Bans25

Hi All,

I am planning ahead before I pull my intake and inj housing for P&P..
I also plan on pulling the cam covers for powder coating..

I want to put a list together of parts/gaskets etc that I will need,
and also want to put new wires on (What do you guys suggest for wires).
I have no vacuum leaks now, should I just leave the lines alone or replace when I am in there? The starter was replaced right before I bought the car so I am not goign to replace that.

any help is appreciated..

-Bill

P.s. Who should I send the plenum and inj housings to for the P&P?

locobob

You'll need plenum and injector housing gaskets - plenum gaskets might be reusable but I'd play it safe and get a set in case they are not. For the cam covers you'll need new dowdy washers for the bolts, 8 O-rings for the spark plug holes, and a bottle or two of PermaLok A136 flange sealant. If I were you I'd go ahead and get some new plastic end caps as well but you can reuse the old ones. You also may need some of that stuff that keeps oil out of the breathers, can't remember what it's called but it looks like a piece of scotch brite pad. Get some new cam cover bolts ( Kurt sells some nice stainless ones). If you don't want to replace all the bolts at least get a couple for spares because chances are you'll ruin one or two when you take them out. You'll also need some dielectric grease for remounting the ignition module to the plenum. Lot's of things you can do while the plenum is off: vacuum lines, actuators, plug wires ect ect. Just depends on your buget and how often you want to pull the plenum. Thats all I can think of right now, probably forgot a thing or two.

White 68

I,d replace the cylinder case ventilation baffle cover gasket .....My bolts were all loose on this cover and caused the gasket to leak ...The manual also says to use Loctite 262 on the bolt threads..10Nm (89 lb. in ) Also the Cylinder case ventilation hoses ....And check the torque on every bolt you can reach while in there....
I,ve been told that Jim Milstead is the most resonable on price as far as port/polish ....I bet The Lurker knows how to contact him '''''' :D


[Modified by White 68, 4:28 PM 7/7/2003]

Jeffvette

Bill, if do want to rpelace the gasket for the oil baffle, make sure the area is completely clean of any debris before you remove it. As any dirt/debris will fall down into the rotating assembly. Take a screw driver to get most of it loose and then vacuum it up, use brake cleaner and a rag to get the rest.

Also as a side note, use this time to replace coolant hoses and do a thurough cleaning elsewhere on the motor.

A26B

As a side note to this excellent recommendation: When doing coolant hoses, do not forget the 5/16 hoses that connect to the throttle body. I had the long one on the pass side rupture the other night and it literally filled the valley under the plenum up. Of course it split pointing right into the plenum. Needless to say starter was dead, but managed to push start it to get it home. Did start a couple of days later but not like it used to. Just gotta get around to pulling plenum, coils, starter & cleaning up. Replacing starter to keep from getting stranded.

Thinking about bypassing the throttle body. I saw a couple of big inch LPE cars @ BG that bypassed throttle body.

What about using some sort of stainless flex line instead of the rubber ones? Anyone ever done this?


[Modified by A26B, 8:44 PM 7/7/2003]

locobob

Forgot something: You'll need a pair of coolant pipe gaskets also.

Throttle body coolant bypass: This was dicussed on the ZR-1 net listserve a while back. Some issues that came up were icing and the air bleed system. Search the ZR-1 net archives for more info.

BiZ

Kurt White http://www.whiteracingproducts.com sells a nice top end gasket kit that has just about all of the gaskets and O-rings you will need. If you siamese the plenum you will need to trim the gaskets to fit.


[Modified by BiZ, 9:10 PM 7/7/2003]