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DeWitts SPAL Fans ??????

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Old 07-09-2014, 10:32 AM
  #41  
robert miller
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Originally Posted by madmatt9471
I "WILL" disagree with the EWP from MEZIERE and the assumption they do not work at speed!

Mine is proof they do and always do, at a constant 55 GPM where can it go wrong -

Most people who track go to one of the Hi-Performance standard WP (can't remember the make name, sorry - it's at the top of my head and I just can't remember the name )

Either way the 55GPM EWP is good at speed and I have a full DEWITTS radiator and stock fans and during our Hi-Desert heat it works great.

Thanks,Matt
I went with the Meziere elec water pump on the last build. But put a evan's man water pump on the old build I had in the car. But the evan's pump is not cheap at all over 500.00. But it does work the best for a man water pump.
Old 07-10-2014, 02:24 PM
  #42  
Dirty Harry
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Originally Posted by robert miller
I went with the Meziere elec water pump on the last build. But put a evan's man water pump on the old build I had in the car. But the evan's pump is not cheap at all over 500.00. But it does work the best for a man water pump.
Good info Thanks
Old 07-10-2014, 03:07 PM
  #43  
flash of red
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Check out this thread from ECS on the c6 fi section. Doug suggest the OEM wiring and grounding for the fans diminishes the fan output to cause many vettes to have heat issues even with dewitts radiators and spal fans.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...t-run-hot.html
Old 07-10-2014, 09:23 PM
  #44  
c5mtl
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Originally Posted by flash of red
Check out this thread from ECS on the c6 fi section. Doug suggest the OEM wiring and grounding for the fans diminishes the fan output to cause many vettes to have heat issues even with dewitts radiators and spal fans.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...t-run-hot.html
Never got an answer if that was a c6 only problem ...I changed the plug heads on my spal setup ...wire looked okay
Old 07-11-2014, 07:56 AM
  #45  
Dirty Harry
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Originally Posted by flash of red
Check out this thread from ECS on the c6 fi section. Doug suggest the OEM wiring and grounding for the fans diminishes the fan output to cause many vettes to have heat issues even with dewitts radiators and spal fans.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...t-run-hot.html
WOW! Such a simple fix! I will get with my Tech and see if he can do that right away I know I need more air flow so this might just do it Thank you for finding that and pointing us to the link in the C6 section
Old 07-11-2014, 12:48 PM
  #46  
5 Liter Eater
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I don't think this applies to y'all. C5 fans are not pulsewidth modulated.
Old 07-13-2014, 09:32 AM
  #47  
Chicago1
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How about this to control the fans...http://www.saccitycorvette.com/COOLITv2.html
Old 07-13-2014, 10:17 AM
  #48  
4DRUSH
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Originally Posted by Captain Tom
I've seen a kit that enables you to manually or automatically control the fans..I think that's my next step
My Spal fans are powered by aftermarket 40 amp relays, 10 gauge feed & ground wires, controlled by the ECU.

When they're on, they kick ***, unlike what I remember powered by stock wiring.

Maybe someone should do a rpm test hooking them up straight to the battery vs stock wiring.

Maybe the Spal fans require more juice to operate full speed?

If so, you could use the stock wiring to control relays that could provide the extra power needed.
Old 07-14-2014, 09:43 PM
  #49  
Dirty Harry
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
I don't think this applies to y'all. C5 fans are not pulsewidth modulated.
Awee man, don't bust my bubble like that

Originally Posted by Chicago1
How about this to control the fans...http://www.saccitycorvette.com/COOLITv2.html
Interesting , I will have to get over and sit down with 21st Century and figure out the best route to take.

Originally Posted by 4DRUSH
My Spal fans are powered by aftermarket 40 amp relays, 10 gauge feed & ground wires, controlled by the ECU.

When they're on, they kick ***, unlike what I remember powered by stock wiring.

Maybe someone should do a rpm test hooking them up straight to the battery vs stock wiring.

Maybe the Spal fans require more juice to operate full speed?

If so, you could use the stock wiring to control relays that could provide the extra power needed.
I will look into this also, Thanks
Old 07-17-2014, 01:33 AM
  #50  
c5mtl
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Originally Posted by 4DRUSH
My Spal fans are powered by aftermarket 40 amp relays, 10 gauge feed & ground wires, controlled by the ECU.

When they're on, they kick ***, unlike what I remember powered by stock wiring.

Maybe someone should do a rpm test hooking them up straight to the battery vs stock wiring.

Maybe the Spal fans require more juice to operate full speed?

If so, you could use the stock wiring to control relays that could provide the extra power needed.
Just tried it...I put one fan on direct power and listened to the fan and then I commanded it to turn on using hp tuners.....sounded pretty much the same...not very scientific but I'm sure it's close. I do have upgraded connectors on my twin spal setup
Old 07-18-2014, 07:53 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by c5mtl
Just tried it...I put one fan on direct power and listened to the fan and then I commanded it to turn on using hp tuners.....sounded pretty much the same...not very scientific but I'm sure it's close. I do have upgraded connectors on my twin spal setup
Just our luck
Old 07-18-2014, 12:17 PM
  #52  
GOTHAM VETTE
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What's your email address? I'll send you pics of my setup which I'm sure will get your temps lower.
Old 07-18-2014, 12:30 PM
  #53  
c5mtl
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Originally Posted by GOTHAM VETTE
What's your email address? I'll send you pics of my setup which I'm sure will get your temps lower.
Louis@zonemobile.ca
Old 07-18-2014, 03:11 PM
  #54  
4DRUSH
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Originally Posted by GOTHAM VETTE
What's your email address? I'll send you pics of my setup which I'm sure will get your temps lower.
Top secret stuff ? or you don't know how to post pics ?
Old 07-19-2014, 10:31 AM
  #55  
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I so rarely post pics I always forget how, and what my photobucket password is.

I don't care if they're shared.
Old 07-22-2014, 12:02 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
A couple more weeks
Old 07-22-2014, 06:35 AM
  #57  
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Have u thought about running a push style spal in the front and move the tranny cooler to another location ,I know people who use the 55gpm ewp & they come with a 2 yr warramty with them, this os my cure for the summer heat in boost & I run 2 pull spals & a cut down rad too ,who the hell road races there c5 & run speeds of 100mph + for 5 to 7 hours a day ? So this is why road racers use mechanical pumps ? My *** ,get the meziere 55 GPM Robert 2spal fans & call it a day the only time I see these cars get hot is because there sitting At red light or hot lapping @ the drag strip if your running down the highway @80 mph these cars have a tendency to stay cool anyhow

Last edited by fsuforever; 07-22-2014 at 06:36 PM.

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Old 07-23-2014, 12:12 PM
  #58  
GOTHAM VETTE
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Here's my setup. With it, I don't even reach operating temp when driving on the highway.

- Opened up the front license plate area.
- removed the fog light shrouds
- modded the factory bumper
- modified the front frame section (the upper portion has been reinforced to make up for the loss of strength from cutting, not just boxed in)
- removed the rad shroud (my heat issues were on track, not stop and go traffic, so I was more concerned with airflow at speed)
- Dewitts rad
- 160 degree stat
- factory water pump
- Spal fan
- Setrab oil cooler
- Straight distilled water, with water wetter.
- ACP hood
- Jet hot coated headers

When everything's installed I have metal ducting that closes up the front openings so that the air is forced through the rad.





My Intercooler isn't installed in this pic, it's an ECS one, and sits front of both of these.




Last edited by GOTHAM VETTE; 07-23-2014 at 12:45 PM.
Old 07-23-2014, 10:36 PM
  #59  
4DRUSH
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Originally Posted by GOTHAM VETTE

I like, good idea
Old 07-23-2014, 11:06 PM
  #60  
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so you have the cut down radiator and it has an integrated cooler so you have considerably cut down the capacity to begin with... I would try the fans first and have your tuner check the settings and if that doesn't fix it then you might consider getting the full size dewitts and either lowering your cradle or having the cross bar cut and rewelded to move the mounting points of the radiator down so your inlet will clear... I have a full size dewitts/spal setup, big ecs intercooler, 180 stat and it's mixed equally with dex/distilled water... I don't drive where I sit in traffic much but I have yet to see it over 200 when sitting at a light and when cruising it's usually 185-195... highest I've seen it was about 210-215 after a few back to back hard runs on the highway


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