98 Nassau Blue 6MT Coupe, New Z06 Clutch, New 3 Rib Diff, More!
05-22-2014, 12:28 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
98 Nassau Blue 6MT Coupe, New Z06 Clutch, New 3 Rib Diff, More!
Important Details: 1998 Nassau Coupe, Manual Transmission
Location: Easton/Lehigh Valley area, PA 18042 Area Code
Mileage: 117,XXX
Asking Price: $15,000 OBO
Reason: Just installed Z06 clutch, 3-Rib diff, tons of other recent mechanical work
For sale is my 1998 Corvette Coupe VIN 1G1YY22G4W5105551 with a six-speed manual transmission owned by me as my commuter car for the last three years. Beautiful car, garaged, fun to drive, and has never left me stranded. However, some of its parts needed replacing, so I've taken PTO next week for a stay-cation to sort out its mechanical bits that have seen some wear. The car will get lots of new parts next week, then be ready for viewing/test driving/buying in the Eastern Lehigh valley area next weekend. What it's getting in the coming week of 5/24:
C5 Z06 Clutch, flywheel, and throw-out bearing
C5 Z06 3.42 3-Rib Differential to replace the old whiner
New rear axle seals
New Slave Clutch Cylinder
New Master Clutch Cylinder
New Torque Tube Bushings
New Fuel Filter
New Speed Bleeder from Tick
CAGS Eliminator with no-cut reversible installation from Compliance
The C5 is a car that I got weeks after graduate school, and I have loved it, but it's time to move on to bigger and better. I don't need the money from selling it, my wife isn't forcing me to sell it, and I'm not out of work or about to lose my house. I'm selling it because I want a C7 Z06 or a C6 ZR1 to take its place. What does that mean for you? I intend to disclose everything about the car, including minor imperfections dealers or eBayers would make you discover after you'd traveled out to see the car and made a bunch of phone calls, or paid for a PPI. My aim is to make this ad comprehensive. I hope someone else will buy this with a complete understanding of what the car is and isn't, never feel for a moment that they got anything but a square deal, and love it just as much as I did.
Here's the car:
Attachment 48372275
Attachment 48372276
Attachment 48372277
Attachment 48372278
Attachment 48372279
Attachment 48372280
Here's what you're here for. The good:
New SoCalVettes custom dry-Carbon Fiber targa top; incredibly light.
New GM OEM targa top weatherstripping (not the cheap eBay crap)
New C5 Z06 clutch/Flywheel/Throw-out
New 3-Rib 3.42 Z06 Differential
New rear axle seals/leaky butt fix
New clutch master cylinder
New clutch slave cylinder
New tick clutch speed bleeder
New torque tube bushings
New fuel filter
New throttle position sensor
New Cags eliminator
00-04 TPMS sensor update from GM Parts House
New air filters
C6 Z06 Shocks
Metal sway bar end links
Replaced Starter (<5,000 miles)
Replaced Oil Pressure Sending Unit with brass aftermarket model (<12,000 miles)
4 tires with <8000 miles of suburban commuting on them. Never burnt or slid, I knew I was selling the car when I got them.
C5 magnesium competition wheels
Compliance column lock bypass performed successfully
C5 Z06 Titanium Exhaust
All the "alien pods" emptied and cleaned, and all the electrical grounds cleaned
Unfortunately, I did commute in this car, so it currently has 117XXX miles on it. As a result, it has a few problems. These are, in their totality:
Scrapes under the front bumper from the previous owner
A chip in the passenger's side door about the size of a nickel from kicking up a rock. Filled in with touch-up and clear; not visible from 4 feet away
A single spider line on the rear bumper that is hard to catch on film even with a DSLR, seen in a picture below
Driver's seat sometimes requires force to be exerted against it by pushing off against the dead pedal to start it going back. All other directions work.
Passenger side window grinds a bit going down. It's done this for years, the problem is a faulty regulator. It has never failed to go down and up again.
AC controls are dim. Still blows ice cold and works great.
The magnesium wheels have some paint chips in them. They've never been curbed, the original finish is just deteriorated in places.
Car was involved in an accident in the 90's according to Carfax and Auto-Check. No sign of the damage, including with the car up and panels off. Has always run and tracked straight, and has been driven 80,000 miles since then without issue. I have the autocheck printout for you for free if you want, but of course, I would always encourage you to get your own as well for your own peace of mind.
Pictures of problem areas:
Chin scrapes:
Attachment 48372281
Passenger door chip:
Attachment 48372282
The line on the decklid that's hard to capture in pictures:
Attachment 48372283
Finally got it from a slightly different angle:
Attachment 48372284
Album with 70 images:
http://imgur.com/a/AqGUr
Car comes with two new 00-04 fobs, two keys, manuals, original fuel door in perfect shape, Weatherite waterproof breathable outdoor car cover with cable lock and key that I used on trips (4-5 uses in 2 years, cost $250.00), 4 blue aluminum Elite Engineering jacking pucks and a DC-powered tire pump. Engine idles flat as a table, never overheats, oil always changed at 10% left on the computer with Mobil 1, car always fueled with name brand 93 octane gas. Have many receipts for my ownership+a few for around $3,000 in work that the previous owner had done (I think it was fuel tanks, emergency brake rebuild, and a few other things, I'll have to look). Car has never, not once in two years and 35,000 ish miles of driving, failed to start and drive the instant I turned the key. Pick it up, drive it to the tip of South America or the Arctic Circle. It's stronger now than when I bought it.
Asking price $15,000
Most of the drive train is being replaced, so you're going to be set for the next good for the next 50,000-60,000 miles in terms of major mechanical repairs. Oil always changed at 10% left with Mobil 1, full 2-stage paste wax and clay every two weeks in the winter and every month in the summer, not driven in salt, stored in climate controlled garage. Purchase includes four blue aluminum Elite Engineering C5 jacking pucks and a $250 weatherite waterproof car outdoor car cover that I used when I took the car to the Birkshires for vacation every year and to protect it from bumps by human traffic in the garage. Solid car, no CELS, no excuses. Did all the work myself, so you know this thing has been well maintained. Contact me here or by PM if interested.
Location: Easton/Lehigh Valley area, PA 18042 Area Code
Mileage: 117,XXX
Asking Price: $15,000 OBO
Reason: Just installed Z06 clutch, 3-Rib diff, tons of other recent mechanical work
For sale is my 1998 Corvette Coupe VIN 1G1YY22G4W5105551 with a six-speed manual transmission owned by me as my commuter car for the last three years. Beautiful car, garaged, fun to drive, and has never left me stranded. However, some of its parts needed replacing, so I've taken PTO next week for a stay-cation to sort out its mechanical bits that have seen some wear. The car will get lots of new parts next week, then be ready for viewing/test driving/buying in the Eastern Lehigh valley area next weekend. What it's getting in the coming week of 5/24:
C5 Z06 Clutch, flywheel, and throw-out bearing
C5 Z06 3.42 3-Rib Differential to replace the old whiner
New rear axle seals
New Slave Clutch Cylinder
New Master Clutch Cylinder
New Torque Tube Bushings
New Fuel Filter
New Speed Bleeder from Tick
CAGS Eliminator with no-cut reversible installation from Compliance
The C5 is a car that I got weeks after graduate school, and I have loved it, but it's time to move on to bigger and better. I don't need the money from selling it, my wife isn't forcing me to sell it, and I'm not out of work or about to lose my house. I'm selling it because I want a C7 Z06 or a C6 ZR1 to take its place. What does that mean for you? I intend to disclose everything about the car, including minor imperfections dealers or eBayers would make you discover after you'd traveled out to see the car and made a bunch of phone calls, or paid for a PPI. My aim is to make this ad comprehensive. I hope someone else will buy this with a complete understanding of what the car is and isn't, never feel for a moment that they got anything but a square deal, and love it just as much as I did.
Here's the car:
Attachment 48372275
Attachment 48372276
Attachment 48372277
Attachment 48372278
Attachment 48372279
Attachment 48372280
Here's what you're here for. The good:
New SoCalVettes custom dry-Carbon Fiber targa top; incredibly light.
New GM OEM targa top weatherstripping (not the cheap eBay crap)
New C5 Z06 clutch/Flywheel/Throw-out
New 3-Rib 3.42 Z06 Differential
New rear axle seals/leaky butt fix
New clutch master cylinder
New clutch slave cylinder
New tick clutch speed bleeder
New torque tube bushings
New fuel filter
New throttle position sensor
New Cags eliminator
00-04 TPMS sensor update from GM Parts House
New air filters
C6 Z06 Shocks
Metal sway bar end links
Replaced Starter (<5,000 miles)
Replaced Oil Pressure Sending Unit with brass aftermarket model (<12,000 miles)
4 tires with <8000 miles of suburban commuting on them. Never burnt or slid, I knew I was selling the car when I got them.
C5 magnesium competition wheels
Compliance column lock bypass performed successfully
C5 Z06 Titanium Exhaust
All the "alien pods" emptied and cleaned, and all the electrical grounds cleaned
Unfortunately, I did commute in this car, so it currently has 117XXX miles on it. As a result, it has a few problems. These are, in their totality:
Scrapes under the front bumper from the previous owner
A chip in the passenger's side door about the size of a nickel from kicking up a rock. Filled in with touch-up and clear; not visible from 4 feet away
A single spider line on the rear bumper that is hard to catch on film even with a DSLR, seen in a picture below
Driver's seat sometimes requires force to be exerted against it by pushing off against the dead pedal to start it going back. All other directions work.
Passenger side window grinds a bit going down. It's done this for years, the problem is a faulty regulator. It has never failed to go down and up again.
AC controls are dim. Still blows ice cold and works great.
The magnesium wheels have some paint chips in them. They've never been curbed, the original finish is just deteriorated in places.
Car was involved in an accident in the 90's according to Carfax and Auto-Check. No sign of the damage, including with the car up and panels off. Has always run and tracked straight, and has been driven 80,000 miles since then without issue. I have the autocheck printout for you for free if you want, but of course, I would always encourage you to get your own as well for your own peace of mind.
Pictures of problem areas:
Chin scrapes:
Attachment 48372281
Passenger door chip:
Attachment 48372282
The line on the decklid that's hard to capture in pictures:
Attachment 48372283
Finally got it from a slightly different angle:
Attachment 48372284
Album with 70 images:
http://imgur.com/a/AqGUr
Car comes with two new 00-04 fobs, two keys, manuals, original fuel door in perfect shape, Weatherite waterproof breathable outdoor car cover with cable lock and key that I used on trips (4-5 uses in 2 years, cost $250.00), 4 blue aluminum Elite Engineering jacking pucks and a DC-powered tire pump. Engine idles flat as a table, never overheats, oil always changed at 10% left on the computer with Mobil 1, car always fueled with name brand 93 octane gas. Have many receipts for my ownership+a few for around $3,000 in work that the previous owner had done (I think it was fuel tanks, emergency brake rebuild, and a few other things, I'll have to look). Car has never, not once in two years and 35,000 ish miles of driving, failed to start and drive the instant I turned the key. Pick it up, drive it to the tip of South America or the Arctic Circle. It's stronger now than when I bought it.
Asking price $15,000
Most of the drive train is being replaced, so you're going to be set for the next good for the next 50,000-60,000 miles in terms of major mechanical repairs. Oil always changed at 10% left with Mobil 1, full 2-stage paste wax and clay every two weeks in the winter and every month in the summer, not driven in salt, stored in climate controlled garage. Purchase includes four blue aluminum Elite Engineering C5 jacking pucks and a $250 weatherite waterproof car outdoor car cover that I used when I took the car to the Birkshires for vacation every year and to protect it from bumps by human traffic in the garage. Solid car, no CELS, no excuses. Did all the work myself, so you know this thing has been well maintained. Contact me here or by PM if interested.
Last edited by Endeka; 05-25-2014 at 01:38 PM.
08-02-2014, 12:27 AM
#6
Did you fill the emblem holes on the nose and paint it?
Which torque tube bushings are you doing? Make sure to follow the procedure to the T on re-installing the bolts. They need loc-tite and proper torque or they can back out. Which Slave/TOB did you isntall? The latest spec one?
Which torque tube bushings are you doing? Make sure to follow the procedure to the T on re-installing the bolts. They need loc-tite and proper torque or they can back out. Which Slave/TOB did you isntall? The latest spec one?