Is it ok to mount a vaccum block upside down(port facing upward )???
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Is it ok to mount a vaccum block upside down(port facing upward )???
When i did the install of my digiatl boost gauge it had a warning to mount the map sensor with the inlet nipple pointing down to prevent any damage from condensation i think.So i did install i inside the dash wit the inlet nipple poiting down.
What about a vaccum block ??? I need a port for :
-Boost gauge
-Blower blow off valve
-Progressive Boost sontroller
-KB Boost a pump
I hate putting multiple "T" or :Y" so i bout a 6 port vaccum block that im planning to install in the driver inner fender(next to the meth pump) the install will be clean and perfect.
But i cant installing it the port pointing down due to not wanting to have the lines making HUGE 90 degree or more curve in such a tight space.
So is it ok to mount it upside down(port facing upward)...see pics and tell me what you all think.
I wont be able to finalize the meth pump until im ok with the block.Since everything is in this area.
Thanks
Eric
What about a vaccum block ??? I need a port for :
-Boost gauge
-Blower blow off valve
-Progressive Boost sontroller
-KB Boost a pump
I hate putting multiple "T" or :Y" so i bout a 6 port vaccum block that im planning to install in the driver inner fender(next to the meth pump) the install will be clean and perfect.
But i cant installing it the port pointing down due to not wanting to have the lines making HUGE 90 degree or more curve in such a tight space.
So is it ok to mount it upside down(port facing upward)...see pics and tell me what you all think.
I wont be able to finalize the meth pump until im ok with the block.Since everything is in this area.
Thanks
Eric
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
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ttt
It does not make a diff's the piece cant tell the diff which way it is.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Now i gotta install this block , then the pump ,then the hotwire and BAP.
Not self tapping screw will be used, all drill and tap (#21 drill with some 10/32 screw and # 7 drill with some 1/4-20 screw.. all in stainless).
When everything will be done i will begin the blower install because for me the hardest parts have always been electrical hookup so i do it first. Blower will be a piece of cake
Last edited by always faster; 08-09-2014 at 05:59 PM.
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
Posts: 28,846
Received 1,762 Likes
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Well thats i good one but since it was specially asked for the map sensor for the boost gauge i was more worried about building anykind of condensation or humidity then make the block dizzy .
Now i gotta install this block , then the pump ,then the hotwire and BAP.
Not self tapping screw will be used, all drill and tap (#21 drill with some 10/32 screw and # 7 drill with some 1/4-20 screw.. all in stainless).
When everything will be done i will begin the blower install because for me the hardest parts have always been electrical hookup so i do it first. Blower will be a piece of cake
Now i gotta install this block , then the pump ,then the hotwire and BAP.
Not self tapping screw will be used, all drill and tap (#21 drill with some 10/32 screw and # 7 drill with some 1/4-20 screw.. all in stainless).
When everything will be done i will begin the blower install because for me the hardest parts have always been electrical hookup so i do it first. Blower will be a piece of cake
#7
Team Owner
I prefer nutserts in the heavy sheetmetal where most of this stuff is going (meth pump, aux. fp, BAP, etc.). I have been using them in most of the mounts where I've had to attach to the frame for much more secure, vibration-resistant screw attachment points with full thread engagement. If you can get a drill in there, you can get the nutsert tool in to install the nutsert.
#8
Team Owner
Not'a problem!
Just don't kink any lines that's all that really matter -
Nice vacuum block!
Thanks,Matt
Just don't kink any lines that's all that really matter -
Nice vacuum block!
Thanks,Matt
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thank you all for your input.
I ve got a truck load of pics of all the entire project ,from the forged stroker ,the tr6060,blower,dewitts kit,coilover and all the goddies, will make a full thread when everything will be done.
I ve got a truck load of pics of all the entire project ,from the forged stroker ,the tr6060,blower,dewitts kit,coilover and all the goddies, will make a full thread when everything will be done.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Small pics to show how i did mount mine but not completely done, since im stuck again and waiting help in another thread
I capped the one on the left because the blower is not in yet.I ve used two 90 degree 1/8 npt fittings to install the BAP pressure switch directly instead of using a barb then a small piece of hose then another barb.I also used a compression fitting with a 1/8 npt side to connect my boost gauge.
I capped the one on the left because the blower is not in yet.I ve used two 90 degree 1/8 npt fittings to install the BAP pressure switch directly instead of using a barb then a small piece of hose then another barb.I also used a compression fitting with a 1/8 npt side to connect my boost gauge.
#11
Team Owner
I'm in the process of adding a similar block in the same area and found I can screw my Hobbs switches in directly by skipping one port between to keep the install clean and compact. My block is configured slightly different than yuors in that the Hobbs switches will be oriented horizontally compared to yours in you pic, allowing them to be screwed directly into the block.
Nice job on yours - looks good.
Nice job on yours - looks good.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'm in the process of adding a similar block in the same area and found I can screw my Hobbs switches in directly by skipping one port between to keep the install clean and compact. My block is configured slightly different than yuors in that the Hobbs switches will be oriented horizontally compared to yours in you pic, allowing them to be screwed directly into the block.
Nice job on yours - looks good.
Nice job on yours - looks good.
I wanted a config that did not put stress on the line and prevent any kink, so i put it at around 45 degree so the port would point toward the back of the car for all the accessories and that the one for the Bloer Bov would point toward the front.
Thanks for all the help
#13
Team Owner
I changed my planned mounting location so I have more room to run lines (yellow box). This way, the Hobbs switches will be oriented vertically and the vacuum supply will be easy to pull in from the engine bay. I used a piece of AL with double stick to hold it in place to act as a strength member.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I changed my planned mounting location so I have more room to run lines (yellow box). This way, the Hobbs switches will be oriented vertically and the vacuum supply will be easy to pull in from the engine bay. I used a piece of AL with double stick to hold it in place to act as a strength member.
First your way of mounting it is very clever
Second , damn your car is so clean, mine seems to be coming from a junk yard