all4spl

I went with the nitrous outlet plate kit. Trying to figure out everything else I need for safety. I have read up on window switches. I've found a few old controllers that arent available anymore and im trying to figure out what exactly I need to make sure my 150shot is going to be safe. Any thoughts on a microedge? What should I be getting to make sure this kit I have is very safe?

thanks guys!!

Shirl

I always went by using nitrous at wide open throttle as to avoid any possibility of a backfire (with a wet system). Anything above 3,000 rpm and up to where it shifts at wot is safe with a wet system. I've never heard of microedge. I had a NX system with everything included but chose not to use a window switch because if I left the system on by accident, I wouldn't have nitrous spraying unexpectedly automatically. I liked manually operating the system with the push of a button. I would contact nitrous outlet's techs and get advice from them on what they recommend if you haven't done so already.

igtabg1

People are going to tell you different things to be safe with nitrous, but in my experience.... Window switch, blow down tube (for track tech), good tune (I suggest with a LNC-2000), one step colder plugs, Bottle heater or NANO, and purge…. All those things at a minimum. Personally I don’t think a microedge is needed for a 150 shot. I didn’t have much success with a FPSS. I like to keep it simple. But you could honestly probably make it work with less stuff than that, but like I said earlier that’s what I think is the minimum for running nitrous. Call the guys at Nitrous Outlet, their customer service is excellent and can help you pick which accessories you feel comfortable with.

Chuck

NukeC5

I just went though the buying process and was asking about the same stuff. Aside from the kit, for a safe operating system you will need a fuel system pressure safety switch, a nitrous filter, proper spark plugs. Id recommend. NGK BR7-EF plugs. Probably a fuel pump upgrade depending on other mods. You need a purge kit, and you'll wan a blow down tube if you want to race at a track. I'm assuming you got or will need a bottle heater or nano kit to regulate bottle pressure. You'll want a bottle gauge if it didn't come with one.
As for controlling the system you will probably want all the features for safe operation of the engine. Either run the peddle actuated WOT switch, or use the TPS along with other functions. I went with the NOS mini 2 stage controller. It does tps, window, and progressive. Meaning nitrous will only run at WOT, between a set rpm range, and at a set % from activation to the full spray over a set amount of time (IE: 1 second) to help with off the line traction an less stress on the engine as drive train. I also went with the LPE LNC2000 timing retard control. This is another way to save your engine by having the right timing pulled automatically for your nitrous shot. You can also always run your optimal N/A time when not spraying.

Obviously this becomes much more money than a $750 kit. Even on the 10% off sale I dropped 2500 on my setup. But this is the right way to do it.

Sigforty

I run a FJO Controller, which is similar to the NOS Mini Controller. I run a WOT switch under the pedal in my C5 and have the controller set to a 3000-6300 rpm window. Other than those two items the rest of my setup is standard switches and relays to arm everything.

You have not mentioned any other mods you have, but you will want to move to a colder plug.

all4spl

Fast 92
Ls2 tb
G5x3
Long tubes
Catback
Blackwing

Thanks for the help so far guys. Trying to do a cheaper variance of what is needed vs another 500 in electronics.

corvette8189

pm sent

Sigforty

The controller is nice, but if you only plan on spraying 150 you probably do not need the progressive function. The window switch is a must in my book. Here is a lay down of what I have for my nitrous system, but I am running a direct port.

Nitrous Outlet direct port
Nitrous Outlet stand alone fuel cell
Nitrous outlet purge solenoid
FJO Controller
BeerC5 big face switch panel
Dynotune bottle heater
Dynotune remote opener
Dynotune nitrous pressure gauge
Dynotune fuel pressure gauge (only one now, but want to add another for the stand alone)

For wiring I tapped the PCM for rpm signal. I used a WOT switch under the gas pedal. There are 3 wires in the passenger floor board (switched 12V, 12V, ground) I used those to run my switch panel. I ran fused connections into the car and to the trunk for the heater and opener. I put my main relay and FJO in my glove box.

For timing, I run two different tunes and use HP tuners to load them in the PCM. I know when I am going to use nitrous these days, so I have a process of changing the tune, hooking up everything and going to colder spark plugs. A majority of the time I am running hotter plugs and on my NA tune.