Engine cutting out at 4000 rpm and above.
#41
Burning Brakes
Great thread!! Mine is doing that off and on sporadically.
Going to replace wires and plugs. Will Also look at cleaning the grounds...can't hurt.
Please post your outcome.
Matt
Going to replace wires and plugs. Will Also look at cleaning the grounds...can't hurt.
Please post your outcome.
Matt
#44
Le Mans Master
Interesting thread
Same issue, except mine started out missing under a heavy foot, and has progressed to missing while cruising but not real noticeable. I can put a heavy load on it while sitting still with brake on and recreate the miss. I have replaced , new plugs that I had bought with newer plugs, new wires I had just bought with newer wires, Wire Insulator boots to protect them from the headers, and switched out coil packs with another good running vette but nothing works. The last of the 3 shops I have had it in is fairly sure it is a ground issue. When it starts missing the drivers side bank goes lean. After spending multi- $1,000s of dollars ($36k in Mods) and I still have a car that I can't drive anywhere comfortably without worry. Some of you on the forum are familiar with my trials and tribulations that I have been through and it has become very frustrating. I'm so upside down on my car that it can never be sold.
When I added the S/C at one of the shops, they blew the engine on the Dyno tuning it by letting it go lean, I had it rebuilt into an all forged engine using the same A&A V3 SI 3.4 pulley, a Kenny Bell Boost a pump (which I'm suspecting could be the issue) and the A&A 800hp fuel system, so it has to be, IMO, somewhere in the grounds from what I have been told by the last 2 shops, problem is the charges keep mounting in the search for the gremlin that is causing the issue.
I may try to add oil and see if that works
Sorry Mooney to bust in on your thread , my experience just seems to be close to the same experience as you and a couple others on here.
Can't wait to see what yours turns out to be.
I'm going to continue to search on my own until Josh can make it back to Texas for a few days. Josh is excellent at what he does.
Same issue, except mine started out missing under a heavy foot, and has progressed to missing while cruising but not real noticeable. I can put a heavy load on it while sitting still with brake on and recreate the miss. I have replaced , new plugs that I had bought with newer plugs, new wires I had just bought with newer wires, Wire Insulator boots to protect them from the headers, and switched out coil packs with another good running vette but nothing works. The last of the 3 shops I have had it in is fairly sure it is a ground issue. When it starts missing the drivers side bank goes lean. After spending multi- $1,000s of dollars ($36k in Mods) and I still have a car that I can't drive anywhere comfortably without worry. Some of you on the forum are familiar with my trials and tribulations that I have been through and it has become very frustrating. I'm so upside down on my car that it can never be sold.
When I added the S/C at one of the shops, they blew the engine on the Dyno tuning it by letting it go lean, I had it rebuilt into an all forged engine using the same A&A V3 SI 3.4 pulley, a Kenny Bell Boost a pump (which I'm suspecting could be the issue) and the A&A 800hp fuel system, so it has to be, IMO, somewhere in the grounds from what I have been told by the last 2 shops, problem is the charges keep mounting in the search for the gremlin that is causing the issue.
I may try to add oil and see if that works
Sorry Mooney to bust in on your thread , my experience just seems to be close to the same experience as you and a couple others on here.
Can't wait to see what yours turns out to be.
I'm going to continue to search on my own until Josh can make it back to Texas for a few days. Josh is excellent at what he does.
#46
Melting Slicks
Interesting thread
Same issue, except mine started out missing under a heavy foot, and has progressed to missing while cruising but not real noticeable. I can put a heavy load on it while sitting still with brake on and recreate the miss. I have replaced , new plugs that I had bought with newer plugs, new wires I had just bought with newer wires, Wire Insulator boots to protect them from the headers, and switched out coil packs with another good running vette but nothing works. The last of the 3 shops I have had it in is fairly sure it is a ground issue. When it starts missing the drivers side bank goes lean. After spending multi- $1,000s of dollars ($36k in Mods) and I still have a car that I can't drive anywhere comfortably without worry. Some of you on the forum are familiar with my trials and tribulations that I have been through and it has become very frustrating. I'm so upside down on my car that it can never be sold.
When I added the S/C at one of the shops, they blew the engine on the Dyno tuning it by letting it go lean, I had it rebuilt into an all forged engine using the same A&A V3 SI 3.4 pulley, a Kenny Bell Boost a pump (which I'm suspecting could be the issue) and the A&A 800hp fuel system, so it has to be, IMO, somewhere in the grounds from what I have been told by the last 2 shops, problem is the charges keep mounting in the search for the gremlin that is causing the issue.
I may try to add oil and see if that works
Sorry Mooney to bust in on your thread , my experience just seems to be close to the same experience as you and a couple others on here.
Can't wait to see what yours turns out to be.
I'm going to continue to search on my own until Josh can make it back to Texas for a few days. Josh is excellent at what he does.
Same issue, except mine started out missing under a heavy foot, and has progressed to missing while cruising but not real noticeable. I can put a heavy load on it while sitting still with brake on and recreate the miss. I have replaced , new plugs that I had bought with newer plugs, new wires I had just bought with newer wires, Wire Insulator boots to protect them from the headers, and switched out coil packs with another good running vette but nothing works. The last of the 3 shops I have had it in is fairly sure it is a ground issue. When it starts missing the drivers side bank goes lean. After spending multi- $1,000s of dollars ($36k in Mods) and I still have a car that I can't drive anywhere comfortably without worry. Some of you on the forum are familiar with my trials and tribulations that I have been through and it has become very frustrating. I'm so upside down on my car that it can never be sold.
When I added the S/C at one of the shops, they blew the engine on the Dyno tuning it by letting it go lean, I had it rebuilt into an all forged engine using the same A&A V3 SI 3.4 pulley, a Kenny Bell Boost a pump (which I'm suspecting could be the issue) and the A&A 800hp fuel system, so it has to be, IMO, somewhere in the grounds from what I have been told by the last 2 shops, problem is the charges keep mounting in the search for the gremlin that is causing the issue.
I may try to add oil and see if that works
Sorry Mooney to bust in on your thread , my experience just seems to be close to the same experience as you and a couple others on here.
Can't wait to see what yours turns out to be.
I'm going to continue to search on my own until Josh can make it back to Texas for a few days. Josh is excellent at what he does.
#47
My fathers car (Impala SS w/LS6) was the same way. I moved the coil pack and the problem was still there. I switched the plug wires and still there. Removed the plug and it was cracked.
I've used the grease on the plug ends and the damn plug always comes off with the metal plug still connected to the spark plug. Anyone remember what the OHM should be for spark plug wires?
I've used the grease on the plug ends and the damn plug always comes off with the metal plug still connected to the spark plug. Anyone remember what the OHM should be for spark plug wires?
#49
Le Mans Master
Have you checked the injector wiring harness? It is documented that its too short and the fuel rail bracket can cut into it on the back of the drivers side. On mine it was shorting and causing an injector to stay open(super rich, gas smell), but it could just as easily cut most of the way through and give you a flakey injector signal. The problem usually shows itself when the engine torques(twists) and pulls on the harness. Good luck with your troubleshooting
Odd you mention that, the last place I had it looked at said they could here a sparking noise in the area you describe They had the windows rolled up and everything off, and that is when they heard it. My car is so loud, i don't know how they heard it but he said he did. I will check there or have it checked to see.
Thanks
#50
I had a similar problem like that also. My car felt sluggish, and I could feel a skip in it. Nothing would show up on hp tuners or it wouldn't through a code. I could hear like a snapping sound in my engine bay, started feeling around and dam I found it the hard way. There was a small slice in my spark plug wire that I couldn't see but I sure felt it when I grabbed it.
#51
Tech Contributor
Have you checked the injector wiring harness? It is documented that its too short and the fuel rail bracket can cut into it on the back of the drivers side. On mine it was shorting and causing an injector to stay open(super rich, gas smell), but it could just as easily cut most of the way through and give you a flakey injector signal. The problem usually shows itself when the engine torques(twists) and pulls on the harness. Good luck with your troubleshooting
MSD wires are specifically 25-30 ohms when tested with either of my 2 meters. When I test them, I squeeze the ends to hold the leads tight and roll my wrists to flex the connections. I have seen wires that will read good until I begin to flex and they will go high, so flexing while testing is an important part of testing the wires IMO.
#52
Le Mans Master
Unless the tuner disabled it, it will throw a P0200 code when that occurs.
MSD wires are specifically 25-30 ohms when tested with either of my 2 meters. When I test them, I squeeze the ends to hold the leads tight and roll my wrists to flex the connections. I have seen wires that will read good until I begin to flex and they will go high, so flexing while testing is an important part of testing the wires IMO.
MSD wires are specifically 25-30 ohms when tested with either of my 2 meters. When I test them, I squeeze the ends to hold the leads tight and roll my wrists to flex the connections. I have seen wires that will read good until I begin to flex and they will go high, so flexing while testing is an important part of testing the wires IMO.
#53
Le Mans Master
We have a group of 25 in our club here in Plano, Texas area, we are getting together Saturday and running wire testing on my car. Luckily we have a few high tech electronics guys in our club and they have all the test equipment to check wire issues, so maybe I will have some news soon.
Lee
Lee