#001 2001 Z06

This a LPE Twin Turbo Z06

http://www.caranddriver.com/article....&page_number=8

http://www.caranddriver.com/article....&page_number=8

http://www.caranddriver.com/article....&page_number=8


This Car has 800 bhp/ 830 Torque
and a 345/30R-19 rear tire.
1/4-mile: 11.6 sec @ 136 mph
0-60 4.11-4.62 This is good?

Run # 1 2 3 4 5
0-60 mph, sec 4.11 4.93 4.21 4.42
0-100 mph, sec 7.52 8.74 7.45 7.63
1/4-mile time ET, sec 11.59 12.20 11.62 11.79
1/4-mile time TS, mph 136.10 126.60 136.30 137.00
Time to entrance of road course, sec 17.65 19.60 17.35 17.80
100-150, sec 7.49 DNF 6.66 7.16
150-0, feet 703.41 DNF 682.25 696.66
150-0, sec 6.44 DNF 6.46 6.54
Vmax, mph 153.80 127.40 151.90 153.30
Road-course time, sec 48.95 DNF 49.15 48.80
5-sec penalties 0 0 0 1
Official time*, sec 93.90 DNF 93.25 98.85


This is a LPE N/A 427 Z06

Mild Cam, No Fast Intake/ No 90 TB, Stock 295 F1, No Nos, Three years ago

http://www.caranddriver.com/article....&page_number=2

Vehicle type:: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 2-passenger, 2-door coupe
Price as tested:$78,173 (base price: $71,778)
Engine type:pushrod 16-valve V-8, aluminum block and heads, GM/LPE engine-control system with port fuel injection
Displacement428 cu in, 7007cc
Power (SAE net)500 bhp @ 5800 rpm
Torque (SAE net)530 lb-ft @ 4400 rpm
Transmission6-speed manual
Wheelbase 104.5 in
Length 179.7 in
Curb weight 3275 lb
Zero to 60 mph 3.4 sec Pretty damn good for F1's
Zero to 100 mph 7.8 sec
Zero to 110 mph n/a
Zero to 130 12.7 sec
Zero to 150 mph18.0 sec
Street start, 5-60 mph 4.4 sec
Standing 1/4-mile 11.7 sec @ 124 mph
Braking, 70-0 mph 152 ft
Roadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad 0.98 g
EPA fuel economy, city driving 18 mpg


This is full Coupe, only 510 bhp, not rwhp

LINGENFELTER 402 C6 CORVETTE
Vehicle type: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 2-passenger, 3-door coupe
Price as tested: $85,781 (base price*: $61,149)
Engine type: pushrod 16-valve V-8, aluminum block and heads, port fuel injection
Displacement: 403 cu in, 6606cc
Power (SAE net): 510 bhp @ 6000 rpm
Torque (SAE net): 500 lb-ft @ 4600 rpm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Transmission: 6-speed manual
Wheelbase: 105.7 in
Length/width/height: 174.6/72.6/49.1 in
Curb weight: 3341 lb

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Zero to 60 mph: 3.7 sec
Zero to 100 mph: 8.5 sec
Zero to 150 mph: 20.8 sec
Street start, 5-60 mph: 4.3 sec
Standing 1/4-mile: 11.9 sec @ 122 mph
Braking, 70-0 mph: 163 ft
Roadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 1.00 g
*Base price includes all performance-enhancing options.

My car 430 cid N/A with port match Fast & 90mm TB
Full T-1 Race Bars, Coil Overs, Poly Bush, Corner weighted, 60 lbs lighter
996 Porsche 13" Lightened Rotors, KVP Ceramic Backed Pads, DRM Ducts,Tubes, Spindle Holders, Stainless Steel Pistons, Stainless Steel lines, Motul 600
ACP Carbon Hood, Carrovaggio Rear Spoiler. 3.42 rear.

Vehicle type:: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 2-passenger, 2-door coupe
Price as tested:$100,000 (base price: $100,000)
Engine type:pushrod 16-valve V-8, aluminum block and heads, GM/LPE engine-control system with port fuel injection
Displacement429 cu in
Power (SAE net)630 bhp @ 6300 rpm
Transmission6-speed manual
Wheelbase 104.5 in
Length 179.7 in
Curb weight 3225 lb. Est. Have to find the paperwork
Zero to 60 mph 3.2 sec, bet I can cut a 3.0 at 20 psi.
Zero to 100 mph n/a
Zero to 110 mph n/a
Zero to 130 11 Flat on Nitto RII's
Zero to 150 mph 15-16 Sec Estimated. Aluminum Flywheel. This cuts off about three seconds. MTI racing article, SuperChevy mag.
On Nitrous 10-12 seconds depending on tire. Estimate based on other results.
Street start, 5-60 mph Unknown
Standing 1/4-mile 11.0 sec @ 130 mph
Braking, 60-0, 82 feet.
Roadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad 1.13 g's this was on F1's, Not on the R2's, will G-meter.
EPA fuel economy, city driving Not sure.


O.k. Here we go.

My car will run on the road course all day and never get over 195 Degrees. A TT will not run all day. On a 346, you lose about 7 h.p. for 10 degree's you go over prime operating temperature, over 230 degrees the car retards the ignition.

It will out handle and stop faster than any TT car with the same setup. It is lighter, has less weight on the nose and is 50/50.

ET Drag's and a 75 shot will put me under ten seconds with a 10.5" slick. How about a 125-500 mullitple shot?

This what I will be doing.

Buying a set of CCW's 17x11, 17x12.5 and Kumho V710's. 335 rear 13.5 section width. Pick up a nitrous kit.

1) Take it Thunderhill Raceway and attempt to run under a 1:56
2) Take it Sacramento Raceway, See what I can run with the 305 RII and the 335 Kumho(Nitrous and No Nitrous) Post Test Results.
3) G-Meter the Handling with both the Nitto's and Kumho's. Figure 8 at the Russel School at Laguna Seca.
4) Check Stopping Distance with the Kuhmo's

Race Log, Video(I have mount on Roll bar) and bring the results back here.

Keep in mind I still like TT's.

Doczo6

what do you want a cookie?








J/k good luck with your testing and be safe

mdhmi

Very good article. I'll take the TT's hands down any day of the week.

What is amazing is the MTI Z07 numbers. Best ET run was 12.23 @ 121.90 MPH. That is barely faster than a lightly modded Z06.

Cheers,

Mark

Harley99

slamar1

If I remember correctly, the TT was tested with street tires. 136mph in the 1/4 mile on street tires is pretty damn fast. Also, this car has a standard c5 tranny with 3:15 gears... not exactly set up for the 1/4 mile.

This is a 200++ mile per hour car for sure.

from a 60+ mile per hour roll on the road... this car is GONE!

DDSLT5

YEAH BABY!!!! That is the real allure of the TT - not forgetting that it runs exactly like stock when off the boost!!

#001 2001 Z06

slamar1,

The TT above is a Z06 with a six speed and 3.42's
You are thinking of the LPE coupe from 2002(I believe).

No arguement on the top speed of the TT(225+)

0-100 mph a high power 427+ N/a car will be faster on street tires
(Less weight, better throttle control, tire adhesion is maxed for both types of vehicles(this is the main problem)).

0-150 The Turbo looks to be about a half second faster(than mine(aluminum Flywheel), which is easily taken care with NOS on the 427, which will cut off say 3-5 seconds off its time.

Roll from 80 mph on the highway. This what the TT guys like. Eyeballs in the back of your head to 175 mph. I cannot argue this, way way fun. (Recently, did this in my business partners Renttech Cl600). However, then you have to shift to sixth, where as I am going to 7,200 rpm's(High lift roller rockers soon) about 205 mph in fifth. May take the car to Germany to find out.

Back on the phone.

Jerseyboy

I'm not sure what you are trying to prove with this comparison but...

The car used in the C&D Supercar Shootout was a 2002 Z06 but it did in fact have a 3.15 differential and standard C5 transmission ratios.This allowed the car to reach 150mph in 4th gear and eliminate a shift. The car was also boost limited up to 120mph to try and help keep traction. Couple that with having to try and launch on the pit road at MIS with a road race suspension alignment and off the shelf Michelin Pilot Sport tires ( NOT PS2's - the original pilot sports bought from Tire Rack as per the rules of the event) and you have a recipe for a low ET. I know this car, I've seen it and talked to the guys at LPE about it at length. I just want to make sure you have all the facts right before passing judgement.

Like I said in the beginning, I'm not sure what this is supposed to prove but I'd be interested in seeing your results.

Jersey

3XBlack6spd

I think you are missing the Key element here..the Traction! If youve ever had any experience with the 2 setups, you would know that the FI car is going to be much faster, especially from a roll. As mentioned before, a car that goes 136 mph in the 1/4 mile on street tires, is FAST car!

#001 2001 Z06

I did not miss the the traction issue at all. This is perhaps my biggest point and the weakest link of F/I. Re-read the information carefully. A F/I and a well built big cube LS N/a(no Nitrous) will be able to spin the tires up to 100 mph. A built C5 Lingenfelter 427 car will be able spin the tires through the lights(over 135 mph). So at what point does it pull on the N/a, in fourth. Which can be handled by a little nitrous.

I had had one street car that would run 8.3's N/A and would spin the tires the lights at 158 mph. Throttle control was everything.

Last time I checked quarter mile, road races and street races were won by ET, not mph. This is what every F/I person talks about. No one cares, they look at the person who crossed the finish line first.

Using the data above:

Even so, on the street/roadcourse say we hit a straight 1/4 mile, Car number one(n/a) get there in 11 sec. flat at 130 mph and car number #2(TT) gets there in 11.59 at 135, who is faster...Then we have a turn we have to take at 90 mph...Car number one has to brake off 40 mph(never mind you that it lighter, better balanced and can take the turn faster). Car number two has to scrap off 45 mph to take the turn. Car number one is more agile and can come out the apex faster and get on the throttle smoother. Car number two definetely has to be straight before getting on the gas due to the irregular way the torque comes in. By turn two and three, big difference.

LPE built a 540 Cid N/a Viper a few years back. It beat every late model car at the strip, including blown vipers pushing close to 1,000 r.w.h.p..

FYI. I have driven and owned several very High HP TT's. And many other high hp cars. I have personally raced cars on the road course/strip up to 1,500 h.p..

Comparision of real world results of N/A vs. F/I.
Real world acceleration, reliabilty, streetabily, race wortheness, braking, handling, money, fun factor, ego, whatever someone is willing to bring up by either by personal feeling, information or valid arguement.

mdhmi

Well, that is the _official_ way of scoring who won. I, however, prefer big MPH over low ET. When I go to the track I'm there to putz around and have a good time - not break my driveline into little pieces trying to get a great ET.

I'm much more impressed with a car that runs 11.6 @ 135 MPH than I am with a car that runs high 11's or low 12's at 112-114 MPH (big stall, sticky tires).

To each his own.

Cheers,

Mark

3XBlack6spd

They are all valid points, and to each their own! Believe me, I love a N/A big cube american muscle car....I would just prefer mine to have a blower on it too!

brent eb02

i love my cartek 427

its best time so far is 10.16@136 mph N/A !!!

onfire

Same cars, same track, same tires, same day and same driver or it's all speculation.....wayyyyy too many variables.

Loboost

So are you trying to say that everyone who bought a top of the line LPE 427 TT is going to loose in a real world race!! I THINK NOT, if the owner or tuner (LPE) of the vehicle turns the boost down (very easy with a boost controller that can control boost with speed or rpm) the car will easily trap and et better than a N/A 427.

The people who buy these kits did so because they wanted wretched excess and enjoy roasting a set of 345s at 100mph. FORCED INDUCTION RULES also a 427 TT is very stealthy on the street no loud exhaust,big lumpy cam etc.

Remember you keep bringing up nitrous to help you hold off the TT (Last time I checked it is considered a power adder and only good for a short time) or catch it. Nitrous is definately very powerful I bet you would also have to get car pointed straight before you spray it, plus how long would it or the engine last on a roadcourse event if you had to spray it everylap?

No flames intended just what I believe.

Les

slamar1

kumar75150

whats the point of this thread again?

SS930

This has to be one of the most gay threads I've read in a LONG time. I feel like I could be reading this on "ricer.com"!


#001, good luck with your quest.

The One

#001 2001 Z06

"The people who buy these kits did so because they wanted wretched excess and enjoy roasting a set of 345s at 100mph. FORCED INDUCTION RULES also a 427 TT is very stealthy on the street no loud exhaust,big lumpy cam etc."

This Is A Big Misconception

My Z06 is fairly quiet as I put back on the stock exhaust. As far roasting tires, remind me not to do that with the 600 Renntech CL, the 600 Renntech S, The Vanquish and the 575M.

People that own high hp car generally enjoy them.

Every person that owns LPE/21MC that I personally know(four of them) drives their car to its limits on a regular basis. In fact, EACH of them has been to the road course as well the strip with their cars. Two of them have video's racing on LPE's site.

I had an LPE ZR1 with a DRM suspension ten years ago. Drove the car to 90% of it's limits every time out.


The point of this thread was clearly stated in it's title, "N/A vs. Forced Induction." However, here is a restatement of a prior post.

"Comparision of real world results of N/A vs. F/I.
Real world acceleration, reliabilty, streetabily, race wortheness, braking, handling, money, fun factor, ego, whatever someone is willing to bring up by either by personal feeling, information or valid arguement."


As far as the intelligent child like comments from SS930. Unnecessary derogatory comments will be dealt with within the forum guidelines. Mods(savewave/meangreen) please clean this thread. TIA.