Buying a ZR-1
#1
Intermediate
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Location: Oklahoma City OK
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Buying a ZR-1
I am planning a trip this weekend to pick up a ZR-1. I have been looking for many months and finally found what I wanted. I have reached a deal with the second owner on a 1993 mostly stock ZR-1 in "mint" condition (30K miles). I own a 93 LT-1 so I am aware of the typical C4 issues. I am looking for insight on any additional ZR-1 specific issues that I need to look at or watch out for. I have looked through the ZR1.net (a very helpful resource).
Feel free to send me an e-mail or post here if you have any thoughts on the matter. Thanks in advance.
I will, of course, post my impressions after I complete the purchase and drive it home...
This was my first post - I just had to start on the ZR-1 discussion area.
Feel free to send me an e-mail or post here if you have any thoughts on the matter. Thanks in advance.
I will, of course, post my impressions after I complete the purchase and drive it home...
This was my first post - I just had to start on the ZR-1 discussion area.
#2
Some items to check:
Spark Plug Wires - OEM set run you over $300.00 just for wires although aftermarket would probably be $40-80.
Coil Packs (say goodbye to the opti from the LT1)
Starter Motor
Alternator
Vac. Leaks
Stains on Motor - won't come out.
Check all maintenance Records
Listen for noise from Tranny - IE throwout bearing and Rearend.
Check all other C4 items, weatherstrip, bose radio AC head unit etc etc
Spark Plug Wires - OEM set run you over $300.00 just for wires although aftermarket would probably be $40-80.
Coil Packs (say goodbye to the opti from the LT1)
Starter Motor
Alternator
Vac. Leaks
Stains on Motor - won't come out.
Check all maintenance Records
Listen for noise from Tranny - IE throwout bearing and Rearend.
Check all other C4 items, weatherstrip, bose radio AC head unit etc etc
#3
Drifting
Originally Posted by MPH in OKC
I am planning a trip this weekend to pick up a ZR-1. ........ 1993 mostly stock ZR-1 in "mint" condition (30K miles).
Feel free to send me an e-mail or post here if you have any thoughts on the matter. Thanks in advance.
Feel free to send me an e-mail or post here if you have any thoughts on the matter. Thanks in advance.
I'm the Oklahoma State Director for the ZR-1 Net Registry and would be glad to help you in any way I can. I would also encourage you to join the ZR-1 Net Registry. Here's a link for you to check it out. It's the new & expanded club from the former ZR-1.net.
Let me know if I can be of any help to you.
Jerry
#4
Le Mans Master
the lt5 is a seriously reliable engine. the vacuum system and secondaries can be a bit problematic, and basic maint like changing the coil packs, wires, ect & you will join the plenum pull club.
overall the typical c4 stuff can be a bit annoying, and the car has a strange tendancy to draw huge speeding tickets and eat rear tires.
it also tends to plaster big unremovable stupid grins
congrats, I encourage you to join up the zr1 net registry.
overall the typical c4 stuff can be a bit annoying, and the car has a strange tendancy to draw huge speeding tickets and eat rear tires.
it also tends to plaster big unremovable stupid grins
congrats, I encourage you to join up the zr1 net registry.
#6
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Dixon Ca
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The only problem I'm having is trying to remove the permanent from my face. This is a serious issue when you own a ZR-1.
Last edited by 91vetteboy; 11-02-2004 at 12:00 AM.
#7
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Great tips and awesome input - but, I guess I expected nothing less. I do plan to join the ZR1 net registry. And, I will keep you all posted as I join the ZR1 ranks. Thanks again to all.
How do I check the coil packs? If they are failing what will be the clearest sign (rough idle, hesitation...)?
How do I check the coil packs? If they are failing what will be the clearest sign (rough idle, hesitation...)?
#8
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by MPH in OKC
How do I check the coil packs? If they are failing what will be the clearest sign (rough idle, hesitation...)?
Tyler
#9
Team Owner
Originally Posted by MPH in OKC
Great tips and awesome input - but, I guess I expected nothing less. I do plan to join the ZR1 net registry. And, I will keep you all posted as I join the ZR1 ranks. Thanks again to all.
How do I check the coil packs? If they are failing what will be the clearest sign (rough idle, hesitation...)?
How do I check the coil packs? If they are failing what will be the clearest sign (rough idle, hesitation...)?
Hesitation in 6th gear under load is the typical symptom - or a high rpm mis-fire.
Truthfully, the stock coil packs are very high quality, as are the stock ignition wires, so don't worry too much about them.
One thing to take note of is the secondary vacuum pump. It is designed to provide a vacuum to the secondary actuators when at WOT for a long dwell period (WOT in 4th or 5th - on your way to 180 mph) when manifold vacuum is minimal. The test is to switch the key to the 'on' position, and not start the car. You'll hear the fuel pumps buzz, and a few other things. Now - wait a few seconds (or a minute) with the hood up - and soon you'll hear the secondary vacuum pump kick in - it is located beside the pass. side headlight bucket - How long does it run? How long between cycles? If it runs constantly, you have a massive vacuum leak in the secondary actuator system that will necessitate pulling the plenum to locate the source of the leak. The longer the cycle between on periods for the pump, the tighter the secondary vacuum system. You only need a few seconds between cycles though, as the pump shuts off with 10 psi of vacuum present in the system, while only about 5 psi are necessary to hold the secondaries open. It is easy to check, and will impact the performance of the vehicle.