FC2000

Intermitent no start. Turn the key: nothing no click. Wait an hour, starts ok
Does this when hot every 10 to 12 times I drive it.
Have done the following:
By-passed clutch saftey switch
By-passed VATS system
Tested battery; ok (correct size for ZR-1)
Removed starter, Bench tested cold; ok
Cooked starter in oven 350 degrees 1 hour, bench tested starter hot; ok
Checked all grounds;ok
Checked all connections at starter; ok, tight no corrosion
Anyone with idea I havn't tried yet?
This is like finding out my wife is cheating! I'd like to trust her but it's getting difficult to maintain the relationship!!! :cry

LT5

Could it be that your key is faulty?

BCZR1

Well, you have pretty well spanned the ideas that I had from the last post. :( I know that u have by passed vats, but have u actually tried getting someone to try and push start it when it's a no go?

Brian

***EDIT- FC, Sending u an IM shortly...


[Modified by 86vette4+3, 5:19 PM 8/24/2002]


[Modified by 86vette4+3, 7:24 PM 8/24/2002]

ZR-the one

FC2000:11. TITLE - Intermittent starting problems
YEAR(S) - All

PROBLEM - If you have intermittent starting problems it maybe the starter motor (see starter motor problem) but it also maybe the battery. A bad battery may lead you to believe you have a bad starter.

CORRECTION - Try a new battery before taking half your engine apart to replace the starter.

SERVICE BULLETIN/RECALL - No

PS:Like I said before I had the same problem untill I change the battery ,please tell us wich battery you have how old how many cranking amps
and how you thgink iyt is OK ,I have a brand new AC delco 650 Amps in my bassement and that's the one that give me all the non start before.Ho I also change the key
Joseph
:chevy

FastZR1

I see you checked the battery and it checked good... but I would change it. Get one of the new AC Delco Batteries for 70 or 80 bucks and try it.

Also, I have seen once, on 91 #400, the ignition switch cause a similar problem. The ignition swich has wires just soldered on the back. Over time, the solders get weak and break from turning the ignition on/off. So the wires don't make a good connection and sometimes it will start, sometimes it won't. We pulled our hair out on that problem. Finally figured out the ignition switch and that wasn't fun to fix. (But this problem didn't always happen when hot)

I really think you should put a new battery in and try it!

Hope you figure it out soon.
Ed


[Modified by fastzr1, 9:45 AM 8/25/2002]

FC2000

I put everything back together and will buy a new battery today. If nothing else, I learned to take the plenum off and realized it's not that big of a deal to do. I can avoid big labor charges if something goes wrong with the ignition.
Thanks for everyones input!! :seeya

A26B

Sorry for all the trouble you are having and hope you locate the problem soon. :confused:
No one likes to hunt down problems like this, but working on our ZR-1's is part of the enjoyment of having them. :chevy
Beat's working on a ford :smash:

Please let us know what you ultimately find as the culprit.


[Modified by A26B, 4:59 PM 9/29/2002]

FC2000

I will report findings. I hate to say that when I am not working on this, I am working on a ford powered racecar, FF2000 :yesnod:

FC2000

Hi!
Back again. I replaced the battery, everything worked fine until today. Same problem again. Did check drain on battery when ignition key was turned and there was a draw on the battery but no click of the starter, not a thing. Waited an hour and it started again.
This is the last go around to fix or I will consider sale to the first $23000 offer.
Car has 31,000 miles, red on red , both tops, 1995 Factory A-mold wheels. As normal, Blose speakers need work.
Otherwise car is in very good condition :cry

DDSLT5

Man that sucksass - is it time to pull the ignition switch? I would love to know what the source of your woes are, but like you say, how much time, money effort do you really want to pour into this puppy?

Anybody else got any ideas for this sick beast? :confused:

A26B

Don't give up on it. I know you have busted your tail and still have the same problem. Sure would hate to see you sell the ZR over this. I've been pouring over the Service Manuals(book 2, 8A-30-0 to 5) for some new ideas and have a couple of suggestions to try & track this sick puppy down. I'm unsure what you mean when you say there was a "draw on the battery". Heavy, like solenoid was locked up or light like turning on the radio? How did you observe the draw? Either way, this is all I can come up with for you. Look it over & see what you think. Anyone that fixes it is going to have to analyze it when its in a "no start" condition. None of this costs anything unless you jump to the end where I have my "shortcut", and its pretty cheap.:)

1. When the car is in it's "no start" condition, connect a test light between the starter terminal "S" (purple wire) & ground (find fuse in underhood fuse block #2 on back of wheelwell, drivers side) & open harness enough to locate wire for probe. Turn key to start & see if voltage. ( I would recommend you locate the lead in the garage @ home when engine is cool & find a place as close to the starter as reasonably possible where you can probe the wire with the test lead that you will keep in the car) IF NO LIGHT, then

2. Backprobe ignition switch connection C1 (red) with the test light from terminal B & ground, (light should come on) then ignition switch C2 (yellow) between terminal A & ground with switch turned to start. (light should come on)

NOTE: Steps 1 & 2 will verify the ignition switch & solenoid wire to the point it was probed in #1. Here's where it gets interesting

3. Remove the starter enable relay & probe from B+ to relay connection #4 purple wire) with ignition switch in start position. (The Starter Enable Relay is located behind the left hand side of the instrument panel, left of the steering column) Light should come on. If not replace ignition switch) If yes, then,

4. Jumper from terminals #1 (yellow) & #4 (purple) (should be directly across from each other on the same end of the relay) of Starter Enable Relay connector, turn key to start.
NO START: open or short in circuit 625 or suspect CCM (central control module)
START : Probably Starter Enable Relay since you have already bypassed the clutch switch.


SHORTCUT: Now, if you are lazy like me, then I might just try a new Starter Enable Relay to see if it works. If not, then about the only remaining possibilities are the ignition switch, the CCM, or an open or short in circuit 625 which is between the Starter Enable Relay & CCM which seems like a long shot to me.

Do you mind telling (1) what the problem was that caused you to replace the starter before all of this, (2) did the problem begin after replacement and (3) where the starter came from, new or rebuilt? No particular reason, just curious.

GOOD LUCK :(

A26B

I talked to Gordon Killebrew this weekend about your problem. He said; Go to the starter relay to the left of the steering column, locate the black wire with yellow tracer. Tee into the wire and run it to a good ground and that should take care of the problem. He has seen this problem many times before. I strongly recommend that if you have any questsions, call him. It's well worth the small charge and he knows more about C4's than the rest of us put together. Good luck again.