4deatr

At what temp is dangerous still run you car? Ever since I added my 383 stroker and the A&A Supercharger I run hot. I have the DeWitts radiators and fan kit. I use water wetter and distilled water. The car has been tuned and a lower stat has been installed. I even added the cool it fan relay to have my fans turn on at highway speeds. It's when I run my ac it get to 235 or 240 and turn it off.
Thanks

pewter99

heres what I did for that issue with my Maggie car...http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...aggie+resolved

fsuforever

Yea mine does the same thing ,u wanna know what I do ? Leave it in the garage & let it sit ,I'm tired of the bull ****. I have the same issues every year & I cannot drive my car in the summer ,unless I'm 10 or less miles away from home ,I don't trust this car ,cuz Iwwill get stuck every time ,so I garage it & drive it in the winter only ,u can get a top sheetmetal shroud for it ,may have a better chance of getting one since u own a & a kit ,what's that mean ? That means that I've tried calling & calling ecs & they are. Busy busy ,busy & I get the run around 9 times out of 10 I know I can call Andy & he will answer his cell phone for me anytime ,wow & I own an ecs kit ,well u live & learn ,not pknocking either kit ,but I do know that Andy has what u need to get ur temps Dow. ,probably the top shroud & the bottom air dam to fix ur problem ,sorry for such a long post but I got the same issue as u do & I can't seem to get anyone to answer emails or phone calls ,ask me now ,who & where I would spend, my money ,I don't have an option anymore unless I dump this ecs kit & buy an a & a,it is what it is ,both are good kits but both run hot & when I spend 10k or more ,u would want customer service a top priority ,& I'm sorry to say I can't even get up with ecs about a shroud ,I've blown up Alex email & Chris cell phone & it goes straight to voice mail ,apparently they aren't worried about it too much & I'm not the one to come on heere & bash somebody ,but I will call a spade a spade ,some people have a problem with that ,I don't ,call Andy or josh @ a & a he can help u bro

a/c man

@ 250 things get bad!!!

user_name

Bone stock these cars run up to 237* IIRC. No issues to be found with people running them on a road course like that in short bursts anyway. Stock tune just pulls a little timing and fattens it up. I'd do the same in the tune maybe a little more aggressive for FI and not really worry since it is the hottest part of the year.

The coolant temp gauge is going to hve to be pegged to start blowing gaskets and warping heads. 260+

a/c man

well said

pewter99

dude...thats hard to read

ajrothm

Welcome to the club man...

I wish I had the answer for you but.... Myself and many other members here are fighting this dreaded problem. I have tried everything except an electric water pump... Mine also sees 235*+ in traffic with AC on..

I'm at a loss as well for what to try next.. It's pretty discouraging... I'm not gonna have this kind of money in a car I can only drive in the winter... It's hot 9 months out of the year here.. If I can't get a handle on the issue, I may not keep the car...

BLOWNBLUEZ06

Dude, what's wrong? He punctuated it for you and everything.

4DRUSH

Sweet !!!

4deatr

Thanks I did try that too.

4deatr

It's nice to know its just me. I will have to just turn the ac on and off.

MVP'S ZO6

Lots of these my car is over heating threads. It sucks bad it really does but if you just cruising on the highway even if its 100 degrees outside the car shouldn't get over 205-210 in high ambient temps.

GM is wrong if they say its normal. It's not normal for these cars to be at 220 or higher all the time. That's too hot.

To the OP check your coolant, check your surge tank cap, check your thermostat, make sure there's no air in the system. There are ways to get the temps under control. Just because a guy with a similar setup isn't having trouble dont mean that you won't.


most of the time one of four things is happening with these cars to cause them to overheat or have higher then normal temps. (1) restricted flow to the radiator. This could be lack of air flow due radiator position or debris filled radiator fins. (2) there an air bubble or bubbles in the cooling system causing hot spots. (Just taking the cap off and running the engine won't solve this) (3) the surge tank cap is bad. (4) the thermostat isn't working. (5) the water pump is bad

Lloyd Christmas

Awwww ****, I just joined the club. Running a few joyous errands today in the vette it got pretty hot. There was some traffic, but IMO it was not terribly heavy. Sitting at the last of a few lights I saw coolant right at 240* and oil actually up around 239*. I would assume the oil temp was a result of the coolant temp since I don't usually see my oil that hot unless I'm hammering it. Radiator had some debris on it but nothing unusual, oil level was fine. Coolant was still too hot to check. I could hear it gurgling in the tank. That really sucks. I can see it happening in bad traffic, but not really in what I was doing today. I didn't bother turning the ac off. How does that even help? lighter load at idle?

jbsblownc5

I've delt with and beat this problem. It was not easy, and will require certain sacrifices that some are not willing to make.

*Get rid of AC condenser and compressor... I needed that space to install my Aviad oil pump anyway...

*Get a dewitts shorter rad, and spall fans, and or make sure your OVER sized Rad is in the STOCK/stood up position. Having the rad in the proper position to get the needed airflow is CRITICAL!!!

*Move oil cooler to one of the areas in the front bumper, so it has a clean airflow, and does not share the air in any way with the Rad.

*For those with air to air aftercooler, this will be a bit harder. I have an air to water aftercooler with 2 heat exchangers both mounted in the front bumper: again, no sharing of air with Main Rad. I've seen it, and believe it's quite possible to convert an Air/air system so it has 2 sepperate aftercoolers, and they don't block/share the main Rad air.

*Get a vented hood of some kind, or put vents in it...

*Make sure you do the basics...no more then 25% coolant at most, the rest distilled water. I like the 40 Below additive, better then water wetter. double check for any pressure leaks in the system, including cap.

*GET A EVANS WATER PUMP!

When these things are done, you will be able to drive under most any heated conditions, up to and including roadracing at 100 degrees!!!See vid below for proof, my temps were just fine for the whole session.

Chrisrokc

I am running an EWP w/ 180 thermostat and oil cooler w/ 180 thermostat. I have had this setup out and about for a few days now and my temps (both oil and coolant) have not crossed 190 unless I was doing a pull.

When doing a pull the oil temps stayed low and the coolant temps never went beyond 220.

I would imagine that a Dewitt's with upgraded fans would make this setup even better. While it isn't perfect with road racing... It is perfect for drag racing and the street.

Milan

Check to make sure your radiator and AC condenser are free from debris

meadowz06

Ditto. I had some debri on my radiator fins AND heat exchanger. It helped out greatly.

optimum01

I too had the running hot issues for yrs- got up to 235 and would have kept going but I used to shut it down. I have an iron block and D-1sc procharger. Did an evans waterpump, added an oil cooler in addition to a trans cooler. Got a really good tune and have been doing well now- no more fear. Funny thing- I had the old procharger setup for yrs without a prob. When I did the radiator tilted mod with the big air filter in front that's when my temps skyrocketed. But as said the oil cooler / evans pump etc got me running right. Its a pita though for sure.

Lloyd Christmas

Do you guys just wait til temps get up to a certain point and then shut the ac off?

I did some experimenting with it today after I put 2 bottles of Redline WW in my coolant. Still got hotter than it should have with no traffic, just regular redlight stops. Got up to 230* and I turned the ac off. It kind of just hung there until I got on a closed race course and wound it up to xxxmph with the ac back on. By the time I slowed down it was back to 201* with the ac on. So instead of temp spiking under boost it fell 30*. This was over the course of maybe 1 mile. If I leave the ac off temps don't seem to get up much past 217*. I may have my coolant swapped for straight water with WW at my next oil change, although I doubt I will be able to keep ac on and still have temps < 220. It seemed a little better over all today, but ambient was probably a few degrees cooler as well. ****** problem to have on such a bad *** and fun car.