Yano

I read the post by Jersey Jay where his IAT were too high with the TTIX FMIC. So the pros at ECS switched him out to their FMIC from the ATI SC kit.

Here are some questions:

How much difference did or does the Alky kit make on the TTIx kit, and how about the FMIC from the ATI kit?? How much extra $$$$$$$$ did that cost??????

On my Subaru STI it has a Top Mount IC (TMIC) and has these little tiny fogger nozzles that shoot water at the TMIC.

Do you think it would make any difference to hook up a tiny water nozzle spray kit for the FMIC??? or would the Alky kit drop the temps so much it doesnt really matter anyways??? Or would both be a great idea???

I was thinking I could just order the whole kit from subaru with the storage tank, pump, fogger nozzles and tubing. I think it holds about 3 quarts.

It doesnt allow for constant spray, I believe its a 3-5second spray and then it turns itself off. The water spray is pretty fine. So I dont think you would run into any issues with water getting on the ground causing traction issues or anything. Or I guess you could even make a small drip plate below the FMIC if you were concerned about that.

I just thought this might be a good idea after a run down the track squirt the FMIC for 5-15 seconds to help cool it off, or hit it for a few seconds before a run to have cooler air going thru the FMIC.

Blast away !!!!!

Thanks,

Bryan

VETZILLA

Bryan,

I have no problem with intake temps until temps get above 85deg outside. As for pressure drop across the TTi FMIC I can tell you that I have no problem holding 13#'s of boost solid all the way to 6600rpm, I actually get a bit of creep up on some runs but the controller does a good job of keeping it pretty flat.

In order to address the High IAT's on hot days here is a alternative to Alky. I got a simple NOS dry system and spray a .15 jet inside the intercooler on each side right past where the compressor tubes connect to it. The 2 .15 jets together are about a 30 shot so they have no effect on AFR but are able to drop IAT's 30 - 40 degrees with bottle pressure at 950 - 1,000#'s. I just did some data logging this morning temp 76 deg, hum 70% baro 29.88, at the end of a full pull to 140 on the e-way with the spray IAT were 97. This was after driving around for quite some time so I know the engine was heat soaked. A 15# bottle will last a LONG time.

Good Luck


Mike

ICULUKN-C5

I have a TTi stage 1 in AZ..... My IAT's on a 100 degree day are in the 140-170 range... With the ECS meth kit my IAT start at 140 and are 70 by 3rd gear... I picked up 140 RWHP with the ECS kit, since I can up the boost (from 7-12.5) and keep all the timing.

7LitreC5

Bryan,

When I get back from Orlando next weekend lets get together and I will log some EFILive data on yor car. That way we can see exactly what your IATs look like and how fast that they increase/recover when going from on boost to off boost

onfire

Yano, if you get a chance, post a pic of the Subaru water nozzles...I'm curious how they set it up. TIA

Yano

Dont forget the stock is a TMIC. I will see if I can find someone who has done it to the FMIC.

Its a very simple tube with two tiny water fogger nozzles.

Yano

After doing some reading on the Evo & STI sites, since these guys have tons of experience with TMIC, and FMIC.

Most of them dont spray the FMIC because since they are FMIC they dont suffer from any heat soak.

The TMIC guys almost all spray water to prevent heat soak. How much difference in performance. about .1tenth in the quarter mile and about 1mph.

I think Mike you have by far the best idea.

I was talking to RMCR about this a few weeks back and he suggested the same thing, although he suggested a 50shot, I think your idea of two 15shots would be just the ticket for cooling the IAT down after some hard runs or on a hot day.

That bottle would last about what 20-30 runs too.

Can you email me shots of your setup if you dont mind.

Thanks


EMAIL

NICK YOSKIN

what about spraying fmic with co2?

cheap

Yano

a few guys had done that, but it seems that instead of trying to cool down an 18"x36" or whatever size IC you have, it would be much cheaper and more efficient to cool the actual air.
You dont cool the outside of a car with AC you cool the air inside it. Well at least that seems to be the consensus

Skunkworks

Just a few thoughts here (don’t shoot me);

Spraying NOS at IC inlets is not optimal location because intercooler efficiency is actually being reduced. Basically you want the intercooler to see largest possible temperature differential (delta T). Heat exchangers (intercoolers) have an approach, that being, at given mass flows and temperature differential you can only get X amount of cooling. To get more cooling you need a larger area/larger intercooler or larger temperature differential. By spraying at inlet the intercooler actually acts like smaller unit.

I don’t want to get into all kinds of math, but picture it this way;
*You can transfer X amount of BTUs per square foot per degree F temp. differential. To get more BTUs transferred you can increase surface area or increase temperature differential.
*Since your area or size is fixed let compressor air come in unchanged to maximize delta T.

After intercooler discharge is optimal to cool with NOS dry shot because intercooler has done all work it can. I know dry shoot at inlet side will cool thermal mass to some point and reduce heat soak, but gains here are negligible.

As far as spraying outside of intercooler with water mist or something else, that’s fine because you are making outside cooler thus providing more temperature differential (delta T). You have two temperatures to be concerned with, which is external or heat sink surface and charge air to be cooled and that is the delta T that I keep referring to.

Hope this helps,
Mike

onfire

In that picture, where are the nozzles? TIA

SS930

I have to strongly agree with Mike on this one. Regardless of what you're spraying to cool the charge (water, alky, NOS...), it will be far more effective AFTER the IC.

DOUG @ ECS

WOW,
Now thats a big drop, I have not had temps that high here yet so I have not been able to test it with IAT's starting that high. On Jersey Jay's car we have found an average of five degrees over ambiant at 15 lbs of boost.

mdhmi

What? No talk about water IC's ?

Mark

Skunkworks

I was going to go there, but decided not to.

Mike

Yano

They are tuning my car.

My IAT's are at 140. They turned down my boost to 11psi, they were getting detonation in 5th & 6th gear at 14psi. I believe they have it at 11psi with 18degrees of timing now with no detonation.

It was 82 out today humidity at 13%.



I also agree, cooling the air after it has gone thru the FMIC would be the best choice. that way you get the cooling effect of the FMIC and then the cooling effect of either the Alky, NO2, or H20

Yano

Sounds good to me

1%r

Damn 140 IAT's

My IAT's @ 61 degrees ambient were @ 66 @ 15 psi with the timing @ 21 degrees.

I think you know what you have to do.

Tony @ MPH

JJ, were those IATs including the alky spray or without alky? Also, was that your IAT at the end of a single gear pull or at the end of going 1st through 4th?

1%r

Tony this was with the Alky spray and it was when we were logging on the road with a 1st through 4th hard run @ WOT.

Call me on my cell when you get a chance as I was talking direct with Paul Blackmore @ EFILive today.