basic 90 zr1 mods?
#4
Be careful when you get the rear gears, There are two Dana 44 ring and Pinion gear sets. There is a gear set that utilizes a 7/16" gear bolt (Viper) and a gear set that utilizes 3/8" gear bolt (Corvette).
Last edited by TORCH; 12-25-2012 at 02:24 PM.
#5
Tech Contributor
If you can get by with exhaust mods (Smog Certification issues), go with SW Headers and SW Exhaust.
Then if you like......Top End Porting.
Then drop in an Intake Cam regrind.
All Modifications would be associated with an appropriate chip modification as well Marc Haibeck
The 90 is "almost" stock and the 91 a bit modified
Last edited by Dynomite; 12-22-2012 at 01:06 AM.
#8
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: South-central Missouri
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Not a lot of "bolt-on" adders for the ZR-1, after the exhaust.
Common "bolt on" items:
SW headers w/ 2" primaries or Watson 1-7/8", SW X pipe,
3" exhaust and Dyna Max 3" inlet and twin 2" outlets
OR 2-1/2" Corsa exhaust
4.10 gears
K&N open air filter housing
Samco intake hose (smooths the air flow)
Now for the real hp adders...
top end P&P: plenum, injector housings, and tapering into the heads
TB opened to 63mm
remove secondary port throttle plates and hardware
head porting and decking
relieve the intake valves
cams
cam phasing
stoking
sleeves
And, as with any one step, the tune should be adjusted to optimize whatever adders were, well, added!
With bolt on exhaust and P&P properly done and a tune, it is possible to see 390 to 400 rwhp with the power curve flattening out around 6500 to 7000.
Porting and relieving the heads gets another 20-25 at the wheels.
Then there off-set grinding the crank and sleeves and pistons to get you to 475+ at the wheels
The sleeves and stroker crank along with caging or AES' closed deck approach, along with more porting and valves and cams gets in the 560 at the wheels (about 700 chp)
Then there's FI too!
There is a ("FBI") group that hangs out in the Chicago area that can "do it all" for you, far as power mods go (and much more). You'll wanna register with the ZR-1 Registry and ask questions!
P.
Common "bolt on" items:
SW headers w/ 2" primaries or Watson 1-7/8", SW X pipe,
3" exhaust and Dyna Max 3" inlet and twin 2" outlets
OR 2-1/2" Corsa exhaust
4.10 gears
K&N open air filter housing
Samco intake hose (smooths the air flow)
Now for the real hp adders...
top end P&P: plenum, injector housings, and tapering into the heads
TB opened to 63mm
remove secondary port throttle plates and hardware
head porting and decking
relieve the intake valves
cams
cam phasing
stoking
sleeves
And, as with any one step, the tune should be adjusted to optimize whatever adders were, well, added!
With bolt on exhaust and P&P properly done and a tune, it is possible to see 390 to 400 rwhp with the power curve flattening out around 6500 to 7000.
Porting and relieving the heads gets another 20-25 at the wheels.
Then there off-set grinding the crank and sleeves and pistons to get you to 475+ at the wheels
The sleeves and stroker crank along with caging or AES' closed deck approach, along with more porting and valves and cams gets in the 560 at the wheels (about 700 chp)
Then there's FI too!
There is a ("FBI") group that hangs out in the Chicago area that can "do it all" for you, far as power mods go (and much more). You'll wanna register with the ZR-1 Registry and ask questions!
P.
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ZBrink (02-29-2024)
#9
Tech Contributor
You are at the right place right here for technical questions
Beware of guys that want to send you somewhere else as they (most of those types) do not do their own work
Paul (has a very nice 90) is an exception as he does a lot of his own work
Last edited by Dynomite; 12-22-2012 at 10:45 AM.
#10
Excellent! My car is also red on tan..
many of the mods listed here (jeal headers, 4.10 gears, port/polish, reprogrammed ECM, Corsa exhaust, etc.) are on my car... and let me tell you, they make an already fast car brutally fast..
I would seriously recommend upgrading your brakes as well. I have Baer Eradispeed rotors on the car, coupled with stainless steel brake lines.. People always want to know how fast the car is - but no one ever asks how fast it stops..
many of the mods listed here (jeal headers, 4.10 gears, port/polish, reprogrammed ECM, Corsa exhaust, etc.) are on my car... and let me tell you, they make an already fast car brutally fast..
I would seriously recommend upgrading your brakes as well. I have Baer Eradispeed rotors on the car, coupled with stainless steel brake lines.. People always want to know how fast the car is - but no one ever asks how fast it stops..
#11
Tech Contributor
Excellent! My car is also red on tan..
many of the mods listed here (jeal headers, 4.10 gears, port/polish, reprogrammed ECM, Corsa exhaust, etc.) are on my car... and let me tell you, they make an already fast car brutally fast..
I would seriously recommend upgrading your brakes as well. I have Baer Eradispeed rotors on the car, coupled with stainless steel brake lines.. People always want to know how fast the car is - but no one ever asks how fast it stops..
many of the mods listed here (jeal headers, 4.10 gears, port/polish, reprogrammed ECM, Corsa exhaust, etc.) are on my car... and let me tell you, they make an already fast car brutally fast..
I would seriously recommend upgrading your brakes as well. I have Baer Eradispeed rotors on the car, coupled with stainless steel brake lines.. People always want to know how fast the car is - but no one ever asks how fast it stops..
#13
Racer
For a new owner, I would say, (unless you have unlimited resources), do all the bolt ons that you can do without getting into the engine. It's easier, cheaper, and you can do most of them yourself. Look below to my sig to see a long list of things you can do without popping the plenum, and the results. Then, once you get bored with that power level, Marc H. and the boys have a whole menu of magic for you think about.
#14
For a new owner, I would say, (unless you have unlimited resources), do all the bolt ons that you can do without getting into the engine. It's easier, cheaper, and you can do most of them yourself. Look below to my sig to see a long list of things you can do without popping the plenum, and the results. Then, once you get bored with that power level, Marc H. and the boys have a whole menu of magic for you think about.
#15
Bolt-On Mods are few, but make a hell of a difference"
Exhaust (I like the Flowmaster)
Haibeck piggyback chip
Open Air Cleaner Lid & K & N filter
That's about it for true bolt on stuff. You'll add about 20+ HP but it will seem like more.
Stainless Works, I think makes the only header/exhaust systems that bolt on. You're talking upwards of $2k+ when you add the exhaust system that works with the headers.
Exhaust (I like the Flowmaster)
Haibeck piggyback chip
Open Air Cleaner Lid & K & N filter
That's about it for true bolt on stuff. You'll add about 20+ HP but it will seem like more.
Stainless Works, I think makes the only header/exhaust systems that bolt on. You're talking upwards of $2k+ when you add the exhaust system that works with the headers.
#17
I believe that OBX headers are the way to go, as far as cost and perf. they are much better deal, you can even get them off amazon for 500 bills and they also sell a catback look alike for a heck of alot cheaper, they have good quality, I would say get better clamps thats the only pitfall on the OBX, but you can have headers and complete exhaust for under a grand.
#18
Burning Brakes
I believe that OBX headers are the way to go, as far as cost and perf. they are much better deal, you can even get them off amazon for 500 bills and they also sell a catback look alike for a heck of alot cheaper, they have good quality, I would say get better clamps thats the only pitfall on the OBX, but you can have headers and complete exhaust for under a grand.