and wondered if I could get some feedback regarding supporting mods. I've been searching the forums for the last several weeks...

I don't have specific rwhp goals, but would like to be a little over 600 in the end. I don't want or need a dyno queen. This car is more of a weekend driver, but does get driven. Never been to the track in this car and probably will keep it 100% street driven. Rarely launch hard on the street, but do enjoy punching it from a roll.

Here is my list:
AA V3 Ti with 3.6" pulley
80# injectors
52mm BOV
NGK TR6 plugs

>>> that should be plenty for 600

KB BAP
AA fuel system - single or dual?
Alky meth injection

>>> dual, the fuel system is pain to upgrade, size for e85 or more power down the road

Stock heads
Stock bottom end

>>>> ok for 600

Tick stage 2 blower cam (227/243 | .625”/.615” | LSA116+6)
Straub trunion kit
Hardened pushrods (stock length, 7.400?)
Dual valve springs - any recommendations?
Aftermarket rocker arms or keep stock?

>>> get the full cam kit with springs and retainers. stock rocker with trunnion kit is fit

ATI stock sized balancer

>>>> I'd consider going OD on the balancer so you can run a bigger blower pulley.;
Crank pinning kit / new GM bolt
Katech C5R timing chain

>>> great stuff here

C6 PS pulley
Melling high pressure oil pump

Dewitts radiator
SPAL fans
Stock thermostat?

>>> 180 thermo

LG pro long tubes 1 3/4" with catless X
(Keep Borla stingers)

ECS diff brace
Aftermarket clutch (haven't decided which brand)

>>> get a dual disk clutch. check around. I have the McLeod RST sized for 1200 sounds like over kill but again the c5 drive train is pita to upgrade, size for down the road

>>>> stock clutch might last a while at that level on street tires, I'd get some feedback from other street clutch folks

Would like to hear your thoughts or suggestions! Thanks.
good luck I'd consider some upgraded rods and pistons. The stock gen 4 rods are stout and cheap, I like the molnar for h beam stuff

forged pistons are a plus. Don't be afraid to rev it and size the pulleys to make sure you don't over spin the blower

I like to pulley and spin the blower hard to get it up on boost before end of rev range

make sure you tune it accordingly and keep the liming safe if you stick with the stock pistons

it's easy to snap the ring land tops off and ruin your day even at 600

consider the e85, it's the secret sauce for blowers, or a very good meth system with safe gaurds.
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Old 11-22-2021, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by pianoman90
Hey guys, I have a 20k mile 2004 Z06 that is mostly stock. It currently has Borla stingers, short shifter, C6 Z51 brakes, lowered on stock bolts and 18/19" SP500s.

I recently purchased an AA kit along with other pieces and wondered if I could get some feedback regarding supporting mods. I've been searching the forums for the last several weeks...

I don't have specific rwhp goals, but would like to be a little over 600 in the end. I don't want or need a dyno queen. This car is more of a weekend driver, but does get driven. Never been to the track in this car and probably will keep it 100% street driven. Rarely launch hard on the street, but do enjoy punching it from a roll.

Here is my list:
AA V3 Ti with 3.6" pulley
80# injectors
52mm BOV
NGK TR6 plugs

KB BAP Ditch the BAP
AA fuel system - single or dual? Talk to Bret (BLOWNBLUEZ06) He will set you up with a single pump system
Alky meth injection

Stock heads
Stock bottom end

Tick stage 2 blower cam (227/243 | .625”/.615” | LSA116+6)
Straub trunion kit
Hardened pushrods (stock length, 7.400?) Measure don't guess
Dual valve springs - any recommendations? BTR dual springs
Aftermarket rocker arms or keep stock?

ATI stock sized balancer
Crank pinning kit / new GM bolt ARP bolt
Katech C5R timing chain ---->((https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-no-equal.html))
---->
https://briantooleyracing.com/rde-ti...rde-62188.html
C6 PS pulley
Melling high pressure oil pump

Dewitts radiator
SPAL fans
Stock thermostat?

LG pro long tubes 1 3/4" with catless X 1 7/8's headers ( I used Kooks)
(Keep Borla stingers)

ECS diff brace Yes with a Pfadt style diff mount
Aftermarket clutch (haven't decided which brand)

Would like to hear your thoughts or suggestions! Thanks.
Best of luck
Old 11-22-2021, 06:01 PM
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Yes to stock thermostat and I'd throw in a Gates RPM belt as well.

And if you're not well above 600 after all of that, blame the tuner lol
Old 11-23-2021, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by pianoman90
Hey guys, I have a 20k mile 2004 Z06 that is mostly stock. It currently has Borla stingers, short shifter, C6 Z51 brakes, lowered on stock bolts and 18/19" SP500s.

I recently purchased an AA kit along with other pieces and wondered if I could get some feedback regarding supporting mods. I've been searching the forums for the last several weeks...

I don't have specific rwhp goals, but would like to be a little over 600 in the end. I don't want or need a dyno queen. This car is more of a weekend driver, but does get driven. Never been to the track in this car and probably will keep it 100% street driven. Rarely launch hard on the street, but do enjoy punching it from a roll.

Here is my list:
AA V3 Ti with 3.6" pulley
80# injectors
52mm BOV
NGK TR6 plugs

KB BAP
AA fuel system - single or dual?
Alky meth injection

Stock heads
Stock bottom end

Tick stage 2 blower cam (227/243 | .625”/.615” | LSA116+6)
Straub trunion kit
Hardened pushrods (stock length, 7.400?)
Dual valve springs - any recommendations?
Aftermarket rocker arms or keep stock?

ATI stock sized balancer
Crank pinning kit / new GM bolt
Katech C5R timing chain
C6 PS pulley
Melling high pressure oil pump

Dewitts radiator
SPAL fans
Stock thermostat?

LG pro long tubes 1 3/4" with catless X
(Keep Borla stingers)

ECS diff brace
Aftermarket clutch (haven't decided which brand)

Would like to hear your thoughts or suggestions! Thanks.

If you are going to do the A&A fuel system you will not need the BAP. You won't need the Meth either. Meth is typically used as a band aid or safety measure. I would ensure you have a fuel system that does not rely on meth.

The V3 TI with a 3.6 pulley is going to be a lot of boost on a stock motor just like Rkreigh stated. I would stick with the stock 3.8. You will probably still see about 9 to 11 pounds with the 3.8 pulley which is a lot for the stock motor and non forged pistons. I still cracked a piston with a 3.8 pulley.

There is no need for the high pressure oil pump especially on a boosted motor that will have lots of crankcase pressure. Just get the volume pump.

stock thermostat is fine.

Keep the stock rocker arms. Just do the trunion upgrade . I would upgrade the lifters. Get a high quality lifter like the johnsons. Don't use the LS7 lifters (to many failures). If you do the lifters use the LS9 head gasket.

Get either a Monster or Mcleod twin disk clutch. Both are good.

Last piece of advice. If I had it to do over again I would have got he A&A 8 rib set up. Its a better set up and gives you room to grow. If you have the cash buy it.

Old 11-23-2021, 05:28 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys. A lot of things to consider here so I appreciate the input.

So far what I have purchased:
AA V3 Ti Kit - 6 rib
3.6" pulley
80# injectors
Katech C5R chain
Melling 10295 oil pump
Tick stage 2 blower cam (227/243 | .625”/.615” | LSA116+6)
Tick TP660DVSK dual valve springs / titanium retainers
Pushrod length checker (hardened pushrods later)
Timing cover / water pump / cam gaskets
LG 1 7/8" pros with catless X-pipe
AEM Wideband
Autometer boost gauge
A pillar pod

I'm still looking around at a lot of other items that need to be purchased including the fuel system, cooling system, and clutch.

Originally Posted by Rkreigh
good luck I'd consider some upgraded rods and pistons. The stock gen 4 rods are stout and cheap, I like the molnar for h beam stuff

forged pistons are a plus. Don't be afraid to rev it and size the pulleys to make sure you don't over spin the blower

I like to pulley and spin the blower hard to get it up on boost before end of rev range

make sure you tune it accordingly and keep the liming safe if you stick with the stock pistons

it's easy to snap the ring land tops off and ruin your day even at 600

consider the e85, it's the secret sauce for blowers, or a very good meth system with safe gaurds.
I thought about going ahead and getting a forged shortblock up front or having mine forged, but then this whole build starts to snowball haha. I don't want to be "that guy" but if it goes, it goes. I would like to keep the bottom end stock for now, get a conservative tune, and not overboost this setup.

On that note, I am planning to have Vengeance Racing in Georgia tune the car once everything is installed. They're about 2 hours away and I think they're farily reputable? I was going to have them install everything as well but they said they no longer do installs / sales on the C5s, but still do tuning.

How can I calculate the blower speed with various pulley combos? Say if I stick with the 3.6" and standard sized ATI balancer. As Rkreigh mentioned, how would I benefit from a 10% overdrive balancer other than add more boost (which I want to watch closely)?


Originally Posted by KT35
If you are going to do the A&A fuel system you will not need the BAP. You won't need the Meth either. Meth is typically used as a band aid or safety measure. I would ensure you have a fuel system that does not rely on meth.

The V3 TI with a 3.6 pulley is going to be a lot of boost on a stock motor just like Rkreigh stated. I would stick with the stock 3.8. You will probably still see about 9 to 11 pounds with the 3.8 pulley which is a lot for the stock motor and non forged pistons. I still cracked a piston with a 3.8 pulley.

There is no need for the high pressure oil pump especially on a boosted motor that will have lots of crankcase pressure. Just get the volume pump.

stock thermostat is fine.

Keep the stock rocker arms. Just do the trunion upgrade . I would upgrade the lifters. Get a high quality lifter like the johnsons. Don't use the LS7 lifters (to many failures). If you do the lifters use the LS9 head gasket.

Get either a Monster or Mcleod twin disk clutch. Both are good.

Last piece of advice. If I had it to do over again I would have got he A&A 8 rib set up. Its a better set up and gives you room to grow. If you have the cash buy it.
Still looking into the fuel setup and will definitely reach out to BlownblueZ06 to see what he recommends. I would like a setup now that I can grow into down the road and not be maxed out early on. Meth injection seems like a good safety net and prevents detonation / keeps things cool. Would a larger fuel system on pump 93 be as good? I think it may help considering the higher boost on the stock motor. As for the AA dual kit, you think the BAP isn't needed?

Would love the 8 rib setup, but already have the 6 rib headed this way. The 8 rib may be something to consider down the road if / when I need a new shortblock.

Regarding the pulley sizes, I have the 3.6 coming with the kit - but can always order the 3.8. I've seen several similar setups doing 8-10 on the 3.8 and 10-14 on the 3.6". I've also read where a lot of the 3.8 folks swap to the 3.6 and wished they had done it in the first place. How much boost did you see with your 3.8 setup?
Old 11-27-2021, 06:39 AM
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If you keep it to 600whp your stock short block will hold up for quite a while. It’s all about a good tune. If it were me I wouldn’t run out and get a built bottom end right away. Just slap the blower and supporting mods and go have fun.
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Old 11-27-2021, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Xlevanx
If you keep it to 600whp your stock short block will hold up for quite a while. It’s all about a good tune. If it were me I wouldn’t run out and get a built bottom end right away. Just slap the blower and supporting mods and go have fun.
Thanks, yeah I think that's the better way to go right now. I like to enjoy the build process and enjoy the mods along the way.
Old 11-28-2021, 09:21 AM
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04 has the top mount fuel pump setup from the C6 like my 03. I'm a Lego guy. Give me an instruction sheet with steps and pictures and I've got it. This works especially well for me since most time I am able to apply to the car is near midnight when there is no tech support. I am slowly working on developing such a guide for Bret since we've spent countless hours on the phone just over the fuel system. Once done? It is super easy and makes sense. But it is complicated enough that a quick call is insufficient without a guide to base off of. At least for me.

You've been doing your reading. I see good common sense upgrades on your list addressing weak points to do the best you can to avoid potential failure.

Coilovers. I'm just a snob now that I've experienced them and won't go back. With your power and the presumed good tires on the CCWs, I'd green light this once the blower setup is running.

Corbeau A4s or similar. Comfortable, but also an often overlooked safety function which keeps you from bouncing around the cabin when going through corners. How often do we use our knees to stay put right now? That is easily fixed.

MGW. Just saying.

RST / RXT / LT1. And I happen to love lightweight flywheels, but to each their own.

I've sheered the guibo and bolts off my TT, and that was on stock power. Consider DSS upgrades to match your intent for the car.

Ecs brace all the way. But more effective than that has been the pFadt trans mount which eliminates drivetrain hop. Hpi makes them now. See Brian.

Injectors. To go along with the rest of the fuel system, up the injectors. Especially if you consider an E30 mix. (Edit: shameless plug, but I have a pair of Fore Innovation fuel rails which fit LS1/LS6/Fast92 intakes for sale.)

Basic maintenance. Replace your factory hub while you're doing the chain/pump/cam. They fail. I stepped over to the AA direct drive with Innovators West 10 percent od balancer.

Lifters. Someone else said it. And I'll reiterate it. My Z died an early death when a $13 GM lifter failed and managed to take the block with it: My Reason To Use Good Lifters. I won't share the price tag I have applied to the car since then, but understand that it has snowballed excessively. Lol! All by choice though.

Sounds like a fun build. I demand pictures!

​​​​







Last edited by Tusc; 11-28-2021 at 09:32 AM.
Old 12-01-2021, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Tusc
04 has the top mount fuel pump setup from the C6 like my 03. I'm a Lego guy. Give me an instruction sheet with steps and pictures and I've got it. This works especially well for me since most time I am able to apply to the car is near midnight when there is no tech support. I am slowly working on developing such a guide for Bret since we've spent countless hours on the phone just over the fuel system. Once done? It is super easy and makes sense. But it is complicated enough that a quick call is insufficient without a guide to base off of. At least for me.

You've been doing your reading. I see good common sense upgrades on your list addressing weak points to do the best you can to avoid potential failure.

Coilovers. I'm just a snob now that I've experienced them and won't go back. With your power and the presumed good tires on the CCWs, I'd green light this once the blower setup is running.

Corbeau A4s or similar. Comfortable, but also an often overlooked safety function which keeps you from bouncing around the cabin when going through corners. How often do we use our knees to stay put right now? That is easily fixed.

MGW. Just saying.

RST / RXT / LT1. And I happen to love lightweight flywheels, but to each their own.

I've sheered the guibo and bolts off my TT, and that was on stock power. Consider DSS upgrades to match your intent for the car.

Ecs brace all the way. But more effective than that has been the pFadt trans mount which eliminates drivetrain hop. Hpi makes them now. See Brian.

Injectors. To go along with the rest of the fuel system, up the injectors. Especially if you consider an E30 mix. (Edit: shameless plug, but I have a pair of Fore Innovation fuel rails which fit LS1/LS6/Fast92 intakes for sale.)

Basic maintenance. Replace your factory hub while you're doing the chain/pump/cam. They fail. I stepped over to the AA direct drive with Innovators West 10 percent od balancer.

Lifters. Someone else said it. And I'll reiterate it. My Z died an early death when a $13 GM lifter failed and managed to take the block with it: My Reason To Use Good Lifters. I won't share the price tag I have applied to the car since then, but understand that it has snowballed excessively. Lol! All by choice though.

Sounds like a fun build. I demand pictures!

​​​​
Thanks, those are some good suggestions....and I just finished looking at your 9 page thread lol. That thing is coming together nicely! Will definitely start adding pics once I get everything in. Spoke with Josh at AA today, looks like the kit will be here on Monday! Tick cam kit and gauges arrived but still waiting on LG to ship the headers.
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Old 12-19-2021, 04:14 AM
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Parts are starting to arrive...AA kit showed up yesterday after sitting at a FedEx distribution center for 3 weeks!





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Old 12-20-2021, 02:44 PM
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just wait until she get's home and see's what's cooking for dinner!!

great parts ****. Makes me want to update the p1sc 6 belt drive to my A&A with 8 rib. I went with the innovators west 10% OD pulley so you can run a bit larger blower pulley for less slip

600 at the tire is plenty of fun on street tires. My turbo car puts down 800 which is fun at the track but more terrifying than fun on the street. The blower cars ramp the power more linear and you don't get to full boost until max rpms so they tend to be a bit more controllable (and often better) on the street.

I was about to yank my p1sc and go twins again, but I'm mellowing as I get older and I think 800 at the tire will take me from zero to jail fast enough.
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Old 12-22-2021, 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Rkreigh
just wait until she get's home and see's what's cooking for dinner!!

great parts ****. Makes me want to update the p1sc 6 belt drive to my A&A with 8 rib. I went with the innovators west 10% OD pulley so you can run a bit larger blower pulley for less slip

600 at the tire is plenty of fun on street tires. My turbo car puts down 800 which is fun at the track but more terrifying than fun on the street. The blower cars ramp the power more linear and you don't get to full boost until max rpms so they tend to be a bit more controllable (and often better) on the street.

I was about to yank my p1sc and go twins again, but I'm mellowing as I get older and I think 800 at the tire will take me from zero to jail fast enough.
Lol. Yeah I still have a lot of parts left to purchase before I'll start the install but we're getting there. 600-650 rwhp would be a nice goal and I think realistic. I've had a ported 04 cobra with 500+ and always enjoyed that linear experience...albeit that was a roots style v the vortech / centrifugal. Will give some updates along the way!
Old 02-06-2022, 07:08 PM
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AA dual fuel system and Alky meth kit arrived today. Also received the C6 PS pulley and Straub trunion kit.



The only thing left before I start the install is to buy a clutch. I've been thinking about going with a Mantic twin disc. Would you all stick with a steel flywheel or go aluminum?

https://manticclutchusa.com/products...minum-flywheel

Also I was wondering if I should just go ahead and replace the rear main seal since I'm in there? The car has 20k miles on it and no signs of leak currently. Should I mess with something that's not giving me trouble right now?
Old 02-08-2022, 04:10 PM
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Also got the QuickJack bled and working

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Old 02-15-2022, 08:38 PM
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Dude, you are way overthinking. If you're going to run the A&A kit, just tell A&A what your goal is and they will tell you what you need. Sometimes less is more. 600rwhp is easy. No built motor needed. 3.8 pulley, standard size balancer, 80lb injectors, a 450lph pump and send it. And a 2 bar map sensor. I'm in north GA. I did a remote tune with ryne Cunningham on my procharged 02 c5z. If you need a shop to build your car I know if one that's close to vengeance. You can also look into LSxperts. They are even on FB and are also in GA and do Vette work. If you need some help or have some questions hit me up. There's also an ATL modified corvettes fb group you can chime in on.

Brent-
Old 02-16-2022, 07:53 AM
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it's a big ol pile of parts and 600 is pretty ez for a well tuned blower car

the alchy is nice, but use it for lowering iat and raising octane and don't "rely" on it.

it's not needed if you can get 93 or better gas.

the stock clutch will hold on street tires so unless you are greedy for more, get some stick time at 600 at the tire

I'd get an aero force gauge or something that allows you to watch for detonation and monitor the PIDs

I monitor throttle %, that way I know if I'm really getting with it or still chicken :>

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Old 02-16-2022, 08:46 PM
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ATI balancer and speed bleeder arrived



The pile keeps getting bigger lol


Ended up going with the Mantic twin disc / lightened steel flywheel, which should arrive on Friday
Mantic Clutch

Figured I would go ahead and get the car set up. Swept the garage, moved the Jag out so there is plenty of room, and have been looking at multiple threads / youtube videos of the best way to approach the install. Loving the QuickJack already.






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Old 02-16-2022, 09:01 PM
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Thanks guys for the feedback!

Originally Posted by brentsz06
Dude, you are way overthinking. If you're going to run the A&A kit, just tell A&A what your goal is and they will tell you what you need. Sometimes less is more. 600rwhp is easy. No built motor needed. 3.8 pulley, standard size balancer, 80lb injectors, a 450lph pump and send it. And a 2 bar map sensor. I'm in north GA. I did a remote tune with ryne Cunningham on my procharged 02 c5z. If you need a shop to build your car I know if one that's close to vengeance. You can also look into LSxperts. They are even on FB and are also in GA and do Vette work. If you need some help or have some questions hit me up. There's also an ATL modified corvettes fb group you can chime in on.

Brent-
Yes I have been talking with Josh and Andy about everything and they have some great input. Their customer service thus far has been outstanding, and I haven't even started the install. I think their dual fuel pump kit + 80# injectors will be more than enough for my current goals. Also won't have to run the BAP with it. The Alky kit has a 2 bar MAP sensor and I've been in touch with Vengeance about tuning. They will be giving me a base tune to get the car running and troubleshoot any issues here locally before I take it to them for some dyno time.

I will be doing the installation myself here, but Vengeance is only a few hours drive away. Thanks for the shop recommendations too. I thought about doing a forged build while I'm doing everything but decided to keep the stock internals and try to keep a safer tune. If the motor goes, it goes lol. I'll address that later if needed. It's good to know a few good LS shops in the Southeast should I need a build.


Originally Posted by Rkreigh
it's a big ol pile of parts and 600 is pretty ez for a well tuned blower car

the alchy is nice, but use it for lowering iat and raising octane and don't "rely" on it.

it's not needed if you can get 93 or better gas.

the stock clutch will hold on street tires so unless you are greedy for more, get some stick time at 600 at the tire

I'd get an aero force gauge or something that allows you to watch for detonation and monitor the PIDs

I monitor throttle %, that way I know if I'm really getting with it or still chicken :>
Hahaha thanks....Agreed. I've seen some decent gains pushing the meth, but will probably end up using it for safety and just run 93. Who knows when the meth pump will go bad. I assume it will leak eventually and / or have issues down the road, but it does have some good benefits. I will probably just try and keep it safe.

And I'm eyeing these 325/30/19 MT ET Street SS radials. Not a lot of options for a stickier tire in 19" diameter. I had a set of 555Rs on my 04 Cobra that were legit, but they only have a 35 profile in 19" and it just doesn't look right with my setup.
MT ET Street SS

I never drive in the rain because the water etches the CCW polished aluminum finish, so I'm not worried about that. I can break my cheap 305/30/19 Hankook's right now at stock power, and I'm worried they won't hold on the dyno. May just have to upgrade
Old 02-16-2022, 09:09 PM
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pianoman90
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Also randomly last night decided to do the antivenom mod. I have a Hurst short shifter from the previous owner that was super notchy. This mod actually cleared it up a good bit, esp 1-4 gears. One busted finger later, I'd honestly say it was worth the $7 and 20 min install time





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