wildthingwood1994

Im wondering what more small things i can do or need to be done to my car to prepare it for forced induction.

I have a 98 6spd and am putting a kennel bell kit on in about 6 weeks and will be keeping the car around 500rwhp with methonal injection. Car is bolt ons now, has 115k miles and is getting a new clutch and stuff in a few weeks (I think I've decided on the monster lt1s twin).
I just changed the trans, diff and coolant fluids. I recently learned about pinning the crank so I guess I'm getting the a&a kit and am going to read up on how to do that. Kit comes with all necessary fueling upgrades already so.
Open to suggestions thanks.

Big Jt

pinning the cranking is 5/6 of the total time of installing a blower. I can literally hang everything i need to in 30 mins or less..

meine96ws6

My answer would vary on how you dcide to drive the car.

You are correct about the A&A kit being complete with boost a pump and fuel injectors and a base handheld tune.

The last time I did a similar project the car was a 99' c5 with a regular ls1 that had 190,xxx miles on it.

To not risk some minor grenading the motor we did the following;

Ported LS oil pump
Roller rocker trunion kit
Hardened pushrods
Dual Valve springs

This was good enough since the RPMs would be a little higher to enjoy the boost.

The car has held up fine and now has 220,xxx miles on it;
ECS Blower cam
LS6 intake manifold
XS power Long tube headers
Corsa cat back
C6z clutch

Overall its a monster putting down 563 rear wheel at around 10 psi up top. We still have the methanol as a additional safety feature to help keep temperature down.

It's a pump gas car. When you lay into the throttle the additional power hits hard.

wildthingwood1994

I had a feeling the Pin would be a PITA. I don't know if I want to get into "internals" because i don't know a lot about doing top end work. The car will just be street, no hard launching or high rpms.

MVP'S ZO6

Pinning the crank isn't that bad. Takes longer to get the steering rack out of the way than it does to do the pinning.

wildthingwood1994

That's kind of what I meant, any one have a good diy on moving the steering rack out of the way?

MVP'S ZO6

Yep jack up the car take wheels off get radiator out of there, unbolt the tie rod ends from the knuckle, unbolt rack and lines connecting everything (including steering shaft) and slide it out the driver side wheel well. It's not going to slide out like butter but with finesse it will come out.

MVP'S ZO6

Note when removing the tie rod ends, if you need to shock them loose from the steering knuckle, give a couple of sharp taps with a hammer to the front of the boss on the steering knuckle it will shock it loose.dont hit on the threaded stud of the tie rod end because you can damage it. If you must do it that way at least thread the nut on the end of it a few threads. But you shouldn't have to do that.

neutron82

you don't have to totally remove the rack if you don't want to... it's a very tight fit to get it out of the driver's side and you will more than likely end up having to lower the cradle a bit to fit the big end through, not worth doing in my opinion if you are just pinning the crank... I just move it over to the passenger side as far as it will go and you can move the driver side tie rod up and out of the way to give you enough clearance... I have done it that way a handful of times with no problems whatsoever... really no need to remove the radiator either unless you are doing a cam

Big Jt

I undo the tie rods and you can push the rack up enough to get a drill in there, just remove the radiator and push the condenser out the way. Dont have to undo the lines..

but if you do, either stub wrenches and work from inside the wheel well or I have just cut the line itself and replace it ..seems to go alot faster that way..

BLOWNBLUEZ06

I keep the nut on the end of the tie rod and hit it directly. I only have a problem doing that with the aftermarket POS's with the castle nuts. Warm it up to ~200 with a torch or heat gun if it's stubborn.

I also like to loosen the front cradle nut all the way and walk a pair of pry bars in between the cradle and frame to add space for removing the cradle.