Switching from D1SC to F1R, need pulley help!
#1
Switching from D1SC to F1R, need pulley help!
I currently have a D1SC 402 Ls engine. With a 3.4" 8 rib pulley, and stock crank pulley size (Newest A&A system) I made 750+hp through a th400 with a drag converter. Was seeing around 15lbs of boost max. Not a lot of belt slip though.
I bought an F1-R and I'm going to swap it in the car this week. I want to make similar boost, or pretty much anything under 20lbs. (Since I worry about the aluminum block. Everything else can handle 1khp) What size pulley do you guys recommend? I get conflicting inputs from the dealers, ranging from a 3.85 to 4.5 and I would rather not be buying 4 pulleys to see which is the right size. (Putting the blower in wed, racing the car saturday, so I'm not flush on time)
Thank you for your help! I figured the best guys to ask are the ones that have probably done this already, so here I am.
I bought an F1-R and I'm going to swap it in the car this week. I want to make similar boost, or pretty much anything under 20lbs. (Since I worry about the aluminum block. Everything else can handle 1khp) What size pulley do you guys recommend? I get conflicting inputs from the dealers, ranging from a 3.85 to 4.5 and I would rather not be buying 4 pulleys to see which is the right size. (Putting the blower in wed, racing the car saturday, so I'm not flush on time)
Thank you for your help! I figured the best guys to ask are the ones that have probably done this already, so here I am.
#2
Melting Slicks
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you realize that you need different spacers to make that head unit fit ?? I machined my pulley down .100 and then used 2.46 spacers to make things work on a F1a.. The R might be a little wide but i don't remember.. but its is .100 or bigger for sure then that D1.
use the smallest pulley you have, then use a restictor plate on it to keep it at whatever level you want to, esp since its a drag car and you want to low end power.
use the smallest pulley you have, then use a restictor plate on it to keep it at whatever level you want to, esp since its a drag car and you want to low end power.
#3
you realize that you need different spacers to make that head unit fit ?? I machined my pulley down .100 and then used 2.46 spacers to make things work on a F1a.. The R might be a little wide but i don't remember.. but its is .100 or bigger for sure then that D1.
use the smallest pulley you have, then use a restictor plate on it to keep it at whatever level you want to, esp since its a drag car and you want to low end power.
use the smallest pulley you have, then use a restictor plate on it to keep it at whatever level you want to, esp since its a drag car and you want to low end power.
You don't need to modify the new A&A bracket for an f1r according to a&A
#4
Le Mans Master
With an 8" balancer, a 4.25" blower pulley, I see 22-23 psi at 6800 with an F1R...
Mine does seem to make more boost then it should tho for the pulley combo... Not sure why. Mine is 402", Mast 245cc heads and a smallish 226/238 cam, 2" headers and 3" exhaust all the way.
So I'd guess you should try anywhere from 4.25 up to 4.5"..
Mine does seem to make more boost then it should tho for the pulley combo... Not sure why. Mine is 402", Mast 245cc heads and a smallish 226/238 cam, 2" headers and 3" exhaust all the way.
So I'd guess you should try anywhere from 4.25 up to 4.5"..
#6
9.2 @ 146. Its a swap car though. I called Andy and he swore three different times I don't need any spacers to run the f1r on this bracket. What are the spacers, and where can I get them?
#7
Melting Slicks
With an 8" balancer, a 4.25" blower pulley, I see 22-23 psi at 6800 with an F1R...
Mine does seem to make more boost then it should tho for the pulley combo... Not sure why. Mine is 402", Mast 245cc heads and a smallish 226/238 cam, 2" headers and 3" exhaust all the way.
So I'd guess you should try anywhere from 4.25 up to 4.5"..
Mine does seem to make more boost then it should tho for the pulley combo... Not sure why. Mine is 402", Mast 245cc heads and a smallish 226/238 cam, 2" headers and 3" exhaust all the way.
So I'd guess you should try anywhere from 4.25 up to 4.5"..
#8
Le Mans Master
4.38" pulley would probably get you at 18 psi or so.. Hard to say, so many variables between different engine/exhaust combos.
Also make sure you have a damn good auto tensioner on it. Ask Andy about his "modded" tensioner.. F1Rs will give your belt system a reality check for sure.
#9
Well...I did switch to a 10 rib setup at the same time so that's probably why we needed the bigger spacers.. I forgot to mention that. The f1r is quite a bit bigger then the d1sc tho so prepare for trimming fans and making room for the inlet.
4.38" pulley would probably get you at 18 psi or so.. Hard to say, so many variables between different engine/exhaust combos.
Also make sure you have a damn good auto tensioner on it. Ask Andy about his "modded" tensioner.. F1Rs will give your belt system a reality check for sure.
4.38" pulley would probably get you at 18 psi or so.. Hard to say, so many variables between different engine/exhaust combos.
Also make sure you have a damn good auto tensioner on it. Ask Andy about his "modded" tensioner.. F1Rs will give your belt system a reality check for sure.
As for the tensioner, I run a shorter belt since I only have an alternator and WP. Also I added a tensioner to the crank pulley to improve belt wrap. The car is limited on space in front of the motor otherwise I would run a 10-12 rib. If the 8 rib doesn't work, I will have to relocate my radiator and support just to get the clearance. I'd prefer not to do that. Just want to hit an 8, after driving the 50 miles to and from the track
#10
Le Mans Master
Yes you will have to space out the rack to clear the 10 rib if you go that route.
I'd love to see pics of your car and setup.
Hell I'm hoping to go 9.20s@150 in my heavy weight pig... I won't know til the fall/winter... Too hot to race here now.
I'd love to see pics of your car and setup.
Hell I'm hoping to go 9.20s@150 in my heavy weight pig... I won't know til the fall/winter... Too hot to race here now.
#11
Melting Slicks
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this is not a "maybe" on the spacers.. its going to happen.. but ill wait till you go trying to bolt that thing on and you see your pulley up against your idler.. Your asking advise from people who have done it yet your telling people their wrong.. Andy is a great guy but when the last time he put a pro charger on a car?? maybe 2007-8 ish?? I don't believe he did very many F series blower either.
#12
this is not a "maybe" on the spacers.. its going to happen.. but ill wait till you go trying to bolt that thing on and you see your pulley up against your idler.. Your asking advise from people who have done it yet your telling people their wrong.. Andy is a great guy but when the last time he put a pro charger on a car?? maybe 2007-8 ish?? I don't believe he did very many F series blower either.
The F series head units have a slight different offset because of the gear case.
FWIW-F1R and a 8 rib=slip, slip, slip.........
#13
Le Mans Master
Josh is 100% right-it's not going to bolt up to the 8 rib deal unless you machine the back of the pulley to get the offset right.
The F series head units have a slight different offset because of the gear case.
FWIW-F1R and a 8 rib=slip, slip, slip.........
The F series head units have a slight different offset because of the gear case.
FWIW-F1R and a 8 rib=slip, slip, slip.........
Rick
#14
Melting Slicks
this is not a "maybe" on the spacers.. its going to happen.. but ill wait till you go trying to bolt that thing on and you see your pulley up against your idler.. Your asking advise from people who have done it yet your telling people their wrong.. Andy is a great guy but when the last time he put a pro charger on a car?? maybe 2007-8 ish?? I don't believe he did very many F series blower either.
Josh is 100% right-it's not going to bolt up to the 8 rib deal unless you machine the back of the pulley to get the offset right.
The F series head units have a slight different offset because of the gear case.
FWIW-F1R and a 8 rib=slip, slip, slip.........
The F series head units have a slight different offset because of the gear case.
FWIW-F1R and a 8 rib=slip, slip, slip.........
Had to shave the back tabs off the alternator to get it to line up with the 8 rib pulley, but had ZERO issue after this was done.
#15
Safety Car
For those who say there are alignment issue with the A&A Bracket and a F-Series, it is not that bad, a small washer served as a spacer and put it right in alignment. I spun the motor over several hundred revolutions and never appeared to be an issue.
Had to shave the back tabs off the alternator to get it to line up with the 8 rib pulley, but had ZERO issue after this was done.
Had to shave the back tabs off the alternator to get it to line up with the 8 rib pulley, but had ZERO issue after this was done.
#17
Melting Slicks
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like i said.. it wont work...the spacers have to be bigger. i bet if you measure the washers, it would come out to about 0.100 inch, which is almost a full rib off. BTW, there is big difference between turning it over by hand and turning it over at 7k...
Washers is what i used as well to see how much spacing I needed, but it defiantly not optima when trying not push the blower.Machining the pulley down is the best way to not have to mess with anything else.
Washers is what i used as well to see how much spacing I needed, but it defiantly not optima when trying not push the blower.Machining the pulley down is the best way to not have to mess with anything else.
Last edited by joshtownsend; 05-08-2013 at 02:08 PM.
#18
like i said.. it wont work...the spacers have to be bigger. i bet if you measure the washers, it would come out to about 0.100 inch, which is almost a full rib off. BTW, there is big difference between turning it over by hand and turning it over at 7k...
Washers is what i used as well to see how much spacing I needed, but it defiantly not optima when trying not push the blower.Machining the pulley down is the best way to not have to mess with anything else.
Washers is what i used as well to see how much spacing I needed, but it defiantly not optima when trying not push the blower.Machining the pulley down is the best way to not have to mess with anything else.
Update on the install. Spacing was incredibly simple, ran a set of machined .140" washers without issues. I'm amazed everyone acted like this was a huge deal, but honestly, it was a simple fix. (I ran it about 200+ miles and 10 passes over 7200rpm, alignment is dead on) I will make a plate next and swap it in to replace the washers.
#19
Josh is 100% right-it's not going to bolt up to the 8 rib deal unless you machine the back of the pulley to get the offset right.
The F series head units have a slight different offset because of the gear case.
FWIW-F1R and a 8 rib=slip, slip, slip.........
The F series head units have a slight different offset because of the gear case.
FWIW-F1R and a 8 rib=slip, slip, slip.........
I know you used to make a 10 rib setup that worked well in conjunction with an f1-r and flip drive. Do you still know where I can get that? I will PM you as well in case you miss the query here.
#20
Melting Slicks
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Update on the install. Spacing was incredibly simple, ran a set of machined .140" washers without issues. I'm amazed everyone acted like this was a huge deal, but honestly, it was a simple fix. (I ran it about 200+ miles and 10 passes over 7200rpm, alignment is dead on) I will make a plate next and swap it in to replace the washers.
I'm getting to where I'm tired of trying not help people avoid issues because it seems like every time some body comes in here asking questions, they already have the answer they want to hear already in their mind.