Blow Torch

I know this is one beat down subject, ,but what the heck?
I am posting here, because the oil recommended was because I'm running a blown set up.
I have spoken with several builders over the years, and in discussions of additives, etc, asked them their opinions of how to protect an engine. EVERY ONE said, there is nothing better for an engine than to use synthetic oil. After pulling the heads off of 3 cars that ran synthetic and tearing down one engine, I can say I was amazed at how good they looked compared to old small blocks with convent oil. ADD to that the fact that synthetic creates such obviously low friction, that you can't even use it to break and engine in with it, because the metal won't "wear"
Now; I am being told by the builder to NOT use my beloved Mobil 1 10-30, but instead, use Rotella 15-40 convent oil. :*****
1. I don't want to run thick oil.
2. I LOVE my synthetic oil

What are you guys running?

regorih

5w35 straight engine oil from Wal-Mart, for two-years.

robert miller

AMSOIL here 20 50. with f1x 427 RHS 427 set up. Oil pressure 60psi plus at start up gets warm at red light will go down to 40 plus psi.

alans02z

Valvoline VR1 10w30, but im a stock bottom LS6. I get a good deal on it and I dont need synthetic due to my oil change habits. But whatever you do, ditch Mobile and run what your engine builder suggests.

PEETYZ

Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W-40 is what i'm going to run next. Lots of good reviews across the board in a wide range of FI cars. $22 for 4 qt jug at local Walmart.

I have been running High Mile M1 5W-30 because it has a better additive pack than standard and it's slightly thicker than reg 5w-30 with great reviews as well. Had great luck just gonna switch it up.

I always run synthetic and change around 5k intervals.

EBM_Z06

Mobil 1 5W-50

JDS99

Are you sure the builder isn't just recommending that he doesn't want you to use synthetic for the first oil change or 2?

If the builder has set it up for a heavy oil (bearing clearances) then I would stick with oil weights he is recommending.

I would never not eventually switch to back to synthetic personally.. Much better molecular bond, and better lube film which is what you want to prevent metal/metal contact.

Blow Torch

Is your power adder oil fed from the motor or internally? I recommend using Rotella 15-40W with the power adders on the car and staying away from the Mobile 1, The Mobile 1 is really a poor motor oil for a boosted LS based car. You need more viscosity and more conventional oil molecule.

I told him I had changed my oil at 30 miles, 150 miles, and at 500miles (Val 20-50) I then told him I had about 600 miles, and wanted to know if I could go with my mobile 1 at 1500 miles.

I definitely told him when he built it I wasn't building a race car so I wanted everything tight and I would take as long as needed to break it in, so I hope he didn't

Did a search and see a lot of opinions, but just didn't see too much on the Rotella oil.

BLOWNBLUEZ06

While I might disagree about the viscosity comment, I can say that the flashpoint of synthetics is significantly lower than conventional. Why would that matter? Detonation caused from residual product in the cylinders.

Came from Halston @ Hsquaredracing engines. Where did he get it? From one of the engineers at Joe Gibbs racing oil.

Rotella isn't what it used to be. The EPA has forced them (along with all the others) to cut down on the additives in over the counter oil. If you care, you might consider conventional oil from Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs or someone that sells an oil that caters to your engine and not the EPA. Be careful what oil you buy. Don't just buy racing oil because you have a powerful engine. Many (if not most) racing oils lack the detergents needed to help keep your oil clean from the shorter drives that you make.

PEETYZ

If you ever visit the Bob is the oil guy forum you will find yourself there for hours. So much info. A lot is honestly not needed but they do have some pretty cool oil break down analysis etc.

Here is a good read from LG:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-oil-tech.html

madmatt9471

Mobil1 10W-40 here for long time!

Thanks,Matt

Blow Torch

Bret, Peethyz

What oil are you guys running?

I know the way the engine is built and what you use the car for is a KEY factor. The fact that I do 95% cruising, and usually just hammer on the car when I'm taking friends out for a ride or just playing around, I don't need the same oil as guys that go to the track every weekend.

Going to read more of the LG article

madmatt9471

I don't track my Vette and rarely drag race it - been a long time!

I do however do the same thing you do and just open it up every so often!

Synthetic oil is really one of the best for a motor.

Thanks,Matt

inspector12

Man there is a bunch of opinions and I've talked to the guys at RP and Joe Gibbs. I just tell ppl to use what they want, but the reason for the Rotela push is the EPA couldn't pull all the Zinc and Phosphorus out of the Diesel oils because of ther sever duty and turbos etc... So it was inexpensive way to get some of those additive. You just have to becareful when doing that as there are some new oils the say LE diesel oil. Those have a lot lower additives. LE-low emission or Light duty equipment not industrial etc... Now like others mentioned when you driving around normally just about any decent oil will work, but under a sever load of some FI cars, not so much. But if you don't run your car hard you probably won't have any issues. Synthetics are better about breaking down for sure and so there life span is better. But as fuel from blow by under boosted passes gets in there it will break down easier just like conventional oil. Also the conventional oils of today are way better than those used 30yrs ago also. I use Rotela with STP with good luck and 5-40 Mobil one diesel oil with STP motor looked new on this also, and Valvoline racing 10-40 and 20-50 with STP. Motor looked good after this as well. I'm probably a little harder than most on my car, but not crazy beating on it all the time. I usually change oil frequently usually 3-4k and depending on the smell of it. If it smells strong smell of gas I change it also taking in account of the kind of miles I just put on it. Lots of cruising or beating etc... GL! Only going to tell you what I've learned through talking with others, and experience with my own cars. I do stay away from any of the standard Mobil ones, and check the API ratings online so you have an idea what it's rated for.

a/c man

Valvoline VR1 40w

ONE BMF

This is an excellent review using a simple test to measure at what psi does an oils film shear or breakdown. I use Royal Purple HPS now and have used RP for as long as i can remember and have never suffered an oil related failure. You could just guess your using a better oil like most people do,,, but i like a little science behind my choice.RP is the **** ! http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

PEETYZ

Mobil 1 High Mile 5w-30 with no issues I bet the 10w-40 High mile would be another good option.

Mobil even rates the High Mile and extended formula for boosted applications:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf


Switching to Rotella T6 5w-40 Synthetic

I also read that overall the diesel oils are meant for more extreme conditions with more detergents that break down less than standard oils. Sythetic is better all around. Blow by etc breaks them down much faster and a diesel oil is better at handling it. They usually recommend 15,000+ mile changes in a Diesel with it so i'm sure changing it in 5,000-7,500 miles would not be an issue and its pretty cheap $22 for 4 qt jug at Walmart. Some have even used Rotella in bikes with wet clutches etc which requires a heady duty oil in itself.

Everyone has their own preference. I would personally just stay away from standard M1 these days as it appears to be more "watered down" than most

Blow Torch

The Rotella T6 sounds good, except for the large range (5-40) Wish they had a 15-40 in the synthetic. Doesn't get too cold in GA.

Where do they list the zinc content on these oils? Is there something on the bottles? (Ive never looked)

slow ride

Lots of Audi s4 guys (2.7 twin turbo) have blackstone labs test reports ran on t6 and seen zinc levels range from 900-1100 ppm. Wear is usually indicated very low and these guys are pushing the oil to 8-9k miles. The 2.7t is a flat tappet/bucket type overhead cam engine that has had quite a few exhaust cams get wiped out over time, and being a journal bearing turbo the zinc helps the thrust also. I've been running t6 in my vette, audi, motorcycle, etc since around 2006 (was called rotella t back then) or so. Audi has 140k on the stock engine and turbos. The oil really cleans up the crankcase also so no yellow varnish left over. I've seen oil temps as high as 304 in my Z on the road course (not that I would push it to that point often) and no engine problems, etc.

I have yet to see an Audi s4 wipe a cam out on t6, but a few had run 0w40 mobile even though the history of the engine is not always known. I ran 0w40 Mobile before running T6 in the vette and audi with no issues, but it does leave quite a bit more varnish inside the engine. Not really saying its the best oil out there but it is decent for the price and availability.

directnosfogger

you guys see this yet?

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/l...tic-5w-30html/