How do you eliminate the air injection system on the stock headers?
06-14-2014, 10:24 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
How do you eliminate the air injection system on the stock headers?
The right hand side cylinders on my ZR-1 were all running rich. I replaced the O2 sensors, checked out the ECM, sealed up the exhaust joints, still ran rich. Figured an air leak telling the ECM that it is running lean.
I removed the check valves on the right side headers, they seemed to work fine, but they had the black soot inside the air injector hose, so I suspected they were leaking air and effecting the air/fuel ratio. In short, I put some gasket maker stuff inside the air tube hose to seal up the header. Took the fuse out of the blower fan and removed the connector on the injector valve for good measure. Took it for a drive and the exhaust sounded different so I think I found my problem! It's nice to have a properly running car again (so I think).
Anyhow, now for the question: Is there a cap that can be installed on the air injector tubes on the headers in place of the check valves? I want to get rid of the whole air injection system and still use the stock headers and avoid having to weld them. Any suggestions?
I removed the check valves on the right side headers, they seemed to work fine, but they had the black soot inside the air injector hose, so I suspected they were leaking air and effecting the air/fuel ratio. In short, I put some gasket maker stuff inside the air tube hose to seal up the header. Took the fuse out of the blower fan and removed the connector on the injector valve for good measure. Took it for a drive and the exhaust sounded different so I think I found my problem! It's nice to have a properly running car again (so I think).
Anyhow, now for the question: Is there a cap that can be installed on the air injector tubes on the headers in place of the check valves? I want to get rid of the whole air injection system and still use the stock headers and avoid having to weld them. Any suggestions?
06-16-2014, 04:50 AM
#2
I don't believe that should be an issue. The male thread on the AIR is I'm quite sure 1/2 NPT 14 TPI but I would need to check for sure. I've never attempted this but I'd think doable. I can maybe check late tonight, I'm leaving for appointments NOW!
Here's a link to some stainless caps for NPT and I would think you could do these at any local hydraulic shop. Look at the 1/2 NPT
http://www.hydraulicsdirect.com/SS_5...m?1=1&CartID=0
I believe on 1/2 NPT there's 7/16" of thread and the AIR nipples measure that +/-. My screw pitch gage is not here so I can't confirm for you. I've got some 3/4 pipe fittings but that's certainly to large.
Here's a link to some stainless caps for NPT and I would think you could do these at any local hydraulic shop. Look at the 1/2 NPT
http://www.hydraulicsdirect.com/SS_5...m?1=1&CartID=0
I believe on 1/2 NPT there's 7/16" of thread and the AIR nipples measure that +/-. My screw pitch gage is not here so I can't confirm for you. I've got some 3/4 pipe fittings but that's certainly to large.
Last edited by WVZR-1; 06-16-2014 at 06:38 PM.
06-18-2014, 07:39 AM
#4
You can of course buy 1/2 NPT caps at any local hardware, plumbing shop or whatever and I posted the link "assuming" you wanted something "pretty". I guess maybe I was mistaken. There should be no reason to fabricate a thing. I suggested a hydraulic shop for a cap.
06-19-2014, 09:14 PM
#6
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Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Winter Garden (central),FL,USA
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That worked like like a charm. I go four brass caps from Lowes. Thanks!
Ya know, was looking at the removed parts, I am not surprised about the air leaks, there are little sections of rubber hose and clamps everywhere, many are plastic. I looked at a few c4's, non-ZR-1's, sooty exhaust seems common.
Ya know, was looking at the removed parts, I am not surprised about the air leaks, there are little sections of rubber hose and clamps everywhere, many are plastic. I looked at a few c4's, non-ZR-1's, sooty exhaust seems common.
