Z Factor

Most of the details of the car are irrelevant to my question. The miles are ok, and I will be having a ZR1 mechanic look it over who as actually worked on it in the past.

Here's the sticking point. About 5 years ago, the previous owner decided to upgrade the cams from stock 91 to stock 95. Something went wrong (I believe a tensioner gave out) and the engine needed a rebuild. It required a new head, valves, liners, two pistons, sleeves, timing chain, tensioner guide, etc. It was put back together by a ZR1 certified dealer and it is seemingly running fine now. It actually only has 3000 miles on it since the rebuild from 5 years ago. The guy has been completely up front about all this, and I confirmed that the above was repaired at the dealer like he said.

So, if an LT5 has had internal engine problems like this one, should I consider buying it? My concern is potential problems down the road.

One other thing I forgot to mention. I believe the previous owner did autocross racing with it. My understanding is that it's no big deal, but I want to mention it so you could give me an informed opinion.

THANKS :)

BiZ

Hats off to the owner for being honest with you. That can be rare these days. I wouldn't be afraid of buying the car once driven and checked out. If you think about it, if you were to go and buy a 368" ZR-1 you would also be buying a rebuilt LT5. Granted it was pretty much completely rebuilt. But the same situation. It realy comes down to how the car behaves. Go drive it and let the mechanic look at it. If rebuilt correctly there should be no problem.

DDSLT5

I'm with Jason - have a drive, if it feels good and the mechanic says it is sound, then don't expect to pay any less for it. It is basically a brand new engine if the rebuild was done properly.

:flag

4cefed

There a plenty of ZR1's around that do not have a "story " and are really priced to sell. Look around and don't be in a hurry to buy one. You will never regret doing that.

shor

You say pistons were replaced, but only two? Was any boring done? I would be more comfortable with a complete take down and rebuild as opposed to two pistons. What damage was done? Sounds like a valvetrain failure that probably damaged the tops of those two pistons. Tolerences and clearences on this engine are critical. If indeed something "fell on top of the piston"and was big enough to damage/destroy it I would have concerns as far as the bottom end of those two...did the connecting rod bearings need replacement?? that is the "softest point" before the crank. No way to know if the crank isn't "true" still while it's in the car...Does it run perfect????

90 Corvette ZR-1

IMHO I wouldn't buy it. I found my car w/22k on it, no such history on it for 27k a few years ago. At this time ZR-1's were going for the mid 30's. Look around is my opp.

White 68

I would check out the ZR1.net there are plenty of cars at great prices stock and modded ...with no stories behind them...there are 2 368,s that are really nice ....buy the best car in your price range and have fun driving it :yesnod:

DDSLT5

ABSOLUTELY go get a 368 - trust me, you'll do mods to the beast after you get it - and the 368 conversion is expensive and you won't pay much more for one that is already done - and talk about a stout engine once done!!!!!!!! Then you can PILL UP!!!! :flag :flag

mpgk3

I agree too, but then again, I have a 368 ZR-1 with no stories for sale :jester

Sorry for the shameless plug :D

Get the best/newest car you can afford. Deals are great when you first get them, but when you run into problems, it makes you feel sick :U

Mike

Z Factor

Thanks for all the replies so far. Excuse my ignorance, but what is a 368? Is it a moded LT5, and if not are you talking about dropping a diffent engine into a ZR1?

The thing that worries me about the car in question is how will the motor hold up being pushed moderately? I don't intend on pushing it too much, but I want to be able to get on it now and then without fear of major engine repair.

To the poster asking all the questions related to the work, all I know at this point is a tensioner supposedly gave way, which caused the damage. I also think that they had to drop the pan to clean out the metal that might have been in there. Something was also mentioned about a valve hitting something as well.

The vette is priced reasonably for a 91 ZR1 at $18,000 with a new heavy duty clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing etc., and everything is in working order on the car. I just want to make sure I'm not going to be looking at major problems down the road due to it's earlier engine work, or the fact it might have been used in autocross. I see how the poll is going, but I would still like a few more verbal encouragements, or warnings.

THANKS

BiZ

A 368" is a modified LT5. The displacement is brought up to 368 cu in. They generally put out ~540hp. These motors if rebuilt correctly will last a very long time.

DDSLT5

One 368 for sale on the zr1.net is priced aat 36K - but the mods to that car would equal the asking price should you do them today!!!!! This is why I suggest taking a serious look - but I'm also willing to bet that 91 is also a good deal - if there was a question as to the reliability of the engine I'd wager he wouldn't have disclosed this information.

:cool: :cheers: :cool:

Z Factor

Ok, so if a 368 is a moded LT5, then what is a 383 stroker, a 415, and one other engine some ZR1 owners talk about?

DDLTS5

I agree, that revealing that info does show honesty and confidence in the car. Your suggestion about the 368 for 30k is way over what I can afford. I know ZR1's are not cheap, but for me to afford one, it can't be over 22k at the max. Needless to say, that is part of the appeal of this one at around 18k.

DDSLT5

All of the above are increased displacement LT5s. and it is a 385 for the LT5 - the 383 is a popular stroker for a more traditional small block engine. the 385 isn't done much anymore - but is still possible. the 368 is bored only (same crank as stock disp) and the 385/402/408/415/421 all have different cranks - which can run 6-7 K all by themselves!!

Hope this helps some -- keep the questions coming!!

mpgk3

And just to add to the confusion....the 368 engine mods typically run over $20K...just for the engine work and the end result is usually bullet proof. Forged crank, strengthened rods, etc are all part of the package....add some nice headers, a good flowing exhaust, a gear, and you find yourself spending more than the asking price for most of the ZR-1's available out there.

I can honestly say that the asking price for my car is less than the amount of receipts that I have for just the work done to it :eek:

Good luck in your search!

Mike

90 Corvette ZR-1

If the motor was rebuilt corectly you shouldn't have any problems. But if it wasn't your in for some major head aches. If I was you Id take the car out and run it up to 7k in a few gears. Its really hard to form an opponion with out driving the car.

Z Factor

Something is going on here, and I can't quite put my finger on it.

Someone here from the forum IM me asking if the car I was interested in was in Kansas . They said that the one they were interested in had the same exact story behind it as far as the rebuild. I IM'd back to say it was not located in Kansas, and it was an odd coincidence. I wished them luck, and that was it.

Now, I just received an email from the seller, saying sorry, but they just sold the car to someone in Kansas . Tell me that doesn't sound very strange. I would like to get some opinions as to what you think is going on here?

I put a lot of effort, travel arraingments, setting up the inspection, etc. based on my understanding that we had a deal in the works. I am needless to say very disappointed. :confused:


I don't remember the name of the member who IM me here, but if you are reading this I would like to hear from you again.

THANKS

4cefed

I understand your disappointment. However, If you didn't send money to put a deposit on it and a cash buyer came along I would sell the car too. There was no guarantee that you would have bought it after you inspected the car. All's fair in the used car market. Good luck on finding another one. There are plenty out there for your price range.


[Modified by 4cefed, 6:39 PM 11/30/2002]

BiZ

Z-Factor, goto your profile and then to Instant Message History. It saves your IMs for 7 days. You should find what you seek there. And as for the car being sold, it happens, money talks. Unless you gave the seller a deposit nothing is in stone. Sorry.

DaBo

I can shed some more light on this and before it gets out of hand tell my side of the story.

Back on the 24th I had bid on the ZR1 in question. With less than 30 seconds left on the auction, I was outbid by $100.00. Throughout the last day of the auction, I had been exchanging emails with the owner of the car. When the auction was over, I sent him an email congratulating him on the sale and letting him know that I lost by $100.00. I also asked him to contact me if the deal fell through.
Before the auction was over, I started a thread asking for advise on what to look for in a used Z.
He contacted me the next evening telling me that the buyer backed out.
At that point I started talking with VETTEBABE1 about ZR1's and the deal that I may be getting.

On the evening of the 25th, In one of VB1's posts, there was discussion about pricing. It was mentioned that a Z sold on Ebay for $16,100. At this point ZFACTOR asked VB1 for the link.
On the 28th, ZFACTOR started a couple of threads about Z's and traveling to buy a car.

I read zfactors threads and contacted him thinking that it was ironic that we may be looking at the same car. NO, I did not tell zfactor that the car I was looking at was in Oklahoma. At the price and under the circumstances I didnt want a lot of people knowing about the car. (can you blame me??)

Anyway to make a longer story short, I was working with the owner for the whole week, the car was only 2-1/2 hours down the road, and I went down, after making arrangements with the owner, and bought the car this morning .

I am sorry if zfactor feels as if he has been wronged. Based on what little info that we exchanged, and the stories being a bit different, I did not beleive that we were looking at the same car.

Regardless, I feel that in any transaction, the one who comes up with the money first, is the one that gets it. The owner only mentioned that he had several emails and phone calls from people asking about the car. To my knowledge, there were no deposits on the car and the owner had made no promises to hold the car for anyone.