NVNO1

So I've been working on the ZR-1 doing small projects/upgrades since I've had it. I'm actually really having a lot of fun researching and reading and tinkering.
I noticed that I have a small leak coming from what looks like the front of the oil pan. It only drops a couple of small drops overnight, however I don't like things that leak or don't work.
How much effort is involved in changing the oil pan gasket? It looks like you have to unbolt the two braces that cover the pan. Once that is done it looks straight forward. Loosen the bolts and drop the pan. Am I missing anything?? I can't seem to find any videos or how to articles for this. Thanks for any tips or help!

FASTAZU

Have you tried to tighten the front bolts? You may have to do some reading but I'm sure its here somewhere!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-z...ks-500-hp.html

NVNO1

I haven't tried to tighten them. I figured I would just change the gasket if it's not to much of an episode. I found a couple of articles about leaks, but I haven't found anything with detailed info/instructions or a how to...

Dynomite

Remove Oil Pan Engine In Car TIPS

z06scentair

Try re-torqueing the oil pan bolts as Steve suggested, be cognizant of the oil cooler lines where they attach to the front of the motor. These lines are in many cases the culprit for leaks that come from the front of the motor.

Feel around the fittings for wetness.

When they leak the entire undercarriage can be coated with a greasy thick oil film.

NVNO1

Thank you! This is exactly the info I was hoping to find. I ordered a new gasket this morning from Jerrry's. I hope to be tackling the pan this weekend.

NVNO1

When I had the car at Tucker's GM performance center having new injectors put in I had Jim check the oil pan bolts for tightness. He said that they were loose, however I've put about 500 miles on it since then and the leak is back. I'm almost 100% sure it's the original gasket in the car so I figure it would be a safe bet to replace the gasket. When I had it on stands over the weekend it was very difficult to tell where the leak was coming from. The oil looked the most fresh at the front of the oil pan. I let it sit over night on stands hoping to see a few drops in the morning, but of course it didn't drip over night The next day I couldn't resist taking it out around lake mead. It was a too nice of a day

Reference the oil cooler lines....What is the fix for that? Now I'm affraid I'm going to get under there and replace the gasket and still have a leak

Dynomite

Tighten the fittings on the Oil Cooler Lines.

Potential Oil Leaks and the OPRV Cover Plate

Graybeard ZR1

I had this problem awhile ago. It's not really necessary to remove the pan and replace the gasket, unless the leak is really flowing at a high rate. If your oil is clean, and you have no other reason to remove the pan, try this:

1. drain the oil to stop the flow.

2. Remove the front bolts of the pan.

3. Clean oil off the bolts.

4. Wipe the oil from the pan, and Q-tip the threads in the block to dry them up.

5. Re- install the bolts with Loctite. It should remain dry, (mine did).

You need a small wrench, 6mm box-end I think. I had to weld an extension to my wrench to reach the area. And you need slim fingers to work between the engine and cross brace.

Good Luck.

blownrunner

Don't forget the red locktight.

erikszr1

I had a oil leak also. I thought it was oil pan leaking. it wasn't it turned out to be the oil pressure control valve.? I think that's what its called. anyway, it was 2, 8mm bolts were loose. a compilation of 1//4 drive extensions n swivels I was able to get to them without taking anything apart. they are located on the right front lower engine block. coming straight in from passanger side. it was a drip all the time, making a mess. I did that years ago, been perfect ever since. maybe your is leaking as well. anyway not long ago I saw one of us talking about this same thing. do a search. the tips on the oil pan bolts is great as well. I jusy saw dynomites post, yea man !! thank you for the links! that's what I was talking about!!

Zrxmax

Wouldn't blue locktite be sufficent? What if you need to remove the bolts at a later date? Isn't red loctite going to require torque that might break the bolts when loosening them?

Dynomite

I use Blue Loctite on Oil Pan Bolts and on anything I might remove once in a while including the Water Pump.

Post 4 - General Bolt Length, Bolt Torque, Loctite, and Tools
Post 5 - Use of thread Lubricants, Loctite and Sealants

NVNO1

Well I got around to the oil pan over the weekend. I put the car up on jack stands and then managed to take the braces off. I decided to only tighten the front three bolts on the oil pan due the fact the rest of the bolts were already retorqued when I had the injectors done. I felt like taking the pan off at this point was a bit much and didn't want to "fix what wasn't broken" if you know what I mean. The leak I was experiencing was 100% the oil pan and it was obvious the front three bolts on the pan were the culprits. I'm going to leave it that for now and see if tightening the bolts works. If not I guess I will have to dedicate a day to changing the gasket. I do at least have a new gasket that I got from Jerry's. Thanks for all the tips and helpfull info!!