Turbo-Geist

I'm building the engine with a rotating assembly rated to handle about 1500HP at the crank. Obviously the turbos and some other supporting parts aren't currently up to the task, but I would like for the internals to be able to handle the power.

I have discussed the crank, rods, and pistons with the respective manufacturers and realized that the piston pins are only 0.150" wall and probably questionable at that power level. The plan is to upgrade them to a 0.200" wall, tool steel piston pin.

For any of the experienced LS veterans, are there any other parts that should be considered or recommended on this build from a reliability standpoint related to the rotating assembly, internally and/or externally?

slow ride

Aftermarket block Any reason you chose RED over ERL, etc? I wish we had more aluminum block offerings that didn't cost as much as a decent used car. I didn't notice if you pinned the mains or not with those billet caps? The parts are not balanced yet are they? The added weight of the new Pins will slightly change the bobweight. I'm very jealous of all the nice parts, good luck with everything.

ajrothm

Definitely do the .200 wrist pins, also the upgraded main caps.

I'm curious about the Ti intake valves.. I know the valves are lighter but I always thought Ti was not good for forced induction due to the temps and Ti not being able to handle the high EGTs..?

I know on all the hayabusas we build, we replace the Ti intake valves with stainless on all the turbo stuff...

Anything you can do for valve train stability is money worth spending... 3/8" and 7/16" pushrods are a good idea as well.. But stick with stock rocker arms..or upgrade with the CHE trunnions.

Your bottom end choices seem solid, should handle that 1500 hp, I bet the block goes before the crank/rods do.

I also wish we had better aluminum block options...

inspector12

goodjob so far Ben!

BLOWNBLUEZ06

I mentioned behind the scenes that I've not been pleased with the nitrided steel rings that Total Seal and Wiseco have been pushing. Although the ductile iron rings may not get as perfect a seal, they stand to maintain what seal they do achieve for much longer, while putting up with the heat and abuse much better. If you're feeling extra coin in your pocket, I would throw down for a set of tool steel rings. They'll take the beating for sure.

If you run the steel rings, keep a soft tuneup in it and they'll last. Get a hair too aggressive, for just a moment and you'll find yourself re-ringing it shortly after.

I'm guessing RED was used because they're as good as they come in their business. If they're good enough for Erik Koenig of HKE and Halston Harrist of H Squared Racing Engines, they're good enough for me.

Turbo-Geist

Thanks. I'm doing what I can from a time and budget standpoint. I could do more, but it would cost more and take even longer. When I turn the key on this one, all bills will have been paid in full.

I'll compare what I've spent on this one after it's complete to some of the other options and see where it falls. I will say that given some of the block issues I've seen in the last year, I wouldn't have the time to pull the block and send it back. I do all of the wrenching work and can't pay a shop to R&R a defective block. It would be a major setback from a time standpoint.

I didn't pin the mains based on the prior engine not showing any signs of bearing issues. Steve had the billet caps left over from another build and cut me a good deal on them. They fit extremely tight and the mains were line bored and honed. The machine shop has been very good about pairing up each bearing set to achieve precise clearances.

The parts were already balanced and will require a rebalance for the new wrist pins. I felt like it was worth doing since they hadn't begun final assembly.

I went forward with the 0.200" wrist pins and the billet caps were line bored at R.E.D. so they are part of the package.

I wanted this engine to have some rpm capabilty and with a 2.20" intake valve felt that a SS valve was too much of a weight penalty. I haven't heard of issues with titanium and heat. The intake valve gets doused with fuel so I think the heat shouldn't be a problem from an EGT standpoint. I went with inconel valves on the exhaust, but I have seen Ti valves offered on the exhaust side.

Pushrods will be purchased soon and they will be stout. I kept the stock LS7 rockers and did the trunion upgrade.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I doubt it sees 1500HP but feel the rating may help from a reliability standpoint. I just want to dip into the 8s with a 6 speed a few times. Should take a little over 1k if everything goes right.

Smoove

Can't wait to see it in action dude.

Love the manual pilot setups!

JDS99

Just??


Looking forward to seeing it Ben

setxws6

Hey look I finally made it back to CF lol. Keep up the build updates Ben

slow ride

I was just asking why for the most part, but I know RED is good ****. I didn't know about the deals, etc. going on with some of the parts. I just figured at this level I would have rather had 6 bolt heads even though 4 bolt will do when the right hardware and surface prep is used

Seems like most guys creeping up on 1000whp end up with fretting on the main caps and pin them to help. Seems to show up on aluminum blocks more than iron. I often wonder if the uber high flowing heads make much difference on these builds when the turbos end up being such a restriction in the system. I can see the heads helping on some big high flowing t4 turbos, etc. but when the backpressure gets so high do you think the flow does much good? Look at all the crazy performing stock 317/243/799 heads on FI builds. Just making an observation and would love some data on the entire subject really.

Turbo-Geist

Bret, good technical advice and I appreciate you passing along the information. I've learned many little details on this build that I wouldn't have known about before. You mentioned extra coin and at this point I'm down to spending a few hundred dollars at a time instead of a thousand at a time.

The last tune wasn't considered super aggressive for pump and meth. I can't tell you how many people told me that I needed to add more timing and I never did. I'm going to remain conservative again and let it make whatever power it will make without going beyond what is realisitic. Unless there is a bargain out there, I'm going to hold off on buying a full set of Akerly & Childs tool steel rings$$ and use the GFX stainless steel. If I need to make a change in the future, I will consider upgrading.

This was a decent ring discussion: http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=60332

You're right about R.E.D. and I think their clientele speaks for itself. I really enjoyed working with Steve on the build and looking forward to seeing how this engine performs.

Turbo-Geist

Thanks. Manual only for me. I'm giving up some ET, but I like rowing the gears.

Good to see you on here. Now we need to get you back into something with 4 wheels. We need to race again after your upgrades if I ever finish this project.

InfiniteReality

Can't wait to see/hear it finished.... Good luck with it Ben!

setxws6

Nah we need to get you on something with 2 wheels! Something you don't have to worry about having a built motor, meth injection, built trans/diff/shafts, or power adder...

Smoove

You and me both bud.

2bridges

Subscribed!

Watching your progress.
Building a very similar dry sleeve LS2 427 twin turbo / TR6060 project
Few questions:

What final compression you end up with?
curious about your selected cam range (PM if you prefer)

My build is road race oriented not drag race, but our core parts choice is eerily similar

Turbo-Geist

Have you posted any details on your build? I like going to the drag strip but the car isn't drag oriented. The plan is for something that is a good all around performer and only requires a tire change to be ready for a certain event.

The final compression ratio is ~9.75:1

The cam specs @ 0.050" lift are:
_236/238 .639"/.639" with 1.8 ratio rockers.
Lobes are EPS HiRev custom lobes ground under license by Cam Motion.

Is this what you are looking for on the cam range or something else?

2bridges

My build is not really relevant for this forum (not my Z06), it is a 1949 ford coupe.

my final compression will fall between 9.8 - 10.2 depending on head gasket.

Thanks for info on cam - that is what I was curious about - that is pretty close to where I will be though I may go with a little less lift as my intake valves are on the heavier side (TFS 255 LS3) 2.165 stainless.

Smoove

(TT 427 in a 49 coupe-roadracer)

Sounds chaotic when you put all those things together.

2bridges

This thing should be an absolute terror.

Should to be a couple hundred pounds lighter than my blown Z06, with much more tire under it (305 front, 345 rear), big brake setup and very unique