Patches

Made by DSS and sold by RPM and others:

http://rpmtransmissions.com/newproducts.html

http://www.c5racer.com/catalog/c5-c6...FYtDMgod-BEA6A

http://www.floridaspeedandpower.com/...5-c6-corvette/

Here's a thread on both the DSS and Prothane versions:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-couplers.html

StealthFRC

Dss couplers here, no issues so far.

breecher_7

If people are interested in Billet ones I can make them and I can probably do it cheaper than you can buy them anywhere online...

Horps27

I see the DSS ones are for 12mm bolts, i have a 98, doesn't it use 10mm bolts?

breecher_7

Yes, just drill it out and re tap it 12mm.

JDS99

Please don't do this unless it's professionally done to ensure it's drilled and threaded straight, and accurately located. Even then, I still would advise against it. For the money, you could just covert to 12mm tube assembly. Drill and tap the threads far enough out of tolerance and you'll be primarily loading one fastener over the next.

Not to mention you can't use a 12mm coupler in a 10mm tube assembly, they are different thicknesses and the assembled length will be wrong.

Patches

I have a 12 mm drive shaft with just 7700 miles on it I would be willing to sell. It comes off of this assembly from my 2002 coupe.

slow ride

[QUOTE=JDS99;


Not to mention you can't use a 12mm coupler in a 10mm tube assembly, they are different thicknesses and the assembled length will be wrong.[/QUOTE]

What he said. Thickness is different. I did notice that using 2 zr1 couplers and a 12mm driveshaft make up the length difference to fit into a 10mm housing. Good for a spare I guess or slight upgrade over a standard 12mm.

Even stock 10mm bolt versions can take a beating if its a GM one or equivalent quality. It all depends on driving style, tracking, etc. all play a role in that will work for you. I've seen cheaper aftermarket couplers rub the tube from flexing to much. I think you can get GM ones for a little over $100 each.

JDS99

My first set of 10mm DSS poly couplers rubbed the inside of the housing BAD under load. They ended up sending me a new set under warranty.

My last set of 12mm DSS poly couplers had some very small rub spots when using the stock driveshaft. I think the stock shaft flexed enough under boosted 402ci loads. Hopefully no longer with the 3.5" DSS shaft in there now. Time will tell.

Patches

The rubbing due to whip is one of the reasons I went with a cf shaft.

WIKU

Can u please explain to me how they were able to do that. Zr1 are different sizes, I was told.
Maybe I was misinformed.


I have mine apart now, and looking to upgrade. Let me know what parts are necessary. Thanks

Patches

I'd like to know as well. I would guess that they machined the shaft ends to accomodate the thicker couplings if the ZR1's are thicker. Course, that would weaken the shaft ends slightly. Anyway, would be great to know what was done.

slow ride

The difference in size is just thickness from a 12mm stock vs a 12mm zr1. So they order a driveshaft just a little bit shorter to make the zr1 couplers fit.

WIKU

Just talked to rpm. They machine both ends of drive shaft, and the two flanges down.

Can u say MISSION!!!!

They Told me just do poly set up. .
Or second option is use the stock couplers and take it apart everytime it starts to crap out

Patches

So far, I'm doing poly/solid with the LG cf shaft.

Horps27

Best options for the smaller/older tube on my 98?

blm1171

I went billet on both with auto.

morris

Yea but how do you know when it starts to crapout?

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

This is how I could tell if they were going bad...

Generally there is a vibration that will start to occur in the driveline (at least with a stock driveshaft).

If a coupler is going bad, or a driveshaft is starting to bend...generally there is going to be a vibration and this is going to get worse with RPM. On a manual trans car this is pretty easy to test. With the car running, and in neutral (foot off the clutch) bring the RPM's up to say 3000 rpm, then 4000 rpm and if you feel a vibration push your foot down on the clutch. If the vibration goes away, then more than likely something is going on with the driveshaft.

Now that isn't to say it is a coupler going bad, or a bend in the driveshaft or something else...but at least it is going to point to the fact you better get the torque tube apart and check it.

morris

That's good to know at least I have something to look for. When mine went I was on the track and had been downshifting pretty hard most of the day, I could have caused the problem and had it go catastrophic all in that one track day which would explain why I didn't see any of the symptoms you outlined. Next time I pull the drive line out the sold ones are going in for sure.