garyguinn

i like the Vapor.........
a lot...

Z51JEFF

I just don’t understand why somebody would spend upwards of $100,000 to build a car and then put boring wheels as most do when they build something like this. The most popular wheel seems to be the cheap chrome aftermarket wheels.

USAZR1

If you like pindrive Kidney Beans, here's two options.
17"
http://psvintagewheels.com/products.html
18"
http://vintagewheelsus.com/index.php...roducts_id=513

I had PS Engineering Kidney Bean pindrive knockoffs in 17x9.5 and 17x13 sizes, on my protouring 69 El Camino.

oldpro

To you on the name . First off the top of my head was money pit . Hmm next might be Big Ben . As putting this baby is like doing a 1500 piece jig saw puzzle😂

garyguinn

Ok, , so after a crazy few weeks, I was able to run thru all 15 resistor codes with the decade box. Twice... no luck..
fast flashing security light after every try. The vats wiring from the column looks original. I can’t find any kind of vats override setup.. so I’m a bit stumped.
She still starts.. so far every time but one... maybe that was a fluke?

Non resistor eye, original wiring from column for vats, don’t see any kind of override....
She starts and the security light does go out about 10-15 seconds after she’s running..
could fast flashing security light mean something else??


anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks,
Gary

DUB

Gary

The "SECURITY" light flashing has nothing to do with the VATS system. The flashing SECURITY light is a part of the UTD ( Universal Theft Deterrent ) system

ANY trouble codes that deal with the VATS system are stored in the CCM/BCM and IF there is a trouble code. "SYS" will flash up on your orange display screen 3 times every 15 seconds.. This will also occur IF there are ANY trouble codes that the CCM/BCM monitor/control

The CCM or BCM controls this light as one of the four outputs when dealing with the theft/VATS systems The CCM/BCM controls the horn relay, starter enable relay, SECURITY light and fuel enable. The CCM/BCM is GROUNDING the circuit to the SECURITY light to make it light up or not. Due to 12+ volts is always on the other terminal of the SECURITY light bulb via the 'LCD' fuse

The flashing of your SECURITY light should be somewhat like you turn signals cadence. NOT a rapid flash like your turn signals can get when you have a burnt out bulb.

The SECURITY light should flash when you open your door. And should remain flashing until you insert your key and turn on the ignition switch to RUN. The engine does NOT need to be running to achieve this. I just checked a 1993 I have in my shop to confirm it

When you turn your ignition key OFF and the door is open. The SECURITY light should flash again....until...you press the power door lock switch to 'LOCK' the doors. The SECURITY light will no longer flash and will be a steady lit up SECURITY light.

When you shut the door the system is now armed and to disarm it you must used the key for the outside door lock. cylinder ( if outside the locked car)....or...if still inside the car use the power door lock switch.

Unless you have the antennas in the door and other areas...it is doubtful that you have 'Pass-Key' and the fob to lock and unlock the car.

It is doubtful that someone has incorporated the switch on the backside of your door lock cylinder for this but it is possible.

Hope this helps you understand the system better Call me again if you need me

"DUB"

garyguinn

Progress tonight.
thanks Dub, I read your entire message, twice. And thank you for the call today.
Looks like a 95 ZR-1 setup.

i was was able to get the driver information center working and cleared the code 13. Still have the code 81
I now have tach, speedo, oil temp, water temp. Still searching for the harness connector for my light switch.
Hopefully wrapped in electrical tape somewhere behind the dash.

garyguinn

ok,more progress,
I removed the fabricated dash top...and found the light switch/fog lamp, traction control wiring buried .
finished the conversion last night of 66 corvette wiring to 94 zr-1 wiring.
now have working marker lights, headlights, tail,brake lights.
next is backup lights and turn signals.
I'm going to powder coat the fabricated dash top and "eyebrows" a textured black for a more finished look.
we'll see how that goes.

Z51JEFF

You might want to take a look at Black Zolotone 20-06. It’s an excellent texture paint,very durable and it looks great. If you can use a gun you can do this yourself. When the headliner in my Z started to fall apart I shot the inside surface of the top with this stuff. If I didn’t tell you what it was you’de never know it.

garyguinn

thanks Jeff,
I'm research it now.
appreciate the heads up

Gary

USAZR1

We have a classic car/musclecar dealer here and they are selling a beautiful 63 SW coupe, with 94 LT5 engine and drivetrain.
I may try to drive over and check it out, tomorrow.

VikingTrad3r

man u need to take pictures and if possible video and share!!

garyguinn

That would be sweet to see.
I bet it’s not cheap.

do you have a link?

garyguinn

https://lonestarmusclecars.us/bhphvd...awton-TX-76310

found it.

Z51JEFF

I’ve got a picture of some parts I recently painted,I’ll get some pictures.

Rkreigh

they are a little too proud of that one 199k

Z51JEFF

While that is a nice car,I would never buy a built car. To the OP,this is a perfect example of a high end build with stupid generic wheels,the right wheels on that car would have truely made it stand out.

USAZR1

Just a little? They are a lot proud of that car. No way I would pay that much money, for that car.

garyguinn

Pretty expensive wasn’t she.. I can’t afford a car that’s as expensive as a house.

Very nice car..

Don73

Dub,

Best way to contact you? Your PM is full.