0CK@UPPCOS

^^^^^THIS^^^^^^


^^^^^NOT THIS^^^^^^


Hit up Spinmonster on here, he used to have a head made for fly-cutting the pistons that he would rent/loan out. Super simple to use, all done by hand.

CK

Checkers02

Thanks CK your always so helpful. I have been thinking about this all day and am contemplating leaving it apart until I can save up for a turbo cam with just a Lil less lift. It should perform better that way too right?

stevieturbo

Exactly what cam do you have now ?

slow ride

Well I'm sure I could do it well, the rest of you are on your own I guess. The thing doesn't need much of a cut to clear as it sits, one would have to be a butcher with the tool to mess up anything. With a smaller cam it probably won't need flycut anyway, but if you can get a mock head to use for flycutting by all means use it.

Checkers02

Wish I knew. In the car when I bought it. All I know is the car shakes bad at idle. Well when it idles and has one hell of a lope. Definitely not a turbo cam.

stevieturbo

Seems a cam change is the solution to all of the problems, and can only be a good thing

Checkers02

Ya I think that's best. Anyone looking to sponsor a Corvette ha ha

0CK@UPPCOS

Again with this I would refer you back to Spinmonster, he's a pro at specing a cam for particular applications. His NA cam is a record holder for the stock heads.

Slow, not trying to dog on you, but there's a right way and a wrong way. Could a grinder work? Sure, but it's still not the right way, and WAY too much room for error. There's a reason that pistons are balanced down to the gram (or fraction of), so exactly how are you going to measure the material removed to ensure all the pistons weigh the same? With a proper fly-cutter you can measure the depth of your cuts, all using the same bit, in the same exact position on each piston. Makes for a bit more precision.


CK

slow ride

I understand where you are coming from CK, but you are not taking into consideration tolerances either. Don't get me wrong I love what you guys are doing, but factory pistons could have a couple gram spread or more on them as is. Out of the box aftermarket pistons have always been between 0-3 grams for me. I've matched up a lot of pistons and you have to remove a lot of fricken aluminumn to take off 3 grams. Not a chance in hell that I tear down a stock engine and have the rods all be perfect either. I can wave my hand fast over the scale and make it change a gram.

Can't guarantee each piston is at the same deck height or doesn't tilt more or less than the other during the fly cut, etc. Close yes, but not perfect. I just don't really consider fly cutting that precise in the first place, but we all get by with it. What I was saying above was just for his case as it doesn't need a full valve relief and just a tiny tiny cut. He would have had serious valve problems by now had they needed much more clearance than none. I would never do a serious fly cut the way I stated above, but it was just a quick and dirty suggestion for people with the ability (part of the reason I joked about it).

I've seen guys change to forged rods without re-balancing rotating parts, cylinders de-glazed with sand paper, etc and they all work out for the most part. Not right to me, but they never seen them come apart either. All this said I think he will be much better off with a turbo cam for driveability and low end performance anyway.

Checkers, most of the extra clearance will be from reduced duration and valve events overall, lift doesn't play as big a part as most would think. If you can find out what your cam actually is you might be able to smooth it out some and increase piston to valve clearance by just retarding the cam some if it has a lot of built in advance. If it's a comp cam it will have the Lobe numbers or part number ground into the end. It does sound like a large cam though so not sure any of this would make enough difference for you in the end. Let me know if you can find the number on it, but you will probably have to pull it to see.

Checkers02

Guys I really appreciate the help on this matter. I love how aggressive this cam is but I've always known it's not right for my end goal. I'm really thinking about pulling the cam to get numbers but not sure if I can just pull the cover and see numbers or if they are on the other end. I know my luck they will be at the rear of the engine haha. If I do then I'll check cam number before I look into another cam. Only have 2 problems. It's taking up the room I use to make my extra money and I started getting hospital bills from my daughter's extended stay. But if I get another cam then I hope CK knows I'll be calling him again to help me tune it! Or getting learning books.
Also it currently has comp cam 7.400 push rods. Anyway I can spec a new cam to match those to save money?

0CK@UPPCOS

Very much true and I agree with you, but I'd still have to say there's a bit more precision using a tool than going to town with a grinder! But I'm far from an artist with exceptional hand/grinder capabilities.... lol

Like I said it's possible....but not something I would advocate freely on the forums. You'd be surprised at some of the stuff I've seem come in through the shop because someone "read it on the forum". Giving your blessings for someone to take a grinder to the internals of their engine just sounds like a really bad start! You know years from now down the line someone's going to read this and say "Dude, I can just take a grinder to my pistons! Cool!"

CK

stevieturbo

I'd like to hope it wouldnt take them years to try !!! lol

And yes you can take a grinder to them