helga203

Food for though. If i was you i would save some good money by going with a different crank. If your not looking for 12 to 1500rwhp that crank is over kill. JMHI.

sabastian458

The S366's will be able to push 1000+ easy. I'd rather go over kill, plus that crank is only $700. I wouldn't save that much going with another brand.

helga203

Sorry i though i saw those priced at 1800.00. Dame 700 go for it.

sabastian458

Crankshaft will be here today, damn quick shipping. Now just waiting for the final price quote from another vendor and everything else for the short block will be on its way.

sabastian458

Will be ordering rest of engine parts this week, maybe even today.

Right now I'm at a 4.000 bore piston, 4.000 stroke crank, +20cc dish, .051 compressed gasket, 6.125 rod, 1.110 compression height piston, +.005 deck clearance. All that should net me 9.52:1 - 9.62:1 compression ratio depending on my final combustion chamber cc (64cc-65cc), which is just about perfect for what I want.

Next decision will be fuel supply, whether I want a single or dual pump set up. Still considering dual Aeromotive 340's or now either an A1000 or Eliminator with a fuel pump controller. I have the feed line for either route (-10), but I would need to add a bigger return for the A1000/Eliminator (currently 3/8th factory feed, but would need a -10 return according to Aeromotive)

Then I can finalize turbo selection.

sabastian458

There's my current mains, don't look to pretty in my opinion. Looks like something began wearing into them. The rod bearings look fine oddly enough. So it looks like just cam & main bearing issues. :/ puzzling.


But on the good side of things, my heads are checking out fine. Held fluid in the chambers for several days without loosing any. A good cleaning, valve lapping and new spring and I believe they will be good to go.

sabastian458

Not getting many respondents now, but going to continue to update.

New clutch came in last night, as did my new valve springs from Brian Tooley. I measured one of the new spring sets and compared those measurements to one of my old spring sets. Old outer spring length- 2.136 New outer spring length-2.141 Old inner spring length- 2.3945 New inner spring length- 2.437. So my old outer spring is .005 shorter, and the old inner is .0425 shorter.

Began working on the cylinder heads while I wait for other parts to start the short block. Began by cleaning the chambers as pictured above. Last night I broke down one head to start cleaning the valves and runners. 2.5 hours later I have 2 cleaned intake and 1 cleaned exhaust valves. :/

I am fighting some type of tar like substance that is built up on the valves. Man is it a PITA to get off. I started by soaking the valves in clean brake fluid (worked well for the chamber) and using a steel bristled brush, started scrubbing. When that made little dent, I broke out the air file (right angled air tool that the round sanding disks or round scotch brite pads screw onto) that made some of the work go faster, being very careful not to use much if any pressure. That gave me a clean valve, but I still need to go back and polish them, I'm not satisfied with the marks on the valves. They are not deep or anything, but I want a smooth valve.






Once that one cylinder head's valves are cleaned I will start on the intake/exhaust ports, cleaning and making sure there is not any ridges or rough spots. I'm not going to polish the intake runners but will polish the exhaust ports if needed. I don't believe I will have to do that on these heads, as they already look wonderful. I'm just focusing on touching them up slightly.

I am expecting my pistons and ARP main studs today, so I can start fitting and such on the pistons and rings. Any one know if you have to have the main bearing bores reline honed when installing the ARP main studs, or can you screw them in and go? (Well I know not just screw them in and go, but I hope y'all know what I ment)

sabastian458

Received my LS9 cam, well the second one from them. First one had 2 gouges on the cam bearing journal. Here is the second one. I need to know if this is acceptable or not.




Should I return this one too?

sabastian458

Spent some time tonight working on one set of runners. I need to get more sand paper to finish the polishing. No real porting performed, just taking the casting marks out and smoothing the sharp transitions. I'm doing my best to take the least amount off. I'm using a dremel with a sanding barrel attachment for the rough cut, then I used 180 grit dry sand paper for the final (for now) sanding. I want to change to 80 or 120 grit after the dremel cut, making the 180 grit as the last sanding. Here are some pictures.

SBCGENII

Send the cam back.

sabastian458

More parts arrived.....






Finally bought a parts washer from harbor freight, $96 and came with a 2 year no questions asked warranty, I can keep taking it back every 2 years for a new one. Also if anyone was wondering, the ls2 block fit perfectly in it.




Engine is fully cleaned now. Just have to fit pistons/rods/crank and check for clearances to see if I have to notch anything. I also want to clean up the casting marks in the oil galley behind the cam retainer plate.

I also received my Melling 10296 pump. Opened it up and ported that bastard and smoothed everything really well. Cleaned and reassembled.

On major screw up tho, my gf's lil girl and I walked thru the garage this weekend and she (and the massive amount of parts everywhere) cause me to loose my balance and mixed up my valves for one head. FML right?

Next step is locating a camshaft bearing tool, really don't want to buy one, but I guess I might be forced to do so.

sabastian458

Found out last night that my stock LS2 came with factory oversized pistons. Lesson learned again that I should have already known. Working on sending back the 4in pistons and getting 4.005 pistons.

So now I have time to finish cleaning all the covers and plates. I also need to clean the garage too so I can pull the transmission to install the brace & rebuild the TT.

Got my new main bearing in again, first set came in scratched up, new set is beautiful. Need to find a cam bearing tool still. I could also go ahead can fit the oil pump and wind age tray so I can open the bolt holes up for the ARP main studs and for spacing the pump out for the double roller.

Kinda feeling good making some head way on this project.

sabastian458

Not sure why I keep updating this, seems to not have much attention like other builds out there.

Had to send the pistons back and get the next size larger bore. Should be here when I get home. So in the mean time I have been cleaning the block & other parts and doing a bit of machining. I'm going to end up media blasting my covers, can't get them as clean as I want.

I took the time to clean up the casting flash/slag that was in the oil galley area behind the cam retainer plate and the rear engine plate. The cross over section on each were pretty small, and seeing as my LS6 & LS2 both suffered from wiped cam lobes, I figured it wouldn't hurt to help equalize the pressure and flow to both oil galleys to the lifters. I smoothed down all the roughness and opened up the cross over some in the process. I did very little actual porting, mainly focused on taking it down until all the peaks and valleys were close to each other. I took some sand paper afterwards and smoothed it better. This is the result.
Rear


Front- the black speck just off center here. That was just a speck that blew off when done.




Being that this is a LS2 block, I have the DoD towers under the valley plate. Can I tap these and mechanically plug them? I know the valley plate has the o rings underneath, but I'm concerned that they will or eventually leak when the oil psi is high. I want to reduce as much oil psi leakage/loss as I can.

These are the towers I speak of.

Vert_Fan

Keep up the good work and enjoy the build. I know I'm eagerly following trying to see what you're going to do with the turbo setup itself!

If I'm not mistaken, you have several options for turbine wheels and several options for hotside ARs with the 366s. What do you have in mind?

Fitting 3" downpipes? Using factory exhaust manifolds?

sabastian458

I was going to cut up an extra set of long tubes I had laying around and fit a v band clamp on the end, then a cross over to the fenders, going to attempt full 3 inch down pipes and a recirculating waste gate. I sold the old LT's so now I'm thinking factory C6 Z06/ZR1 exhaust manifold only, making my own cross over/up pipe. They seem to work well from what little research I have found. If I could, I'd like a set of shorty headers in a 1 7/8th to 2 inch primaries, but that's very unlikely or cost conscience for this build.

Turbo size I'm thinking middle of the road on the sizes. Have even thought about tring to fit a single S480, but I think that wont work. My main concern is spool, I want a good driver with fair decent street manners, not something that's going to wait until 4,000+ to spool up (single) or will become a bottle neck before max RPM (twins) that's why S256's are no linger in the picture. I may even step down to S356-S362's. but I'm going to wait until the power train is back into the car then I'm going to sit down with my turbo guy and fine tune the choice more.

I ended up selling my old Borla straight pipes, H$S N2O kit, and my old LG long tubes, so now I have a little $$ together and looking as sending the heads/intake out for professional port work. That is if I can find someone who will accept them for working or email me back. (That has been the biggest issue to date with this build, finding someone who responds to emails within 1-2 weeks or even a month. I'm still waiting for Texas Speed to email me back about a rotating assembly lol and I have had one sitting in my garage for a month now lol)

Oh well, no big deal, got my parts at a price I'm happy with and that is what counts, right?

Pistons arrived today, going to spend some time this weekend dry prepping and fitting. I believe I may have to clearance the block for the rods, and oblong the wind age tray bolt holes for the ARP's and the double roller chain. So that should take me some time to do. I also need to find time to pull the drive train to rebuild the TT and install the trans brace still.

Parts I still need are; injectors, pumps, pump wiring, inter cooler, hot & cold piping, clamps & sic lone couplers, gates, turbos, BOV, misc nuts/bolts, boost controller, gauges & pod, sheet aluminum for ducting, C6 Z06 mani's, C6 Z06 battery relocate wiring, and possibly a meth kit (I know I said I wouldn't/didn't want, but I'm reconsidering due to A2A cooler now). I think that's about what's left on parts, I think....

Chris Stewart

I'm watching too. Good work man!

sabastian458

Small update...

Finally found someone to work the cylinders for me that isn't other worldly expensive. Seriously I have had people price me more that what a set of TFS 235 CNC heads cost me to just CNC my 220's. So I am getting them ready to ship out.

Haven't made much progress other than that, work and family is taking more and more time as of late. I have began emailing shops to see how much they would charge to final machine and assemble the short block, found none. Apparently if they don't supply the parts no one will assemble them. It's crazy. I have saved enough buying my rotating assembly from 2 different vendors (neither are approved on this site) to be able to send my heads off to be CNC'd. I would like to have a reptiable shop assemble the short block, but looks like I'm forced to continue my original plan to do it myself. My next proble has been finding a machine shop to work on the block, nothing major, just a line bore check and finish bore to piston spec. That's been a headache in itself.

I don't remember if I posted it but I bought my garage a 220v 60 gallon compressor. Much larger than my lil 8 gallon one I have now. And I bought a small sand blasting cabinet too, so I can clean all the covers/panels/odds & ends for the car. My 2 car garage is getting awfully small now hahahaha.

I plan to straighten up my tools this weekend so I can start making head way again on the car. Before I know it a year will be passing my by since the car last ran......

I keep going back and forth about turbo choice, because more I think about it, 1,000-1,300 hp is awesome but impractical for what I use the car for and would most likely make me dissatisfied with it. I keep thinking of the S256's vrs S366's. idk yet. One of my engineer buddy's keeps kidding with me to run a single S256 with medium a/r housing and a single S480 with a large a/r housing in a compound setup. Can ya say insta spool? Lol

Vert_Fan

I think if your goal is 700-800, then the 256 might just be the ticket.
My only concern is that you have a 4" stroke and the S256 has a small turbine, unlike the poster above who ran then on a 6.0L LS2. Backpressure might be an issue?

I really wish someone would get you a used/broken 300 series to test fit since you can get that in a S360 or S362 for the same price as the 366.

sabastian458

I missed my chance a few months back, a buddy with an Evo put a S366 on and I could have used it, but he didnt tell me until he had installed it.

I will prolly end up buying one of the s366's and test fitting first. If it fits it stays, if not it will be easy to sell over a s256.

sabastian458

Heads are packed as best as I can muster. Will be shipping this week to AI for their 230 CNC work. Should be a 5-6 week turn around or so. In the mean time I will be cleaning up my tools and garage, and completing the wiring for my shop compressor and finishing my sand blaster cabinet.