MVP'S ZO6

Looking good.

sabastian458

Finally got the new compressor going, and sand blasting cabinet working. I was able to get the block clearanced for the rod bolts. Started blasting the rest of the aluminum pieces clean. Mn that's a job.

Vert_Fan

Reading this thread, it sounds like post #146 highlights what a 427 LS motor with S258s could be like on your car seeing how you also have a 4" stroke.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=288657&page=6

Sounds like just a little higher than your initial posted goals.

With that said, back pressure, efficiency seen in IAT etc. would still have to be determined.

sabastian458

Interesting.... I wonder what ar housings and gate sizes they are running. They have ls3 heads where I have the TFS heads so I will loose a bit there, maybe not a whole lot.

sabastian458

Little update.

Decided to hold off on having the heads CNC'ed for a while, deciding to spend that money on upgrading the diff a little. I'm putting the C6Z06 output shafts and clutches with the HD springs in, trying to prevent some breakage for a little while. I posted in the thread "http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/2547887-output-shaft-install-left-and-right-5.html" what I am looking at replacing. Looks like that will cost me about $700 and some time. I think it's for the better.

I was able to wrench on the car Friday and Saturday, got the driveline dropped and the torque tube separated. Saturday I fully disassembled the tube, leaving the transaxle laying under the car. Man, those bolts on the couplers are a major PITA. I broke 2 torx bits, and twisted 5 others before getting them off.


I fond out that I wasn't hearing things when the car was running. My rear two bearings were bad on the torque tube. The oil seal on the middle bearing had come loose a bit, and both rears had a bad spot when rolling it in my hand, plus before taking that housing apart, I spun it in hand and it made the bbs in a tin can sound.


I just ordered new ARP bolts for the guibo couplers, I am using 2 six shooters. Part number for the ARP bolts is 675-1006 for a 5 pack. M12 x 1.75 52mm is the stock size, the ARP is 50 mm length.

So now it's onto finding the oil leak on the transaxle and prepping it for the minor upgrade that's coming its way. Once I have the driveline fixed up, I will start back on running the new -10 AN fuel feed, and the battery relocate wiring. Then it's back to making the engine and turbo setup work lol!

sabastian458

Just bought some GM tools for the diff and the parts to upgrade. Should be here next week.
J42162, J42168, J42173A, all under $200.

89060110- now 19133221- C6 Z06 pinion carrier
19132906- C6 Z06 carbon clutch kits (need 2)
19180962- gear
89060119- shaft
89060120- shaft
24228816- seal
89047953- seal (need 2)
19259473- seal (need 2)
12455045- seal
12369456- seal
19206242- seal
89047954- gasket
19132817- Belleville washer (need 2)
12458084- lock

I have an email into DTE about if they have better Belleville washers or not. I am also going to run Amsoil fluid instead of the GM fluid. It's the same cost. The parts cost me about $770 so far. Would be cheaper if the online parts houses didn't try to make up their gross by charging the shipping and handling fee. (Put the parts back up to my current discount with GM) but oh well, my local guy has been great to work with.

My next step will be the tranny. I want to replace the shift fork bushings, the 3-4 shift fork if it hasn't been already (to the iron fork) and check all the syncros and anything else that it might need or should do while its apart. Shouldn't be much as its a 25k mile car.

RonSSNova

I'm following.
You could clean the head castings yourself with a dremel. Clean the valves with a wire wheel on the bench grinder, if you haven't already finished cleaning them.

I'm in the middle of doing an alum L33 5.3 BW S476 turbo engine from the ground up. Porting my own 799 heads....and it's a lot of work.

I'd do a build here, but it's going in my Nova, not the C5.

Short way of saying, I dig the DIY projects.

I think you should ditch the LS9 cam and go custom from Tick or Lil John.

Ron

sabastian458

I would but I want valve train survivability. I have had both a LG cam and a Vengence cam fail, lobes wiped off. Aggressive lobes, big cam, high spring pressures, just ended badly for me. Plus I'd like my drivability back too. I will leave power on the table with the LS9 cam, but it cost me $125 instead of $400.

I will finish my heads myself, would have liked CNC but the funds needed diverted somewhere else that could have used it more.

sabastian458

Spent this weekend working on the car, specifically the diff and trans as previously stated. Glad I did too. 25k miles and they are both bad. Sub 450 hp/tq, stickiest tire has been a Invo.

Right side Belleville washer


Left side Belleville washer


Left side clutch pack


Here is my output shaft on the transmission. Looks good to me, how about y'all?





Bought the J tool to hold the transmission plate for when I go back together. Probably didn't have to have it, but considering I know I will need to build at least one more T56 in my future it was worth it. I plan on just getting a piece of pipe that's about the outside diameter of the tool's fixture fitting, and welding up a bracket onto one of my extra engine stands. Right now the trans is just chilling on a chair. (Better than the bath tub, right? Lol)

Plan on the transmission is pretty basic. Bearings should be good, will double check one apart. Looking to replace all shift fork pads with the bronze, replace 3-4 for with steel, replace the snap rings (over stretched 2 so far, not risking reusing any of them), 1-6 billet keys.

Any other suggestions on the transmission? Everything shifted well before, so I'm thinking most all the hard parts will be fine.

All the diff parts except the pinion support should be here tomorrow, so I will button up that this week. Looking to media blast the outside of the case and then painting it. Maybe not paint it as it would be hard to spot a leak. Idk.

JDS99

Nice work. I like the DIY stuff myself, and am guilty of going that route as often as possible.

Just a heads up on the c6z carrier.. Check the bearing preload before assembly. The ones I have seen have had little to no preload with the spacer as is. May have to work the spacer down a bit. The bearings are Timken P900 series. I work the spacer to get to about 20in-lbs rotating torque with the new bearings.

sabastian458

Interesting. It may be a futile attempt to put in my diff, local dealer said there weren't any in the supply chain except for a few dealers across the country. Had to put in a spec (?) case or something on it to see if it can be sourced from one of them. I may have to get more information from you on exactly how to do that, or at least how to properly check it.

I got to spend the evening in the garage tonight, haven't been able to do that on a work night recently. Transmission is fully disassembled and cleaned, a few of the bearings look like they gave gotten a bit warm during operation, may go ahead and put new bearings in. I know one of the lil ones kinda wanted to give me a hard time, so it died..... Oops.

Synchronizers look good, not much wear if any. All the shift for pads were intact, as we're all the keys. Now I just need to source the lil upgrade parts and get all these lil tidbits back working in harmony again.

I will be taking a few days off from working on the car, my hard work was rewarded with chemical burns to my hands. This idiot forgot to wear gloves while playing in the parts washer. That crap hurts.



This lil guy is the only one that died.





And all the fork pads were intact

sabastian458

No go yet on all the diff parts today, looking like Thursday they will all arrive.

Forgot to mention, except the little bearing that I broke, everything on the trans came apart by hand, no pullers needed.

I emailed Tick Performance about trans parts, the gearbox is closed until next week. I'm wanting to put a premium bearing kit, snap ring kit, billet 1-6 keys, bronze 1-6 fork bushings, steel 3-4 fork. Unsure if there is anything else I should do while there or not.

sabastian458

The more I read on the trans, the more I feel the stock main shaft won't live long.... :/ that and I am now considering adding a fluid pump and nozzle onto the trans to cool the forward gears, maybe add one to the rear diff too. Then also considering changing gear ratios too. Knew this would happen of I opened the transmission up lol, never fails.

MVP'S ZO6

Here's the deal. Even a big bad g force main shaft will break under heavy sudden shock. (an example would be like major wheel hop) So your stock shaft may live longer then you think if you 1 don't drag race or 2 have a means to control heavt sudden drive train shock.

With that said, having good parts and the ability to control any possible sudden heavy shock is the best.

Cooling is a good idea too!!

sabastian458

I am planning on the pfadt trans mount, already have the Hinson trans mout but I think the other will be better. I am also going to run the ESC brace too. Hopefully that will handle the hop.

Ok, so now I will focus on what changing the trans gear ratios do for me, look into the fluid pump, and maybe face plate, but that last is just ***** and giggles not practical.

sabastian458

Diff parts arrived! Except for the pinion support. :/ still waiting for one of the 4 dealers that have it to respond.



Going to spend tomorrow night getting the torque tube finished, as the ARP bolts finally showed up. Came out to $5 per bolt with washer, still cheaper than my cost at the dealer.

I went a head and painted the cases black last night, painted the brackets for the diff brace silver/aluminum. Had an extra part from the brace kit, the beveled spacer. Not sure where it goes, online instructions don't list it.

sabastian458

And if anyone catches it, the gear has been installed on to the short shaft, not the long one. Got a little excited lol

Darion

Wow, big to you for all the work you have done. Look forward to seeing how this works out and wish I had the ability to do what your doing! For me after stuff like suspension, brakes and basic bolt-ons I'm at my limit.

PC

sabastian458

I have previously on this car, already swapped a LS2 in place of the LS6 via out the hood, swapped the brakes over to the C6 Z06 setup with ss lines and motul fluid, swapped shocks over to Bilisten HD for lowered cars, and changed out the suspension bushings to poly bushings. And now tackling a front to back build. It's been fun and exciting already lol

sabastian458

Transmission parts finally ordered. You won't believe how hard it was to find someone willing to sell parts. Frustrating. I don't want to buy a whole new unit, just freshen and update the one I have.

Going to be putting the torque tube back together to finish it, and finish the diff carrier now those parts have all arrived, except the pinion support. Still no go on it, and might end up not getting it. Oh well.

Moving on, I will be looking at my own external diff/trans coolers this weekend. Found a setup minus pumps and the fitting to the actual units (has the lines and some of the fittings) for a reasonable price, just need to see if I have space for it. Oh, it has a 180 degree thermostat built in also. I need to see of I can drill and tap my trans case so the return fluid sprays the front gear set with out causing issues. Then look into the best placement for the fluid return for the diff.

Progress feels good. Spending money doesn't, but I miss my car immensely.