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Methanol seeping through windshield washer nozzles

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Old 08-01-2014, 08:36 AM
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tommypenguin
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Default Methanol seeping through windshield washer nozzles

I am running meth, boost juice blend in my car via the windshield washer tank. I noticed after driving yesterday underneath the windshield wipers there was a little amount of methanol that had leaked from I'm assuming the windshield wiper nozzles on both sides. I did not use the wipers or spray function as I avoid driving in rain at all costs. Is potentially a seal between the nozzle and line bad? I did a little research and found I could replace the nozzles, is there an included o ring? Or suggestions on what is causing the fluid to seep from the nozzles, too much pressure on the lines if I get on it? Thanks guys.
Old 08-01-2014, 09:31 AM
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Patches
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Long-time known issue - you hit WOT and the fluid seeps out of the nozzles from the washer reservoir. The fix is an in-line check valve. You can get it from Rock Auto for $6.47 + ship. AC Delco PN 22102237. The call it a fluid sensor but acts as a check valve.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=434867
Old 08-01-2014, 10:48 AM
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Thanks boss, just researched the part number and found many other threads. I will get the part ordered and installed soon.

Last edited by tommypenguin; 08-01-2014 at 11:04 AM.
Old 08-01-2014, 11:56 AM
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CamminC5
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Sweet. Didn't know there was a fix to this issue!
Old 08-01-2014, 12:15 PM
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I found a lot of threads posting about this issue, but none showing a screenshot of where to install the valve. It sounds from another thread I came across, I will be cutting into a hard line, remove a section of it, and slipping a rubber vacuum hose over the hard line and the nipples on the valve. Then zip tie the hose onto the hardlines. I just don't know where would be the best place to tap in and whether there is a specific direction the valve needs to face.
Old 08-01-2014, 01:51 PM
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95wht6spd
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So you are still using the washer sprayer on the windsheild w the boost juice?
Old 08-01-2014, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 95wht6spd
So you are still using the washer sprayer on the windsheild w the boost juice?
Shouldn't be a problem if anyone is, since WW fluid is typically a water/methanol mixture. That's in case you're asking due to any concerns.

OP,
On the Alky kit, the WW pump is removed, a new rubber grommet is installed and a block-off fitting inserted into that grommet. If you're not using the pump feature in the first place, you may as well block it off.
Old 08-01-2014, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
Shouldn't be a problem if anyone is, since WW fluid is typically a water/methanol mixture. That's in case you're asking due to any concerns.

OP,
On the Alky kit, the WW pump is removed, a new rubber grommet is installed and a block-off fitting inserted into that grommet. If you're not using the pump feature in the first place, you may as well block it off.

On my car the WW pump is still in tact and not blocked off. It was left in tact by the previous owner for functioning in the event he got caught in a storm and needed usage for visibility safety. The higher concentration of methanol versus WW fluid would eat away at any sealant/wax requiring me to reapply on the hood/fenders if I had to use the WW spray. I am going to keep this function in tact as it is a safety feature I hope not to need, but may given Colorado's crazy weather.

I went out to my car on my lunch and snapped some pics. The Alky kit is tapped into the tanks on the side bottom of the tank. The WW line is plumbed into the bottom of the tank as shown in pic one, it then runs up the driver side and is split to go to each wiper. I pulled a couple clips and snapped a pic of the the split under the cowling for reference.

I will post pictures of the valve installed after I get the part. I am planning on tapping in somewhere in the section I outlined in red for the valve if someone can confirm that is all I need to do. Thanks guys.



Old 08-01-2014, 04:20 PM
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Oh I see. I have the Alky kit like Blownblue mentioned, figured the others eliminated the washer feature too. I am w you, would think the much higher meth % would harm paint etc.
Old 08-01-2014, 10:13 PM
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Based on what I've read, the check valve nipples should be an exact fit for the WW line. In comparable cars, others install it in the location I am suggesting. I will do what I've done in the past fitting vacuum hoses on to a snug barb, stick needle nose pliers in an end and open the pliers to stretch the end, then twist onto the nipple. Hopefully I have the part next week.
Old 08-07-2014, 08:19 PM
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Got the job done yesterday and the valve has fixed the issue. To get the job done you only need 4 zip ties and a foot of 7/32 fuel/vacuum hose you can pick up at autozone and of course the valve. On the valve there is a tiny arrow pointing in the direction you need to install it. Obviously the error needs to point toward the windshield wipers.







I unbolted the windshield washer tank to get some more room to work, two 10mm bolts and lifting a couple brackets off the stud.





Attempted putting hose clamps on the stock windshield washer line, while they kept a lot of fluid from spilling out, they left creases on the hose. I am leaving the pictures in of the hose clamps on but would not recommend using them.



I recommend cutting 2, 2" pieces of hose and stuffing a needle nose plier end, into each of the 4 holes to stretch out the hose. Then cut the windshield wiper hose with scissors, not snips. Snips work well for rubber hose, not for plastic. Then twist on one of the pieces of rubber hose over the windshield wiper hose connected to the tank, then slip the other end onto the valve and connect the other piece the same way. Zip tie your connections. When you're done, your valve should look like this. I would recommend hiding the zip tie tails and lining them up unlike I did in this pic.



I spilled probably a half a cup of meth mainly down the front wheel well. Then I cleaned up the area and engine bay with CD2 engine detailer. If you spill make sure you clean up the best you can and give ample time for fluid to evaporate, in my case my car sat overnight.

Also make sure not to drop the valve, I did and had to jack up my car and remove the panel behind the front driver wheel to get it. Hope this is helpful to others.
Old 08-07-2014, 08:23 PM
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Old 08-10-2014, 10:27 AM
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Thanks for the detail.
Old 08-24-2014, 01:25 PM
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Shylor
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Why are there two different part numbers for this valve?
Old 08-26-2014, 01:54 PM
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Not sure, possibly because this part is used on other gm vehicles. The one I ordered was 24024822.
Old 08-26-2014, 06:22 PM
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I had my local dealership's part department look up part #22102237 and the said it isn't a good number, but they did have #24024822 for $12.26. I know I can get it cheaper, for I passed.

After looking up #22102237 on ebay, it appears the body of this valve is more inline with the ends. While #24024822 seems to extend 90 degrees from the ends.
Old 08-28-2014, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Shylor
I had my local dealership's part department look up part #22102237 and the said it isn't a good number, but they did have #24024822 for $12.26. I know I can get it cheaper, for I passed.

After looking up #22102237 on ebay, it appears the body of this valve is more inline with the ends. While #24024822 seems to extend 90 degrees from the ends.
Post pics of the valve after you get it. It would be more aesthetically pleasing for the valve to be in line versus the one I have.
Old 08-28-2014, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by tommypenguin
Post pics of the valve after you get it. It would be more aesthetically pleasing for the valve to be in line versus the one I have.
You can see pics of it on ebay.

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