SCALLOPED91

I've removed the stock bolt, pinned the crank, and reinstalled the original bolt but I did not put loctite on the bolt do to all the stories I've heard about not being to get it back off with loctite on. I pulled the stock bolt and didn't see loctite on it, and it only went after several doses of PB BLaster and an industrial impact gun.
So, I placed the new bolt in place without loctite and am just wondering, while I still have the clearance and opportunity to get to the bolt, should I put loctite on, or just let the heat treatment of the bolt and torque of the impact gun be enough?

SBCGENII

You only reused the stock bolt to put the balancer on then removed it right? Then installed a new bolt and torqued it properly? All the new stock bolts I have seen had something already on the threads. If you do the proper torquering technique you will know if the impact you have will be enough.

SCALLOPED91

Yeah, I'm not the first owner of the car and some work had already been done to it: cam, headers, intake. I pulled the stock bolt out, pinned the crank with the pinning kit A&A sent, and replaced the old bolt with the new one they sent me. I heated the bolt as they said in the instructions then torqued the hell out of the bolt, but I didn't use loctite as they said. I have heard too many stories of bad coming when loctite is used. I didn't see loctite on the bolt I pulled and it was hell to get off, so I didn't put any on the new one that went in.
Just figured I should ask some people who've done it. I usually loctite these kinds of things, that's why I ask.

Smoken1

Get the ARP bolt, so if it has to come off again you can reuse it
No loctite on it

glennd

The stock bolt should not be reused.
Crank Bolt, Crank/Balancer Pulley Bolt LS1/LS6 5.7L New GM, when replacing the crank/balancer on an LS1 motor the bolt has to be changed every time because it is a torque to yield bolt (meaning it stretches and can't be used again).
Proper torque is 250ft/lbs or 37ft/lbs + 140* additional rotation

Chevy Guy

You will be fine. I've had a couple of new bolts on my car for cams and supercharger installs. I've never used locktite. I have read some nightmares about locktite stripping cranks threads. Now that it's pinned you are even more secure.

SCALLOPED91

Definitely not reusing the same bolt. The kit came with a new bolt that I installed instead. Nothing but new going in.

Millenium Z06

My ATI balancer came off twice with an ARP bolt and no locktite using the ARP lube and torquing it to 245lbs.

I pulled it, keyed it, cleaned the crank threads and the bolt with brake parts cleaner then used Locktite 262. Hasn't moved since

Cheesecake 07

You're good to go with pinning it. Loctite works out sometimes it seems, but brings nothing to the table if installed correct and pinned.

SCALLOPED91

Oh Jesus, that had to be a blast! I of course mean that very figuratively. Did the pulley go too, or were you fortunate to not have it come off?

I went through hell getting my mustang foxbody's crank off, then back on again during its blower install, but I used loctite on it. I've always put loctite on all those kinds of things. Beings this is my first blower installation on a ls1, I got a little torn hearing and reading about their fickle nature in this matter.

I do appreciate the input.

SCALLOPED91

Yeah, the pinning went great; the sucker tapped into place nicely and went just passed the balancer and bolt seating area as described for no bolt interference.

Millenium Z06

Didnt come all the way off, the rack prevents that. It did walk all the way to the rack though.

stevieturbo

OEM bolt does have some locking compound on it when new, and you are supposed to only use them once.

That said I have used them before more than once and I did put loctite on it. But best to buy a new one.

Even now using the ARP bolt, I still loctite it. The huge f'ing torque these go to, the loctite has never been an issue for removal versus that damn torque !

SBCGENII

Someone above said 37lbs +140*=250lbs. I think it's more than that LOL.
In my experience 37lbs+140*=what a cheap 3/4 impact with a 1/2 air line can do.

SCALLOPED91

Yeah, I couldn't believe the torque. I had to buy an industrial impact gun to break that sucker free. Impact also stopped the pulley from spinning.

stevieturbo

I dont think I've ever tightened one up to the correct torque. I'll go as hard as I can with a regular 2ft 1/2" bar, and that feels huge ! I'd be scared of it ripping the threads out.

Although I think torque for much later bolts is a lot lower than earlier cars ? Still huge though.

Chevy Guy

I stopped at ~120 degrees every time, that's with me hanging off of the end of my 1/2 inch breaker bar - lol.

SBCGENII

There are a couple tools out there that hold the flywheel in place if you have a manual trans car.

SBCGENII

I was just looking at a stock LS3 bolt still in the wrapper and no locktite on that one.

SCALLOPED91

Anyone know of a good way to hold the pulley in place with an automatic car. I've locked the bolt down as far as I can with the torque of the impact gun but I have know way of knowing what the torque is at without putting a bar on it.

So, I'm left with not knowing and that is scary. Anyone have any thoughts, suggestions, etc...?