ajrothm

I just checked the DIC, got the 0361 and 0441 codes... The 0361 is current, the 0441 is history. So it seems it has the left side actuator problem... HOWEVER, I don't see how that will effect the CENTER vent temps being off...? I can tell the drivers door vent temp is warmer, it always has been...but I always had cold CENTER vent temps (40-42*). Guess I'm gonna fix the actuator either way but... I still don't see how that affects the center vent temps..

The right side vents above the glove box are easily 5-10* cooler then the Center vent temp...

a/c man

yea your right the vents closer to the evap coil will be colder I wonder if its getting heat soaked when you stop moving?

1stGlance

Interesting thread - not related to your problem - but thought might be worth mentioning - last time I was in Bowling Green couple years ago - my air conditioner stopped working and turned out there is a screen inside the lines that got clogged up with aluminum shavings from the old unit - and it took a couple trips to the repair shop before someone figured it out -

5 Liter Eater

Thats the orifice tube.

ajrothm

OK, got a little work done...

Pulled the driver sided blend door actuator that was throwing the 0361 code. I was expecting a broken gear but it was all good. I did re-index the main gear back two teeth that is supposed to help with triggering the code..


I have not gotten the code since, but I still have a big difference in temps from passenger to center to driver sides..

I can get 40-42* on the passenger side, 45-48* in the center vent and 55*ish on the driver door. This is with the fan on medium, recirc and 95* ambient... Probably about as good as I am going to get it..


Problem #1- not solved.


I also set out to figure out the Charge Fault code/no charge on start up issue with the Billet Tech alternator... I tried running 12v switched to the L terminal. It DID excite the alternator and did not throw the charge fault code... However, it was affecting the consistency of the charge....getting .5 variations... So I took the 12v back off, connected the factory PCM signal wire back to the L terminal..

Now all of the sudden the alternator is self exciting and charging on its own at start up, without the 2000 rpm rev needed... Weird... not sure what fixed it or if it will last, but its working for now..

Problem #2 solved - kind of.

Next mission was to figure out why the DIC/Volt meter read so much lower then voltage I measure with the DVM at the battery, so I pulled the ignition switch, as this feeds voltage to the dash.





Contacts had burn spots on them from bad connections..

So I buffed them out with some 400 grit..


I also bent the arms to provide more preload and a better contact on the pads... The key is noticeable more firm when turning it on/off...Feels good..

Not sure it made much difference... The DIC still reads about .2-.3V less then the volt gauge...which reads about .2-.3v less then the DVM at the battery... So roughly .5v on average from the DIC voltage to actual measured voltage at the battery.. Not sure why... Don't care..

Problem #3 - Not solved...



I finally decided to wire up the light to the gear indicator on the shifter....Not that I "needed" it but I just wanted it to work like a regular car... Especially since I had the console all apart...(I never wired it up at the time I did the auto swap)


Problem #4- Solved


Today I installed some HID lights(4300k) in the low beams... Got them working but the head light buckets don't close...Waiting on the resistor to come in from JW Motoring. Now maybe I won't feel like Ray Charles when I'm driving home from work at 4am..

Problem #5- Partially solved...


Shop/Guard dog is pissed that she is not playing ball..

Problem #7- Not solved..

So my laundry list of "to do" items continue on... Eventually I will get this thing to run/drive/act like a regular, almost stock corvette...

a/c man

It would be easier to just buy a stock corvette but that's no fun keep up the good posts

ajrothm

Hell lots of the problems I have, stock corvettes have... I'm just on a mission to exorcise them....

My wifes G8 has 75k miles and never had ONE electrical problem, everything has always worked...never had any kind of quirk.... Where as my Vette has 34k miles, pretty much has had every C5 vette issue/quirk...and for every one issue I fix, 2 more pop up... The 850hp is not causing all of the weird vette quirks/bugs....It just breaks drivetrains...--THAT, I can explain/justify..

5 Liter Eater

Pain in the *** on the servos. What about ~disabling them to always be the same and not mix air?

5 Liter Eater

That way, if you confirm that none the baffles are not trying to mix in outside air, it must be that the drivers side vent is pulling from a part of the evaporator that's not getting as cold.

ajrothm

Yeah not sure exactly how they work but...When I switch from Recirc to outside air, there is a huge difference in temps/smell etc etc... So when I'm in recirc, its definitely closed off to outside.... What I'm wondering is about the hot/cold blend door... Maybe the hot air is leaking thru a bit on the left side? But if that was the case, why is it affecting the center vent...?

I know there is something up with the passenger side actuator...Its not throwing a code but the passenger side temp control is inoperable...its stuck max cold all the time, no matter where the **** is at..... Which completely contradicts the fact that the driver side is warmer then the pass side...

Either way, I gave up on it. I'm not pulling the whole dash out to get to the passenger side actuator so... It still gets plenty cold inside with 45* air at the center vent and 40* air on the pass side so... I'm not gonna worry about it. I don't want to get the dash squeeking/creeking/rattling from R&R'g it. I never use the heater anyway, and if I do, the driver side and defroster still get hot, just the passenger side doesn't..

I am curious about the Freon charge tho...Some say low Freon causes the higher temps on the driver side due to less cooling across the whole evaporator.. I thought about throwing another 1/2 can in it to see what it does but.. My pressures are pretty much where they should be...I hate to F it up now..

BLOWNBLUEZ06

If you're able to get temps down to 40 degrees on any vent, your evaporator core is about as cold as it's going to get.
Block off your heater hoses and see if that doesn't help.

ajrothm

Got some more work done on the junker... Just some detail stuff I've been wanting to do..

Had a local upholstery shop re-foam my seat and mod the seat back for harness usage...


Stock seat bun was like a flat tire with only 34k miles...So we did that first.


Modded the seat back...




Added HID headlights since the stock lights BLOW...


Gathering up my stuff for my audio upgrade... Just waiting on the 8" Alpine headunit and modded bezel to show up..


Hopefully I'll get the stereo stuff done in the next month, then it will be ready for the Fall cruising season...Then hopefully back to the track in the winter to make my 8.99 attempt...

a/c man

seat Looks great! the sound system will help it hook up!!

BLOWNBLUEZ06

Looks great!

blown81bu

that is nicest engine bay i ever seen in a c5...were did u get those covers?..coils in fenders?..also those lines hooked up to covers go to a breather tank in the nose?

ajrothm

Thank you!

Yes Bret put a lot of work into getting the engine compartment how I wanted it... Then I've made some updates/changes in the last 2 years...I'm happy with it other then the intake's appearance.

The valve covers are from katech with a lot of work by Bret to get them to look like this. The coils are relocated to the fenderwells.

The -10 breather hoses run to a catch can in the rear of the car..

a/c man

Sweet!!

5 Liter Eater

Alan, When I ran my valve cover vent lines to the rear of the car I ended up getting lots of sludge inside the hoses, looked like puppy diarhea. There was so much it pretty much clogged up the hoses almost entirely. I'm assuming becuase the mist cooled off on its way back to the rear of the car. Since you're giving the car the once over you may want to check for this. Take the hose off ov the valve cover and catch can and blow it out with an air compressor and make sure no junk comes out.

ajrothm

Thanks Bill!

I'll try that next time I'm working on it... I still see a good amount of venting coming from my breather so it seems I have pretty good flow to the rear... My -10 valve cover hoses tie into two 1/2" hard lines right behind the motor that run to the catch can so I wouldn't think it would sludge up but....You never know.... Hell I rarely get more then a few drops of water/syrup in my catch can anyway.

BLOWNBLUEZ06

Thanks for the street credit Alan. I appreciate you giving me the freedom to play. I couldn't have done it without your approval.
I hope you don't mind, but I hope to try and one-up my work under your hood, under mine. Hoping to have pics within the next month. Can't wait until the day you put some race gas in that car and let'er eat for real. You've got an 8 second car there.