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DeWitts SPAL Fans ??????

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Old 07-26-2014, 02:03 PM
  #61  
Dirty Harry
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Thanks everyone
Currently discussing the options with Matt at 21st Century Muscle Car, hope to have a remedy soon. Temps here in Dallas already hitting 100 and can't drive my car without turning the ac on and off to allow engine temps to go down. Talked with John at DeWitts and he can order me the new brush-less SPAL Fans, which are suppose to move a lot more air. Of course the problem down here is it will be moving hot air off the concrete road which is hot enough to fry an egg on , no exaggeration!
Thanks for everyone's in-put

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Last edited by Dirty Harry; 07-28-2014 at 06:27 PM.
Old 07-26-2014, 04:24 PM
  #62  
ajrothm
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I'm sub'd for your progress on the new spals..

I'm in Houston and fight the battle with water temps at idle w/AC as well.. I already have a Dewitt's radiator and dual spals and they are not cutting it... I'm curious if the new spals are THAT much better..

I know my 1993 Lincoln MKVIII fan on my 71' Vette would blow my dual spals right off the radiator.. I'm half *** tempted to see if I can fit a Lincoln fan in there... Its 18" diameter tho...
Old 07-26-2014, 10:25 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Dirty Harry
Here is my issue, I need something that will get the heat down. In winter it is no problem at all, in summer it is a real problem here in Texas and running the AC. My set up is very tight, I have the A&A Vortech V3 SI Supercharger. The inter-cooler sits up front, behind it is the trans cooler, behind it is the ac condenser and the finally the Dewitts Radiator and the GM OE factory fans. I have the DeWitts cut down version radiator that allows for the SuperCharger duct work to cross over the top but I don't have the SPAL fans. I also have an electric water pump in an effort to bring the heat down, so far nothing has worked. SPAL fans are my next move but haven't seen much posting about how much difference this makes, ie before and after fan install. My biggest problem is what all the air has to pass through before reaching the radiator and my car is very low to the ground.
Any help or positive suggestion would be appreciated.
I didn't read all the thread. That being said, I have a Ron Davis radiator with Spal fans and and external oil cooler with fan and mine always stays cool. I get Texas heat here in Missouri.
Old 07-28-2014, 06:35 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
I'm sub'd for your progress on the new spals..

I'm in Houston and fight the battle with water temps at idle w/AC as well.. I already have a Dewitt's radiator and dual spals and they are not cutting it... I'm curious if the new spals are THAT much better..

I know my 1993 Lincoln MKVIII fan on my 71' Vette would blow my dual spals right off the radiator.. I'm half *** tempted to see if I can fit a Lincoln fan in there... Its 18" diameter tho...
Ajrothm,,
Well I'm still trying to talk myself into the New Brushless SPAL fans! They are suppose to move twice as much air but then my DeWitt radiator was suppose to cool better and it provided no change at all. At approx $800 just for the fans and install kit I'm having a hard time convincing myself. I'm sure installation would cost me another 200 , however if they would do the job then I would do it in a heartbeat, if they don't then I'm out another 1,000 and even if DeWitts would take them back, I would be out the install and the reinstall of my old fans

Dirty Harry "Lee" -Torch Red 03 Supercharged
North Dallas Corvette Club
http://ndcctx.com/ [Founding Member]

Last edited by Dirty Harry; 07-28-2014 at 06:39 PM.
Old 07-28-2014, 06:40 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Shane1974
I didn't read all the thread. That being said, I have a Ron Davis radiator with Spal fans and and external oil cooler with fan and mine always stays cool. I get Texas heat here in Missouri.


Dirty Harry "Lee" -Torch Red 03 Supercharged
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http://ndcctx.com/ [Founding Member]
Old 07-29-2014, 08:13 PM
  #66  
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Default Stepping in it.

Ok so I'm not as advanced as most of you but have the same problem.

2004 C5 T6
Setup.

STS Twin Trubos
DeWitt High volume radiator
DeWitt SPAL High volume dual fans
Meziere 300 Series Electric Water Pump
SacCity fan controller
160 Degree Tstat
fan on at 200 and off at 185

Car runs at 200 or so if temps are under 90, after that things get interesting before all the adds, temps were 225+ on 95 degree days with the add of the fans/water pump/Tstat it will now stay in the 210 range on city streets with AC running and an OAT of 95 to 99.

I run the car at the track, (road and rally style) on 75 to 85 OAT days with high RPM and have found the above combination works well to keep the temps in check as well. (Manual fan controller also helps during cool down periods as it also runs the water pump as well)

In my campaign to bring down the temps the next two items on my list were going to be a remote mounted oil cooler and a louvered hood
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1997-2004.html
Need to get air not just moving through the intercooler, AC condenser, trans fluid cooler and radiator you need to get the hot air out of the engine compartment.

that is my $0.02 worth
Old 07-30-2014, 09:20 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Big_George_S
Ok so I'm not as advanced as most of you but have the same problem.

2004 C5 T6
Setup.

STS Twin Trubos
DeWitt High volume radiator
DeWitt SPAL High volume dual fans
Meziere 300 Series Electric Water Pump
SacCity fan controller
160 Degree Tstat
fan on at 200 and off at 185

Car runs at 200 or so if temps are under 90, after that things get interesting before all the adds, temps were 225+ on 95 degree days with the add of the fans/water pump/Tstat it will now stay in the 210 range on city streets with AC running and an OAT of 95 to 99.

I run the car at the track, (road and rally style) on 75 to 85 OAT days with high RPM and have found the above combination works well to keep the temps in check as well. (Manual fan controller also helps during cool down periods as it also runs the water pump as well)

In my campaign to bring down the temps the next two items on my list were going to be a remote mounted oil cooler and a louvered hood
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1997-2004.html
Need to get air not just moving through the intercooler, AC condenser, trans fluid cooler and radiator you need to get the hot air out of the engine compartment.

that is my $0.02 worth
Big George, that is great advice and a new hood is another option I'm looking at. I have noticed that some of these hoods flex upwards really bad at high speeds so I want to be sure I don't end up with that issue What hood do you have and have you ever seen pictures of your car at high speeds to see if it is flexing and bowing up in the center?

Dirty Harry "Lee" -Torch Red 03 Supercharged
North Dallas Corvette Club
http://ndcctx.com/ [Founding Member]
Old 07-30-2014, 10:35 AM
  #68  
Big_George_S
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Originally Posted by Dirty Harry
Big George, that is great advice and a new hood is another option I'm looking at. I have noticed that some of these hoods flex upwards really bad at high speeds so I want to be sure I don't end up with that issue What hood do you have and have you ever seen pictures of your car at high speeds to see if it is flexing and bowing up in the center?

Dirty Harry "Lee" -Torch Red 03 Supercharged
North Dallas Corvette Club
http://ndcctx.com/ [Founding Member]
Sorry No high speed pictures. I still have the stock hood so no air scoop. For now I'm good, the car is a street driver so I don't want to over modify if I can help it. If I was doing a track car only though I'd be cutting holes in hoods and getting more air moving in the engine compartment.
Old 07-30-2014, 01:31 PM
  #69  
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Why not run meth?
Old 07-30-2014, 08:58 PM
  #70  
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what does that have to do with his car running hot
Old 07-31-2014, 12:54 AM
  #71  
Patches
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Default Got a set

Not being one to pass up an opportunity to stack the deck in my favor, I contacted DeWitts a couple of weeks ago about a set of these and John Dingman put these together for me. They arrived here today.

The housings are just over 12" in diameter and 3-1/8" deep. The assembly weighs close to the stock setup, maybe a bit less. The harness is the usual DeWitts high quality and the instructions he included are straightforward even though he said they might be a bit crude. You can see the independent temp sensor with the harness. The schematic shows an optional manual switch wired to an ignition source which I may do. Btw, this is the version to match the cut-down DeWitts rad I have ready to go in.

Unfortunately, it may be a while before I can get these in. If you look at my build thread in here you'll know why. In the meantime, I will try and hook them up to power just to see how hard they blow. Of course, I don't have my stock fans sitting around to compare them to since I sold those long ago.

Expensive? Yes.

Cool? Absolutely.

Brace yourselves . . .













Old 07-31-2014, 01:57 AM
  #72  
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Damn that's a thick bitch!

No way is that gonna clear my blower outlet/coupler... I had to trim up my current Spal fan on the right to BARELY clear the blower...

No way the new thick Spal fan will clear a 3" blower outlet...


Keep us posted on how well they cool.


So I assume you can't use the ECU to trigger the relay to activate the fan? I don't have a problem using an external temp switch but then you also have to wire the relay to the AC compressor so the fans will run with the ac...
Old 07-31-2014, 07:12 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Patches
Not being one to pass up an opportunity to stack the deck in my favor, I contacted DeWitts a couple of weeks ago about a set of these and John Dingman put these together for me. They arrived here today.

The housings are just over 12" in diameter and 3-1/8" deep. The assembly weighs close to the stock setup, maybe a bit less. The harness is the usual DeWitts high quality and the instructions he included are straightforward even though he said they might be a bit crude. You can see the independent temp sensor with the harness. The schematic shows an optional manual switch wired to an ignition source which I may do. Btw, this is the version to match the cut-down DeWitts rad I have ready to go in.

Unfortunately, it may be a while before I can get these in. If you look at my build thread in here you'll know why. In the meantime, I will try and hook them up to power just to see how hard they blow. Of course, I don't have my stock fans sitting around to compare them to since I sold those long ago.

Expensive? Yes.

Cool? Absolutely.

Brace yourselves . . .













Patches,

Is this for your C5?

What is the price tag? (PM is fine )

Thanks,Matt
Old 07-31-2014, 09:24 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
Damn that's a thick bitch!

No way is that gonna clear my blower outlet/coupler... I had to trim up my current Spal fan on the right to BARELY clear the blower...

No way the new thick Spal fan will clear a 3" blower outlet...


Keep us posted on how well they cool.


So I assume you can't use the ECU to trigger the relay to activate the fan? I don't have a problem using an external temp switch but then you also have to wire the relay to the AC compressor so the fans will run with the ac...
I may need to move the radiator perches and crossbar forward to get the clearance needed. You can't use the ECU to trigger them since they key off the temp sensor. I still need to talk to John about how they account for the A/C compressor mode - it may require more back and forth with him to get this to function the way we would like but I have time for that since I'm not there yet.
Old 07-31-2014, 10:19 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Patches
I still need to talk to John about how they account for the A/C compressor mode
I don't like having to run the fans just because the AC is on. When you are on the highway you might want AC but may not need fans.
Old 07-31-2014, 10:55 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
I don't like having to run the fans just because the AC is on. When you are on the highway you might want AC but may not need fans.
So, are you suggesting the manual switch be used to determine when they come on if the sensor isn't kicking them on? Is the sensor function appropriate fro normmal street use?
Old 07-31-2014, 06:24 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Patches
So, are you suggesting the manual switch be used to determine when they come on if the sensor isn't kicking them on? Is the sensor function appropriate fro normmal street use?
You could wire up the override switch for insurance but with the fans on at 215 and off at 195 I hardly see when you would want to intervene.

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Old 08-01-2014, 09:35 AM
  #78  
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Tom, I'd like to wire it in with as close to stock behavior as possible. I think that may be the majority expectation since they are not PnP. This would require the fans to energize with the compressor.
Old 08-04-2014, 08:05 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Patches
Not being one to pass up an opportunity to stack the deck in my favor, I contacted DeWitts a couple of weeks ago about a set of these and John Dingman put these together for me. They arrived here today.

The housings are just over 12" in diameter and 3-1/8" deep. The assembly weighs close to the stock setup, maybe a bit less. The harness is the usual DeWitts high quality and the instructions he included are straightforward even though he said they might be a bit crude. You can see the independent temp sensor with the harness. The schematic shows an optional manual switch wired to an ignition source which I may do. Btw, this is the version to match the cut-down DeWitts rad I have ready to go in.

Unfortunately, it may be a while before I can get these in. If you look at my build thread in here you'll know why. In the meantime, I will try and hook them up to power just to see how hard they blow. Of course, I don't have my stock fans sitting around to compare them to since I sold those long ago.

Expensive? Yes.

Cool? Absolutely.

Brace yourselves . . .













Originally Posted by ajrothm
Damn that's a thick bitch!

No way is that gonna clear my blower outlet/coupler... I had to trim up my current Spal fan on the right to BARELY clear the blower...

No way the new thick Spal fan will clear a 3" blower outlet...


Keep us posted on how well they cool.


So I assume you can't use the ECU to trigger the relay to activate the fan? I don't have a problem using an external temp switch but then you also have to wire the relay to the AC compressor so the fans will run with the ac...
Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
I don't like having to run the fans just because the AC is on. When you are on the highway you might want AC but may not need fans.
What is the depth of the fans from the bracket where they mount to the rear of the fan? It doesn't look like I will have room for them in my set up! The right one appears to be dropped down but I'm not sure it will clear my Super Charger. They are thick looking in these pictures. Also I want my fans coming on much earlier than 219, is that a set point or is it adjustable? I would rather see 200 on and off at 185 ? Tom or Patches?

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Old 08-04-2014, 09:41 AM
  #80  
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Fans are 3-1/8" deep so will definitely require some reconfiguring of the mounting setup. The right fan will be higher up when mounted so this will make it even more difficult to clear, regardless of the clocking on the centri. I plan on taking the rad mount which I've already modified once by dropping the pedestals, cutting the cross bar and rewelding it 2-3" forward to try and compensate for the fan depth.

As far as temp set points, I haven't had a chance to look into the controls on thes to see if they're programmable. I would imagine that since they are set at specific set points, they can be shifted up or down. I'll try and get an answer to this.


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