FactoryRaceCar

^^^^ Very nice vegasred

vegasredz062

thanks factory

ill try to get a pull from 2nd to 3rd.. just tough trying to hold the camera and shift..

FreddyG

You make a good point Vince, but Nouman's car is on a STOCK bottom end too (not forged and his car is a FREAK)!

Nice car VegasRed! I Really like how it rolls into the powerband!

FactoryRaceCar

Get the camera mount. Be safe out there.

FactoryRaceCar

Sir, I am on stock bottom end as well. Car with APS had 3.73 gears. I did not hide my numbers. They both did though.

I know my car is not the fastest one out there but it has yet to let me down. The day it will, I will make it faster

vrybad

Now, that's the spirit!!!

Vince99FRC

You are making a lot of power for stock bottom end. Please tell me you are on race gas. Also, for those cars to have lag something is wrong. The APS kit come with some small turbos and even on a 346ci car it should hit full boost pretty damn quick. The Cerra Kit I dont know too much about. You said the APS car had 3.73 and still had a lot of lag? Something does not add up. Either the owner of the car has a really bad boost leak or he started the 40mph race off in 3rd or 4th gear.

undertaker

I had a STS on a forged 346 and now have a paxton with 8 ribs on the same motor. Now ecs blower cam vs. turbo cam (yet they're closely spec'd)

The car makes wicked midrange over the sts setup. As in I haven't been able to use much of the power due to traction.......even with the drag pack on it at 30 psi. The car was skating, i was puckering.

Warp Factor

No such thing as no turbo lag. Some are better than others. I notice about 1/2 second between the time you hit the throttle and the time the tires break loose.

mdhmi

Front mounted turbos by a mile. 800 rwhp blower cars = belt headaches.

vegasredz062

1/2 second is about right, the tires broke loose is b/c the car made peak boost 7.6 psi at that time ..my car made 430trq at 2k rpm NA so that does help having the 402.

either way.. i have seen about 8 s/c cars at the track and ALL have a hard time with 550 rwhp to 700rwhp breaking 125 mph.. not sure if its the driver or elevation.. but there are few on this forum who have dynoed around 550 and ran 122 at best.. and few who have 680-700rwhp from what they told me and i saw them run 126, 128 .. yes elevation on s/c hurts more then turbos.. but still..

nothing against s/c as i have never owned one.. but from a few people who have had both they say Twin turbo all the way.. and you never see people go from turbo for s/c.. its Always the other way...

DeFormula

If you can afford a turbo, go that route. No belt issues to deal with.

Mopar Jimmy

Hey bro, as you know we have talked via pm recently about your buying a forged C5 F/I monster that is already professionally put together and done right for outright purchase.

My advice is follow your gut and heart, and if this tells you to go with a twin turbo C5, then you should hold out until the right one comes along and they come along quite often around here (as do the high HP centri. supercharged cars).

Also, you have to look at the complete package of the car from the engine builder, tuner, drivetrain, driveline, workmanship of work done, was the car beat/flogged on often, raced, street driven, or well maintained, and whether the car is having issues (i.e.- down in compression) etc, etc.!

Be patient Grasshopper, the economy, time, and prices for highly modded C5 all work to your advantage (and it certainly is a buyer's market)!

undertaker

my belt doesn't offer headaches

Rkreigh

I agree with you about buying a car DONE. you save quite a bit of the cost, just be careful and really check out the car.

I bought a TTiX tiger shark and had it converted to an automatic to take out some of the drivetrain shock. car will make 800 at the wheels but unless you are on slicks 600 is more than enough as it's about the limit you can hook even on nittos which are very streetable (335/18)

another perspective about centrifical blowers, on a street car one of the reasons blower cars work so well is that the power is very progressive and more "linear", a bit easier to control.

with the turbos, the car comes on boost and the torq curve bulges up pretty fast, which can be a bit harder to control. don't be afraid of a 3.45 gear, the turbos LIKE the load and you can plant the torq easier.

to finally answer your question is very simple, since you are looking for a complete car go drive BOTH. find one that is set up right, either method will make all the power you can handle and then some.

both are very exciting, I prefer turbos for the sound and "torque swell" you feel getting into boost. it's quite addictive.

but I have ridden around in centrifical blower cars that are hellaciously fast, reliable, and cheaper to build. done right they are just as exciting at a cheaper price point.

enjoy!

HIGHRPM

I haven't had a belt issue in 2 years since I redesigned my F1R system using the ECS 8 rib bracket. Belt issues were resolved years ago, so I don't know why turbo guys keep harping on "belt issues". The only centri/Maggie cars that have belt issues are ones that aren't setup right....usually alignment issues.

AlwaysInBoost

I haven't had a single belt issue in 10k miles of abuse, I mean use.

Drewstein

Without quoting and arguing about which is better ect, here's my .02

It's all about what you have to spend!

I have an 800rwhp D1 car that is a down right land rocket and saved me at least $4,000 by not going turbo. To accomplish the same thing and have spent less is what my goal was.

I don't have any belt issues and it drives like a cammed vette.

If money is no object I would have gone with turbos. That's not saying I'm not happy with the blower. In fact I like blowing away turbo guys with my lil ol D1.

STL94LT1

Although by far not one of the most powerful cars in this section of the forum. Here is a dyno graph of my LPE TT Vert. It has a pretty nice torque curve, and is possibly the easiest street driven manual car I have ever owned.

Mopar Jimmy

1000%, I have had my D1 with a 6 rib on for 12,750 miles and my current forged set-up with ECS 8 Rib bracket on for 900 miles, WITH 0 FREAKING BELT ISSUES!