WTB 300mm 4L60E input & output shafts.
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
WTB 300mm 4L60E input & output shafts.
Looking for sites or vendors to pick up a 300mm 4L60E input output and output shafts for my automatic tranny. Thanks in advance.
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
Posts: 28,846
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#4
I have never used or recommended the 300MM shafts. Not saying there isn't a place for them, but from what I have seen "cryoing" the output shaft will stop the cracking and if you want to do the input shaft, go ahead. The price on crying is 1/10th the price of the 300MM shafts and will solve the cracking of these output shafts. Unless you have the transmission shifting very hard all the time, (which is extremely hard on the whole drivetrain), have very quick 60 foot times (1.40 or quicker) or drive very aggressive with sticky tires, then cryoing would be a good idea. The only time I have seen broken input shafts or output shafts were from Art Carr 700R4's (real junk) that had the 2nd accumulator blocked off. Besides Art Carr, I have very rarely seen a problem with the output shaft, and never with the input shaft. The small diameter torque converter will prevent this pretty much by itself. And the higher the stall, will lessen the less shock on any given shift. Working with accumulation will prevent parts breakage to a high degree. If you just want to make it "bullet proof", then get ahold of Crygenics International in Arizona about this. Start with a good input or output shaft, check to make sure the splines are straight and not starting to twist or are hammered. It is apx. $90.00 to cryo both shafts, instead of $900.00 for the two 300MM shafts. For that kind of money you can get a very good torque converter, or a "very complete" rebuild kit for these transmissions.
#5
Burning Brakes
We know why you need 300MM shafts right JJ. Anything under a 1.40 launch will test CYRO. ....Remember how my CYRO shaft looked after it broke it two a few years ago.........300 MM no more issues....but need to stay 1.40-1.50 0-60 to keep everything else together for a little while.
#6
Le Mans Master
I have never used or recommended the 300MM shafts. Not saying there isn't a place for them, but from what I have seen "cryoing" the output shaft will stop the cracking and if you want to do the input shaft, go ahead. The price on crying is 1/10th the price of the 300MM shafts and will solve the cracking of these output shafts. Unless you have the transmission shifting very hard all the time, (which is extremely hard on the whole drivetrain), have very quick 60 foot times (1.40 or quicker) or drive very aggressive with sticky tires, then cryoing would be a good idea. The only time I have seen broken input shafts or output shafts were from Art Carr 700R4's (real junk) that had the 2nd accumulator blocked off. Besides Art Carr, I have very rarely seen a problem with the output shaft, and never with the input shaft. The small diameter torque converter will prevent this pretty much by itself. And the higher the stall, will lessen the less shock on any given shift. Working with accumulation will prevent parts breakage to a high degree. If you just want to make it "bullet proof", then get ahold of Crygenics International in Arizona about this. Start with a good input or output shaft, check to make sure the splines are straight and not starting to twist or are hammered. It is apx. $90.00 to cryo both shafts, instead of $900.00 for the two 300MM shafts. For that kind of money you can get a very good torque converter, or a "very complete" rebuild kit for these transmissions.
this is great advice and thanks for the details in the write up
I'm looking to build a high hp 4l65E to hold 800 hp at the tire
RPM lvl 7 is one option and I've been a happy customer
what would you recommend
and sorry I have one "noob" question I have a 4l65e out of a vette, can this bet converted to a front mount tranny with a bell housing and tail housing or is this a differnet tranny case for the rear mount c5 cradle