The Viking

I am going to pull my motor out when I get back from South Dakota to change the rear main seal and inspect/heatshield all of my wiring. I am wanting my new setup to be as reliable as possible. I was also planning on getting my headers ceramic coated. What would yall recommend me getting or doing to make my car more reliable? Here's all of my mods:

'98 C5
TSP LS2 402 w/ Diamond Racing -28cc Boost Pistons
LS6 Intake Manifold
Granatelli MAF
Kooks 1 7/8" Longtube Headers/Catted X Pipe
B&B Route 66 Catback w/Bypass Pipes
A&A 230/240 591/608 115lsa Cam
LS7 Lifters
AFR 205 59cc Heads Milled .030"
A&A Procharger D1SC Kit/ 4.63 Pulley, 6 Rib
Dewitt's Radiator
Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
LPE Fuel Pump
60lb Mototron Fuel Injectors
Taylor 10mm Spark Plug Wires
Textralia Twin Disc
Hardened Output Shaft
Autometer Boost Gauge
AEM Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge/WIdeband o2

RJW

How about bigger heads and a real fuel system?

The Viking

how do the heads effect the reliability?

0Brian@FI Performance

Something different, hit some advanced driving schools...

Gannet

What's not reliable about it?

RJW

My bad...great heads but just seem maybe a bit small for your setup.

peter pan

He has a 98 and the fuel systems are fine (they have the reture) at the levels he is running, I know I converted mine before ECS and others came out with there setups and it works great on my setup for 2 years now with no hickups

RJW

Ok..so I have OFS...just ignore me......

MIKE-C5

The Viking

Haha. I guess I'm just a little paranoid. It made good power before, 640rwhp/502rwtq with these heads and the stock fuel pump. I'm just hoping for 600/600 reliably this time. It was plenty for me before, especially on the street. Andy spec'd the cam for my setup now, so I'm gonna run with it and see how it goes. I thought it was pretty reliable, just didn't know if there was anything maybe I missed that would make it safer, like meth or somethin. I'm still new to this stuff, so I figured I would run it by the experts I would like to do a little auto cross some day.

RJW

Question: With your old power level, was that with the 205's on a 402?

The Viking

no. that was with the stock bottom end.

RJW

Tha maybe be why some of us are a little skeptical about 205 heads on the bigger displacement engine...

I am running 205's on my 346...up to 621rwhp/647t, but on my new forged 346 I will be running 225's...looking for more hp than torque...but that's just me.

The Viking

yalls setups are definitely badass! will the 205's effect the reliability though?

RJW

nope

The Viking

Are there any other small things that I need to know about like pinning the harmonic balancer and cam bolts coming loose? How do you prevent them from coming loose? I used red loctite and torqued them. Should I get some ARP cam bolts instead of stockers?

INTHERED

If you can afford it I would use ARP bolts everywhere rods, heads, crank, cam, balancer, etc, etc.

RJW

If using that blower, then by all means pin the crank or expect to have problems, unless your crank and damper are keyed?

silver01z06

depending on what cc dish your pistons are you look like you are running pretty high compression. i would go with some 225cc intake runner heads and like 70ish cc combustion chambers. lower your compression, up the boost and make more power. 59cc heads are normally not used on forced induction setups.

The Viking

the shortblock bolts and the head bolts are arp. i guess i will get for the rest of it then. i pinned the crank after it spun off the second time :o . i never knew that my old crank and balancer was pinned because i never pulled the crank bolt out on my old motor. live and learn huh? TSP said my compression should be around 9.6:1 with the -28cc pistons. Andy said it would be ok up to 10:1.