RickClarke23

I daily Drive my A&A 8Rib 2.75 Pullied Ysi Car. I run 20psi with the Filter on and make 880 and then take the filter off for 25psi and 1004Rwhp. Its an 8 Rib with Direct Drive and I have no problems with slip. I have over a dozen logs showing the same thing. I have put ALOT of miles on this setup (58 miles a day and at least 1 rip everday) and couldn't be happier!

69ls6

Very few runs there car like I do..Blower speed,hp and just abuse...I did fight belt slip for a while..Auto car should have no problem slipping a belt..I have made 1006rwhp and then it spun on dyno at 5600..I have seen 32psi on my setup...

KS Rebuilder

When first building my car I purchased a laser alignment tool. I had an old style A&A bracket and Andy set up the 8 rib for me. Everything aligned except the alternator, it was pointing a really weird direction. I had to grind some off of one side of the alternator and washer up the other side to get it to align. It's all different now with a new style A&A bracket and an accessory drive with a 300 amp alternator. When I checked it everything lined up perfect and the belts are easy to change if needed.

Ksths2

I was emailing back and forth to Josh @ A&A about the 10 rib and he said I have to cut off the steering rack tabs and move the rack forward to clear the pulley, does anyone have any info on this or any other mods that I'll have to do to make the 10 rib secondary drive work?

Hey RickClarke23, what do you mean by "direct drive"?? when you say that i'm thinking no belt and the SC is mounted to the front of the crank pulley?

Unreal

Direct drive is a setup sold by cartek that drives the alternator/PS off a separate belt and the blower off its own belt. Great setup and really helps with belt issues/slip.

breecher_7

This is not 100% accurate. The 10 Rib WILL fit without cutting the tabs and relocating the rack forward .330" BUT you will have one hell of a time changing the belt as there will be nearly zero space between the balancer and rack.

I actually make a kit to relocate your rack if you are in need. Comes with new steel ears, .330" spacers, and hardware.

You simply cut off the aluminum forward ears, line up the new brackets, drill your frame and bolt them on.

Ksths2

hmm interesting Breecher, when you say drill your frame i'm assuming you mean drill the aluminum cradle? If so I'm following what you're saying

breecher_7

Yup.. Basically the distance from the backside of the most forward set of ears to the flush front of the aluminum cradle is .330". You cut off the forward ears and bolt new steel ears to the front of the cradle. You then put the rack into position and place the .330" spacers on the back side of the rack against the remaining aluminum ears. This moves the rack forward .330" allows you enough clearance to change belts without to much fighting.

StealthFRC

I have 10 rib. I did the rack relocation with a kit like breechers works good, even with the rack relocated its a PITA to get the belt between the balancer and rack but it can be done.
The only problem I've had with 10 rib is finding a belt in the length u need

4DRUSH

Not if you go with the ECS bracket which accommodates a 51" 10 rib belt

StealthFRC

I have a ecs bracket. 3.195 blower and 15% od crank

helga203

That 15%IW is screwing you up with belt length. I believe most run the 10%.
Juist curious why you went with the 15%?????

StealthFRC

I got it thinking it would allow me to run a larger blower pulley but still make the same boost as a smaller pulley with a 10% of crank, which in turn would reduce the chance of slip.

4DRUSH

Which is a great idea, but... chances are you need a modified bracket

(just the part that bolts to the motor)

StealthFRC

which part? i got the ecs bracket straight from them with there 10 rib kit. nothing worked right but i got it to work. the only thing i didn't do is use a smaller water pump pulley but i don't think that was a mandatory part?

they also knew i was using the 15% crank pulley and made any modifications they needed to. i remember them saying something about this but not sure what it was.

MVP'S ZO6

Only way to fix belt issues is to laser align everything. Anything else is shooting in the dark. It's possible that tensioner deflection is causing belt walk.

I know I had a Situation where I didn't have any belt issues and was running the same exact 10 and ysi combo that ive had. Anyway it got disassembled and reassembled and had issues. Could have been a different spacer put in during reassembly, I don't know. Anyway throwing a calibrated laser on the pulleys is the only way to go.

When and if you do it shoot from the crank pulley to idler idler to crank and blower to crank and crank to blower. You shoot both ways because if there is a pitch issue (as it suggest in brets thread axial alignment is the most common problem) pitch issues will show up when shooting from one direction to the other. I.e. The pulley will be off by two different amounts.

Read Brets sticky thread on pulley alignment.