My NOS Install Is Now Complete!!!! (big picture warning)
#1
Racer
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My NOS Install Is Now Complete!!!! (big picture warning)
My nitrous system is now installed! WOOHOO!!! (big thanks to my brother for his help). It's an NOS 5177 dry kit.
Features:
- 10# bottle
- Jetting up to 125HP
- 2 nitrous solenoid valves
- Remote bottle opener
- Fuel pressure switch
- Electronic throttle position switch
- Wide open throttle switch (micro switch mounted near gas pedal linkage, only spays at physical WOT)
- RPM window switch
- 1st and 6th gear inhibit switches (2 NC micro switches near the base of the shifter (under the boot) so it won't spray in 1st or 6th)
- NGK-TR6 spark plugs (gapped at 0.040)
- Logic tester w/ DB9 ext. cable (I made this for testing and troubleshooting)
Now all I need to do is get my bottle filled.
[Modified by JohnGlenn, 7:37 AM 7/15/2002]
Features:
- 10# bottle
- Jetting up to 125HP
- 2 nitrous solenoid valves
- Remote bottle opener
- Fuel pressure switch
- Electronic throttle position switch
- Wide open throttle switch (micro switch mounted near gas pedal linkage, only spays at physical WOT)
- RPM window switch
- 1st and 6th gear inhibit switches (2 NC micro switches near the base of the shifter (under the boot) so it won't spray in 1st or 6th)
- NGK-TR6 spark plugs (gapped at 0.040)
- Logic tester w/ DB9 ext. cable (I made this for testing and troubleshooting)
Now all I need to do is get my bottle filled.
[Modified by JohnGlenn, 7:37 AM 7/15/2002]
#4
Racer
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Re: My NOS Install Is Now Complete!!!! (Buckmaster)
NOS:
Thanks
Air Filter:
Good Question. At first I cut a square hole in my stock airbox lid and installed a K&N air filter. Later I figured if I just put the filter in it's frame and left the airbox lid off it could breathe even better. I wanted to be able to remove the filter w/o tools, and get multi-point pressure contacts around the perimeter of the frame which holds in the filter for a good seal.
The 4 bungees are arranged in a radial pattern (giving 8 perimeter holding pressure points) and safety wired together at the intersection point in the middle of the filter frame. All of them would have to break in order for any of them to fly off.
It started out as a 'No-Cost Mod' test and I just left it in. I know a Donaldson would look better, but I'm okay with this for now. And it was free.
Thanks
Air Filter:
Good Question. At first I cut a square hole in my stock airbox lid and installed a K&N air filter. Later I figured if I just put the filter in it's frame and left the airbox lid off it could breathe even better. I wanted to be able to remove the filter w/o tools, and get multi-point pressure contacts around the perimeter of the frame which holds in the filter for a good seal.
The 4 bungees are arranged in a radial pattern (giving 8 perimeter holding pressure points) and safety wired together at the intersection point in the middle of the filter frame. All of them would have to break in order for any of them to fly off.
It started out as a 'No-Cost Mod' test and I just left it in. I know a Donaldson would look better, but I'm okay with this for now. And it was free.
#5
Le Mans Master
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Re: My NOS Install Is Now Complete!!!! (JohnGlenn)
that is a nice looking setup!!! :D
What is tha tlogic tester?? Can you tell us more about what it does and such??
thanks
What is tha tlogic tester?? Can you tell us more about what it does and such??
thanks
#7
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Re: My NOS Install Is Now Complete!!!! (intel55)
The logic tester is a small plastic box with 5 LEDs, resistors, and female DB9 connector. It's Velcroed to the control panel and has about 7ft of cable so me or a passenger can hold it in the front seats. It's not intended for everyday use. It was helpful during setup and testing, now it will only be used for trouble shooting later, if I have a problem.
The 5 LEDs correspond to: Limit Switches, Elect. Throttle Pos, Fuel Press. Switch, RPM Window Switch, Solenoids. A wire from each LED is connected to the terminal strip, at the right location, which will let me know that current has made it through that element.
The first 4 events have to be satisfied (LEDs lit) before the solenoids fire (green LED lit). If the green LED is not lit I can see which other LED(s) is not lit and quickly find the problem. I got the parts from Radio Shack, cost was less than $9.
Having all of my terminations wired to the single terminal strip makes this more feasible. In fact I decided to re-wire my FPS after the install was finished and it was just a matter of removing a jumper and moving a couple of wires on the terminal strip. Later, if an element were to fail and I want to run without it, I can just jumper around it. I did have to pull more wires to do this, but I figured if I'm going to pull wires it's just as easy to pull a few extra while I'm at it.
[Modified by JohnGlenn, 8:33 AM 7/16/2002]
The 5 LEDs correspond to: Limit Switches, Elect. Throttle Pos, Fuel Press. Switch, RPM Window Switch, Solenoids. A wire from each LED is connected to the terminal strip, at the right location, which will let me know that current has made it through that element.
The first 4 events have to be satisfied (LEDs lit) before the solenoids fire (green LED lit). If the green LED is not lit I can see which other LED(s) is not lit and quickly find the problem. I got the parts from Radio Shack, cost was less than $9.
Having all of my terminations wired to the single terminal strip makes this more feasible. In fact I decided to re-wire my FPS after the install was finished and it was just a matter of removing a jumper and moving a couple of wires on the terminal strip. Later, if an element were to fail and I want to run without it, I can just jumper around it. I did have to pull more wires to do this, but I figured if I'm going to pull wires it's just as easy to pull a few extra while I'm at it.
[Modified by JohnGlenn, 8:33 AM 7/16/2002]
#9
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Re: My NOS Install Is Now Complete!!!! (JohnGlenn)
- 1st and 6th gear inhibit switches (2 NC micro switches near the base of the shifter (under the boot) so it won't spray in 1st or 6th)
I definitely need this switch for the 150-shot. I already have enough traction problems in 1st without the gas. :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:
Thanks
-Tuan
#10
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Re: My NOS Install Is Now Complete!!!! (JohnGlenn)
The logic tester is a small plastic box with 5 LEDs, resistors, and female DB9 connector. It's Velcroed to the control panel and has about 7ft of cable so me or a passenger can hold it in the front seats. It's not intended for everyday use. It was helpful during setup and testing, now it will only be used for trouble shooting later, if I have a problem.
The 5 LEDs correspond to: Limit Switches, Elect. Throttle Pos, Fuel Press. Switch, RPM Window Switch, Solenoids. A wire from each LED is connected to the terminal strip, at the right location, which will let me know that current has made it through that element.
The first 4 events have to be satisfied (LEDs lit) before the solenoids fire (green LED lit). If the green LED is not lit I can see which other LED(s) is not lit and quickly find the problem. I got the parts from Radio Shack, cost was less than $9.
Having all of my terminations wired to the single terminal strip makes this more feasible. In fact I decided to re-wire my FPS after the install was finished and it was just a matter of removing a jumper and moving a couple of wires on the terminal strip. Later, if an element were to fail and I want to run without it, I can just jumper around it. I did have to pull more wires to do this, but I figured if I'm going to pull wires it's just as easy to pull a few extra while I'm at it.
The 5 LEDs correspond to: Limit Switches, Elect. Throttle Pos, Fuel Press. Switch, RPM Window Switch, Solenoids. A wire from each LED is connected to the terminal strip, at the right location, which will let me know that current has made it through that element.
The first 4 events have to be satisfied (LEDs lit) before the solenoids fire (green LED lit). If the green LED is not lit I can see which other LED(s) is not lit and quickly find the problem. I got the parts from Radio Shack, cost was less than $9.
Having all of my terminations wired to the single terminal strip makes this more feasible. In fact I decided to re-wire my FPS after the install was finished and it was just a matter of removing a jumper and moving a couple of wires on the terminal strip. Later, if an element were to fail and I want to run without it, I can just jumper around it. I did have to pull more wires to do this, but I figured if I'm going to pull wires it's just as easy to pull a few extra while I'm at it.
Patrick :cheers:
#11
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Re: My NOS Install Is Now Complete!!!! (Tuan Le)
My 1st gear nitrous inhibit switch: (it is the same for 6th)
It's a limit switch like the one that comes with almost every nitrous kit. The one I used is smaller and I got it from Radio Shack. I would have preferred a larger one that has more current carrying capacity, but this will do.
I mounted it using clear RTV silicone, to the rubber boot that surrounds the shifter . When first gear is selected the base of the shifter closes the limit switch. Because it’s mounted to the rubber it has some flexibility which helps to maintain the contact despite a little 'play' in the shift lever (see picture).
The normally closed contacts of the switch are used and it's wired in series with the wide open throttle switch. When 1st gear is selected the path for current to flow is interrupted and the solenoids can't fire.
I have used silicone in the past to mount things and it's held up well. But I haven't had a chance to go through the gears for a few months to see how it holds up in this application long term. I know it's functional, I just need see how the mounting holds up long term. Later if the shifter were to fail to close the limit switch, it would spray in 1st gear like normal, no harm no foul.
Later.
It's a limit switch like the one that comes with almost every nitrous kit. The one I used is smaller and I got it from Radio Shack. I would have preferred a larger one that has more current carrying capacity, but this will do.
I mounted it using clear RTV silicone, to the rubber boot that surrounds the shifter . When first gear is selected the base of the shifter closes the limit switch. Because it’s mounted to the rubber it has some flexibility which helps to maintain the contact despite a little 'play' in the shift lever (see picture).
The normally closed contacts of the switch are used and it's wired in series with the wide open throttle switch. When 1st gear is selected the path for current to flow is interrupted and the solenoids can't fire.
I have used silicone in the past to mount things and it's held up well. But I haven't had a chance to go through the gears for a few months to see how it holds up in this application long term. I know it's functional, I just need see how the mounting holds up long term. Later if the shifter were to fail to close the limit switch, it would spray in 1st gear like normal, no harm no foul.
Later.
#17
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Re: My NOS Install Is Now Complete!!!! (SIGALPHC4)
That is one of the coolest setups I have ever seen on a C5. Where did you get the strip to get all the wires hooked up to? That's awesome.
#18
Le Mans Master
Re: My NOS Install Is Now Complete!!!! (C5Noir)
Thanks for the info! I was wondering if you could put NO on a MN6. All the guys I've seen so far were on A4s. Any hint to the approx cost, if you don't mind!
PS:my best time so far has been 12.706 @ 112.9 mph on street tires. That's with a 2.183 @ 60' time which really sucks. If I could only hook up. But the Notrous is very interesting!
PS:my best time so far has been 12.706 @ 112.9 mph on street tires. That's with a 2.183 @ 60' time which really sucks. If I could only hook up. But the Notrous is very interesting!
#19
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Re: My NOS Install Is Now Complete!!!! (Mike Campbell)
I was wondering if you could put NO on a MN6. All the guys I've seen so far were on A4s.
#20
Racer
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Re: My NOS Install Is Now Complete!!!! (C5Noir)
Terminal Strip:
The terminal strip I got from Radio Shack (again). It's just 2 regular terminal strips mounted end to end to the control panel.
NOS Cost:
I paid $550 for the basic kit, and by the time I added the extras it was just over $900.
[Modified by JohnGlenn, 6:44 PM 7/17/2002]
The terminal strip I got from Radio Shack (again). It's just 2 regular terminal strips mounted end to end to the control panel.
NOS Cost:
I paid $550 for the basic kit, and by the time I added the extras it was just over $900.
[Modified by JohnGlenn, 6:44 PM 7/17/2002]