Dynomite

Oil Pan (Oil level and Knock Sensor), Flywheel, Clutch, Bell Housing

1. Oil Pan.

Install the oil pan making sure the large "O" ring is positioned on top of the Oil Pump Intake housing bolted to the bottom of the oil pan. I use a very light coat of Permatex on both sides of the Oil Pan gasket.

Install the Oil Level sensor on Oil Pan (drivers side). Install the Knock sensor just above the Oil Level sensor on the engine block (drivers side). The Knock sensor is located on drivers side just behind motor mount above oil level sensor (oil level sensor on oil pan and knock sensor on engine block). Use a 22 mm socket.



2. Flywheel, Clutch, Bell Housing.

Last UPDATE of post 81 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Checking for Oil Leaks/Making your own SS Braided Oil Lines

1. Checking for Potential Oil Leaks.

OPRV (Oil Pressure Regulating Valve Cover)......It will appear that the oil pan front bolts are loose and leaking at gasket.
Oil Pressure Switch and Oil Pressure Sensor.....
Cam Covers.....
Camshaft circular rubber plugs (two each end of each Head).....
Oil Cooler Hoses/Connections.....(see item #3 below)



There is an Oil Level Sensor on Oil Pan....
But I would say the one that stumped me the most was that OPRV cover. And prolly the hardest to get at (two 8 mm bolts).

Marc Haibeck Oil Leak Summary



2. Using Permatex 300.

I use a very light coat of Permatex 300 Form A Gasket on both surfaces of mating parts of all assemblies in contact with oil or water.



3. How to make your own SS Braided Hydraulic Lines with reusable fittings.


Tools.

One 10 inch cresent wrench (Box Wrench is best), One vice, Air compressor, Angle Grinder (with Cut Off wheel). The best tool for cutting the SS Braided Hose is a Small Angle Grinder (with Cut Off wheel) which does not fray the SS braids on the hose ends. It is also best to use an appropriate size Box Wrench on the Hose Fittings (box end) to minimize leaving marks on the fittings. I use Aeroquip Reusable Fittings and SS Braided hose from Summit Racing.



To remove existing 12AN x 3/4 NPT fittings from the Oil Filter Housing use a 1 inch box wrench (combination box/open end) with the box end on the fitting interlocked with a 3/4 inch box wrench on the other end. This will provide the leverage/torque without excessive horizontal pressure to remove the fittings. I use permatex when installing the New 10AN x 3/4 inch NPT fittings into the Oil Filter Adapter (lower fitting first). Let the ZR-1 sit over night before removing the existing Oil Cooler Hoses to minimize oil spilling.

Use of 10AN Hose/Fittings

I use all 10AN Aeroquip Reusable Fittings and 10AN Hose....The 10AN SS Braided hose I use has ID of 9/16 inch and the 12 AN SS Braided Hose has ID 5/8 inch. As it turns out.....the 12AN hose with 5/8 inch ID is identical to stock Oil Cooler Hose having ID of 5/8 inch. Also I noted the ID Fittings on the stock Oil Cooler Hoses on the Oil Cooler end where the tubing is located is less ID than the SS Braided 10AN Oil Lines.

The Stock Oil Cooler hoses have 6 inches of steel tubing on Oil Cooler end that are identical in ID (9/16 inch) to SS Braided 10AN. Further, the Stock Oil Cooler hoses are 17 inches long as compared to 13 inches long for SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses. The Oil Filter Adapter end of the Stock Oil Cooler hoses is only about 1/2 inch ID at the fittings. Which if you add all that up I would say the total head loss in the stock Oil Cooler hoses is about identical to the SS Braided 10AN with Aeroquip 10AN Fittings.

Measuring SS Braided Hose Length.

A. Follow Step #3 below and make up one end of each SS Braided Hose (cut longer than required to reach the Oil Cooler Adapter) with the 45 degree Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends.
B. Install and snug up but not tight the 45 degree Aeroquip 10AN Hose ends onto the 10AN x 3/4 inch NPT fittings installed into the Oil Filter Adapter.
C. Take the free SS Braided Hose ends curved freely around the radiator housing as they would look in the final installation. Mark the SS Braided Free Hose Ends along Red Line A and Red Line B as shown.
D. Cut these Hose Ends about 1/4 inch longer than that mark.
E. Install the 90 degree Aeroquip 10AN hose ends as in step #3 below.
F. After installation of all four 10AN Aeroquip hose ends is complete, install the 90 degree hose ends on the Oil Cooler Adapter.
G. Tighten the 10AN Fittings into the Oil Cooler Adapter (18mm x 1.5 or 6AN Straight Fittings).
H. Tighten the 10AN 90 degree Aeroquip Fittings onto the 10AN male fittings of the Oil Cooler Adapter at the angles shown by CD and EF.
Make sure there is a small gap between the bottom 10AN 90 Degree Fitting and the AC Line and the two 10AN 90 degree fittings (top and bottom)
I. Install the other end of the SS Braided Hoses 45 degree Aeroquip Fittings onto the respective Oil Filter Adapter male fittings and tighten.
J. Now making sure the "O" rings are in place on the Oil Cooler Adapter (I use Permatex on the adapter "O" ring face), position and the adapter on the face of the Oil Cooler and insert the 6mm x 1.0 x 35 mm SS Allen head bolt with SS washer into the Oil Cooler Adapter and tighten the bolt. No modification of the Fiberglass Radiator Housing is required since the Oil Cooler Adapter is installed on the Oil Cooler AFTER the fittings are connected and tightened on the Oil Cooler Adapter.



General SS Hose Assembly with Re-Usable Fittings.

1. Place SS Braided hose in vice and cut SS Braided hose to length using Angle Grinder with Cut Off wheel. Angle grinder is preferred since minimal SS wires are left free of the cut.
2. Make sure NO SS Braided wires enter the hose end and make sure ALL loose SS Braided wires are ground flush with end of hose. Keep the hose in the vice with about 2 inches on the free end out of the vice. (Clean the inside of the hose end Cut Off before going further with Cotton Cue Tip .
3. Take the AN reusable hose fitting and unscrew the male part from the female part. The other end of the male part will have an NPT pipe thread or "O" ring seal thread size (AN) as desired.
4. Take the AN reusable hose fitting female part and screw/push onto the SS Braided hose (counterclockwise) by hand pushing onto the hose as you rotate the female hose fitting counterclockwise. Aeroquip Nickel Plated Aluminum Reusable Fittings are not threaded but ARE serrated requiring a push onto the hose only. Make sure ALL SS Braids are inside the hose fitting just pushed onto the hose.
5. Screw/push the AN female reusable hose fitting onto the hose fitting such that the hose is at a depth into the female fitting as defined by the lines on the female fitting surface.
6. Lubricate the inside diameter of the SS Braided hose with oil through the end of the female fitting.
7. Insert the male reusable hose fitting into the lubricated hose through the end of the female fitting.
8. Push the male fitting into the hose as you rotate the male fitting clockwise using a cresent wrench (Box Wrench preferred). Once the threads are caught, continue rotating the male fitting into the hose untill approximately 1/16 inch space is left between the hexigon of the male fitting and female fitting.
9. Install the second hydraulic reusable hose fitting on the other end of the hose as per steps 2 through 8 above.
10. Last...but not least....take an air hose (Air Compressor) and blow the hose clear to make sure you have a clean assembly (if the SS Braided hose is not too long look through the hose end to end for any debree). You now have a SS Braided hydraulic hose with fittings good for maybe 2,000 psi hydraulic pressure more or less.

Parts Required for SS Braided Oil Cooler Lines with Re-Usable Fittings.

The SS Oil Cooler Lines are very easy to make up in SS Braided hose using Aeroquip reusable fittings and SS Braided hose available from Summit Racing. The Aeroquip Fittings are Swivel so self aligning when installing.

1. Use two 10 AN Stainless Steel Braided hose
2. use two Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends, 90 Degree, -10 AN Hose to Female -10 AN, Aluminum, Nickel Plated
3. Use two Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends, 45 Degree, -10 AN Hose to Female -10 AN, Aluminum, Nickel Plated
4. On the Oil Filter Adapter remove the 12 AN Flare fittings and use two 10AN Flare to 3/4 inch NPT
5. Oil Cooler Adapter
With the secondchance design use one "O" ring on each 10 AN Flare fitting with 18x1.5 metric thread.
With the Jeffvette design use one Dowty Washer identical to Oil Pan Drain Plug Washer on each 10 AN to 3/8" BSPP Straight Adapter.
6. One 6mm x 1.0 x 35 mm SS Allen head bolt
7. One 6 mm SS washer
8. Two "O" rings for the Aluminum adapter manifold to oil cooler interface.

The first seven items can be found at Summit Racing.

Secondchance Design of Oil Cooler Adapter..................Jeffvette Design of Oil Cooler Adapter




I have never had one of these hydraulic lines with Aeroquip Reusable Fittings leak and they are much much tougher than original crimped fittings and easily replaced or adjusted if you want to at some point make them longer or shorter (the fittings are reusable and swivel). And......you will find a much better routing of the lines if you make them yourself by looking at the routing of the existing Hydraulic Lines. The Aeroquip Reusable Fittings come in all sizes and angles to fit any situation. You can make your own oil cooler lines as shown here and Power Steering Lines or any other hydraulic line you might need on the ZR-1.

As an aside, I use the similar Aeroquip reusable fittings and Aeroquip 1509 hydraulic hose on all my farm implements and tractors. I make up all my implement hydraulic lines often replacing relatively new lines that come with the implements with my own lines that are much more dependable under extreme usage. We are talking hydraulic pressures over 2,000 psi on the hydraulics of some of these implements when the cylinders reach the stops.

Once you experiment with making your own hydraulic lines with some using SS Braided hose you will never look back at buying ready made hydraulic lines again. All you need is a vice, hand grinder (or even a hack saw will work), and a couple box wrenches of appropriate size. Oh...and an air compressor to blow clean the lines after assembly.


Last UPDATE of post 82 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Installing Heads and Camshafts

1. LT5X Studs.

LT5X Studs from Randy Woods were used replacing the standard Head Bolts. With oiled washers the nuts were torqued from the center outward starting at 30 ft-lbs, 70 ft-lbs, 110 ft-lbs. The nuts were then retorqued several times from the center outward at 110 ft-lbs. The two nuts below the camshaft position sensor were threaded on the studs flush with the stud top for clearance. Each LT5X Stud can be turned with an Allen Head wrench to assure the full threaded depth of the stud into the block. Once the stud is threaded into the block, the nut is torqued without any further rotation of the LT5X Stud.



2. Camshaft Install.

Just a trick I learned messing with camshafts and lifters on a fully lubricated head even with no oil pressure. The lesson learned is when you reinstall camshafts, tighten them down with no piston at TDC and leave them for a couple days to bleed down the lifters to base circle before trying to turn over the engine.

Harmonic Balancer was set at 51 deg (after verification of TDC at 0 deg). All camshafts were initially set by pinning with a quarter of a pin hole advanced in both exhaust camshafts to achieve close to 114 deg BTDC Intake and 110 deg ATDC Exhaust.



3. Lifter Install.

Reground Intake Camshafts and Stock Exhaust Camshafts where intalled. Stock Lifters were used with the exhaust Camshafts and Mellings JB 2236 Lifters were used with the reground Intake Camshafts.



Notes:
1. Lifter Bleed Down.
When you remove Lifters, the lifters being spring loaded, extended (to full uncompressed height) sucking in oil from the oil galley. Essentially the lifters thought there was clearance to compensate for so they locked themselves to a higher position just removing the camshaft with no oil pressure.
2. Camshaft Installation.
Install the Camshafts (neutral postion with all lifters only against base circle) and most (not all) of the valves on that bank were locked extended about 1/8 inch which extension bled down overnight as the valves on that bank this morning were essentially all closed. If the engine had been turned over immediately after installing the camshaft, the valves would have extended further than normal because the lifter had extended compensating for clearance that was actually not there
3. Lifters Source.
Type in JB2236 in search at Clarks Discount and you will find JB2236 lifters for $10.15 each

Last UPDATE of post 83 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Camshaft Timing

1. Initial Set Up.
Harmonic Balancer was set at 51 deg (after verification of TDC at 0 deg) marked on Harmonic Balancer (51 deg BTDC is also marked on Harmonic Balancer as shown).

Temporary Mechanical Timing Chain Tensioners were installed which will be replaced with the oil pressurized Timing Chain Tensioners after Camshaft timing is completed. Setting/Installing the Chain Tensioners Tricks

Left and Right Chain Tensioners Reset
(install with oil port top side).......................................Drivers Side Mechanical Chain Tensioner Installed


51 deg BTDC marked on Harmonic Balancer................Passenger Side Mechanical Chain Tensioner Installed



2. Pinning the Camshafts.
All camshafts were initially set by pinning (using a 15/64 drill bit). The Exhaust Camshafts were rotated one venier pin hole clockwise (about 3.2 deg crankshaft rotation) for both exhaust camshafts to achieve close to 110 deg BTDC Exhaust (114 deg BTDC Stock setting). LT5 Camshaft Specifications and Camshaft General Timing

15/64 Drill Bit used as pin........................................ .Venier Plate Pin Holes each 3.2 deg +or- on Crankshaft



3. More accurate Camshaft Timing using the Degree Wheel.
Camshaft Timing using Degree Wheel
Exhaust Camshafts were set at 110 deg BTDC and Intake Camshafts were set at 114 deg ATDC.
a. The Camshaft Timing with the Degree Wheel is accomplished utilizing Cylinder #1 for the Drivers side (1,3,5,7) and Cylinder #6 for the Passenger side (2,4,6,8).
b. The Harmonic Balancer is rotated clockwise (looking at it from front of engine) to within 20 deg of Maximum Cam Lift (either Exhaust or Intake Camshafts).
c. The Dial Gauge is then attached to bolt (8mmx1.25) inserted in a Cam Cover Bolt Hole between INTAKE and EXAUST Camshafts as shown (number six cylinder shown) with the plunger of the Dial Gauge resting on top of the Lifter (Dial Gauge plunger free to move).
d. The Harmonic Balancer is then slowly rotated clockwise and the first reading of the dial gauge noted.
e. The Degrees at which this cam lift occured is also marked on the Degree Wheel BEFORE maximum lift.
f. The Harmonic Balancer is then slowly rotated clockwise again past Maximum Cam Lift to the same cam lift as noted in (d) above and the Degree Wheel marked a second time.
g. The difference in Degrees between the two marks on the Degree Wheel is divided by two and the center between the two marks determined (and marked on the Degree Wheel as MAXIMUM Cam Lift Degrees).
h. That last Degree Wheel mark is the Degrees of Crankshaft Rotation at which the Cams are at maximum lift (Exhaust or Intake).

See next post Camshaft Timing (Locking the Camshaft in Position)

Back side of Dial Gauge set on top of Lifter............................Front side of Dial Gauge set on top of Lifter



Notes:
1. Once the camshaft timing is set use a new camshaft sprocket bolt (Marc Haibeck Camshaft ARP bolts with 12 pt 9/16 socket or Jerry's Gaskets Camshaft ARP bolts with 6 pt 9/16 socket). I torque to an initial 20 ft-lbs and check timing with degree wheel.
2. Use Red Loctite 262 on the NEW camshaft sprocket bolts (Lubricate the washer only) and clean the existing threads of the camshaft with cue tips.
3. See next post Camshaft Timing (Locking the Camshaft in Position)

Last UPDATE of post 84 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Camshaft Timing (Locking the Camshafts) and Camshaft Lubrication

1. Locking the Venier Plates.
It is difficult to tighten the camshaft bolts without moving the venier plate on the camshaft with the flat of the venier plate somewhere within the 3 deg of play (6 deg of crankshaft rotation). The venier plate can rotate back and forth on the camshaft on that Camshaft Flat. The Trick is to lock the venier plate flat in the most clockwise direction (clockwise looking at front of engine) tight against the flat of the camshaft as shown.

a. For a (90-92 LT5) there is 6 deg of crankshaft play when the camshaft flat rotates 3 deg against the flat of the venier plate (flat to flat).
b. It has also been calculated that each pin hole advance or retard moves the camshaft 1.6 deg (3.2 deg at crankshaft).
See item #3 Camshaft Specific Timing Using Degree Wheel
c. Set up with the camshaft venier plate rotated against the camshaft flat (clockwise looking at front of engine). Forget about the 6 deg of crankshaft play (3 deg in the venier plate flat to flat) relative to camshaft movement for the moment.
d. The worst you could be off (INTAKE Camshaft 114 deg ATDC example) would be 1.6 deg crankshaft rotation if you were at or greater than 115.6 deg ATDC or at or less than 112.4 deg ATDC first check. Just leave well enough alone (any degrees between 115.6 and 112.4 deg ATDC). Adding the 3.2 Crankshaft Degrees (One Venier Pin hole) to 112.4 deg results in 115.6 deg which would be worst case as you may be anwhere in between 115.6 deg and 112.4 deg. Either is very close (within 1.6 deg of desired 114 deg ATDC) and within measurement error (determining maximum lifter lift by any method within 1 deg is very difficult) of 114 deg ATDC desired INTAKE camshaft timing or 110 deg BTDC EXHAUST camshaft timing. See Camshaft Timing Additional Tricks

Venier Plate locked clockwise against Flat of Camshaft........Venier Plate Flats (93' - 95' has double Flats)



See step 5c of LT5 Camshaft Timing Additional Tricks

2. Locking the Camshaft Bolts.
Rotate the Harmonic Balancer clockwise so box wrench is tight counterclockwise on camshafts and venier flats are tight clockwise on flats of camshaft (looking at front of engine toward rear of engine).
Mark the Camshaft Sprockets and Camshaft to make sure the camshaft has not rotated after the Camshaft Bolts are tightend.

Mark the Camshaft sprocket and camshaft


On Passenger side, torque camshaft bolts (80 deg rotation approximately 100 ft-lbs torque Marc's ARP and 80 ft-lbs torque Jerry's ARP) holding opposite end of camshaft with 19 mm Box Wrench (passenger side) with wooden spacer between end of Box Wrench and opposite Head. On Drivers side, torque camshaft bolts (Marc's or Jerry's) holding opposite end of camshaft with 19 mm Box Wrench (drivers side) with wooden spacer between end of Box Wrench and floor.

Passenger side (cams locked from rotating)....................Drivers side (cams locked from rotating)


3. Camshaft Lubrication.

The Camshafts are lubricated (journals) from a single port in center of Camshaft. The oil then flows through the center of the Camshaft to the three rear journals and two front journals. Using compressed air, apply air pressure to the center lubrication port of each Camshaft making sure the center of the camshafts are clear and air flows out each of the five journal lubrication ports of each Camshaft.

Lubrication Port of Head (One for each Camshaft)....................Lubrication Port on Camshaft


Three Journals of Each Camshaft (rear)......................Two Journals of Each Camshaft (front)


Notes:
1. As a test of the camshaft movement with tight timing chains, apply a small torque to the rear of the Camshaft with a 19mm box wrench with dial gauge in place on an appropriate lifter.
2. You will see lifter movement depending on the torque applied. This suggests Camshaft Timing is a bit of an art
3. The technique of locking the venier plate clockwise against the camshaft flat is the easiest way to assure very close camshaft timing within 1.6 deg and at the same time be assured the camshaft is tight against the flat of the venier plate in the direction of camshaft normal rotation.
4. Using compressed air, apply air pressure to the center lubrication port of each Camshaft making sure the center of the camshafts are clear and air flows out each of the five journal lubrication ports of each Camshaft.

Last UPDATE of post 85 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Cam Covers (Filters and Wear Strips).

1. Cam Cover Filters.

The vacuum in the PCV return line and the Cam Cover Vents are a bit different as the Cam Cover vent line is attached to the Air Horn and the PCV return line is attached to the Plenum behind the Throttle Body. That means at idle you get a lot of vacuum pulling on the dual PCV valves and almost zero pulling on Cam Cover vents. At Wide Open Throttle (WOT) you get about equal vacuum on both maybe. See PCV system (Need for Oil Catch Can)

I switched from Scotch Brite to Marc Haibeck's new Cam Cover Vent filter material Cam Cover Filters



2. Timing Chain Cam Cover Wear Strips
The wear strip consists of two parts....a guide with two small screws (use red loctite) and the wear strip clipped onto the guide shown for the Drivers side.




On the Passenger side Cam Cover, you can actually see the wear strip through the oil filler hole with oil cap removed. The Cam Cover Vent (square hole) is located between the wear strip and first spark plug hole (cylinder #2 in this case) .

The (Cam Cover Vent) to the right between the wear strip and first spark plug hole can be filled with Cam Cover Filters and held in place with wire clip inserted through the two small holes you can barely see top and bottom.

3. Clean and install the Camshaft Position Sensor on the Drivers Side of the engine. The "O" rings are cleaned and lubricated before installation.



Last UPDATE of post 86 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Installing Headers and Exhaust

SW Headers ZR1CORVOR and SW Exhaust ZR1CHAMSW were installed in both the 90' and 91'

A. Headers.
for the 91' SW Headers were installed after installation of the Heads (engine out of car). The engine was removed with Headers installed. 14 of the 16 header bolts were used on each Header. For the 90' SW Headers were installed with engine in car.


B. Stage 8 Locking Bolts.
Always use Stage 8 Exhaust Header Bolts with locks (Headers Only). Do not have to torque the Header Bolts too much as the locks will assure the bolts do not loosen. You can also use an Allen wrench on Stage 8 Bolts.

The Stage 8 Exhaust Header Bolts have 7/16 inch hex heads with a 3/16 Allen socket in the center. I use a 1/4 inch socket wrench with a swivel and several extension lengths as required to tighten the Stage 8 bolts. I do not use a torque wrench as that would be next to impossible to accomplish with the tight spaces around the Headers. I also use a 7/16 flex head ratchet wrench. Typically, the torque for an 8mm bolt would be 19 ft lbs.

Here are Locking Header Bolt Kits (LT5)

LT5 Summit Racing 8905
LT5 8mm x 1.25 The underhead length is 25 mm or about .98 inches



Use the Stage 8 header bolt keepers on all header bolts of Header Bolt Kit.

C. Installing Headers.

Just some tips you might have not thought about installing the NEW SW HEADERS......

Now to install SW....and with a 1/4 socket wrench and two extensions with two universals (sometimes) you can get more of those Stage 8 Exhaust Manifold Bolts on than you think. There was one I could not get the Stage 8 Locks on.

1. Clean ALL surfaces on both sides (Drivers and Passenger) of Exhaust ports. When installing the new Exhaust Manifold Gaskets do NOT put anything on the Gaskets as nothing is needed.

2. Do not forget the center stud with larger nut (90'-92' only). It is best to take that stud out if it did not already come out with the nut using vice grips not to damage the outer threads. Use Red Loctite on it and replace it because it goes into an oil galley. Screw the stud in tight with vice grips (Before you even lift Headers up in place) not to damage the outer thread first and let that set up for a bit before installing the nut. There is a bit of room on the stud where the spacer is between lower and top threads and where the header flange is that you can use vice grips at your will without causing issues. I think both ends of the stud are different in terms of available thread so NOTE that when removing the Stud .

3. Lift Headers in place in install loosely one Stage 8 bolt in center some where (with gasket installed) so you do not have to hang onto and support the headers while installing the rest of the Stage 8 Bolts (there are a couple places you CANNOT get a Stage 8 Bolt Installed which is fine). Slip the Stage 8 through the hole in headers with gasket installed (The Stage 8 will keep gasket in place as you raise Headers to Exhaust Manifold.

4. You do NOT need a torque wrench on the Stage 8 bolts when installing. And......you do NOT have to tighten TOO MUCH TORQUE when you are using Stage 8 Locks. I do use a bit of Anti-seize on the Stage 8 Header Bolts.



5. Modify those CAT shields (the ones with the two bolts going to the oil pan). Re-install them after you do a little cutting with cutoff wheel and grinder to shape as tight as you can around the Headers without contacting Headers.



6. On the passenger side you might think you cannot install a Stage 8 in the front two holes of the Headers.......You Can as you can see up in front of the motor mount insulation and get that 1/4 socket with extensions up into that area.

7. Two get that passenger side 02 extension attached as provided by SW which is stuffed between engine mount and engine on passenger side......use a Hemostat. There is a clip on the connector that you do not want to break using a long thin screw driver to open when holding with Hemostat.

8. A 16 inch straight Hemostat (Ebay has many). On the Ebay Search....just type in Hemostat and the length you would like and also type in Curved or Straight (Hemostat 16 straight for this one). The beauty in addition to being sleek to reach tight spaces is that it can be locked (ratched locked) once you get hold of what you dropped.



Particularily useful for Stainless steel and Aluminum Nuts, Bolts and Washers.....as well as Stage 8 Locks that continue to drop in the process of installing them.

9. As you already determined....a magnet on a extendable shaft works perfectly for picking up any Stage 8 bolts that might fall in areas you think they cannot be retrieved.


10. DO NOT FORGET to Inststall the Dip Stick Tube with new seal .

11. Tuck away from Headers ALL wiring and other lines that might come in contact with Headers. Use the Heat shields (item #5 above) to support lines as required. There are other heat shields for the fuel lines in place that can also be used to tuck 02 sensor wires behind. Use Nylon Ties to make sure those wires and lines do not move back toward the Headers. You DO NOT have to get that top bolt back in the Heat shield as it is well supported with the two bottom bolts of the Oil Pan.

12. Inspect the steering shaft and frame around the Newly Installed SW Headers for clearance as required.

13. Replace inner wheel liners middle and rear and do not forget the BOTTOM 10 mm Bolt in the rear liner.

14. Other Tools.....

I actually use 1/4 inch socket, 1/4 inch socket extensions, 1/4 inch socket wrench, and 1/4 inch universal as the 1/4 inch are much easier to work in tight areas. When you get to installing Headers....I sometimes use two universals and two extensions with one 1/4 inch ratchet wrench with Stage 8 Header bolts (it actually works).



D. Installing Exhaust.

It is very difficult to hang the exhaust pipes using stock spring loaded hangers without the exhaust being tight against the differential. I did no want that heat directly on the differential and did not want the pipes moving up and down on the spring loaded hangers banging against differential. This was a way of FIXING the gap between the exhaust pipes (each exhaust pipe) and differential to 1/4 inch.

The copper pipe is placed across the tops of the exhaust pipes allowing the spring loaded hangers to pull and hold the exhaust pipes against the copper pipe while creating a 1/4 inch gap between the exhaust pipes and the differential. Copper does not corrode and transmits heat very well. The copper pipe is captured by the four bolts of the rear Leaf Spring bracket.

SW Headers ZR1CORVOR and SW Exhaust ZR1CHAMSW were installed in both the 90' and 91' with this copper pipe setup.

The Copper pipe spacer was added (two each 1 x 6 inch copper pipe with coupler and end caps) to keep SW exhaust 1/4 inch
away from riding against Differential Housing. The end caps and coupler actually keep the spacer in place without any ties.



I set the two rear stock spring hangers so they pull the exaust up tight against the copper spacer. Also set the rear "L" hanger so there is freedom of the exhaust system to move to the rear at least 1/2 inch when hot.

Post 45 - Exhaust System Replace with Headers

Last UPDATE of post 87 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Installing Engine In ZR-1

1. The first two items to be removed before the engine can be lifted (with Headers Installed) are the Wiper Motor and AC Temperature Sensor (Passenger Side Fire Wall). The last items to be installed will be the Wiper Motor and AC Temperature Sensor. The LT5 was lifted with Headers, Injector Housing, Alternator, Pressure Plate, Belt Tensioner, and lower engine Radiator Hose installed. See How to Replace the Wiper Motor

A/C Temp Sensor........................Wiper Motor.........Do NOT use standard Lift Eyes installing LT5 with Headers



The Hood was NOT REMOVED for this installation of the LT5 with Fuel Rails, Plenum, and Bell Housing installed on the LT5 after the LT5 installation in the ZR1.

2. LT5 Lifting Attachments.

Make sure the LT5 sits level from side to side and a Leveler Bar is used to tip the engine to the rear. Do not use the standard Lift eyes (Passenger side rear and Drivers side front) because as you tilt the engine to the rear the load leveler will shift to the Drivers side rotating the engine lower on the passenger side. I use nylon straps around Harmonic Balancer (front) and Pressure Plate (rear). The LT5 then does not rotate from side to side with each Header remaining at the same height. The LT5 can be tilted to the rear with the Load Leveler.

See Lifting the LT5


Last UPDATE of post 88 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

ECM Chip and Other Electrical Connectors

1. Installing the ECM Chip.

Remove two 10mm nuts from ECM bracket. Remove ECM and flip upside down toward center of engine.




Remove four 6 mm head bolts using short socket extension and find ECM with Chip end locks in position.



Flip Chip End Locks outward and remove chip.



Bottom of ECM (electrical connectors and locking tabs). Top of ECM (electrical connectors and locking tabs).



2. Battery Connections.

For Battery Connections I carry an 5/16 inch Flex Head Ratchet Combination Wrench in the Center Console.



3. Other Connections.

Last UPDATE of post 89 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Installing Alternator, AC Pump, Power Steering Pump

The Alternator, Injector Housing, Belt Tensioner, and Headers were installed on the engine before the LT5 was lifted into the ZR1. The AC pump and Power Steering Pump were installed with the Ignition Coils, and Fuel rails (Purge and Cruize control vacuum lines) after the LT5 was installed in the ZR1.



1. Serpentine Belt Path.
A tad shorter Serpentine Belt (I recall a Belt by Gates approximately 79.5 inch belt). This belt is perfect length very tight installation with belt tensioner fully compressed during installation of belt. Serpentine Belt installed after engine, AC compressor, Power Steering pump and Alternator installed. The Serpentine Belt Path is shown on a 95' LT5.

2. Specialized Racing Pulleys.
Specialized Racing
a. Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley.
b. Billet Aluminum Power Steering Pulley.



3. Evaporator Installation.

Use Silicon Seal as gasket material between the two halves of the Evaporator box. Also use Silicon Seal around the inlet and outlet pipes (top and bottom) of the Evaporator Box.



Last UPDATE of post 90 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Installing Fuel Rails and Ignition Coils

1. Secondaries.

This particular LT5 (91') rebuild excludes Secondaries. See 1990 LT5 Specific Top End Rebuild Tricks for complete restoration of Secondaries.

Secondary Vacuum System Removed


If Secondaries were installed the vacuum cannisters should be set up as noted below:

Vacuum Cannister showing "L" connection.......Vacuum Cannister installed "correctly"


Under Plenum with Secondaries Removed


2. Ignition Coils.

The Ignition Coils Base is installed with the right side electrical connections to the Alternator and TB/Air Intake installed above the passenger side of the Ignition Coil Base.

3. Cruise Control and EVAP Purge System.

The Fuel Tank Purge Solenoid is installed with the front two Ignition Coil Base bolts with the vacuum connections facing the Drivers side of the engine. The Cruize Control Vacuum check valve is intstalled (sits but not tied down) just in front of the Fuel Tank Purge Solenoid with the vacuum line going forward to the Cruize control Reservoir to the Drivers side of the AC Compressor.

The Cruize Control Vacuum is taken from the passenger side of plenum. From there one vacuum line goes to the cruize control under ECM (one line) and the second line goes to the cruize control switch on steeringwheel column (second line).
The EVAP Purge system draws vacuum from under front of Plenum and through the Solenoid valve. When the Solenoid valve is activated, vacuum is directed out the right side under Plenum back along the passenger side frame rail to the fuel tank.

Cruize Control Vacuum System ...................................EVAP Purge Vacuum System with Solenoid


Marc and Pete suggested to eliminate the EVAP Purge circuit completely and capping off that vacuum source under front of plenum. I just replaced my charcoal cannister and Marc says he does not address that removal in the chip as it has no effect. I left that associated vacuum and electrical connection including the Evap Purge solenoid in place under the plenum.

4. Fuel Rails.

Lubricate the Injector "O" rings before installing the Fuel Rails. The Fuel Tank Purge and Cruze Control Vacuum Lines exit the Plenum area under the Fuel Rails to the Passenger side of the engine. The Fuel Line Connections to the Fuel rails are installed AFTER the Passenger Side Plenum bolt closest to the Fire Wall is installed.

I use RC SL4-205 injectors (500+ hp). Tech Info - LT5 RC SL4-205 injectors (500+ hp) Calculations
The RC Secondary come with Blue Caps covering the "O" ring. The Blue Caps must be removed before installing the RC Secondary Injectors.



"O" Rings in IH and on Injectors......Primary LEFT ("O" Ring in IH) and Secondary RIGHT ("O" Ring on Injector)

Used just a tad of white grease on the "O" rings (Primary and Secondary Injectors) for easy installation of injectors.



5. Fuel Lines Bracket.

A more substantial Bracket was fabricated out of Billet Aluminum for attachment of the fuel lines on top of the Evaporator Housing.



Last UPDATE of post 91 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Installing Plenum, TB, and Air Cleaner

The Plenum removal and insallation is much easier with the blocked TB coolant and Secondaries Removed. The Purge Vacuum Line and the Cruize Control Vacuum line shown on top of the Passenger side Fuel Rail actually are installed UNDER the fuel rail.



1. Eliminating Throttle Body (TB) Coolant system.

Install 1/8 inch NPT allen head pipe plugs (21/64 or 11/32 drill) two each side of Plenum (Two each TB Coolant and Injector Housing (IH) Coolant) as shown (The associated two IH coolant ports in the IH can also be plugged on each side).

See Summit Racing for Aluminum Pipe Plugs.

Remove hose and tubing left and right side of plenum, plug hose return to coolant tank passenger side. Initial Coolant Fill may be somewhat affected by the TB Coolant Elimination (see item #4 Filling With Coolant and the Air Locked Water Pump).



Note: The TB coolant path back to the passenger side overflow tank does provide a path for air and potential air lock to return to that passenger side tank during initial coolant fill. However, the Plenum to TB coolant hose sits only an inch or so above the IH coolant manifolds on the passenger side so the benefit of using that path to bleed air vice the top of the coolant manifolds to the radiator is very small. Marc has decided to bypass the TB coolant (vice eliminate all TB coolant hoses) leaving that coolant path back to the passenger side overflow tank in place to assure issues would not arrise on rebuilds for those unaware of coolant initial filling and water pump potential air locks.I also park on KwikLift sloped upward which assures IH coolant manifolds are voided of air at all times (especially if engine is reved a bit).

The 5th plug (Plenum Vacuum) is for Plenum Vacuum drivers side only which was connected to the vacuum reservoir. The tubing can be removed and a 1/8 inch NPT allen head pipe plug inserted exactly like the plenum coolant plugs.

a. When you run the tap....keep checking the pipe plug for depth so you end up tight and flush.
b. When you run the Drill.......remember you are in ALUMINUM so go very easy and slow!!! (you can do it without a drill press).
c. Use a bit of Permatex gasket sealer or Teflon tape on the pipe plugs.



2. Vacuum Connections.

a. Under Plenum
The Fuel Tank Purge Solenoid is installed with the front two Ignition Coil Base bolts with the vacuum connections facing the Drivers side of the engine. The Cruize Control Vacuum check valve is intstalled (sits but not tied down) just in front of the Fuel Tank Purge Solenoid with the vacuum line going forward to the Cruize control Reservoir to the Drivers side of the AC Compressor.

The Cruize Control Vacuum is taken from the passenger side of plenum. From there one vacuum line goes to the cruize control under ECM (one line) and the second line goes to the cruize control switch on steeringwheel column (second line).
The EVAP Purge system draws vacuum from under front of Plenum and through the Solenoid valve. When the Solenoid valve is activated, vacuum is directed out the right side under Plenum back along the passenger side frame rail to the fuel tank.

Cruize Control Vacuum System ...................................EVAP Purge Vacuum System with Solenoid



b. Rear of Plenum
The MAP Sensor, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Brake Boost vacuum lines were connected at the rear of the Plenum.
The PCV vacuum line going through the Oil Catch Can has also been added.
See Details for Oil Catch Can Installation.

3. Electrical Connections.

Tools
Used a 1/4 inch socket wrench with short extension and 1/4 inch socket to install the bolt in the DIS module electrical connection from rear of plenum with plenum up 3 inches (DIS attached under the Plenum).

Used a 3/8 inch socket wrench with 6 mm allen heads for plenum SS bolts.



The 4 connectors on the ignition module under the plenum are not interchangeable. The 2 towards the front carry the coil primary controls signal. The small one at the back of the module is the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The big one at the back of the module carries ECM signals.

a. Attach two smaller electrical plugs under plenum from rear of plenum.
b. Attach two larger electrical plugs to underside of DIS from front of plenum.

Last UPDATE of post 92 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

1. Filling With Coolant (The Air Locked Water Pump).
See item #3 of LT5 Radiator and Initial Coolant Fill Tricks for a general description of the radiator Fill Technique.

See LT5 Air Locked Water Pump Simplified for the Simplified Discussion regarding The Air Locked Water Pump.

Many try to get rid of the air trapped around the water pump by raising the engine and other means.

Trouble is.......no amount of "burping by gravity" will get that air out of the air locked water pump. You can blow (with your own lungs) a pressure of 5 ft of water as a comparison to lifting one side of the ZR1 or LT5 only a few inches higher. You may get lucky and the water pump spin up a little water to start flushing air but usually that is not the case.

The problem is that the Water Pump cavity is above the outlet ports (red line in photo). Air gets stalled above the water line and the pump becomes air locked spinning the air with no water movement.



2. Explanation (The Air Locked Water Pump).
As you can see in the photo, just raisng the Z or other gravity solutions may get a bit more water in the water pump because you are lifiting one port higher than the other. You may get lucky and after a couple trials get enough air out of the water pump by gravity. The Best Method is to FORCE the air out of the Water Pump.

a. There is most likely air trapped in top part of Water Pump area. When the water pump is rotated most of the time that is enough to pull water in from the intake hose going down replacing air initiating a hydrodynamic flow.
b. Sometimes on occasions, there is not enough water pulled in or already in that area such that the hydrodynamic flow is initiated leaving only air spinning around.
c. When you lift the car on passenger side say 18 inches you prolly lift that passenger side coolant port a few inches above the drivers side coolant port which will help but the water level in the water pump will remain horizontal with that level moved upward to the highest port. So you have replaced some air with water but not much.

A. Disconnect the Drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold "L" from the Drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold and rotate that "L" up connected to the Drivers side Coolant Crossover Pipe.



Attach a second "L" to the Injector Housing Coolant Manifold rotated up and fill that "L" with coolant. Blow into that "L" forcing coolant into the water pump through the Drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold (Only blow in steps refilling the "L" with coolant each blow effort). You can see in the photo that by blowing coolant into the Drivers Side of the water pump air will be forced out to the top level of the impeller with only a small amount of air left on the passenger side of the water pump.



B. Refill the Drivers Side "L" temporarily connected to the Drivers Side Coolant Manifold with coolant and do that trick a couple times until the coolant flows out of the Drivers Side Crossover "L" that has been rotated up.

When you blow (force) coolant into Port A of the Water Pump (Blowing in steps) you replace the yellow area of Air with Water. The Air is forced out the top and down left side through Port B. (Only blow in steps refilling the "L" with coolant each blow effort).

Do NOT rely on the temperature gauge to tell you if the Water Pump is functioning. If the two Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds are NOT getting warm rather quickly (within 1 minute), your coolant is NOT flowing.

3. A simplified Method......I fill with Coolant/Distilled Water. Then the BIG Secret......
A. I use a vice grips and close off the coolant to the Plastic Overflow under Passenger Headlight.
B. I fill Black Coolant Reservoir in front of passenger side window and when the bubbling stops.....Blow into/pressurize that Reservoir holding pressure for about 10 seconds. More bubbles will come from the top of the radiator hose. I refill with Distilled Water and Blow into/pressurize the Coolant System again. I repeat this maybe three times until no bubbles come back from the top of the Radiator. I then replace the Coolant Reservoir Cap and remove Vice Grips.....and fire up the LT5 keeping a hand on the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds to assure they get warm within a minute. (That Happens with this method of Coolant Filling 100% of the time).

With this procedure you are pressurizing both sides of the radiator but with each pressurizing cycle more coolant is being pushed into the coolant system and more air is bubbling out from the top of the radiator.

4. Coolant Overflow Under Passenger Side Headlight.
When the engine is Hot I fill the Coolant Overflow reservoir to within an inch of the top. On a Hot Engine the coolant overflow is filled by the expanding hot coolant to its maximum fill. As the engine cools the coolant is then sucked back into the engine.

What happens after doing some coolant draining during Plenum Pull or thermostat installations, is the engine develops Air Pockets in the coolant system. As the engine warms up to Hot these Air Pockets are pushed out of the engine into the Coolant Overflow. Once the Air gets into the Coolant Overflow the air is caught at the top of the coolant never to return to the engine (Which is exactly the purpose of the Coolant Overflow).

All the Air caught within the engine is flushed out by the Water Pump as you rev the engine once the engine has reached optimum temperature. The Air ends up within the Top Side of the Radiator where that Air is pushed out of the radiator into the top of the Black Coolant Reservoir in front of the Passenger Side Windshield. From their the air is forced into the Coolant Overflow as the Hot Air and Hot Coolant expands during engine Warm Up to Engine Hot.

If after several cycles of Engine Operation the Coolant Overflow continues to loose Coolant, You Have a Coolant Leak in your System.

Last UPDATE of post 93 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Preliminary Starting Checks

Charged Battery, checked for all vacuum systems connected to Plenum, and Checked all electrical connections connected to DIS module under Plenum. Made sure no electrical connections are near exhaust manifolds and all heat shields were in place.

Fired it up in one minute....idled smooth at 800 rpm.




Last UPDATE of post 94 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Engine Running First Time Checks

SW Headers ZR1CORVOR and SW Exhaust ZR1CHAMSW Video Sound Clips

Purged Coolant system of air by blowing coolant into Water Pump Area. Run engine only for a a minute or two to confirm that the IH housing manifolds are getting warm. Oil pressure was confirmed at over 70 psi (cold) and temperature opening at 180 deg confirmed on dash gauges as engine heated up.




Keep in mind...this is the SW OFFROAD Headers and Exhaust which would be least restrictive.
No Air Induction and NO EGR.

To explain....this is the 91' with cams, no secondaries and with full porting. The 90' is essentially stock with secondaries in place which sound video I will make mid July for ya. I am sure that will sound just a tad different but with identical SW Headers and Exhaust. Both the 90' and 91' have Marc Haibeck Chips

All the Stuff is located in my public profile...just click on my ID or any link in Signature.

And for the record......I had a CHP (California Highway Patrol on Motorcycle) follow me last year (2012) right on my tail for about 1/2 mile trying to determine if he should stop me or not. I seen him coming and was cruizing at a very mild 45 mph on a back country road. He finally just thought (forget it Just guessing what he was thinking) and went around me leaving me ALL ALONE to enjoy my SW Headers and SW Exhaust. I am sure he ran my South Dakota License plates and seen I have NO tickets of any kind.

Kind of like this .....you cannot outrun CHP


Last UPDATE of post 95 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Summary of 91' Reconditioning/Modifications

1. New Starter.
2. New 60/80 amp No Start Relay installed.
3. New Ron Davis radiator.
4. New 180 deg thermostat.
5. New Water pump.
6. New Red Samco hoses.
7. New Stainless powder coated cross over pipe.
8. Billet Aluminum Belt Tensioner Pulley Added.

9. New Serpentine Belt (Gates K060798).
10. New Jeffvette braided stainless steel oil cooler lines.
11. New 200 amp alternator.
12. New Randy Woods Aluminum power steering pump pulley.
13. New Randy Woods Aluminum water pump pulley.
14. New Front cover oil seal.
15. New Primary timing chain.
16. New Primary timing chain guide.
17. New coils.
18. New LT5 plug wires.
19. New plugs NGK Iridium BKR5EIX.
20. New Randy Woods LT5X Head Studs.
21. New LH chain tension.
22. New RH chain tension (new style.)
23. New Jeffvette Billet aluminum Camshaft Retainers.
24. New Mellings JB 2236 Lifters.
25. New Elite Oil catch can.
26. New Revolution Marines Pre Oiler.
27. New RC SL4-205 injectors on fuel rails with new "O" rings.
28. New SW headers ZR1CORVOR.
29. New SW exhaust ZR1CHAMSW.

Copper spacer added (two each 1 x 6 inch copper pipe
with coupler and end caps) to keep SW exhaust 1/4 inch
away from riding against Differential Housing. The end caps
and coupler actually keep the spacer in place without any ties.



I set the two rear hangers so they pull the exaust up tight against
the copper spacer. Also set the rear "L" hanger so there is freedom
of the exhaust system to move to the rear at least 1/2 inch when hot.

30. New Crankshaft rear oil seal housing gasket.
31. New Crankshaft rear oil seal.
32. New Center Force pressure plate.
33. New Center Force unsprung clutch plate.
34. New Throwout bearing.
35. New 95' ZF S6-40 Transmission.
36. New C4 Beam Plates.
37. New Differential oil drain plug (drilled and tapped).
38. New Differential oil drain plug.
39. New Brake pads in C5 Z06 calipers.
40. New Nitto NT 555 Extreme Performance FRONT.
41. New Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials REAR.
42. New Billet Aluminum oil cap.
43. New Cam Cover PCV FIlters from Marc Haibeck.
44. SS Air Intake Added (George Braml).
45. New Chrome Dip Stick Tube (LT5-1935).
46. New LED tail/brake lights (48 LED per light).
47. New Billet aluminum tail light louvers.
48. New LED CHMSL lights (6 LED per bulb).
49. Fluids Zerex Original 1825 on label antifreeze.
50. Fluids Mobile 1 75W-90 Differential oil (limited slip.
51. Fluids Mobil 1 M1-207 Oil filter.
52. Fluids Amsoil 10W-40 AMO Engine oil.
53. Fluids Castrol TWS 10W-60 Transmission oil .
54. Eliminated Secondary actuators.
55. Eliminated Secondary vacuum system.
56. Eliminated Plenum coolant.
57. Eliminated Throttle body coolant.
58. Eliminated Air Induction system.
59. Eliminated CATS.
60. Upgraded Powder coated air horn.
61. Upgraded Powder coated throttle body.
62. Upgraded Engraved throttle body (Carter.).
63. Upgraded Cam timing 114In 108Ex .
64. Upgraded Powder coated plenum.
65. Upgraded Powder coated injector housings.
66. Upgraded Powder coated coolant manifolds.
67. Upgraded Engraved coolant manifolds (Carter).
68. Upgraded Ported injector housings/plenum (Locobob).
69. Upgraded Ported heads/injector housing (Locobob).
70. Upgraded Ported Air Horn (Locobob).
71. Upgraded Regrind Intake Camshaft Intake .236 .425 (Pete).
72. Upgraded Regrind Exhaust Camshaft Exhaust .220 .425 (Pete.)
73. Upgraded Valves reconditioned.
74. Upgraded C5 Z06 calipers and Wilwood two piece rotors.
75. Upgraded C5 Z06 calipers repainted.
76. Upgraded Bose radio/CD player.
77. Upgraded Door amplifyers.
78. Relocated Oil Pressure Sensor.
79. Like New Red hard top from my 90 L98.

80. Modified Marc Haibeck chip.
a. 87 octane calibration.
b. Ignition spark advance reduced 10% from 91 octane calibration.
c. 25 deg at WOT.
d. Enabled manual transmission.
e. Both fans to go on at 205 and both off at 200 degs.
f. Fuel added to support +100 HP.
g. Anti-backfire mode enabled.
h. CAGS (1 to 4 shift) disabled.
i. Secondary Port Throttle Control removed.
j. Power key mode default is ON.

81. Modified Marc Haibeck chip.
a. 91 octane calibration.
b. Ignition spark advance increased 10% at all engine speeds.
c. 25 deg + 3 deg = 28 deg at WOT.
d. Enabled manual transmission.
e. Both fans to go on at 205 and both off at 200 degs.
f. Fuel added to support +125 HP.
g. Anti-backfire mode enabled.
h. Knock retard reduced by 50%.
i. CAGS (1 to 4 shift) disabled.
j. Secondary Port Throttle Control removed.
k. Power key mode default is ON.

1991 ZR-1 (LT5)

This is a 1991 ZR-1 (LT5) with SW Headers, SW exhaust and ZF S6-40 Transmission. The modifications include eliminated secondary vacuum system, eliminated plenum coolant, eliminated Throttle body coolant, eliminated air induction system, and eliminated CATS. Haibeck Chips and some other stuff are also included.






Last UPDATE of post 96 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Checking for abnormal noise and leaks LT5 engine

Sometimes the valve train may become out of adjust or failures with the first symtoms an abnormal ticking or clattering sound. These type noises are abnormal aside from the initial startup chain tensioner slackness slap from time to time. One can start by conducting an engine compression check.

1. General Top End Checks.
1. Do a compression check (looking for 230 psi more or less but definitely even on all 8 cylinders).
2. Remove some coolant below level of IH housing.
3. Remove Plenum.
4. Check ALL vacuum systems, purge system, cruize and HVAC vacuum including secondary throttle system (not in your case).
5. Check resistance of ALL injectors (12.1 ohms).
6. Remove and inspect coils, starter (and electrical connections) and clean valley including valley drain tube.
7. When you are there....look at the ground wires each side on block just above Bell Housing....remove ground bolt, clean and replace.
8. Remove TB coolant and plug coolant flow to Plenum (so next time you remove plenum you do not have to mess with coolant).
9. Replace gasket on Crankcase ventilation cover.
10. Check operation of secondaries (not in your case if you have eliminated secondaries).
11. Remove Cam Covers and check cams, two Cam Cover PCV filters and two upper cam cover chain guides.
12. Check Camshaft Timing by visual looking in front Camshaft Retainer Camshaft pinning hole (crankshaft at 51 deg BTDC).
13. Remove and inspect Belt Tensioner.
14. Check all Water pump bolts and maybe replace water pump gasket.
15. Replace Charcoal Canister.

16. Powder Coat Plenum, TB, Air Horn.
17. Carter Bling IH Coolant Manifolds, TB plate.
18. Remove Air Induction and stock Exhaust system and add SW Headers and SW Exhaust.
19. Add Marc Haibeck Chip for Exhaust (not in your case as you already have Marc Chip).
20. Replace all Plenum and Cam Cover Torx bolts with Allen Head SS bolts from Jerry's Gaskets.
21. Have already replaced all fluids (engine, transmission, differential, coolant) including adding differential drain plug

Have on hand in addition to some gaskets Loctite 242 Blue (use on bolts that may be removed from time to time), Loctite 262 Red (use on bolts that yoiu do not plan to remove), and Loctite 518 (Cam Covers).

2. Compression Check.
The compression check should be conducted with Cam Covers in place as suggested when a question came up if a compression check could be made with Cam Covers Off with the Camshaft Retainers holding the Camshaft in position.

I think (I have never had reason to do it) those camshaft retainers WILL hold the camshaft in place (however the cams will be loose in the bearing areas since the retainers have more clearance than the cam covers. Having said that, I would place the cam covers on snugged up for the simple reason you will not get oil all over the engine when you turn it over for the compression test. I have Billet Aluminum camshaft retainers by Jeffvette which are considerably more substantial.



3. Inspection of Timing Chains and Guides.
I would turn the engine over by hand to inspect the timing chains LT5 Timing Chain Calculations
Also inspect the timing chain guides (as much as possible with a light in that area) including the guide installed in the cam covers. Good time to replace the camshaft cover filter in each cam cover (Marc Haibeck) http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20W...r%20filter.htm

4. Inspection of Lifters.
The lifters should be tight against the base circle which can be checked by pushing on individual lifters (valve closed) to see if any lifters feel different than other lifters under that cam cover.

5. Bottom End Inspection.
Then remove the oil pan (cam covers back on) and have someone turn the eingine over slowly to see if anything appears out of order. Look for debris in the oil pan from top end or bottom end.

6. Summary of Abnormal Noise Sources.
You could have broken valve springs, broken valves, valves stuck partially open for some reason, or bad lifters all of which could cause some ticking you are hearing.

But one thing at a time. I always do the above checks once in a while even if I do not hear ticking just as a precaution

7. Loctite 518 (Permabond A136 from Jerrys Gaskets now recommended) for Reinstallation of Cam Covers.
Whenever you mess around with cam covers have some Loctite 518 handy. One tube is enough for two cam covers. Use Loctite 518 very thin coat on mating surface of cam covers. Do not coat 518 Loctite all the way to the edge of the journals (stay away 1/4 inch). Coat the grooves for the two camshaft rubber plugs on each end of each Cam Cover and same on each end of each head Cam Cover Installation Tricks



Jerry's gaskets for gaskets......Ventilation cover, IH, Plenum, IH coolant manifolds, water pump gaskets.
Marc Haibeck for Cam Cover PCV filter, Upper Cam Cover Chain Guides, Chip, and correct 180 deg thermostat.
Ebay for Loctite.

Last UPDATE of post 97 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Number 8 Spark Plug Removal and Test Drive with Jeff Gordon

1. Blackhawk 5/8 Spark Plug Swivel Socket 3/8" Drive

If you have ever had an issue finding just the right spark plug socket for that number 8 cylinder that is too close to the temperature controller on the Heater and A/C Housing....here is the answere and these 5/8 inch swivel sockets come with a nice tight rubber insert

If you use a 3" x 3/8" extension, lube the rubber insert in the Spark Plug Socket to make sure the Spark Plug Socket lets go of the Spark Plug before the extension lets go of the Spark Plug Socket when installing plugs

Blackhawk 5/8" Spark Plug Swivel Socket 3/8" Drive



2. Test Drive with Jeff Gordon


Last UPDATE of post 98 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Adapting 91 IH to 90 Heads.
Three Dorman 550-013 plugs (two plugs drilled 7/32) were used to restrict IH PVC ports of the 91 IH (90 Heads do not have the required restriction).




Last UPDATE of post 99 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

ZR-1 and LT5 Tools

NEW 95' ZF S6-40 Transmission (Blue Label)..Harbor Freight 800 lb Capacity Transmisison Jack


1. Transmission Jack
The Transmission Jack works perfectly with the ZR1 on KwikLift 18 inches off the ground (Perfect height). The 800 lb Capacity Transmission Jack has roll and tilt adjustments for a perfect match when locating the transmission on the Bell Housing (Clutch depressed last 2 inches of installation). The only trick is you have to lift transmission on Transmission Jack while under the Z (takes two). The transmission (on Transmission Jack) cannot be rolled under KwiKLift from side or front because of shifter (unless you initially sit transmission on Transmission Jack rotated 90 degrees).

A transmission jack is not to expensive and Harbor Freight sells one for $129.

2. KwikLift

a. KwikLift (wheels 18 inches off ground).
b. KwikLift Creeper (Perfect with KwikLift).
c. Park Z on KwikLift for ease of inspection under engine.
d. Key in ignition, release park brake, in neutral.....roll out of garage without starting engine.



For those of you who feel like a KLUTZ (Like I did) when trying to get the Z up on an inclined ramp such as KwikLift for repairs when the Z is in non operable condition.....here is a solution.

As you prolly know, the Z can be towed easily using a chain or synthetic tow rope from either the back end (attached underneath to near center of leaf spring) or front end (attached underneath to center of frame cross member). The Z cannot, however, be pushed by another vehicle (The Z can be hand pushed easily but not up inclines) from either end because of the fiberglass on both ends. See Item #2 Lifting and Towing the ZR-1

I welded a padeye at the center of two 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 45 inch long steel box sections welded side by side (1-1/2 x 3 x 45 inch steel beam). I welded two hangers (one on each end of the steel beam). I can just hang the 1-1/2 x 3 x 45 inch steel beam on the end of Kwiklift to pull from the center padeye between each ramp with a wire rope come-a-long attached to the rear or front of any vehicle.

I use a long chain the first two pulls with KwikLift yellow chocks set during resetting of the chain length (the wire rope come-a-long cannot reach from one end of the KwikLift to the other end without starting out with a chain connection).

I call this steel beam KLUTZ (KwikLift Utility Towbar for Zs)
I actually tested the beam (pulled Z up ramp) with just one 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 45 inch box section then doubled up in final design.




3. Hydraulic Aluminum Floor Jack (3 ton)
a. Pittsburgh Racing
b. Very low initial height and weighs 55 lbs.
c. High lift rate.
d. Minimum Saddle Height 3-3/4 inch.
e. Maximum Saddle Height 19-1/4 inch.

3 ton Pittsburgh Racing Aluminum Floor Jack



See Lifting the ZR-1 for a specific discussion regarding lifting the ZR-1 with a floor jack, jackstands, and ramps.

Last UPDATE of post 100 Dec, 2017