Easy way to remove gas
#1
Melting Slicks
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Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Taildragers rule! USA1
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Easy way to remove gas
I haven't started my 91 for two years. Is there an easy way to remove the old gas from the tank.
I'd really like to install an aircraft quick drain.
I'd really like to install an aircraft quick drain.
#2
Removal of the tank unit is easily accomplished "standing flat-footed" on the ground and provides easy access to the tank interior.
The aircraft quick drain I'd think is NOT an option. There hasn't been bottom drains in tanks since the mid - late 50's on most domestic passenger cars.
Last edited by WVZR-1; 01-22-2014 at 05:14 AM.
#3
Drifting
If the tank wasn't full of fuel , it's common for the fuel sender to rust. I had a 93 with 168 miles that had sat for long periods like that. I had to siphon the rust from the bottom of the tank. I used clear poly hose with a 2ft piece of 1/2 copper tube on the end to "vacuum" the bottom of the tank while siphoning. Using a good, explosion-proof flashlight to see the bottom while "siphoning" was essential.
I have seen pictures of much worse than this one.
I also recommend replacing the plastic hose clamps with ss worm clamps. Turn the screws where it won't interfere with the reinstallation of the sender.
I have seen pictures of much worse than this one.
I also recommend replacing the plastic hose clamps with ss worm clamps. Turn the screws where it won't interfere with the reinstallation of the sender.
#4
Race Director
The fuel tanks since 1976 have bladders in them, for safety and incidentally prevents the tank from rotting out.. A drain would ruin that, and cause emission failures (if that is a concern). I've used a syphon, and then rags to remove the rest and to clean the tank, after removing the fuel pump assembly.
#5
Team Owner
The fuel tanks since 1976 have bladders in them, for safety and incidentally prevents the tank from rotting out.. A drain would ruin that, and cause emission failures (if that is a concern). I've used a syphon, and then rags to remove the rest and to clean the tank, after removing the fuel pump assembly.
10% ethanol will develop a nasty turpentine like smell. You don't want to run that through the pumps and injectors.
Also, after you siphon the tank and add fresh fuel, run a can of Berrymans B-12 Chemtool as per instructions.
#6
Melting Slicks
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Well, I took the easy way out.
I reinstalled the battery, which had been on a BatteryMinder, started it up and drove to eastern Washingtom. 200 miles.
It drove just fine, as the Pacific NW must be ideal for gas storage.....plus it had STA-BIL in it.
I stopped in Cle Elum and put 15 gallons of 92 in. I sure like driving that Corvette ZR1. It now has 15,555 miles, pulling into Desert Aire.
Took a snooze at the top of the Vantage hill.
I reinstalled the battery, which had been on a BatteryMinder, started it up and drove to eastern Washingtom. 200 miles.
It drove just fine, as the Pacific NW must be ideal for gas storage.....plus it had STA-BIL in it.
I stopped in Cle Elum and put 15 gallons of 92 in. I sure like driving that Corvette ZR1. It now has 15,555 miles, pulling into Desert Aire.
Took a snooze at the top of the Vantage hill.
#7
I drain tanks on 3 Corvettes on a regular basis.
I use one of these kerosene manual pumps which is about $5 :
I took off the orange hose on this manual pump and fit it onto the output and the input sections of the kerosene pump and use black electrical tape to secure it and make sure there are no leaks. I then use 3 or 4 red gas tanks to transfer the gas. You pump the bulb a few times and it creates a siphon as long as the red fuel tank is on the ground.
Then on the transfer of the gas to the new vette, I use a transmission funnel that looks like this:
It stands up perfect in the tank and goes quickly. You can put some towels around the funnel as well in case you accidentally splash some gas.
This system works perfectly for me.
If holding the tanks causes a problem for you. You can always put the tank on a ladder and create an automatic siphon by pumping the bulb a few times and allowing the gas to automatically flow. You turn the **** on the top to stop the automatic flow.
I hope this helps you out. This solution is about $20 all in. There may be better ways but this way is foolproof and works for me on all 3 Vettes. I thought the mityvak orange pump would work good on its own but it leaks like alot of other solutions.
I keep all my cars full of gas when storing them and use Ethanol Free 93 octane. It's important to keep them full or you can get water and rust etc.
Good luck.
I use one of these kerosene manual pumps which is about $5 :
I took off the orange hose on this manual pump and fit it onto the output and the input sections of the kerosene pump and use black electrical tape to secure it and make sure there are no leaks. I then use 3 or 4 red gas tanks to transfer the gas. You pump the bulb a few times and it creates a siphon as long as the red fuel tank is on the ground.
Then on the transfer of the gas to the new vette, I use a transmission funnel that looks like this:
It stands up perfect in the tank and goes quickly. You can put some towels around the funnel as well in case you accidentally splash some gas.
This system works perfectly for me.
If holding the tanks causes a problem for you. You can always put the tank on a ladder and create an automatic siphon by pumping the bulb a few times and allowing the gas to automatically flow. You turn the **** on the top to stop the automatic flow.
I hope this helps you out. This solution is about $20 all in. There may be better ways but this way is foolproof and works for me on all 3 Vettes. I thought the mityvak orange pump would work good on its own but it leaks like alot of other solutions.
I keep all my cars full of gas when storing them and use Ethanol Free 93 octane. It's important to keep them full or you can get water and rust etc.
Good luck.
Last edited by xlr8nflorida; 04-06-2014 at 10:34 PM.