Auto Swap Thread
#41
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
Posts: 28,846
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I got one but sold it ever one in the market will tell you the A4 cars really dont need one in the car. As long as you get out of the right foot in car gets into wheel hop bad. The stick cars is where ever one needs all the help dropping are slipping the left foot at high RPM.
#43
Safety Car
Thread Starter
#44
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Yeah how about a diff brace? Also, your trans needs a shift lever like this.
Here's a similar thread if you haven't seen it: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...onversion.html
I ran -6 braided lines to a big front mounted cooler. We tried an electric fan cooler in the back, but it wasn't enough to keep temps under 200.
Here's a similar thread if you haven't seen it: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...onversion.html
I ran -6 braided lines to a big front mounted cooler. We tried an electric fan cooler in the back, but it wasn't enough to keep temps under 200.
looks nothing like yours.
here is my auto TQ tube
#45
Safety Car
Ok the shifter linkage looks right, (i dunno if its supposed to come apart like that) but I dont see a Neutral Safety Switch. Looks like you can get them a Autozone etc.
#46
Safety Car
Thread Starter
ajg1915- i might need your shifter and linkage, as mine looks broken
#48
Safety Car
Thread Starter
#49
Le Mans Master
#50
Safety Car
Thread Starter
#51
Le Mans Master
I think GM says after running the car you should loosen and re tighten it.
they say when you loosen it you will hear a pop! like it was under pressure
#52
Race Director
Start and run the engine at idle until normal operating temperatures are reached. (Idle or drive for at least 10 minutes.)
Turn off the engine and allow the powertrain to cool to ROOM temperature.
Raise the vehicle.
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1). Tighten
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt to 130 N·m (96 lb ft).
Turn off the engine and allow the powertrain to cool to ROOM temperature.
Raise the vehicle.
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1). Tighten
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt to 130 N·m (96 lb ft).
#53
Safety Car
Thread Starter
just loose at first until you get the car good and warmed up! then just hand tight with locktite it needs room to move this is what ECS said could have made my thrust on my crank go out! But (East Texas Muscle cars) had a pilot bushing in my crankshaft! and the fact that they never balanced the eagle crankshaft! took it out!
I think GM says after running the car you should loosen and re tighten it.
they say when you loosen it you will hear a pop! like it was under pressure
I think GM says after running the car you should loosen and re tighten it.
they say when you loosen it you will hear a pop! like it was under pressure
unless im not thinking, how am i gonna tightin them once everything is put together.
#54
Race Director
#55
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Start and run the engine at idle until normal operating temperatures are reached. (Idle or drive for at least 10 minutes.)
Turn off the engine and allow the powertrain to cool to ROOM temperature.
Raise the vehicle.
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1). Tighten
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt to 130 N·m (96 lb ft).
Turn off the engine and allow the powertrain to cool to ROOM temperature.
Raise the vehicle.
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1). Tighten
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt to 130 N·m (96 lb ft).
Thanks guys havent messed with an auto drivetrain before.
#56
Race Director
Hey Billy,
The flexplate replaces your flywheel. You bolt it up just like you would a flywheel.
There's a rubber cover on your bell housing that pops out that allows you access to the spline lock shaft.
Make sure use blue lock-tite on the crank bolts (6) and the spline lock.
The flexplate replaces your flywheel. You bolt it up just like you would a flywheel.
There's a rubber cover on your bell housing that pops out that allows you access to the spline lock shaft.
Make sure use blue lock-tite on the crank bolts (6) and the spline lock.
#57
Safety Car
Being nit picky I had to use a spec. When I got near 50ft-lbs, the aluminum started distorting from the flat head bolts so I settled around 40ft-lb.
Also, I followed spec once for that hub clamp bolt and cranked it 96 ft-lb. The next time removing the torque tube, that input shaft would NOT come out. Now I go easy with max 37 ft-lb on the hub clamp. No need to smash it.
#58
Safety Car
Thread Starter
so lets get this straight
the 6 bolts that hold the cone i get them tight (can i get them tight before i put it on the car or do i have to do those too after the car is ran)
then the clamp, i tightin once the car has ran a bit. to 37-96 lb.
the 6 bolts that hold the cone i get them tight (can i get them tight before i put it on the car or do i have to do those too after the car is ran)
then the clamp, i tightin once the car has ran a bit. to 37-96 lb.
#60
Race Director
Spline Lock Assembly to Flex Plate (50 ft lbs) 1st - 25, 2nd (50)
Flex Plate to Crank Shaft (74 ft lbs), 1st -15, 2nd 35, 3rd 74
Spline Lock to input shaft (96 Ft lbs)
You should do the spline lock and flex plate in multiple stages using a star pattern just like you do when you install a tire.