1998 Nassau Blue Coupe 6MT $12K Pennsylvania
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
1998 Nassau Blue Coupe 6MT $12K Pennsylvania
For sale is my 1998 Nassau Blue Corvette coupe with 116,XXX miles on it, 6 speed manual transmission. Got this car two years ago when I got out of grad school. I drove it regularly for about a year except in snow, when I take my 2000 Neon beater. This year it's been driven about 3 times a week, the rest I carpool with my wife in her Gen 1 Insight. Things have been going very well for my wife and I financially, so I'm looking into buying either a 2011+ Z07 Z06 or a Viper ACR.
Hoping to get around $12,000. Located in Hatfield, PA, a northern suburb of Philadelphia.
Here's the car:
Attachment 48372275
Attachment 48372276
Attachment 48372277
Attachment 48372278
Attachment 48372279
Attachment 48372280
Car has the following mods/recent part replacements:
(The Good)
SoCalVettes dry carbon fiber targa top
Carbon fiber wrapped fuel door
Carbon fiber-like adhesive letters front/rear
Real Carbon fiber windshield pillar blades
aftermarket oil-pressure sending unit with 10,000 miles on it.
C5 Z06 Titanium Exhaust (Just purchased from forum member, looks+sounds nice)
C6 Z06 Shocks (5,000 miles on them)
2001+ Metal swaybar end links from GM Parts House (3,000ish miles on them)
Optional OEM magnesium wheels
Firestone Y-rated tires replaced last winter (6,000ish miles on them). I have never once burnt or slid them, because I knew I was going to be selling the car soon. The tread is very, very deep.
Brand new GM Parts house 2001+ TPMS conversion with 6,000 miles on it.
Brand new OEM delco starter replaced in the winter.
Brand new A/C blower motor. AC blows painfully cold on max.
Euro tail lights
Compliance parts column lock bypass kit installed.
Compliance CAGS+light kit not installed, but can include with the car. May install tomorrow if I can finish helping my sister move into her new apartment while it's still daylight.
Brand new GM OEM targa top weatherstripping (not Chinese aftermarket, the $150/side OEM rubber) installed last winter.
Oil+Filter just changed, always Mobil 1 Synthetic.
The bad:
Was a daily driver, and does have over 100,000 miles, so despite my best efforts, it does have some problems:
Car has, to the best of my knowledge, the original clutch. It does not grind while shifting and does not pop out of gear.
The car has scuffing under the nose, and a fair number of stone speckles on the nose, with a few chips on the hood:
Attachment 48372281
The car's hood gap is slightly uneven by the headlights. You have to bend over the gap to spot it.
Car was in an accident on 4/9/2001, 12 years ago. Autocheck does not report any frame damage, and the car was just aligned when I got the tires on, runs straight as an arrow. I've never had a day of trouble with it, and have been over, under, and inside it without spotting any obvious repairs to the frame but it's possible that the slight hood gap is the result of this accident.
Car has a dig that's been touched up in the passenger's side door, about the length and width of the last joint on a pinky finger. I drove over a stone the size of a waffle that had fallen off cliff wall in the rain one night:
Attachment 48372282
Car has a spidering white line on the rear decklid. It is completely invisible at some angles, but becomes more distinct if you look at it the right way:
Attachment 48372283
Attachment 48372284
The wheels on the car need to be refinished. They look great except for kneeling right beside them, and there's no curbing, but the gold finish has started to chip off along the edges, and some of the chips that were touched up were up to an inch long, so pretty big. There was also a scratch-ring on the inside of one of the front wheel barrels when I bought the wheels from a forum member last year, he must have sucked something up in his caliper and rolled it around a few times. It's not very deep, and the wheel's integrity is not affected.
Seats have some bolster wear, but no holes.
Fuel gauge had the C5 level malfunction a couple of months ago after a fill-up. I put techron in and let it sit for two weeks while I was on a business trip. Problem has not recurred since June.
Car threw a code for the p1416 air check valve last spring. Hit it with carb cleaner fix, hasn't come back since then either.
Driver's seat motor is sluggish in adjusting only backwards, not in the other directions. If you get out of the seat, or use your feet to give it a little start, it moves right away.
Car's differential whines in 6th gear when cruising at light throttle. It's quiet enough that it isn't noticeable with the radio on normal volume or even with the AC on high, and definitely can't be heard over the exhaust in lower gears.
Car's passenger side window regulator makes a grinding noise when going down, and has for the last two years. It hasn't stuck yet, and I take the top off any time it's over 60 degrees, but that should probably be replaced.
Car comes with two keys, two remotes, manuals, original fuel door in perfect shape, mint condition Weatherite waterproof breathable outdoor car cover with cable lock and key that I used on trips (6ish uses in 2 years, cost $250.00), 4 blue aluminum Elite Engineering jacking pucks and a DC-powered tire pump. Engine idles flat as a table, never overheats, oil always changed at 10% left on the computer with Mobil 1, car always fueled with name brand 93 octane gas. Have receipts for my whole ownership+a few for around $3,000 in work that the previous owner had done (I think it was fuel tanks, emergency brake rebuild, and a few other things, I'll have to look). Car has never, not once in two years and 25,000 ish miles of driving, failed to start and drive the instant I turned the key. Pick it up, drive it anywhere you can reach by road.
Album with 70 Images:
http://imgur.com/a/AqGUr
PM, or Call/text: two-one-5/eight-6-9/eight zero 53.
A word about pricing: My family's good fortunes are a double edged sword: Because I would never miss the value of this car, I have zero incentive to bulls--t about anything. Every single problem the car has that I know about, I've put down and tried to photograph/describe for you. I love these cars, the Corvette community has been a huge blessing to me, and I want to make sure that the next owner of this car is as satisfied as I was when I got it. I have confidence that I'd be able to look the next owner in the eye and say hello whenever and wherever we should happen to meet after the deal
The other edge of the sword is that, because I don't need the money or to get rid of the car, I'm really not interested in entertaining lowball offers. I'm a business man, and I understand that part of deals is flexibility and discussion, but I won't even humor offers below $10,000 with a response. I've been shopping for a new car for the last six months, using every online resource known to man, so I know exactly what this car is worth. Happy to sell, but let's be straightforward!
Edit: Interior pics:
More
Engine:
Hoping to get around $12,000. Located in Hatfield, PA, a northern suburb of Philadelphia.
Here's the car:
Attachment 48372275
Attachment 48372276
Attachment 48372277
Attachment 48372278
Attachment 48372279
Attachment 48372280
Car has the following mods/recent part replacements:
(The Good)
SoCalVettes dry carbon fiber targa top
Carbon fiber wrapped fuel door
Carbon fiber-like adhesive letters front/rear
Real Carbon fiber windshield pillar blades
aftermarket oil-pressure sending unit with 10,000 miles on it.
C5 Z06 Titanium Exhaust (Just purchased from forum member, looks+sounds nice)
C6 Z06 Shocks (5,000 miles on them)
2001+ Metal swaybar end links from GM Parts House (3,000ish miles on them)
Optional OEM magnesium wheels
Firestone Y-rated tires replaced last winter (6,000ish miles on them). I have never once burnt or slid them, because I knew I was going to be selling the car soon. The tread is very, very deep.
Brand new GM Parts house 2001+ TPMS conversion with 6,000 miles on it.
Brand new OEM delco starter replaced in the winter.
Brand new A/C blower motor. AC blows painfully cold on max.
Euro tail lights
Compliance parts column lock bypass kit installed.
Compliance CAGS+light kit not installed, but can include with the car. May install tomorrow if I can finish helping my sister move into her new apartment while it's still daylight.
Brand new GM OEM targa top weatherstripping (not Chinese aftermarket, the $150/side OEM rubber) installed last winter.
Oil+Filter just changed, always Mobil 1 Synthetic.
The bad:
Was a daily driver, and does have over 100,000 miles, so despite my best efforts, it does have some problems:
Car has, to the best of my knowledge, the original clutch. It does not grind while shifting and does not pop out of gear.
The car has scuffing under the nose, and a fair number of stone speckles on the nose, with a few chips on the hood:
Attachment 48372281
The car's hood gap is slightly uneven by the headlights. You have to bend over the gap to spot it.
Car was in an accident on 4/9/2001, 12 years ago. Autocheck does not report any frame damage, and the car was just aligned when I got the tires on, runs straight as an arrow. I've never had a day of trouble with it, and have been over, under, and inside it without spotting any obvious repairs to the frame but it's possible that the slight hood gap is the result of this accident.
Car has a dig that's been touched up in the passenger's side door, about the length and width of the last joint on a pinky finger. I drove over a stone the size of a waffle that had fallen off cliff wall in the rain one night:
Attachment 48372282
Car has a spidering white line on the rear decklid. It is completely invisible at some angles, but becomes more distinct if you look at it the right way:
Attachment 48372283
Attachment 48372284
The wheels on the car need to be refinished. They look great except for kneeling right beside them, and there's no curbing, but the gold finish has started to chip off along the edges, and some of the chips that were touched up were up to an inch long, so pretty big. There was also a scratch-ring on the inside of one of the front wheel barrels when I bought the wheels from a forum member last year, he must have sucked something up in his caliper and rolled it around a few times. It's not very deep, and the wheel's integrity is not affected.
Seats have some bolster wear, but no holes.
Fuel gauge had the C5 level malfunction a couple of months ago after a fill-up. I put techron in and let it sit for two weeks while I was on a business trip. Problem has not recurred since June.
Car threw a code for the p1416 air check valve last spring. Hit it with carb cleaner fix, hasn't come back since then either.
Driver's seat motor is sluggish in adjusting only backwards, not in the other directions. If you get out of the seat, or use your feet to give it a little start, it moves right away.
Car's differential whines in 6th gear when cruising at light throttle. It's quiet enough that it isn't noticeable with the radio on normal volume or even with the AC on high, and definitely can't be heard over the exhaust in lower gears.
Car's passenger side window regulator makes a grinding noise when going down, and has for the last two years. It hasn't stuck yet, and I take the top off any time it's over 60 degrees, but that should probably be replaced.
Car comes with two keys, two remotes, manuals, original fuel door in perfect shape, mint condition Weatherite waterproof breathable outdoor car cover with cable lock and key that I used on trips (6ish uses in 2 years, cost $250.00), 4 blue aluminum Elite Engineering jacking pucks and a DC-powered tire pump. Engine idles flat as a table, never overheats, oil always changed at 10% left on the computer with Mobil 1, car always fueled with name brand 93 octane gas. Have receipts for my whole ownership+a few for around $3,000 in work that the previous owner had done (I think it was fuel tanks, emergency brake rebuild, and a few other things, I'll have to look). Car has never, not once in two years and 25,000 ish miles of driving, failed to start and drive the instant I turned the key. Pick it up, drive it anywhere you can reach by road.
Album with 70 Images:
http://imgur.com/a/AqGUr
PM, or Call/text: two-one-5/eight-6-9/eight zero 53.
A word about pricing: My family's good fortunes are a double edged sword: Because I would never miss the value of this car, I have zero incentive to bulls--t about anything. Every single problem the car has that I know about, I've put down and tried to photograph/describe for you. I love these cars, the Corvette community has been a huge blessing to me, and I want to make sure that the next owner of this car is as satisfied as I was when I got it. I have confidence that I'd be able to look the next owner in the eye and say hello whenever and wherever we should happen to meet after the deal
The other edge of the sword is that, because I don't need the money or to get rid of the car, I'm really not interested in entertaining lowball offers. I'm a business man, and I understand that part of deals is flexibility and discussion, but I won't even humor offers below $10,000 with a response. I've been shopping for a new car for the last six months, using every online resource known to man, so I know exactly what this car is worth. Happy to sell, but let's be straightforward!
Edit: Interior pics:
More
Engine:
Last edited by Endeka; 10-29-2013 at 06:35 PM.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
It really is a wonderful car, the color pops like you wouldn't believe. The Z06 parts make it feel tighter and lighter on its feet than when I got it. Every time I leave work, I pass a middle school that's lining up for busses, and there's a huge group of kids that run to the fence and yell "awesome car" and "make it roar." Feels really cool.
Like I said, I feel like the guy I brought it from gave me something great that I knew everything about, I want to disclose everything so that the next owner feels the same way.
Like I said, I feel like the guy I brought it from gave me something great that I knew everything about, I want to disclose everything so that the next owner feels the same way.
#4
What a great post, agree all for sale ads should be this way. Not in the market at the moment unfortunately, but I would have to strongly consider this if I was, love that color and those wheels compliment it well! Good luck!
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for the support anyway. Guys, I really have tried to lay out every single flaw, even the ones you'd never have spotted. Don't let it scare you, the car is still great to drive and own. A woman at WAWA just yesterday said "Oh, bul----t" when she asked about it and I told her it was fifteen years old.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'll grab some interior photos and upload them tomorrow. I'm actually out until after dark tonight, and you know how the C5's cabin lighting is. It's black/black.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hey everyone!
First, I want to apologize profusely for my being out of touch for the last couple of days. The husband of my assistant just got transferred to Atlanta, and so she left very abruptly. I'm now finding out exactly how much she did-I've been leaving for the office at 6:30AM every morning, getting home between 6:30 and 9:00PM every night. I know a bunch of different people have called, I will return those calls during business hours tomorrow. I rushed home as fast as humanly possible to catch the last rays of daylight for the interior pics (sorry for cell-quality too). Thanks for being understanding.
First, I want to apologize profusely for my being out of touch for the last couple of days. The husband of my assistant just got transferred to Atlanta, and so she left very abruptly. I'm now finding out exactly how much she did-I've been leaving for the office at 6:30AM every morning, getting home between 6:30 and 9:00PM every night. I know a bunch of different people have called, I will return those calls during business hours tomorrow. I rushed home as fast as humanly possible to catch the last rays of daylight for the interior pics (sorry for cell-quality too). Thanks for being understanding.
Last edited by Endeka; 10-29-2013 at 10:08 PM.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
My Corvette mechanic told me it wasn't an urgent need, and the sound hasn't changed in two years, but quoted me $1,800.00 for the whole job, including labor, obviously. The condition and noise of it has not changed while I've owned it; I change the fluid every year and check for metal fragments or anything that might indicate advanced deterioration, so far, nothing.
You can also buy a 3-rib (better) differential off of Ebay, gently used, for about $800 and have it installed, you can even get them with the transmission attached for about $1200 used. I'd bump it up to a 3-rib and sell the old one for parts if I was keeping the car. It might even be possible to combine the labor of the clutch and diff replacement, to a degree, since the whole rear end has to be pulled to do the clutch anyway. I don't know that though, I'm not a shop.
You can also buy a 3-rib (better) differential off of Ebay, gently used, for about $800 and have it installed, you can even get them with the transmission attached for about $1200 used. I'd bump it up to a 3-rib and sell the old one for parts if I was keeping the car. It might even be possible to combine the labor of the clutch and diff replacement, to a degree, since the whole rear end has to be pulled to do the clutch anyway. I don't know that though, I'm not a shop.
Last edited by Endeka; 11-02-2013 at 04:07 PM.