Murder_C5

I was almost set on getting a Mantic twin, now Im not so sure.
Partially b/c of going over to the C6-FI Forum & reading some recent posts.

1st. Let me say sorry about such a long post, just thought I'd get it all out at once.
Im used to a on/off clutch, but don't want a complete on/off switch clutch in the C5.
Im usually off the pedal 1-2sec NEVER more than 3sec in my street cars.

A couple of questions about Mantic:
Is the Mantic 9000 much/or significantly lighter than stock?
Is it so light a re-tune may be needed & or cause idling issues?
Anyone having problems w/ excessive shuddering & or noise?
Longevity ????

Im wondering the same things about the Monster. or other, all input welcome.
Or other twins that will come in under @or under $1500 for every thing inc.slave & don't require shimming.

I really just need a clutch that will hold up to 700 easily (I don't plan on going north of that power level in this car) , be streetable
& I need it to be able to install w/out shims if possible (im having it done b/c I don't have a place to do the job myself this year)

Thanks for the help/input & your time reading my novel.

Mattie Num Nums

I have a Centerforce Dual DYAD. Its incredible. Will hold 1200FT/Lbs and the pedal feel is great. I daily drive my car without any issues. This is the same clutch Andy @ A&A recommends.

DOUG @ ECS

Just go with the Mantic and you will not be disappointing, the thread in the C6 section is a tuning problem 100%. I tried by phone, PM and on line to tell him how to correct it and he just gave me an attitude about it.

A stock clutch is 49 lbs, the Mantic twin is 37, lighter, but not too light that it causes issues. Like I said in that thread, I have never had to adjust a tune file from replacing the clutch, because the car was tuned correctly in the first place.

The Mantic line is the only clutch we have been using now for four years, it's the most consistent performing and well liked clutch by far we have ever used.

BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance

Same here. No tuning issues. I haven't seen that thread, but you'll find members in here with the Mantic that it was a install-and-drive situation for them. Neutron82 is one of my customers that installed his own and the only issue he had was related to the adjustment of his Tick master, which he resolved.

It's a smooth clutch. No on/off, light pedal, smooth engagement. No fuss, no muss.

Murder_C5

Thanks to all, I know there are some people that will find a problem with any clutch.
I was thinking it was just a driver issue, trying slip the clutch like crazy or a big cam idle problem.
I don't have a choppy idle & have a decent/ok tune.
I should expect no bad idle problems from the Mantic?

breecher_7

We have the mantic 9000 in Josh's car as well. Love how it drives, holds the power effortlessly and has a great pedal feel. Simple install, no shimming of the slave. Works great out of the box.

We just put another one in my friend Tony's stock engine 2003 Z06 since we had the trans out to replace the 3-4 Fork, Blocking rings, shift pads, and keys. That should be back up and running tonight if he gets off his *** and gets to work but I expect it to work flawlessly.

fisher auto

What hp range are these used for!!!

breecher_7

The Mantic?
Stock to 1000+

madmatt9471

We put the MONSTER Twin in my buddies '04 Z06, right now he is at 713 RWHP and the tune is "NOT" finished! (should be around 750+ RWHP)

He ABSOLUTELY love's it! I even drove it and wow is it smooth and easy to operate

Thanks,Matt

JoeyG

I run the McCleod RXT making 830rwhp/900rwtq and I use the stock hydraulics with no issues, aside from bleeding the lines from underhood heat. This is just one experience for the McCleod and I've been a firm user for years. However Doug and Bret are well versed in all the available options and I'd trust eithers' recommendations.

Murder_C5

I may have found a good deal on a McCleod RST, so may be going that route for now.. IF every thing works out.

Thanks for the help,input & time.

Proace4

I daily my car with a Mantic 9000 twin. Stock hydraulics, no issues at all. Keep the fluid clean and all is well. Love it's street manners and how it acts on the strip. Very straight forward install. I have almost 8k miles on mine and close to 10 track passes. No issues.

fisher auto

Well no offense to to my Monster stage 3 it is a good set up, but I'm up for something a little less on/off I've broken 2 diff's already this year, not to say the Hoosier's haven't helped. So this may be my next venture!

Socko

I did get off my *** and get the car working. The clutch is without a doubt faster to engauge then the stocker but its VERY driveable. I have stock hydrolics as well. I did shim the slave as there was about .38" of space and i had time so i shimmed it. Though i cant imagine it was necessary.

As far as idle goes, if i clutch the car from 3-4k rpm and let it drop, the ecu is definately slightly confused as the rpms go a bit too low then too high then settle. maybe 600 rpm to 900 to settle at 750 over a few seconds time. But it hasn't died yet or anything. This may have something to do with the fact that the car has a tune on it but it did not occur before the weight reduction.

For the torque its rated to hold its remarkably drivable. It feels much more "cammed" then then the stock clutch. Like the holding pressure is minimal but once you start letting it out it pushes up on your foot pretty hard. Took a day to get used to.

Also i noticed when i shut the car down the motor stops spinning faster. At high throttle the reduction in the rotating mass is clearly noticable. My car is more or less stock as i only have headers/xpipe. So easier to notice small things.

breecher_7

As far as the idle fluctuation goes I think it is important to let people know that the car does not have the stock tune in it either nor do you know who or the skill level of the person who did tune it prior to you purchasing the car.

Socko

True nuff. Didn't do that before though. The "tune" is just maf scaling and turning off rear o2's, cags, and nonsense like that.

I know the skill level of the person that tuned it. NOT TO MY STANDARDS!!!! I suspect the car runs rich, specifically at idle. So it could be some part of the rpm drop issue. But as I said, it didn't swing around as much before the weight reduction. And how it is is fine, it isnt bouncy once it settles just takes a few seconds.

One day when i didnt just drop 4k on my car, have to get Jesse to take a look at it.

breecher_7

Yeah, time to put jesse to work.

0SNL/MonsterClutchCo

Easily handled by our new LT1-S. Easy to drive, will handle that power, comes with a one year warranty, and is what GM trusted in their C7. All that and it's a little over $1000 with a flywheel, ready to rock.

Call us and we'll get you taken care of.

The clutch isn't necessarily the culprit here... that said our new LT1-S will engage less harshly and will help with drivetrain wear. Bottome line is if you're drag racing a Vette you're going to have some issues with breakage.

You're an existing/return customer which means you'll get a discount to go with that, just give us a shout and we'll get you taken care of!

Thanks for the kind words!

cgallagher04

I love my monster LT1-SC twin stage 1, it feels better and better the more I use it. Feels as close to stock as any aftermarket clutch I have ever felt, Steve was outstanding to deal with.

LedfootLarry

Was just at a 1/2 mile event yesterday, and my monster twin disc performed flawless, I beat on it with drag radials.
700+ rwhp , 660 rwtq....awesome !